Transmission jerking on 4th gear
I have an issue with the car I just bought. When decelerating from higher speed, on its way the transmission does the "hick-up" on 4th gear in particular.
My mechanic tells it could be solenoid issue, oil, valve body or worse - something mechanical.
I have an appointment on Jan 15th with the dealer, but not sure it's going to work out based on what other dealers were telling me over the phone.
So reprogramming (basically it's TCU) may help, but before they may need to clean the transmission, put new fluid, and then reset the adaptation. If that won't help, my mechanic suggested to take a look inside (particular solenoid may be the culprit).
This issue can be reproduced when there are higher RPMs (by higher I mean higher then 2K which very low I think). But here's a thing. On a Sport mode it doesn't do it when dropping gears, but still rough shifting to 2 or 3 sometimes in this mode. I'm driving in Auto. So I'm puzzled, but based on the symptoms it looks like the Adaptation reset should help.
The previous owner told this is the ECO mode where the highest possible gear is used to save on a fuel consumption. I turned it off and nothing changed. I found
Please advise what to start with:
- reprogramming
- washing the transmission and put new fluid
- replacing solenoid(s)
- check the clutch, other parts that can be the cause (don't know what are they yet)
- else...




It is located in this popular thread.
How are engine solenoid and tranny related?
When the engine can no perform normally the tranny can hardly ever shift at the right time which causes it to bang from poor timings.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Dec 22, 2023 at 11:05 PM.




Go see your local dealer to get fresh adaptations redone and an ATF service for perfect viscosity.
Then consider your gearbox TCU is acting comfused courtesy of the engine ECU....
Offered solution - replace the left turbo, which is almost $4K, including everything. No TCU codes or anything related to the tranny. They explain that there's not enough air to provide smooth shifting and this is the culprit. I can buy this when I'm accelerating and it shifts down from 5th to 4th to have more power, but when I'm decelerating and it goes from 7th to 4th I'm wondering how it happens at all.
I doubt this is going to help, but who knows... The only concern now is the price. I saw some used turbos from junk yards are around $500 (up to 70K miles on them), plus labor. So thinking of doing that in a few weeks maybe. Any suggestions or thoughts?
- possible to just drive in sport mode?….have to ask

- did you actually see the exchanged tranny fluid? Coloring AND particle count AND smell can transfer a lot of information. May inform a sell decision.
- tranny shift (down, up) are regulated by fluid flow thru valve body, fluid pressure, fluid temp, tranny tcm, engine ecm. With that said, you’ll need to understand the difference b/w the 2 driving modes - sport & comfort - the fluid routing/electronic system controls (which specific solenoids, sensors, connectors) and tease out what is different, and then bring that to the attention of a solid tranny person who specializes in these 7 speed transmissions. My experience is dealers are not a good solution to sorting out at-first-seemingly-complicated-issues such as what you’re presenting. They will throw parts & your wallet at it based upon their prescribed repair heuristic regimen; read a lot of money with most likely not a lot of result.
- sell the car unless you got a fabulous deal.
Let us know what you learn pls.
I remember switching once to the sport mode and shifting up and down (auto) was OK, higher RPMs of course and higher speed obviously. For example, I'm getting 7th speed at 40m/h in comfort mode vs 3rd speed at 40m/h in Sport mode. On that day I was testing the car in Sport mode it felt a bit rough shifting too, but on other gears; don't recall which ones but when shifting up. So now, I'm assuming the turbo was not doing its best job probably.
I cannot find the right guy who is a PRO with MB transmissions. Everyone says they have never dealt with that.
Hypothetically, if I change the fluid, would that help? I think the previous owner never done that.
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Offered solution - replace the left turbo, which is almost $4K, including everything. No TCU codes or anything related to the tranny. They explain that there's not enough air to provide smooth shifting and this is the culprit. I can buy this when I'm accelerating and it shifts down from 5th to 4th to have more power, but when I'm decelerating and it goes from 7th to 4th I'm wondering how it happens at all.
I doubt this is going to help, but who knows... The only concern now is the price. I saw some used turbos from junk yards are around $500 (up to 70K miles on them), plus labor. So thinking of doing that in a few weeks maybe. Any suggestions or thoughts?
MB boxes are generally garbage. Shifting clunks in and out of 3rd and 4th gears are hallmark MB box characteristics. Nothing can be done, that’s how MB designed it. Keep the trans oil changed and hope for the best, that’s all that can be done.
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I have an n of 1 rebuilding these 722.9 7GTron trannys, though years on other variants. Having said that, they are sophisticated and robust having to move 2.75 tons of car at a good pace. I’ve used FCP parts through the years on our 4 MB’s and they have a nice overview guide that may guide your decision making and progress stepping through this issue:
https://blog.fcpeuro.com/the-definit...c-transmission
conversely, this tranny rebuilt & supplied by MB should run around $4900 w/ exchange (San Jose CA for reference) should you decide to go that route part # 166-270-80-01-8. Removing tranny a good bit of work though doable with a lot of photos and some videos support during removal phase in combination with a tranny jack and 2 balancing straps.
After a long I want to share an update on my issue. Got another mechanic opinion and we decided to change all 3 solenoids on the vale body that has 4th gear. There are total 8 of them, but we replaced only 3 + one additional with black cap (it was just a spare one so decided to put that in instead of sending it back). Since it was fluid flush and valve body disassembly I understand that it may need to be adapted again. I can feel slight delay for the 2nd gear which never had before. BUT the main issue with 4th gear is GONE. So, my assumption is that faulty solenoids are first and easiest things to check before changing the whole valve body or even the tranny. If you have an ability to perform software update for the tranny - do it as well.
Good luck!






