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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Ack! Dropped caliper thumb-wheel into oil filter housing
2014 GLK350 ... I "think" the engine is referred to as a "276".
I know, folks want to know - I was taking a measurement and when I extended the caliper's measuring arm, the thumb-wheel dislodged and dropped down into the center hole of the oil filter housing.
So, here's the caliper and the thumb-wheel circled in yellow
Next up, this photo shows the three "oil passages" inside the oil filter housing
a) I assume yellow is where oil flows into filter
b) The blue is, I guess, is where oil flow away from filter and back to engine
c) Not sure about the red passage - notice the hole is not perfectly round - the hole is crescent-shaped.
The red is where the wheel dropped down into.
The oil filter my engine uses has a "snout" with a o-ring, and that snout drops down and "blocks" the crescent-shaped hole.
Here's a photo of me holding a pencil just above that crescent-shaped hole, where the wheel fell
Here's a parts diagram, and it appears the filter housing (highlighted in bright white) is a molded part of the "timing cover" (#3) ??
I've searched for a photo with the timing cover off (to view its backside), and to see the engine side, which might show more clues about passages.
So here's my question to all the GLK experts here ... if something fell down that center crescent-shaped hole, do we know "where it went to"?
Did it drop to the oil pan? Did it slide into an oil passage? Did it drop to the oil pump?
Last edited by calder-cay; Jan 8, 2022 at 05:24 PM.
2006 Alfa Romeo Brera, 2010 GLK350, 2018 BMW 640i GT, 1997 Subaru SVX, 2012 Moto Guzzi Norge GT8V
A long flexible retrieval magnet might save you. The thumb wheel is small and light enough that it may not have gone far and got stuck in the oil. I have two retrieval magnets, one telescopic and another about a foot long with a flexible shaft. They have saved my butt on numerous occasions.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by Silver Shadow
A long flexible retrieval magnet might save you. The thumb wheel is small and light enough that it may not have gone far and got stuck in the oil. I have two retrieval magnets, one telescopic and another about a foot long with a flexible shaft. They have saved my butt on numerous occasions.
Thanks for the reply!
An ace mechanic spent some time with a flexible magnetic retriever - no luck. Of course, the cylindrical magnet has an aluminum "sleeve" around it, so only its front end could magnetize something.
I guess what I need is a magnetic retriever where the cylindrical magnet is fully exposed (its outer surface and tip).
But what I'm still curious about is, "where does that hole lead to"? If if drops directly to the pan, a retriever may not find it, but if we drop the pan, that thumb-wheel might be laying there.
Or does it lead to the oil pump? Or ....
Last edited by calder-cay; Jun 29, 2021 at 05:25 PM.
I think you would want a extremely strong magnet,and don’t push it down
or
Vacuum it out with a super strong vac and home made small attachment. HD has real strong shop vacs, most any box store has different strength shop vacs. Get the strongest, I have one .
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by Baltistyle
The thumbwheel is likely in the housing for now. An oil filter housing is easy enough to pull off. Take it to a bench and fish it out there.
Hmmm.
But it's my understanding the filter housing is a separate component on the "previous" version of the engine ... see image at bottom. Notice that oil filter housing has the oil cooler bolted onto it.
My engine - there is NO cooler bolted to the oil filter housing.
it's my understanding my engine is the "276" designation, and the oil filter housing is not a separate component, but is in the same casting as the front timing cover ... check the fourth image in my first post ... it's #3 part in the parts fiche image.
Here's a link to the parts fiche
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/128103_20_2010_4518__5_7-MB-2760150300
Oil filter housing for previous version of engine
Last edited by calder-cay; Jun 27, 2021 at 03:53 PM.
My best guess is that center hole is the drain that leads right to the oil pan, so when the filter is loosened that o-ring moves upward and allows the oil to drain out of the filter housing. Look under your GLK, it may have a small steel oil pan; if so it's easy to remove it and check for your thumbwheel. You should replace the pan if it's steel, as they warp when removed. You can also try your flexible magnet through the oil pan drain hole first.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
My best guess is that center hole is the drain that leads right to the oil pan, so when the filter is loosened that o-ring moves upward and allows the oil to drain out of the filter housing. Look under your GLK, it may have a small steel oil pan; if so it's easy to remove it and check for your thumbwheel. You should replace the pan if it's steel, as they warp when removed. You can also try your flexible magnet through the oil pan drain hole first.
Image of my filter at bottom (it's a one piece filter - the snout is not removable). Notice the tip of the snout has an o-ring.
If you measure the length of the snout, it drops down into the center orifice and seemingly "seals off" the lower crescent hole, disallowing oil to push upward or oil to drop down into the crescent hole.
So your reasoning seems sound, that when the filter is pulled out, the excess oil in the housing would drain down into the crescent hole.
Great idea to snake the magnetic retrieval tool in through the oil pan drain hole first !! Hadn't considered that !
But it's my understanding the filter housing is a separate component on the "previous" version of the engine ... see image at bottom. Notice that oil filter housing has the oil cooler bolted onto it.
My engine - there is NO cooler bolted to the oil filter housing.
it's my understanding my engine is the "261" designation, and the oil filter housing is not a separate component, but is in the same casting as the front timing cover ... check the fourth image in my first post ... it's #3 part in the parts fiche image.
Scary thread. Hope for the best for you.
i was once cleaning the leaves from the windshield wiper cowl on another car. In the process of ******* that rabbit hole i flipped the recirculation vent door in the wrong direction and dislodged the actuator arm. The recirculation feature would not work without it. It bothered me for a few hours as i was pissed with myself for not being careful. So i decided to go ***** deep into the rabbit hole and fix what i broke which involved removing the entire dashboard in the cabin. It took me a couple of hours over the course of 2 or 3 days but i got it done.
If i were in your position i would have already taken that whole component off in search of that small bit. You should be able to shake it out. If you can hear it but for some reason you can get it out then replace it with a used one from a scrap yard donor.
Of course you want to try all the other options first. The one advantage you have here is the component this is stuck in is made from aluminum so theoretically extracting it with a magnet is your best bet to save you from having to take the part off BUT i dont know of a flexible magnet thin enough or strong enough to do what needs to be done.
Good Luck my friend
Edit to add/inquiry:
what were you measuring in there anyway? Looking to do a custom mod?
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by ODIOUS
Edit to add/inquiry:
what were you measuring in there anyway? Looking to do a custom mod?
I measured the oil filter snout's length, then was going to measure the depth of the filter housing's center tube, to ensure the snout was the proper length.
Firstly, I feel for your situation, dropped parts can be an Enormous bugaboo(I have clumsy fingers) and hard to rectify, especially when dropped into the engine.
However I'm replying to your comments about your engine's designation, "M 261(2)" v. "M 276". Unless MB changed fitment from model year 2013 then back again in early 2014, I believe you have a "M 276" engine. I have a relatively early 2014 and it is fitted with a "M 276".
Last edited by PACIFICMAN; Jun 27, 2021 at 03:23 PM.
good luck...I've had good luck with a stahlwille 12600 magnet on a wire. they sell two sizes. this one has a 0.20 diameter. mine will lift a 6'-3/8 ratchet extension.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by PACIFICMAN
Firstly, I feel for your situation, dropped parts can be an Enormous bugaboo(I have clumsy fingers) and hard to rectify, especially when dropped into the engine.
However I'm replying to your comments about your engine's designation, "M 261(2)" v. "M 276". Unless MB changed fitment from model year 2013 then back again in early 2014, I believe you have a "M 276" engine. I have a relatively early 2014 and it is fitted with a "M 276".
Thanks for pointing out my error !
In my FIRST post, I was correct:
"2014 GLK350 ... I "think" the engine is referred to as a "276"."
In post 8, I wrote, "it's my understanding my engine is the "261" designation," ...
So yea, I screwed up post 8, which I will correct.
Not sure where I got 261 from
Last edited by calder-cay; Jun 29, 2021 at 05:39 PM.
I think you may want to consider renting/borrowing an endoscope to see where it has gone.
Some are very thin and maneuverable. Once you have your eyes on it you'll know how to proceed.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by juststeve
good luck...I've had good luck with a stahlwille 12600 magnet on a wire. they sell two sizes. this one has a 0.20 diameter. mine will lift a 6'-3/8 ratchet extension.
Thanks !!!
I've been looking for one that has a nekkid magnet (the one mech used has a thin aluminum case around the outside and only the front tip is exposed.
The other one I found is called a "Mighty Worm Magnetic Pickup tool"
What's important is the magnet must be tiny, and the coil must be flexible but slightly rigid.
Last edited by calder-cay; Jun 29, 2021 at 05:41 PM.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by ODIOUS
I think you may want to consider renting/borrowing an endoscope to see where it has gone.
Some are very thin and maneuverable. Once you have your eyes on it you'll know how to proceed.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
My best guess is that center hole is the drain that leads right to the oil pan, so when the filter is loosened that o-ring moves upward and allows the oil to drain out of the filter housing. Look under your GLK, it may have a small steel oil pan; if so it's easy to remove it and check for your thumbwheel. You should replace the pan if it's steel, as they warp when removed. You can also try your flexible magnet through the oil pan drain hole first.
Finally got around to check the pan ... you can see the drain bolt at lower right and then the oil pan "cover".
So a quick search online shows me that the center part is where the clean oil returns to the engine. And from everything im seeing it goes straight to everywhere we dont want it to go camshaft, pistons, combustion chamber. Gravity wont take it there by itself (given the orientation and design of the oil filter assembly) but oil flow certainly will. So whatever you do please dont start that engine until we get this sorted out.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by ODIOUS
So a quick search online shows me that the center part is where the clean oil returns to the engine.
Thanks for that research.
I do wonder, though, is that how "this" engine works?
I have some new photos here, with different perspectives.
1) The first photo is a different angle and zoomed in bit, and I've marked the different orifices, as I did in my first post ...
(r)ed is the crescent-shaped drain (where part fell)
(y)ellow, I assume, is where oil is pushed onto the outside of filter and forced inward, and
(b)lue is "drain".
2) second photo is the snout of the filter (I cut it away from filter). Notice the o-ring and that the extreme end of the snout seals off the (r)ed crescent-shaped orifice.
3) third photo is the same angle as photo #1, but with the snout snapped in place. Notice that the extreme end of the snout has sealed off the (r)ed crescent-shaped orifice. We can see that the (b)lue orifice is obviously exposed / open and available for oil flow.
I think @E55Greasemonkey assumption that the (r)ed orifice is a "drain", so when you pull out the filter, pooled oil now flows down into (r)ed.
Last edited by calder-cay; Dec 30, 2021 at 09:03 PM.
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