Anyone get the ABS ESP inoperative?
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Anyone get the ABS ESP inoperative?
Glad I was close to home it came on so I drove for a bit got home ok. The next day drove up the street then I got the brake light warning and then it felt like the ABS/brakes were on as the truck would only go 5mph. Any one have this problem?
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GL550
I'll bet it is the wheel speed sensor. Our 2010 GL550 did the same thing...it would apply the brakes to the driver's side front wheel...on its own! The dealership replaced the sensor and no more problems for a couple of years.
Part number 164-440-56-41
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-GL3...RW~V7~&vxp=mtr
Part number 164-440-56-41
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-GL3...RW~V7~&vxp=mtr
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What plutoe said.
First things first. Put the main display on odometer, turn key on position 2 without starting the engine and press the reset button on dash three times. Voltage will be displayed. If voltage is below 12.5 or thereabouts - your battery is bad and this will show as abs error (cannot initialize the power hungry abs module). With engine running you should see > 14v. If less- battery or charging is bad. See above.
First things first. Put the main display on odometer, turn key on position 2 without starting the engine and press the reset button on dash three times. Voltage will be displayed. If voltage is below 12.5 or thereabouts - your battery is bad and this will show as abs error (cannot initialize the power hungry abs module). With engine running you should see > 14v. If less- battery or charging is bad. See above.
Thread Starter
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checked codes had many old ones cleared each one, one by one. All ABS lights are off but front brakes still going on when trying to move re read codes none but the rear two speed sensors are not giving a signal so may change one to see what happens just find it odd both went bad at same time, deff recommend the icarsoft 980.
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Unlikely that both quit.
Two scenarios:
1. One was bad for a long time, but you didn't notice. Then recently The other one went bad and you noticed the odd behavior. Check brake pads- if one side is more worn out that the other- that was the "old" side. If both sides are worn out equally see below
2. Your abs block went bad. Rarely, but can happen. Check your fuses.
Icarsoft may be great for reading, but if you want to get to the bottom of it yourself you need star/ das and the diagnostics it offers
But... Check your battery. I know you said it is new, but the old battery failed for a reason. The x164 batteries have a long life (I have seen plenty 2007s with original battery) so a charging system issue might be the culprit.
Two scenarios:
1. One was bad for a long time, but you didn't notice. Then recently The other one went bad and you noticed the odd behavior. Check brake pads- if one side is more worn out that the other- that was the "old" side. If both sides are worn out equally see below
2. Your abs block went bad. Rarely, but can happen. Check your fuses.
Icarsoft may be great for reading, but if you want to get to the bottom of it yourself you need star/ das and the diagnostics it offers
But... Check your battery. I know you said it is new, but the old battery failed for a reason. The x164 batteries have a long life (I have seen plenty 2007s with original battery) so a charging system issue might be the culprit.
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Picked up one rear speed sensor to try today since the dealer only had one, put it in and now I get a reading on the i980 so great, now I have to drive it around to see how it acts. Got to run to another dealer saterday to get the other rear speed sensor and pop it in. I think you are right in one was bad then the other went out and put in limp mode.I will post when the other is put in
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Thread Starter
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So got the other rear speed sensor put in today, I cleared the codes and everything is good to go. I did notice the trans when cold shifts better as it used to hold the gear longer. I put about 120miles on it today with no problems
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GL550
Isn't it amazing that those things fail? We've had problems with our front ones. There's a non-OEM brand I just installed and have had no problems for several months. The brakes weren't being applied, just the ESP error light (and no more cruise control).
Glad you got it fixed and hopefully it wasn't very expensive.
Glad you got it fixed and hopefully it wasn't very expensive.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 302
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From: Saint Louis
2010 GL550 | 2020 S560
Reviving an old post.
2010 GL550 132k miles.
I'm getting an intermittent "ESP INOPERATIVE" light. NO ABS light and NO limp mode.
If I drive to a parking lot, put the GL in park, turn the steering wheel all the way to left, then all the way to the right and back to center, drive away and light disappears for a few days.
Has anyone experienced my exact behavior?
I've replaced one wheel speed sensor. When it went out, ESP and ABS light came on and the GL went into LIMP mode. This is different though.
2010 GL550 132k miles.
I'm getting an intermittent "ESP INOPERATIVE" light. NO ABS light and NO limp mode.
If I drive to a parking lot, put the GL in park, turn the steering wheel all the way to left, then all the way to the right and back to center, drive away and light disappears for a few days.
Has anyone experienced my exact behavior?
I've replaced one wheel speed sensor. When it went out, ESP and ABS light came on and the GL went into LIMP mode. This is different though.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 648
Likes: 144
From: Yeast Coast, Canada
GL550 X164
Reviving an old post.
2010 GL550 132k miles.
I'm getting an intermittent "ESP INOPERATIVE" light. NO ABS light and NO limp mode.
If I drive to a parking lot, put the GL in park, turn the steering wheel all the way to left, then all the way to the right and back to center, drive away and light disappears for a few days.
Has anyone experienced my exact behavior?
I've replaced one wheel speed sensor. When it went out, ESP and ABS light came on and the GL went into LIMP mode. This is different though.
2010 GL550 132k miles.
I'm getting an intermittent "ESP INOPERATIVE" light. NO ABS light and NO limp mode.
If I drive to a parking lot, put the GL in park, turn the steering wheel all the way to left, then all the way to the right and back to center, drive away and light disappears for a few days.
Has anyone experienced my exact behavior?
I've replaced one wheel speed sensor. When it went out, ESP and ABS light came on and the GL went into LIMP mode. This is different though.
I had to replace a rear sensor recently. It was seized solid so I had to chisel it out. In the process, some sensor particles contaminated the tone ring which is integrated inside the rear wheel bearing. I was getting the dash errors consistently, but only over 30 km/h. The fault would not display at speeds under that.
To detail my experience, every time I would start the car, it would display message/illuminate the lights on the dash. Once I started driving slow, the lights/message would go away until I exceeded 30 km/h, and would stay illuminated until I turned the car off.
I had a code with the message to check tone ring, clean it and replace if necessary. I tried blowing compressed air through the sensor hole, but that did not help, so I ultimately had the wheel bearing replaced by an indy shop. (Side note: I supplied them with an NTN bearing which is OE supplier, in case you need to replace yours. NTN makes bearings sold under several brands, btw.)
If you have not scanned for codes, I would do that to see what you have in store.
I only replaced one side. I also replaced one front last year (approx 5000 km ago or roughly 3000 miles) and have not had to replace the other yet. I now have one new and one old sensor on both axles. In my experience, when the front sensor went (low battery condition just before that) the car would apply brakes hard at low speed, shortly after moving from full stop. When the rear went, the car did not do that at all. I would only see the lights and message on the dash.
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 302
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From: Saint Louis
2010 GL550 | 2020 S560
Did you replace a rear sensor?
I had to replace a rear sensor recently. It was seized solid so I had to chisel it out. In the process, some sensor particles contaminated the tone ring which is integrated inside the rear wheel bearing. I was getting the dash errors consistently, but only over 30 km/h. The fault would not display at speeds under that.
To detail my experience, every time I would start the car, it would display message/illuminate the lights on the dash. Once I started driving slow, the lights/message would go away until I exceeded 30 km/h, and would stay illuminated until I turned the car off.
I had a code with the message to check tone ring, clean it and replace if necessary. I tried blowing compressed air through the sensor hole, but that did not help, so I ultimately had the wheel bearing replaced by an indy shop. (Side note: I supplied them with an NTN bearing which is OE supplier, in case you need to replace yours. NTN makes bearings sold under several brands, btw.)
If you have not scanned for codes, I would do that to see what you have in store.
I only replaced one side. I also replaced one front last year (approx 5000 km ago or roughly 3000 miles) and have not had to replace the other yet. I now have one new and one old sensor on both axles. In my experience, when the front sensor went (low battery condition just before that) the car would apply brakes hard at low speed, shortly after moving from full stop. When the rear went, the car did not do that at all. I would only see the lights and message on the dash.
I had to replace a rear sensor recently. It was seized solid so I had to chisel it out. In the process, some sensor particles contaminated the tone ring which is integrated inside the rear wheel bearing. I was getting the dash errors consistently, but only over 30 km/h. The fault would not display at speeds under that.
To detail my experience, every time I would start the car, it would display message/illuminate the lights on the dash. Once I started driving slow, the lights/message would go away until I exceeded 30 km/h, and would stay illuminated until I turned the car off.
I had a code with the message to check tone ring, clean it and replace if necessary. I tried blowing compressed air through the sensor hole, but that did not help, so I ultimately had the wheel bearing replaced by an indy shop. (Side note: I supplied them with an NTN bearing which is OE supplier, in case you need to replace yours. NTN makes bearings sold under several brands, btw.)
If you have not scanned for codes, I would do that to see what you have in store.
I only replaced one side. I also replaced one front last year (approx 5000 km ago or roughly 3000 miles) and have not had to replace the other yet. I now have one new and one old sensor on both axles. In my experience, when the front sensor went (low battery condition just before that) the car would apply brakes hard at low speed, shortly after moving from full stop. When the rear went, the car did not do that at all. I would only see the lights and message on the dash.
As always, thanks for the wealth of knowledge.
My last speed sensor was indeed a front sensor. I always use genuine mercedes parts only (it takes away the guess work on how long I think parts will last).
I hope that a wheel bearing is not the case, but of so, I have an indy that can take the GL too..
Like said, once the "ESP INOPERATIVE" light comes on (its always while driving and usually under strong acceleration), I'll pull to the nearest parking lot, shut the GL off, start it back up, turn the steering wheel all the left, all the way right, and back to center. As soon as I drive off, the light goes away.
My indy has a Snap On scanner, it was a pricey one and he's been able to scan mostly everything, im hoping he can scan and tell which speed sensor it is..
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 648
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From: Yeast Coast, Canada
GL550 X164
@expl0rer,
As always, thanks for the wealth of knowledge.
My last speed sensor was indeed a front sensor. I always use genuine mercedes parts only (it takes away the guess work on how long I think parts will last).
I hope that a wheel bearing is not the case, but of so, I have an indy that can take the GL too..
Like said, once the "ESP INOPERATIVE" light comes on (its always while driving and usually under strong acceleration), I'll pull to the nearest parking lot, shut the GL off, start it back up, turn the steering wheel all the left, all the way right, and back to center. As soon as I drive off, the light goes away.
My indy has a Snap On scanner, it was a pricey one and he's been able to scan mostly everything, im hoping he can scan and tell which speed sensor it is..
As always, thanks for the wealth of knowledge.
My last speed sensor was indeed a front sensor. I always use genuine mercedes parts only (it takes away the guess work on how long I think parts will last).
I hope that a wheel bearing is not the case, but of so, I have an indy that can take the GL too..
Like said, once the "ESP INOPERATIVE" light comes on (its always while driving and usually under strong acceleration), I'll pull to the nearest parking lot, shut the GL off, start it back up, turn the steering wheel all the left, all the way right, and back to center. As soon as I drive off, the light goes away.
My indy has a Snap On scanner, it was a pricey one and he's been able to scan mostly everything, im hoping he can scan and tell which speed sensor it is..
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 302
Likes: 43
From: Saint Louis
2010 GL550 | 2020 S560
My friend was able to hook up his Snap-On scanner and I received the following fault codes:
5173 | Steering wheel angle
7266 | ESP not available
Right rear wheel speed sensor faulty
9303 | M13 (Heating water circulation pump) Short circuit to ground
9607 | Booster blower: There is a short circuit to ground or the line for the read back voltage has an open circuit
Looks like I have some work to do.
5173 | Steering wheel angle
7266 | ESP not available
Right rear wheel speed sensor faulty
9303 | M13 (Heating water circulation pump) Short circuit to ground
9607 | Booster blower: There is a short circuit to ground or the line for the read back voltage has an open circuit
Looks like I have some work to do.
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From: Charlotte NC area
2019 WS222 S450 4-Matic / 2007 W211 E350 4Matic (Sold) / 2008 X164 GL320 CDI
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From: Glasgow, Scotland
2015 E350 Cab
I replaced my front and rear suspension airbags and got the ABS / ESP error and when I ran it through my icarsoft diagnositic reader it flagged the front left speed sensor which when my friend who helped me and I thought about it this was the first corner we did and stretched the cable removing the strut so I ordered a ABS senor from my local motor factors for £22 and installed it (which was a nightmare as I didn't know about the little C retaining clip and only when I'd removed the plastic wheel arch did I see it properly) then cleared the code and all good.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 12,516
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From: Charlotte NC area
2019 WS222 S450 4-Matic / 2007 W211 E350 4Matic (Sold) / 2008 X164 GL320 CDI
Did you only have one issue when you started?
I didn't undo the suspension.
Well, I did about a year and 1/2 ago.
And even if i somehow broke the wire when putting in the compressor, no one has connected speed sensor issues with a failure to run.
I didn't undo the suspension.
Well, I did about a year and 1/2 ago.
And even if i somehow broke the wire when putting in the compressor, no one has connected speed sensor issues with a failure to run.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 12,516
Likes: 628
From: Charlotte NC area
2019 WS222 S450 4-Matic / 2007 W211 E350 4Matic (Sold) / 2008 X164 GL320 CDI
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
Yup, 2 for 2 on the 2 cars I’ve had.
Search other threads for other users like kind experiences.
It’s like replacing only one weak valve in a plumbing system - by introducing a new strong point in the system very shortly the water pressure will create a leak on the remaining weak valves, and you’ll have a new leak. This occurs on the paired wheel speed sensors connected to one axle via shared or interconnected harness. Battery voltage quickly burns out the older weaker sensor because it is now the weak point in the system.
this is also how airmatic works, or should I say; fails.
Search other threads for other users like kind experiences.
It’s like replacing only one weak valve in a plumbing system - by introducing a new strong point in the system very shortly the water pressure will create a leak on the remaining weak valves, and you’ll have a new leak. This occurs on the paired wheel speed sensors connected to one axle via shared or interconnected harness. Battery voltage quickly burns out the older weaker sensor because it is now the weak point in the system.
this is also how airmatic works, or should I say; fails.
