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Creaking -Very loud- on Drivers side ML430 (2001)

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Old 02-21-2013, 04:58 PM
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Question Creaking -Very loud- on Drivers side ML430 (2001)

Last few days my ML430 (2001) with about 147000 miles has developed a very loud creaking noise on the drivers side. It is a very metallic screech and i hear it when i get in or out of the vehicle. I opened the hood and pushed down on the frame and it does squeek and creak. what could it be be. ? your advise and help appreciated.

thx
Old 02-22-2013, 07:57 PM
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05 ML-500 , 03 CLK5.5 AMG has left the Garage
Creaking -Very loud- on Drivers side ML430 (2001)

I brought a Used ML-500 64,000 miles had the same really bad Creaking. I ID my issues by jacking up the drivers side , removed the wheel , Heated up a tiny screw driver and melted a small hole in the lower ball joint boot. Then got some spray Grease , installed the little red tube in the spray nozzle . stuck the tude in the little hole & filled it up. Reintall the wheel. If the Creak subsides , . Then you know you have to replace it. This is a very short term fix. ! the Creak will come back . I replaced both sides & also replaced the Torsion bar adjustment pads while I was there. Cheers _PTEngineering
Old 02-23-2013, 12:30 AM
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thanks PTE. this creaking is driving me crazy. after reading countless threads i was leaning more towards the sway bar bushings as the culprit. i have had the front and rear lower ball joints replaced at about 114,000 miles and since then i have put on about 33,000 miles. surely these parts should last a bit more then that.

part # 1633300135
# 1633500113

is there a DIY sticky and any special tools for this job.
thanks
Old 03-05-2013, 10:37 PM
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hey PTE do you happen to have instructions and tools used for this DIY. ?

thanks
Old 03-06-2013, 12:08 AM
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2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
[QUOTE=zedrash;5568553]hey PTE do you happen to have instructions and tools used for this DIY. ?

thanks[/QUOTE

One person's problem does not mean it is yours too. Replacing ball joints is time consuming and costly.

Why don't you bring the truck to a front end/alignment shop and they will find the problem in five mins. Then you can decide what you want to do.
Old 03-06-2013, 10:23 AM
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[quote=Maj. Dundee;5568657]
Originally Posted by zedrash
hey PTE do you happen to have instructions and tools used for this DIY. ?

thanks[/QUOTE

One person's problem does not mean it is yours too. Replacing ball joints is time consuming and costly.

Why don't you bring the truck to a front end/alignment shop and they will find the problem in five mins. Then you can decide what you want to do.
I would not be asking or changing parts just because i think it is an issue. with over 12 years of ownership of this vehicle i have had ball joints done thrice and labour in ontario is pricey.
The local shop diagnosed the creaking noise issue as a lower suspension ball joint replacement on drivers side and recommend i replace both front end ball joints. quote on Labour and parts is about $345 compared to stealership price of $655 for each side.
autohausaz sells them for about $20 bucks each and if i can get the job done myself then willing to invest money in the right tools.
Old 03-08-2013, 04:19 AM
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[quote=zedrash;5569022]
Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee

I would not be asking or changing parts just because i think it is an issue. with over 12 years of ownership of this vehicle i have had ball joints done thrice and labour in ontario is pricey.
The local shop diagnosed the creaking noise issue as a lower suspension ball joint replacement on drivers side and recommend i replace both front end ball joints. quote on Labour and parts is about $345 compared to stealership price of $655 for each side.
autohausaz sells them for about $20 bucks each and if i can get the job done myself then willing to invest money in the right tools.
You never mentioned having the problem diagnosed. And the reason why you keep replacing lower ball joints is because you are going to buy $20 ball joints. Do you honestly think that represents quality? Never heard of PEX parts. Sounds like Taiwan or China to me.
Old 03-08-2013, 02:52 PM
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[quote=Maj. Dundee;5571416]
Originally Posted by zedrash

You never mentioned having the problem diagnosed. And the reason why you keep replacing lower ball joints is because you are going to buy $20 ball joints. Do you honestly think that represents quality? Never heard of PEX parts. Sounds like Taiwan or China to me.

If you already checked on autohaus - you will see that they are listed at 140.00 retail - now that is not cheap is it. btw All the replacement changes were OEM made in german parts which did'nt last either so i will take a chance on these, and PEX is also a german company founded in 1977 and a leading OEM supplier.
so going back to my original request I guess there is no one on this site who has done this DIY themselves.
Old 03-08-2013, 05:59 PM
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05 ML-500 , 03 CLK5.5 AMG has left the Garage
DIY request

I did not do a DIY , pictures or write a picture subject. I through there would not be much interest or the subject matter. I'm most sorry. But it is always ok to ask. I don't have a problem with that. When I redid the front suspension on my 05 ML. it had only 66,000 miles. I was a little disappointed that it had many worn parts, and I being the 2nd owner and brought it first the original owner , not knowing how bad the winters were in Minnesota . I excepted the ML's conditions. I was some what shocked at the many worn parts. Not caused by the 1st owner. Lower ball joints, The SACKS shocks , torsion bar adjustment plate pads, I replaced the pads (NOT WITH THE OEM JUNK WHITE NYLON ) but with a set of aftermarket Delrin type. They are tuff as hell & a $100.00 for 2. I also replaced the shocks with Monroe Reflex for a Ford Lighting( Longer stroke & better damping control ) $100.00 a set. As For ball joints I went with the OEM Mercedes 163-330-01-35. Retails for $204.75 I paid under $170.00 a piece. There were many chooses from Rock Auto. If I were to buy from there My choice would have been the premium one with a Grease fitting. I did the whole change out in my home garage , on Jack stands. I used a ball joint separator , I drove the worn out ball Joint out with one hit of a 32oz dead blow Hammer & a Brass hammer acting as a drive plug. The new BJ has a Spanner Nut. so It went to a auto parts store & brought a Spanner socket for a Dana 44 axle nut . $17.00 Then put it in the Lathe and took off .040 ths on the ID , the depth of the sockets drive tangs. You can do this with a Dremel & a stone mounted mandrill. You will see ?? Then off the the Front alignment shop
Cheers _PTEngineering

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