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Chevrolet Chevette, Ford Pinto, Pontiac Aztek, Trabant, Yugo GV (and all the worst cars ever built)
2021 GLS 450 owner here.
Feedback I get from other GLS owners that have the OEM dashcam is that the quality is quite poor. Not even close to aftermarket dashcams that have been installed as per this thread.
They said not to bother getting it.
I personally have not seen the quality but I am very happy with my Rove dash cam which has 4K video.
Feedback I get from other GLS owners that have the OEM dashcam is that the quality is quite poor. Not even close to aftermarket dashcams that have been installed as per this thread.
They said not to bother getting it.
I personally have not seen the quality but I am very happy with my Rove dash cam which has 4K video.
.
I think most people who opt for the built in dashcam is most likely want it for the convenient factor. Similar to the Tesla cam where everything is built into the car so no external wiring is needed.
The down side is that most (as of today) built in one does not have a high resolution in today's standard.
Feedback I get from other GLS owners that have the OEM dashcam is that the quality is quite poor. Not even close to aftermarket dashcams that have been installed as per this thread.
They said not to bother getting it.
I personally have not seen the quality but I am very happy with my Rove dash cam which has 4K video.
I just did my dashcam on the GLE and ended up not running any wires to the back of the car. I just used the Rain/Headlight sensor behind the rear view mirror as it is always on. I used a small hardwire kit (https://www.ebay.com/itm/28269199807...8AAOSw70xZ3x~d) that perfectly fitted inside the housing where the Augmented Reality/dashcam should have been (I do not have that option, blame the chip shortage!). I just tapped on the back side of the harness using RC board male jumper pins (https://www.ebay.com/itm/40343536954...oAAOSwe8ph8QXr) so that if I want to remove it I'll just pull em out and no harm done. There is a lot of space behind that cover and I am sure if you have the Augmented Reality cam you will still have space to hide the hardcam wiring kit and cables. Just make sure it is taped properly so that it won't get loose and rattle behind the cover. I used the existing wiring clips to secure some of the wires to tidy it up a bit as well. I have the voltage cut-off at 12v just to make sure it won't drain the car battery. The dashcam should be recording 24/7 right now unless voltage drops to 12v then it shuts-off. So I'll see how long it will run before I get a message from the Mercedes Me. The dashcam I am using is using a capacitor type so I won't have to worry about swelling batteries.
Last edited by shotgun_banjo; Feb 17, 2022 at 11:44 PM.
Am considering a dash cam for my GLE. Sadly did not have one when they broke the window and stole our luggage (thieves now have RF/Bluetooth detectors that can identify cars with electronics like laptops that are suspended, or those new 'tiles' to let YOU find things). anyway, looking at the Thinkware U1000, and perhaps the Thinkware X700 for my wifes car (12 year old RX350). Have seen some people on the forums discussing the U1000, but have not seen anyone mentioning the X700. Anyone have experience with these two cameras? thanks in advance.
I just did my dashcam on the GLE and ended up not running any wires to the back of the car. I just used the Rain/Headlight sensor behind the rear view mirror as it is always on. I used a small hardwire kit (https://www.ebay.com/itm/28269199807...8AAOSw70xZ3x~d) that perfectly fitted inside the housing where the Augmented Reality/dashcam should have been (I do not have that option, blame the chip shortage!). I just tapped on the back side of the harness using RC board male jumper pins (https://www.ebay.com/itm/40343536954...oAAOSwe8ph8QXr) so that if I want to remove it I'll just pull em out and no harm done. There is a lot of space behind that cover and I am sure if you have the Augmented Reality cam you will still have space to hide the hardcam wiring kit and cables. Just make sure it is taped properly so that it won't get loose and rattle behind the cover. I used the existing wiring clips to secure some of the wires to tidy it up a bit as well. I have the voltage cut-off at 12v just to make sure it won't drain the car battery. The dashcam should be recording 24/7 right now unless voltage drops to 12v then it shuts-off. So I'll see how long it will run before I get a message from the Mercedes Me. The dashcam I am using is using a capacitor type so I won't have to worry about swelling batteries.
Thank you for posting your installation procedure. Any chance you could find similar ebay products or pics of the products you posted above again? Those product items are no longer listed; usually, the listing will still show later but it looks like they have been removed.
Thank you for posting your installation procedure. Any chance you could find similar ebay products or pics of the products you posted above again? Those product items are no longer listed; usually, the listing will still show later but it looks like they have been removed.
In my opinion, the dashcam must be at least 2-channels with the front and rear cameras. Besides, it's very easy to run the cable to the rear camera inside the headliner. It only takes a few minutes.
In my opinion, the dashcam must be at least 2-channels with the front and rear cameras. Besides, it's very easy to run the cable to the rear camera inside the headliner. It only takes a few minutes.
Just be careful where you route the cable. I see some people routing it from the front windshield headliner, across the a-pillar gap, to the weatherstrip on top of door frame, and to the back. Personally I wouldn't do it that way because the side curtain airbag runs from the front window to the a-pillar down, and routing the cable in front of it might not be a good idea.
Some online comment suggest that the force of airbag should "cut" the cable when it deploy. Personally I don't want to risk myself or my family, and I don't want to find out how the cable affects the airbag when it deploys if something does happened. Even if it is true (that force of airbag deployment will cut the cable), I still wouldn't do it.
Just be careful where you route the cable. I see some people routing it from the front windshield headliner, across the a-pillar gap, to the weatherstrip on top of door frame, and to the back. Personally I wouldn't do it that way because the side curtain airbag runs from the front window to the a-pillar down, and routing the cable in front of it might not be a good idea.
Some online comment suggest that the force of airbag should "cut" the cable when it deploy. Personally I don't want to risk myself or my family, and I don't want to find out how the cable affects the airbag when it deploys if something does happened. Even if it is true (that force of airbag deployment will cut the cable), I still wouldn't do it.
Good point. Now I'm debating whether I should get a single 2-ch system or two 1-ch systems as I did in my old car to avoid running any cable. Btw, your install looks super clean. Nice work, especially with the added backup battery.
Good point. Now I'm debating whether I should get a single 2-ch system or two 1-ch systems as I did in my old car to avoid running any cable. Btw, your install looks super clean. Nice work, especially with the added backup battery.
Thanks
Two camera is definitely worth it if you are willing to run the wire. But I mentioned this before somewhere else, any dashcam is better than no dashcam.
Just be careful where you route the cable. I see some people routing it from the front windshield headliner, across the a-pillar gap, to the weatherstrip on top of door frame, and to the back. Personally I wouldn't do it that way because the side curtain airbag runs from the front window to the a-pillar down, and routing the cable in front of it might not be a good idea.
Some online comment suggest that the force of airbag should "cut" the cable when it deploy. Personally I don't want to risk myself or my family, and I don't want to find out how the cable affects the airbag when it deploys if something does happened. Even if it is true (that force of airbag deployment will cut the cable), I still wouldn't do it.
There is no A-Pillar involved for the rear camera cable. It goes from the dashcam on top of the windshield all the way to the rear of the car inside the headliner. It's not difficult to pop the headliner or just open the weather stripping on the side and use a plastic tie to pull the wire through somewhere in the middle of the headliner. However, if you use the cigarette lighter adaptor for power, you'd need to run the power cable inside the A-pillar. Make sure to run it on the passenger's side because many models have a knee airbag on the driver's side kick panel. Also, when you hide the wire inside the A-pillar, make sure to hide it from the windshield side (not the door side). But it's easy to find a constant power wire inside the overhead lights management system, next to a sunroof. This way, you don't need to run any wires to the bottom of the car, and also you can take advantage of the Parking Mode security of your dashcam system, which works when you switch the car off and wouldn't work via a cigarette lighter connection. But the rule of thumb is if you can see any other wires running in your car, it means it's safe to run your cable together with the original wiring.
There is no A-Pillar involved for the rear camera cable. It goes from the dashcam on top of the windshield all the way to the rear of the car inside the headliner. It's not difficult to pop the headliner or just open the weather stripping on the side and use a plastic tie to pull the wire through somewhere in the middle of the headliner. However, if you use the cigarette lighter adaptor for power, you'd need to run the power cable inside the A-pillar. Make sure to run it on the passenger's side because many models have a knee airbag on the driver's side kick panel. Also, when you hide the wire inside the A-pillar, make sure to hide it from the windshield side (not the door side). But it's easy to find a constant power wire inside the overhead lights management system, next to a sunroof. This way, you don't need to run any wires to the bottom of the car, and also you can take advantage of the Parking Mode security of your dashcam system, which works when you switch the car off and wouldn't work via a cigarette lighter connection. But the rule of thumb is if you can see any other wires running in your car, it means it's safe to run your cable together with the original wiring.
We might be talking about different thing
This is what I am referring to.
I see some YouTube video suggesting people to wire it that way, and it will be in the way of the side curtain airbag.
As for the headliner, I never remove one so I can't say how easy/hard it is
The way I wired mine is by removing the a-pillar, zip-tie the cable following the factory wire harness, following the wire below the door trim piece to the back.
It does mean I need a longer cable, but at least I don't have to worry about the airbag.
As for under the headliner, would sunroof be an issue? And if you are just pulling without removing the headliner, wouldn't it run the rise of moving factory wire (or whatever they have hidden up there?)
We might be talking about different thing
It does mean I need a longer cable, but at least I don't have to worry about the airbag.
)
Do you recall how long your cable was to run this same route from windshield to rear camera? I guess you had to run two wires right? One for rear camera and then a 2nd one for power to your fusebox and backup battery in the cargo area.
Do you recall how long your cable was to run this same route from windshield to rear camera? I guess you had to run two wires right? One for rear camera and then a 2nd one for power to your fusebox and backup battery in the cargo area.
Yes I do have 2 cables.
With the way I route the cable, I have to get the 18ft one. the 15ft one just a bit too short. (I think 15ft would be just enough if you can figure out how to remove the rear seat side cushion. I wasn't able to figure that out so have to route it around.)
As for the rear camera cable, I use the 20ft one and I have a bit extra left.
We might be talking about different thing
This is what I am referring to.
I see some YouTube video suggesting people to wire it that way, and it will be in the way of the side curtain airbag.
As for the headliner, I never remove one so I can't say how easy/hard it is
The way I wired mine is by removing the a-pillar, zip-tie the cable following the factory wire harness, following the wire below the door trim piece to the back.
It does mean I need a longer cable, but at least I don't have to worry about the airbag.
As for under the headliner, would sunroof be an issue? And if you are just pulling without removing the headliner, wouldn't it run the rise of moving factory wire (or whatever they have hidden up there?)
Just wanted to add some more photos to @zengshengliu 's post to continue to help others.
Before pulling the trim off, you have to pop off the plastic ABS sign with a pry tool. Also, all of the trim is easier to remove once you pull out the door seal. Next step is to pop off the top clip of the trim adjacent to the glove box / dashboard. There are no screws in any of this trim.
Before putting all of the trim back into place, re-seat the door seal first.
Top clip of A Pillar trim. This gives you an idea of which way to pull to remove it. Pull towards driver's side.
Close up of the top clip of the trim adjacent to the glove box and dashboard.
This trim adjacent to the glove box and dash has be popped off first (just upper part) before removing upper A pillar trim.
A Pillar trim. Bottom doesn't have a clip, just a spacer block of some sort.
Just wanted to add some more photos to @zengshengliu 's post to continue to help others.
Before pulling the trim off, you have to pop off the plastic ABS sign with a pry tool. Also, all of the trim is easier to remove once you pull out the door seal. Next step is to pop off the top clip of the trim adjacent to the glove box / dashboard. There are no screws in any of this trim.
Before putting all of the trim back into place, re-seat the door seal first.
Close up of the top clip of the trim adjacent to the glove box and dashboard.
This trim adjacent to the glove box and dash has be popped off first (just upper part) before removing upper A pillar trim.
Thanks for the additional images. I would also pop off that "triangular" shaped trim piece first. It will make removing the one to the right much easier. (unless I misread what you have )
Also, I think when putting back together, its actually easier to put the trim piece first before the door seal, since some (or all?) pieces actually slide behind the seal.
Thanks for the additional images. I would also pop off that "triangular" shaped trim piece first. It will make removing the one to the right much easier. (unless I misread what you have )
Also, I think when putting back together, its actually easier to put the trim piece first before the door seal, since some (or all?) pieces actually slide behind the seal.
I didn't need to remove that triangle piece at all. I just dropped the wire straight down after I zip tied it to the loom of wires sitting behind the airbag. Regarding the trim doing first or after, I guess you could do either way. I found it was easier to just slowly flip the lip of the seal over the trim after the trim was set in place.
I just realized I forgot to snap pics of the bottom trim of the door. I tucked the wire underneath the carpet after removing that trim. I plan to have my backup dashcam battery underneath the front passenger seat. I travel a lot so I thought the location would be easier for me to turn off the battery when I'm away for weeks at a time. The backup battery will be powering two 1ch cameras.
I didn't need to remove that triangle piece at all. I just dropped the wire straight down after I zip tied it to the loom of wires sitting behind the airbag. I guess you could do either way. I found it was easier to just slowly flip the lip of the seal over the trim after they were set in place.
That will work too. I removed mine just to have more room (plus its easy to remove that piece so why not just in case )
Originally Posted by wildta
I just realized I forgot to snap pics of the bottom trim of the door. I tucked the wire underneath the carpet after removing that trim. I plan to have my backup dashcam battery underneath the front passenger seat. I travel a lot so I thought the location would be easier for me to turn off the battery when I'm away for weeks at a time. The backup battery will be powering two 1ch cameras.
For me, if I remember correctly, I zip tie to the factory harness also for the trim piece below the door. I didn't remove the trim under b-pillar, but there should be enough room to tuck it underneath.
I also end up having 2 batteries linked together for my 2 channel setup, and I am usually able to charge it from empty to full in maybe about an hour of driving? So I just leave it connected with the ACC power and power on/off with the car (to charge the battery).
And the reason I have my battery in the trunk is because it has more room, plus I am using direct wire (shorter cable) to connect to the fuse box, and a longer 12v cable between battery and camera on the front.
That will work too. I removed mine just to have more room (plus its easy to remove that piece so why not just in case )
For me, if I remember correctly, I zip tie to the factory harness also for the trim piece below the door. I didn't remove the trim under b-pillar, but there should be enough room to tuck it underneath.
I also end up having 2 batteries linked together for my 2 channel setup, and I am usually able to charge it from empty to full in maybe about an hour of driving? So I just leave it connected with the ACC power and power on/off with the car (to charge the battery).
And the reason I have my battery in the trunk is because it has more room, plus I am using direct wire (shorter cable) to connect to the fuse box, and a longer 12v cable between battery and camera on the front.
I'm hoping I'll get 12-14hr runtime for two 1ch cameras.
I am using the Blackvue b-124 plus the expansion battery. The one you shown should have a higher capacity with similar (maybe even thinner) size.
I was able to keep my 2CH running in parking mode for around 30 hours, so I think you should be fine with half the time (but probably worth test it)
I just realized I forgot to snap pics of the bottom trim of the door. I tucked the wire underneath the carpet after removing that trim. I plan to have my backup dashcam battery underneath the front passenger seat. I travel a lot so I thought the location would be easier for me to turn off the battery when I'm away for weeks at a time. The backup battery will be powering two 1ch cameras.
Well I've discovered the placement of my Powercell 8 dashcam battery isn't sitting that well underneath the front passenger seat. There's just not enough reliable headroom for it to be out of the way of the seat while adjusting the seat forwards and backwards. Looks like I'm going to have to move the dashcam battery to the spare tire area. I'll probably hook up a 12v inline switch placed in the cargo fusebox area so I can turn it on/off with ease during my long trips.
Well I've discovered the placement of my Powercell 8 dashcam battery isn't sitting that well underneath the front passenger seat. There's just not enough reliable headroom for it to be out of the way of the seat while adjusting the seat forwards and backwards. Looks like I'm going to have to move the dashcam battery to the spare tire area. I'll probably hook up a 12v inline switch placed in the cargo fusebox area so I can turn it on/off with ease during my long trips.
Just wondering, if you are using an "ACC" fuse like the 12v cargo power one, do you still need a switch for it? (I assume you mean a switch between the fuse and the backup battery). The battery is only getting charged when car is on, and the dashcam draws power from the battery regardless of the car status, as long as the backup battery is not empty.
Just wondering, if you are using an "ACC" fuse like the 12v cargo power one, do you still need a switch for it? (I assume you mean a switch between the fuse and the backup battery). The battery is only getting charged when car is on, and the dashcam draws power from the battery regardless of the car status, as long as the backup battery is not empty.
Yes I meant a switch btwn fuse and dashcam battery. I go on trips for weeks at a time and I'd rather not have the dashcam battery drain to completely dead each time I'm away.
Yes I meant a switch btwn fuse and dashcam battery. I go on trips for weeks at a time and I'd rather not have the dashcam battery drain to completely dead each time I'm away.
I see, since you are using two 1-channel camera, it would be easier to have a switch to manage both.
For mine, since it is a 2-channel camera, if I want to turn off the camera before battery reaching 0%, I can just disconnect the power cable from the camera side, since it is just right next to the rearview mirror.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
