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Hi, any update on the video? a specialist quoted me $2000. I'm trying to work on it myself.
OK, I just uploaded the video. I'll apologize in advance because the video is 36 minutes long (ugh). Every time I started to edit it, it just kind of overwhelmed me since it was about 100 small clips. Some of the clips were put in out of order by the video editing software, also. Many of the clips are only a few seconds long, and if it is out of order in the video, the clip that should have gone first will be just a few seconds later. So, probably best to watch it through completely once before you start the project. Other than a scanner and an E10 and E12 external Torx sockets, there really aren't any "special" tools involved. You do the entire job from above.
OK, I just uploaded the video. I'll apologize in advance because the video is 36 minutes long (ugh). Every time I started to edit it, it just kind of overwhelmed me since it was about 100 small clips. Some of the clips were put in out of order by the video editing software, also. Many of the clips are only a few seconds long, and if it is out of order in the video, the clip that should have gone first will be just a few seconds later. So, probably best to watch it through completely once before you start the project. Other than a scanner and an E10 and E12 external Torx sockets, there really aren't any "special" tools involved. You do the entire job from above.
Thanks for taking the time to create such a helpful and informative video! Will work on mine and share updates 👌
The 2 biggest wastes of time and energy by me on that job were:
1) trying to get the ECU holder pulled out of the way. I think it’s impossible, and in the end I was able to work around it. Just pull the ECU box and any of the wiring clips that are easy, then use a bungee cord to hold it to the side as you work. You will need to reposition it a couple of times, but it is workable. I spent at least an hour trying to figure out how to remove it completely, so just accept that it’s going to be your buddy all through the job.
2) the two water pipes that go into the front of the intercooler. Put a catch basin of some sort under there (a square one-gallon ice cream pail worked very well), and then pop the lower pipe off first, then the upper. There’s just a wire retaining clip on each to release, then pull. No need to mess with the bracket that holds them to the intercooler - it all comes out together. Removing the intercooler should take 10 minutes maximum, but I probably spent close to an hour on it because I was afraid to break something (yet I still managed to do so).
Good luck! Despite looking very intimidating at first, it’s not that bad of a job to do.
The 2 biggest wastes of time and energy by me on that job were:
1) trying to get the ECU holder pulled out of the way. I think it’s impossible, and in the end I was able to work around it. Just pull the ECU box and any of the wiring clips that are easy, then use a bungee cord to hold it to the side as you work. You will need to reposition it a couple of times, but it is workable. I spent at least an hour trying to figure out how to remove it completely, so just accept that it’s going to be your buddy all through the job.
2) the two water pipes that go into the front of the intercooler. Put a catch basin of some sort under there (a square one-gallon ice cream pail worked very well), and then pop the lower pipe off first, then the upper. There’s just a wire retaining clip on each to release, then pull. No need to mess with the bracket that holds them to the intercooler - it all comes out together. Removing the intercooler should take 10 minutes maximum, but I probably spent close to an hour on it because I was afraid to break something (yet I still managed to do so).
Good luck! Despite looking very intimidating at first, it’s not that bad of a job to do.
Thanks!
Also, the parts store said that the part 274-018-73-01 ($63) is incorrect for my VIN, and want me to buy the entire line 274-090-56-00-80 ($225). I have a C300 4matic and it shares the same M274 engine with the GLC300
I think they want me to spend more money because both cars use the same intake line
Also, the parts store said that the part 274-018-73-01 ($63) is incorrect for my VIN, and want me to buy the entire line 274-090-56-00-80 ($225). I have a C300 4matic and it shares the same M274 engine with the GLC300
I think they want me to spend more money because both cars use the same intake line
Yeah, that $63 part is actually for a Metris van (I think). So, if you give them your VIN or model number, they are going to say it's not the correct part. On the GLC 300, the flexible rubber hose on the car was definitely different from the one on the new part. But, the easy fix was just to re-use the old hose by cutting the clamp on the new part that holds the flexible rubber hose onto the new valve and plug the valve into the old hose. It's even a little easier that way due to the tight space in the engine bay.
On the GLA 250, the old flexible rubber hose was the exact same shape & length as the new one that came on the new part, so I just used the new hose. There's actually more room to work in the engine bay of the GLA 250 because you must remove the intake manifold.
OK guys, pay close attention to this post by sn202020.
I just bought both a 2015 GLA 250 and a 2017 GLC 300, and both had the P052E code and the P06DA code. Additionally, the GLA 250 had the P0597 thermostat code. I ended up purchasing two of the vent valves, part number 274 018 73 01, (cost $63 each) and splicing them into the system rather than using the Mercedes recommended part (270 090 07 00) that costs at least $638 and requires a lot more labor.
The good news is that splicing in a new vent valve worked on both the GLC 300 and the GLA 250 to resolve the P052E code. The only codes I have left on both the GLC 300 and the GLA 250 are that P06DA code, and it does not make the check engine light come on. The P06DA code can simply be ignored, as recommended by Mercedes.
I made a P052E vent valve splicing video for both the GLC 300 and the GLA 250, and as soon as I've edited the video footage, I'll post them on YouTube along with a link to the videos here.
For all of owners that are dealing with the P052E code, just know that you do NOT have to pay $2,000 to fix it. On the GLC 300, I spent about 5 hours fixing the problem because I was being very cautious and shooting videos, but I could do the job again in less than 2 hours. On the GLA 250, I spent about 4 hours combined replacing the vent valve and the thermostat. But, again, I was being cautious and taking video. Neither required any great mechanical skills nor a lift (it was all done from above). I think I could do the entire vent valve/thermostat job again in about 3 hours on GLA 250. Parts cost for the vent valve was $73 including shipping.
Thanks to sn202020 for the tip on the Metris forum posts and for saving me almost $4,000 between the two vehicles!
Google searching for the last 2 days. 274 018 73 01 is backordered everywhere. Same response, available only direct from Germany eta 3 weeks. Where did you order?
Google searching for the last 2 days. 274 018 73 01 is backordered everywhere. Same response, available only direct from Germany ETA 3-7 weeks. Do you know where to order in USA for rush delivery?
I bought mine through Mercedes Benz of Fort Washington, via their online discounted parts website: www.yourmercedesparts.com
However, I just went back there and searched, and it is now showing that the part is no longer available for sale.
Here is my receipt from back in July 2023 (2 months ago) from them. I bought 2 of them - one for the GLC300 and one for the GLA250. They worked perfectly in both vehicles.
Hello, I replaced the PCV in my 2018 GLC-300 after I got a fault for P152500: "The Check valve of the evaporative emission control system at full load is stuck open". It somewhat makes sense since the OEM revised Mercedes part I received does not have a check valve. I did some searching and it appears this may be normal? Can i splice in a new vent valve like someone mentioned earlier whats the best practice for this? Any insights would be greatly appreciated I'll attach a snip of what my pcv valve used to look like and what it looks like now. I took these pics from Google since I don't believe I took any prior to installing it. I tested my old check valve and the diaphragm is fine I'm thinking I could heat up the tube and swap out the none check valve for my old check valve. Thanks in advance. what old part looks like what new revised part looks like FCPeuro Receipt
sorry for bumping my own reply but does anyone have any insight on this? I read through the thread and it appears that not having the check valve may be correct. If not I can replace the part with the tube that has the check valve and that would solve my problem. if anyone needs any additional details to help me troubleshoot please let me know. I replaced this part for my moms car and I hate to have her driving around with a check engine light
I think the key part is the valve shown in the middle of your photo, next to the green dot. I don't think that pancake valve (red arrow in the first picture) does anything as it was simply deleted in the updated part (yellow circle). Not sure if I'm answering your question, but the bottom line is that if you didn't replace the valve next to the green dot, then you probably will have a check engine light (although for code P052E not P1525).
I think the key part is the valve shown in the middle of your photo, next to the green dot. I don't think that pancake valve (red arrow in the first picture) does anything as it was simply deleted in the updated part (yellow circle). Not sure if I'm answering your question, but the bottom line is that if you didn't replace the valve next to the green dot, then you probably will have a check engine light (although for code P052E not P1525).
I replaced that part as well I don't have a fault for P052E only P1525. From my research, I thought it meant the check valve is stuck open which would make sense since it doesn't have one. But maybe it's referring to the bleed line actuator(thing next to the green dot) like you are saying. I double-checked all the hoses and the connector everything is connected properly etc.
Just got this notice in the mail, for our 2019.
Intake line warranty extended to 15 years, 150,000 miles.
Got the same thing for my 2018. They state the partial-load ventilation valve, so is that specifically what we are referring to in this thread? I believe so, but wanted to confirm.
I also wish they specified the MIL, but they don’t.
Note that the flip side of the letter posted said you can claim reimbursement if you’ve had the repair done prior to receipt of the letter.
Got the same thing for my 2018. They state the partial-load ventilation valve, so is that specifically what we are referring to in this thread? I believe so, but wanted to confirm.
I also wish they specified the MIL, but they don’t.
Note that the flip side of the letter posted said you can claim reimbursement if you’ve had the repair done prior to receipt of the letter.
yes, it's the entire intake line, which includes the valve.
Last edited by car222; Oct 30, 2023 at 12:40 PM.
Reason: other
Google searching for the last 2 days. 274 018 73 01 is backordered everywhere. Same response, available only direct from Germany ETA 3-7 weeks. Do you know where to order in USA for rush delivery?
Try to find at Aliexpress
A2740182201 $50
It says for glc but looks a little different part number and shape, so you might need to cut and modify.
Best video ever. Thank you so much. Replaced it today using your awesome video. The only concern the part # stamped on the unit. Original A000 997 69 12 4 new unit A000 997 96 11 2 and the lower is a different angle. Made it fit by cutting half of the new hose off and using new stainless steel hose clamps.
But what was real strange there is a round open hole. Appears to be the suspension housing. Can only be seen with inter cooler, bracket and ECU removed. Looks like there may have been something connected. What is this and should it be covered?
But what was real strange there is a round open hole. Appears to be the suspension housing. Can only be seen with inter cooler, bracket and ECU removed. Looks like there may have been something connected. What is this and should it be covered?
That hole is just there in my glc when i see my old pictures.
So no worries.
Intake line warranty extended to 15 years, 150,000 miles.
I had this repair done on my 2017 in February at my dealer. A couple of calls to them, and a check for the $1941 it cost me is now on the way to my house. Very happy for the warranty extension!
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