I have a 2013 GL350 with about 67K miles and an extended limited warranty until 100K. Should I sell the vehicle right before the warranty expires, or keep it as long as possible? Like others, I am worried about very expensive repairs that DYI can't do. I have lots of tools that I can do a lot of DYI stuff, but I'm still new.

What would break after 100K?

 

If you like the truck, then why not keep it until the warranty actually expires? But I definitely would not want to own it out of warranty, especially a MB diesel.

 

 

Owning any modern MB out of warranty is only for people with deep pockets or less than rich people with a high threshold for pain.

 

Hilarious.

The way I see it you pay the same new or used. A $1.2k per month car note (( lease $900 and $4k down?)) new and no out of pocket repairs vs $600-$700 (car note) and repairs costing $2k a year or less after 65-70k miles (maybe by the time you get to 100k you would have fixed the normal $5k worth of issues).

Not to mention folks paying $4k+ for extended warranties that don't cover "seals" (oil cooler).

One may come out thousands less per year, used, even with the repairs and no warranty.

 

While my GL350 is a X164 I have the same drivetrain essentially. I have 126k miles, with the last 25k being the best, most trouble free miles yet. I think between 55k and 85k I replaced everthing that is typical on a diesel GL. Since they are not selling any in the states I am going to keep this one running and may scoop up another. Just too functional for a family hauler-tow vehicle that gets great mileage and love that low end grunt..

 

@TKrustyKustom - What did you fix between 55K and 85K?

 

Any 200K miles?

 

Same for my W164 Bluetec except at 110k miles or so I and the family got stranded by the fuel pump (100 miles from home).

I'm already pricing a new DEF tank, which is very easy to replace but $1,500 vs $1,100 I paid for the W164. Also I think there's a timing chain issue that shows its head on the X166 that didn't occur on my W164 ($2k repair?).

 

Between 55k and 85k I did the following,

Timing Chain, NOx Sensors (both), AdBlue Heater (whole tank), Vacume pump base gasket, Oil cooler Seals, EKAS motor, differential pressure sensor for DPF, Oil Filter housing base gasket, Power Steering pump return hose.

Replaced all 4 airmatic shocks/springs at 105k, Front right had small leak, bags appeared to be slightly dry cracking. Did front Brakes/rotors (OEM) at 66k, rear brakes and rotors at 89k.

I keep an eye on things and stay on top of maintenance....

 

I'm not sure what you think is so funny about my comment. $2k or less per year for repairs after 65-70k miles would be the a unicorn Benz. It seems that the 350 is really only suited for highway hauling. Driving in the winter and lots of short trips cause lots of oil sludge problems, clogged ports from ridiculous amounts of soot, and other issues. It is well documented that all of the restraints that the EPA put on them regarding emissions has turned them into self destructing engines unless they are used almost always on the highway. That's why MB no longer sells any diesels in the US.

Regarding warranties, there are plenty available that will cover the oil seals. You have to look outside of the MB ELW to find coverage for it.

 

So far my only experience is with "my" 164 bluetec beyond 65k miles to 120k miles. During that period, I researched up and down on the two forums for information so I believe I'm pretty well versed because "I" had to pay the $2k a year (with no warranty but for only 3 items specific to bluetecs) which included purchasing and installing a new DEF tank.

So far I haven't reached those miles in "my" x166 to know if it will cost me more. And not much is out about x166's (in comparison to the 164's) in regard to 164 bluetec issues but I "assume" the issues will be the same and I'm planning for it.

No one has yet given the definition of "lots" and "short trips" that causes sludge problems and clogged ports. These answers would be helpful from knowledgeable/experienced people. The best I can do is give individuals an estimated cost associated with Bluetec specific issues.....$2k a year.

Documentation for the EPA restraints is an issue for all DEF vehicles in the US, not just MB. And I'm not concerned about them not being sold anymore, my purchase was only a bridge to better mileage waiting for us in the near future. I'd love to get a hybrid GL instead or a gasser that gets at least 22mpgs. 1 percent of the GL's sold are bluetec so I'm sure MB and others can make it up with their full line ups of electric vehicles within a year or so. Meanwhile the 1 percent of us (bluetec owners) on these board will be just fine if we can get good definitive information.

And finally I was laughing at your rational as to people, prices and reasons "you" believe we buy MB's. My point is/was, new vehicle monthly financing or lease payments are more or the same as a 3yr old+ used GL's monthly financing payments if you include the $2k a year in bluetec repairs.

If the cost is more than $2k a year for bluetec specific "repairs" what is the number you researched or experienced? $3k, $4k, $5k + a year, fill us in?

 

This article explains the problems with the MB diesels very well. It is well worth your time to read the entire thing as this guy is as knowledgeable as they come about MB diesels and is highly respected in the Benz community.

http://www.stephensservice.com/bluet...ssuesproblems/

The game is completely rigged by the EPA against modern US diesel passenger cars. It is mostly a losing proposition to own one of them compared to any gas version. Perhaps your better mileage makes up for some of the extra costs of ownership of the oil burners, but likely not much these days as diesel (at least in my area) is more expensive than premium gas. And resale values have plummeted with all diesel cars in the US due to the VW debacle.

FWIW, I've been able to get over 20 mpg on the highway in my tuned GL550....a beast that is putting out 550 hp and 650 tq.

 

I read that a couple years ago and I know the problems (about $2k worth a year), this is my 2nd Bluetec.

I need 22mpg City not HWY.

Diesel is the same price as midgrade in my area.

I just sold my 164 this year, no plummeting on my end. I even went to Carmax 2xs, once in 2017 and 2018 (exactly a year apart) and my 164 was appraised at the same value. My friend traded upward with no loss on his Q7 TDI because of Diesel gate (of course Audi had a hand in that).

 

 

I would sell it shortly before the warranty expires. My experience with the passenger car application of the OM642 has not been very positive. I find the need to replace a timing chain offensive, especially when that is not something that is made clear to buyers by MBUSA.

 

Best advice I've found on the Bluetechs, Stephen knows his stuff...

 

The infamous, but brutally accurate, article from Stephens Service Center.

 

Like a clock,
NoX sensor was gone around 65K miles.
Adblue pump failed around 70K miles

I do have the limited extended warranty that I paid around $4K. I hope my airmatic failes before 100K. When do they fail usually?

 

The suspension typically fails between 70 and 80k miles.

 

 

2014 GL350, bought used and put 50k miles on it in 2 years before trading to a GL550.

in the 2 years of owning, had to fix the timing chain stretch issue and replace a leaking vacuum pump.

 

 

What's the sign of timing chain going bad?Reply