2010 GLK 350:

ABS,ESC,PS,runflat error.

diag: icarsoft V3.0 MB diag.

codes: 5001,5945,

*I hope not to hear some stealership comment like the abs module is inop.. I'll need advice on how to troubleshoot and prove this out if this is the culprit.. (pls and thanks &#128522



-all wheel speed sensors oscilloscope readings are registering.

-rpm ranges on all sensors do range from -600 to current wheel speed (at the moment of active monitoring)??

-wheel travel steering recalibrate (bank left- then right then center) done several times.

-steering angle sensor ranges in diag seem fine.

- front wheel speed sensors removed and cleaned, also sprayed cleaner into hub for magnetic encoder ring to clean out.

- ps steering fluid checked and fine, brake fluid fine, brake

-brake switch actuation test in diag is working.

-I have NOT checked resistance (unplugged) at each of the speed sensors yet; as is surely seems like all are working and registering accurate square wave signalling on diag..



any and all help will be appreciated for additional troubleshooting for something I havenot done or am missing pls.. I will be taking my car to the stealership for another repair they did (windshield reservoir) that is leaking fully out again.. but unrelated to this issue.

*should I bite the bait and accept their diag that cost $400.00 of the abs,esc,ps just to hear "we need to replace the abs module and it not the module.. they just dont want to troubleshoot without costing hundreds/thousand into diag?

I’m thinking to do parts bingo which is something I normally NEVER do (replace all 4 speed sensors and theyre cheaper than the stealer diag and stories…; I am troubleshooter to root cause analysis type of person worked on xray,Cat Scans,aircraft,commercial,residential security,+ more..25 years electronics experience.



all speed sensors reqister good wave patterns and speed tracking upto km/h. all the same speed..


after driving, pause in square wave is due to stop light. (front left)

after driving, pause in square wave is due to stop light. (front right)

 

I had the right rear reluctor ring rust to pieces and fall apart a couple of years ago on my 2010. Ring is available for under $20 on amazon but a PITA to change. From your tests, this does not seem to be the issue though.

 

hey "silver Shadow", thanks for the support and post though
what were the signs of the reluctor ring going? no signals on that wheel speed sensor?

 

I replaced the speed sensor and the problem persisted.

 

Do all speed sensors need to be synchronized?
I have left side in since with one another and right insync with one another. But to be clear should all 4 be clocking and stepping together in a “absolute mathematical” sense?

video attached from RIX engineering menu onscreen of command..
you will see one or two Lag on the left and right.at times however rarely, they will sync.
you will have to pause the video and step through slow mo to watch tracking of sensors.

if m/s decrease, vehicle is braking, and increasing speed means acceleration.

i may elect to try parts bingo and replace all wheel speed sensors.. to rule out dirty/degraded sensors.

*upon visual inspection of hub inner side of drive shaft, I can’t see reluctor ring separation, nor do I get any “impalusible errors for any wheel speed sensor”. So I’m *** u me ing that I can atleast rule out wheel speed sensors by putting new ones in.

** Can someone please help if your willing to:
Goto engineering menu onscreen (your GLk and see what the speed sensors are reading:
- press and hold: red hang up button, #,1 all together for a few seconds.
-engineering menu will come up:
- Goto HU options (there’s 2 HUs)
- HU>RIX
-RIX> This is where you can monitor wheel speed sensors with/without obd attached
-record video of statuses

*my vid is too large, will attach some screen shots while braking speed is decreasing at 3

 

Xraywizard, you are diving deep!
Silly question, but did you try the steering wheel lock to lock 3 times steering sensor reset/calibrate. This tends to solve most ABS/ESP dash lights up like a Christmas tree problems.
I forget the exact process, but it involves turning the steering wheel all the way left to lock, then right to lock, and repeat 3 times. The key needs to be on, but car not running (I think). Google should be able to give you better directions.
If this doesn’t work, you might want to look in the C-class W204 forum, same car but shorter. Just pretend you have a sedan 🤪.

 

Hey @sgtpepper ,
deep dive, That’s a 10-4 and Roger that

did the steering re-calibrate like 10 times over the last 2 weeks or so. Same ol’ issues persist.

im trying to avoid the stealer, I do have it booked in at a euro shop alternate to stealer but they’ll likely roulette the abs pick up rings on rear axle shafts as “they’re” common” but I don’t give a .. about common I want root cause and not also another gamble on the able module.

- I’ve electronic contact cleaned the abs connector male&female and re-seated connector.
- disco’d battery to hard clear ecu.
- same s.. on errors.



i even got fuse diag checked all fuses.., esp fuses all good:
#1,14,20



I hope someone can track there RIX data to see if all are synced/clocked together in unison.
i get , air press, .5-1% tolerance stuff, i have an engineering background…

i still haven’t done parts bingo to swap out new wheel speed sensors yet.

* this is a pain in the a for me..

 

I'm not sure what you're getting at, but the numbers in the second screen shot make perfect sense if the car was turning to the right, or, if it's over 787 meters, the overall course was to the right. The numbers in the first screen shot show the car going in a straight line, or averaging equal amounts of left hand and right hand turning.

 

Hey @John CC
at both iterations of pics vehicle is driving straight and not turning.
What im showing in the first pic is a rare anomaly for my wss’s where they’re all “in-sync”. They’re is never, never a time where they’re all synced.
the Second pic is during decell where you can see tracking way off; could be due to brakes grabbing differently but car doesn’t pull.. nor “brake hard” as if abs is compensating.

so, if someone is willing to video they’re RIX data and prove out that in all cases.. the wss’s need to be syncd’ then I can parts bingo swap my wss’s for all new and worse case replace both rear tone rings after wss swaps..

* hopes and dreams that someone is willing to validate what your RIX data is.
Goto engines menu on command (above instructions) and video values please ?

I do have another c300 but I can’t get to RIX menu. Sw doesn’t have the HU configuration cmd.