shotgun_banjo

can someone tell me how to remove the overhead console on the glk. I want to reinstall my radar detector on the car and on my previous car I hot wired the power to the overhead lights as the lights always have power.

and

does anyone knows if the glk automatically shuts-off the power after X amount of minutes after the key is pulled-out? some cars have this feature to make sure that the battery won't be drained.

Thanks!

GLKKa2H

gdepau can (in gratitude!), note post #13 with pictures as referred to on thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...-question.html

No, it does not, and I think most cars with remote control receivers (for keys etc.) do not either. There is always a small current surge from (and internally in -) the battery, which finally will "drain" it.

shotgun_banjo

You sure about that? So if I leave the interior light on an lock the car the car won't cut off the power after x amount of minutes. if you are right that is a bad thing as the lights on the rear view mirror are hard to see if it is lit during daylight.

My previous cars have that feature that cuts-off amenity power after X amount of minutes after you lock your car and can't imagine a merc not having this feature.

Bummer! if that is the case i cannot hot wire the radar detector on the lights as the detector won't shut-off by itself.

GLKKa2H

Of course does it shut off power, but not everything - like "remote control receivers (for keys etc.)" as I wrote.

GLKKa2H

With regard to how the interior lights are deactivated, note page (number!) 106 and the Important Notes on page 107 of the 2011 GLK Operator's Manual: http://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/DigitalA...l/2011_glk.pdf.

I didn't catch the connection between the "glk automatically shuts-off the power" question and the wiring of the detector, focused on how to open the overhead console as I were. Sorry.

So wiring the the radar detector to interior lights should certainly not drain the battery when the car is locked (or the key is not in the ignition lock).

slk55er

You might consider wiring the detector to the power line to the sunroof instead of the lights. I suspect that power to the lights fades on and off and that might not be a good place to hook up the detector.

GLKKa2H

I think it is for the OP to consider your suggestion, as it is his "project". It will of course work, as I do believe the "overhead lights" route will.

According to the GLK manual is the interior lighting functions not automatically deactivated when the key is the position #2 of the ignition lock. Meaning the overhead console will have a source of 12VDC when engine is running = car may be driving = time for the need of a radar detector, I persume. Whether the source has the available current (power) as needed for the auxillary equipment or not, is another part of the story. Which most likely is the case, given your "route" is chosen.

When the key no longer is in that position the voltage (power) is disconnected in some way, most likely by a control signal? I just don't know, not having seen a wiring diagram or circuit layout of the overhead console.

shotgun_banjo

ok. we will have a nice weather on the weekend and i'll try to pry open that overhead console and do the install. Hopefully I won't send any nasty codes after I install the radar. I'll let everyone know how it will go.

420tee

I'd be REAL careful about adding things, and loads, to a low voltage, computer controled circuit.

bop11

I have a Bell 995 which I stick to the windshield next to the mirror. I move this to a rental vehicle every week so it need to be portable. I have a cigar lighter power cord for use in the rentals and a second power cord with bare ends. I hard wire the second cord into the GLK.
Even though I can get into the roof mounted consol, I don’t want to take power from there because all of that stuff is fed from one of the computers. I took power from the power plug in the glove box which is switched with the ignition.
I left some room at the mirror and then pushed the wire under the headliner along the windshield. Bring the wire down the front of the pillar along the windshield pushing it in so it is hidden. At the bottom work it in along the bottom of the pillar. Once the dash end cover is off, you can make it totally disappear by working it back and forth. This way you don not need to remove the pillar cover or mess with the air bag.
I removed the cover under the glove box (three torex screws) that covers the cabin filter. I then removed the passenger dash side cover by opening the glove box and pulling the cover outward and then towards the back. It comes right off. In the C-class blog they say to remove the glove box. It is much harder to remove the glove box in the GLK than in the C class. For the GLK you need to remove the wood piece to get at the top screws. This requires removing the air ducts in the center, as the wood piece needs to move towards the driver to be unclipped from the dash panel before pulling out. There is no need to do this!
Reaching under the glove box, I was able to disconnect the electrical connector from the power plug. The connector comes off sideways not straight out the back. It took a little pressure and trying to get your arm in the correct place was a pain.
Once the connector was off, I could pull it down so I had some room to work. I cut back the cloth wrap and connected the wires to the power plug cable, pink stripe is plus, brown is ground. I used crimp on connectors that take a push-on connector. Get them at Radio Shack.. My cable, as it came from Bell, has a fuse and extra wire. This was easily pushed into the area above the glove box. Then replace the side panel and the filter cover.
I have my detector high up on the driver side next to the mirror. I pulled the cable tight around the mirror support and tucked it under the headliner with only the plug sticking out. The small wire around the mirror mount is hard to see but could be put under the roof consol. Unit works like a charm and turns off when I leave.
Supposedly, it would be better to have the detector down low on the dash as that is more likely to pick up laser guns. I guess you could lead the wire along the front of the dash rather than up the post.. I may do this, if my unit misses some of the NJ lasers.
There is a picture of a typical power plug showing the electrical connection which needs to be removed from the side not back.