Oil in engine harness
Have you opened the ECU connectors and checked for oil on the pins? This connector is subject to oil penetration and also needs to be cleaned if oil has reached it.








@arsupisemnet
ignition coils were swapped between cylinder 1 and 3, misfire remained in cylinder 1 so I believe the ignition coils are functioning properly
Things I have done so far:
removed ECU and cleaned all the oil from the metal pins. sprayed tons of CRC on it, turned it upside down however no oil came out of it, I suspect it is waterproof so no oil can actually penetrate it, still waiting for confirmation from someone on this...
cleaned the big harness connector attached to the ECU
replaced all four camshaft position sensors and cleaned their connectors, 3 of them were leaking oil
replaced two of the four camshaft solenoids/magnets that were leaking around the edges, their connectors were dry, no oil found inside
checked the fuel injector connector on cylinder 1 for oil, none found
checked the ignition coil connector for cylinder 1 for oil contamination, none found
I haven't check the O2 sensor connectors however contamination there should not cause misfire in only one cylinder, I believe.
Dealer has checked the voltage at the ignition coil of cylinder 1, here is the mechanic's note (translated form Japanese):
"Inspection with HMS99 Waveform inspection Primary waveform \ Normal. Secondary waveform Peak voltage is low (20KV)."
He didn't do compression or leakdown test on cylinder 1, neither a visual inspection of the cylinder walls with a borescope.
He also didn't check the fuel injector of cylinder 1 so it still could be an injector malfunction that coincides with oil in harness.
However the low voltage let's me suspect that it is an electrical fault somewhere and chasing it down could be really difficult and time consuming.
Estimated cost for wiring harness replacement $1,700 including parts and labor + tax.
Can the dealer check the whether the ECU is functioning properly without actually replacing it?
Just throwing parts at it is not what I prefer to, however that seems to be the dealer's preferred way.
I don't know any indy, the one I found refused to work on it because I am not Japanese.
Literally, he told my wife "foreigners are troublesome" and gave a dumb excuse why he can't check the car.




The cost to replace the harness is a bargain. Another poster recently reported he was quoted almost $8k.
XENTRY scan will bring up codes in the ECU. If there are no current or stored codes, the ECU is functioning properly as far as the car is concerned. Intermittent loss of electrical contact anywhere in the system due to oil in a connector may or may not store a code.
The problem has been solved by replacing the fuel injector in cylinder 1, compression check was OK.
So the oil in the harness and a LOT of oil in the ECU connector had no effect on the running of the engine.
I cleaned the ECU connector, I replaced all four camshaft position sensors, as I mentioned earlier three of them were leaking oil into the harness, and I also replaced two of the camshaft solenoids as they were leaking at the gasket but not at the connector. I guess I could have just replaced the O-ring as their connectors were dry. I may save them for later...
I will check the connector of the Bank 1 upstream O2 sensor, as it has thrown codes a few times, for oil but other than that it seems to work fine.
So I am not sure if oil in the harness actually causes a lot of problems.
In my case it has caused, so far, none.
On a side note, if oil in the harness would cause so many problems then logic dictates MB Japan would have harness in stock.
They've got none in Japan, not for the M276 engine at least.
I asked the parts department to give a price for the ECU and the harness.
They said there is no harness in Japan, I would need to wait about two weeks to get one from Germany.
So perhaps a total replacement of the harness and the ECU is, a very expensive, overkill.
As I mentioned earlier, I tried to get the oil "out" of the ECU, should some have leaked into it, but none came out, the ECU is a sealed unit.
And since oil is an insulator I don't see how oil in the connector could cause an ECU issue.
I understand there are additives in engine oil however the pins on the ECU and the connector contacts are a really snug fit so I don't see how oil could get in between them and perhaps increase resistance or cause no contact issues.
Can anyone explain that, thanks.
Last edited by dacia; Mar 6, 2022 at 08:48 PM.
Up until last week, the independent Mercedes shop I took my car to had multiple back and forth interactions with my 3rd warranty company. The shop was awesome in dealing with the warranty company. The owners even prepared a presentation for the warranty company.
The warranty company is paying a significant amount of money to get everything done right. So I decided to go ahead and get the engine out of the car to replace the engine harness and a few other things.
Below is the list of things I’m getting replaced:
-Engine harness
-ECU
-All injectors
-All coil packs
-All the sensors the engine harness touches (camshaft, crankshaft, O2 sensors, MAF, etc.)(excluding the knock sensors)
(oil only got to the camshaft, crankshaft and upstream O2 sensors, but I want to replace all sensors since the engine is out.)
-Camshaft solenoids
-Almost every plastic and rubber hose
-Maybe a few more things
The shop got the engine out this week and they are working on getting everything replaced. Once everything is all set and done, I’ll follow up with another update.
Thank you everyone in this thread for the information and support. Here is a picture with my car with the engine out.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Up until last week, the independent Mercedes shop I took my car to had multiple back and forth interactions with my 3rd warranty company. The shop was awesome in dealing with the warranty company. The owners even prepared a presentation for the warranty company.
The warranty company is paying a significant amount of money to get everything done right. So I decided to go ahead and get the engine out of the car to replace the engine harness and a few other things.
Below is the list of things I’m getting replaced:
-Engine harness
-ECU
-All injectors
-All coil packs
-All the sensors the engine harness touches (camshaft, crankshaft, O2 sensors, MAF, etc.)(excluding the knock sensors)
(oil only got to the camshaft, crankshaft and upstream O2 sensors, but I want to replace all sensors since the engine is out.)
-Camshaft solenoids
-Almost every plastic and rubber hose
-Maybe a few more things
The shop got the engine out this week and they are working on getting everything replaced. Once everything is all set and done, I’ll follow up with another update.
Thank you everyone in this thread for the information and support. Here is a picture with my car with the engine out.
Wonder what their total invoice will look like with this kind of work performed....
The magnets I think 1 had a tiny bit. Probably replace those on the next oil change for safety.
I have an oil leak around the left rear of the engine, I'm taking it to a shop for transmission service and spark plugs soon, I'll have them investigate the leak. Hopefully it's not a huge job.
Up until last week, the independent Mercedes shop I took my car to had multiple back and forth interactions with my 3rd warranty company. The shop was awesome in dealing with the warranty company. The owners even prepared a presentation for the warranty company.
The warranty company is paying a significant amount of money to get everything done right. So I decided to go ahead and get the engine out of the car to replace the engine harness and a few other things.
Below is the list of things I’m getting replaced:
-Engine harness
-ECU
-All injectors
-All coil packs
-All the sensors the engine harness touches (camshaft, crankshaft, O2 sensors, MAF, etc.)(excluding the knock sensors)
(oil only got to the camshaft, crankshaft and upstream O2 sensors, but I want to replace all sensors since the engine is out.)
-Camshaft solenoids
-Almost every plastic and rubber hose
-Maybe a few more things
The shop got the engine out this week and they are working on getting everything replaced. Once everything is all set and done, I’ll follow up with another update.
Thank you everyone in this thread for the information and support. Here is a picture with my car with the engine out.




The oil insulates pin-vs-pin. It creates a film barrier, for example, between cam position sensor pins and the corresponding harness pins. Or, for example, between pins on the harness and the corresponding pins at the ECU.
The film doesn't need to be much. Intermittent loss of contact is enough to cause a problem. A test that I haven't seen people do here is to measure continuity and resistance between the ECU end of the harness and the sensor (cam position sensor, cam magnet). While interesting, it wouldn't rule out intermittent loss of electrical contact, and it would not indicate whether or not contact was being made when everything is connected. Star/Xentry/DAS could help with this.
Dielectric grease might help, or might make things worse. It has been demonstrated that MB harnesses are not wick-proof. The question is will grease wick as readily as oil. Likely not, but hard to know for sure.Replacement of the offending sensors and harness, and ECU, is the highest confidence solution, and most expensive. The hardest DIY step is coding the ECU. A good relationship with an Indy shop could help with ECU coding.
ECU back ordered - No ETA




ECU back ordered - No ETA
Last edited by syspklc53; May 22, 2022 at 11:35 PM.
















My SUV did not have any engine codes or miss fires, I decided to verify and notice all my 8 sensor were all soaked in oil heavily and I was concern that it may have going into the ECU. I decided to take on this project for preventative maintenance. I rather spend a few hundred bucks on doing this than a few thousand dollars and dealing with a bigger issue.
Videos I followed:
Tools: You're going to be frustrated without these tools
CRC Electronic cleaner (use to clean ECU wires that connect to sensor and magnet solenoids)
T30 torx bit (Removal\add cam position sensor)
8mm gear wrench (Removal\add magnet solenoid)
Zip tie cutters (use to cut zip tie that holds the ECU wire going on driver side magnet solenoid)
mini zip ties (use to zip tie back the ECU wires back near driver side magnet solenoid)
74mm 14 flute oil cap wrench (removal of oil filter)
Torque wrench (add back the oil filter cap to 25nm spec = 18.4lbs)
Parts: I highly recommend FCP Euro, they offer lifetime warranty on these parts. If they leak again, you can swap them out.
4x Cam position sensor: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...-2769051000kt1
4x Magnet Solenoid: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...t-2761560790kt
I wanted to document the process but I was in a time crunch to get the family SUV back on the road. The job is very easy with the right tools and looking at the videos. Overal, I was happy that I was able to tackle this job myself and not have to spend a few thousand bucks in taking it to the dealer or indy.
I hope this post helps everyone to tackle this job. If I can do it, so can you!!!
(I can finally add this patch to my shirt)
Last edited by NaviTimer1; Feb 17, 2023 at 09:00 AM.



