Help ! Warped a second set of Rotors/Pads withint 4 months !!
11-26-2014, 07:55 AM
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Help ! Warped a second set of Rotors/Pads withint 4 months !!
Hi Folks,
I am somewhat desparate about my suv braking issues. During the last 4 months and about 2000mls, I had to change my front rotor and pads twice because they get warped badly. The suv is a dily driver to haul kids and family for everyday usage, not driven hardly or towing anything. My first setup, bought from Pelican, was Textar front pads and OEM MB rotor. The rotor were badly warped after 1000mls. The second setup was OEM front pads and OEM front rotor. As I am writing these lines, the rotor are starting to show some warping symptoms. What I am refering as symptoms is a light to moderate to strong vibration in the steering wheel when braking lightly at highway speed. At some point, on the first setup, the vibration was so strong that there were rattles inside the cabin caused by the ''Shake''. I do not feel vibration in the brake pedal. But changing the rotor will solve the problem immediately (as I experimented going from setup 1 to setup 2).
Anyone can chime in the tell me their experience with such scenario.
Regards
Bo
I am somewhat desparate about my suv braking issues. During the last 4 months and about 2000mls, I had to change my front rotor and pads twice because they get warped badly. The suv is a dily driver to haul kids and family for everyday usage, not driven hardly or towing anything. My first setup, bought from Pelican, was Textar front pads and OEM MB rotor. The rotor were badly warped after 1000mls. The second setup was OEM front pads and OEM front rotor. As I am writing these lines, the rotor are starting to show some warping symptoms. What I am refering as symptoms is a light to moderate to strong vibration in the steering wheel when braking lightly at highway speed. At some point, on the first setup, the vibration was so strong that there were rattles inside the cabin caused by the ''Shake''. I do not feel vibration in the brake pedal. But changing the rotor will solve the problem immediately (as I experimented going from setup 1 to setup 2).
Anyone can chime in the tell me their experience with such scenario.
Regards
Bo
11-26-2014, 11:38 AM
#4
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For some reason the mercedes rotors are not up to the job on a lot of different models. I would suggest go bigger therefore less heat and more resistance to warping. I went full hog with Brembo BBK but you will find many affordable options for upgrades which will do a better job than stock.
11-26-2014, 11:44 AM
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'87 190D, '96 E300D (2), '07 ML320 CDI
Cold water on one side of hot rotors can warp them instantly.
If you wash it right after a drive, that could be the problem.
If you don't, then it's not.
If you wash it right after a drive, that could be the problem.
If you don't, then it's not.
11-26-2014, 02:25 PM
#6
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Bo,
What you are experiencing is not typical/normal. Have you checked to make sure the pads are retracting from the rotor face when releasing the brake pedal? Sounds as though the pads may be dragging on the rotor?
The first set of rotors you purchased from us, what do the surfaces look like? Possible to post a photo?
I understand the car washing potential but I feel there is another issue here. Any additional info would help greatly.
Thank you
Mark/Pelican Parts
What you are experiencing is not typical/normal. Have you checked to make sure the pads are retracting from the rotor face when releasing the brake pedal? Sounds as though the pads may be dragging on the rotor?
The first set of rotors you purchased from us, what do the surfaces look like? Possible to post a photo?
I understand the car washing potential but I feel there is another issue here. Any additional info would help greatly.
Thank you
Mark/Pelican Parts
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11-26-2014, 09:03 PM
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2007 ML320 CDI
When you installed the new rotors and pads did you do it yourself?
If so did you clean off the protective coating on the rotors properly?
How did you bed in the brake pads/rotors?
Likely what you are experiencing is incomplete pad transfer to the rotor surface resulting in a vibration, which can be really bad as you are describing.
Ruling out something physically wrong with your calipers, which I doubt is the issue. Try taking the vehicle out for a long drive and doing several 30-10mph hard slow downs followed by 60-30mph very hard slow downs, say 5-10 times at both speeds. Afterwards drive for 15 mins or so without using the brakes if you can avoid it to cool them off. Parking overnight is best and it should be fine.
I have never measured a rotor to be warped myself, but I'm just a guy on the internet so here's a link to a white paper on the subject.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
If so did you clean off the protective coating on the rotors properly?
How did you bed in the brake pads/rotors?
Likely what you are experiencing is incomplete pad transfer to the rotor surface resulting in a vibration, which can be really bad as you are describing.
Ruling out something physically wrong with your calipers, which I doubt is the issue. Try taking the vehicle out for a long drive and doing several 30-10mph hard slow downs followed by 60-30mph very hard slow downs, say 5-10 times at both speeds. Afterwards drive for 15 mins or so without using the brakes if you can avoid it to cool them off. Parking overnight is best and it should be fine.
I have never measured a rotor to be warped myself, but I'm just a guy on the internet so here's a link to a white paper on the subject.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
11-29-2014, 01:01 AM
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2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI W164)
This same subject was discussed in the GL Class (X166) forum - 'Front brake rotors warped again'. Basic-ML320CDI, the information in your link is spot on! You should post your link there too.
11-29-2014, 08:25 PM
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Thanks all for your reply. The installation was a DIY and it was done properly, torqued to the right spec, flat install. I measure the temperature of the disc with an infrared thermomether and both side reach about the same temp, so I don't think both caliper has a problem at the same time.
I did not do a particular break in procedure. Just installed and driven normally. My mercedes dealer said that the dealer did not do any special bleed in neither, just install and drive.
Anyhow, I just don't want to change the disc again... and again...
I did not do a particular break in procedure. Just installed and driven normally. My mercedes dealer said that the dealer did not do any special bleed in neither, just install and drive.
Anyhow, I just don't want to change the disc again... and again...
11-29-2014, 08:26 PM
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Bo,
What you are experiencing is not typical/normal. Have you checked to make sure the pads are retracting from the rotor face when releasing the brake pedal? Sounds as though the pads may be dragging on the rotor?
The first set of rotors you purchased from us, what do the surfaces look like? Possible to post a photo?
I understand the car washing potential but I feel there is another issue here. Any additional info would help greatly.
Thank you
Mark/Pelican Parts
What you are experiencing is not typical/normal. Have you checked to make sure the pads are retracting from the rotor face when releasing the brake pedal? Sounds as though the pads may be dragging on the rotor?
The first set of rotors you purchased from us, what do the surfaces look like? Possible to post a photo?
I understand the car washing potential but I feel there is another issue here. Any additional info would help greatly.
Thank you
Mark/Pelican Parts
Bo
02-01-2017, 12:07 PM
#14
Newbie
I am in the process of changing over my corvette brakes, and the vette brake folks are maniacal about proper 'bed-in' procedures. They MUST be followed for each specific type of pad installed (stoptech vs ebc vs hbc vs etc). If you don't then an uneven layer of pad material will be deposited onto the rotor causing the death wobble you're feeling.
Thoroughly clean those rotors and follow the recommended bed-in procedure and you should be fine.
Thoroughly clean those rotors and follow the recommended bed-in procedure and you should be fine.
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2008 ML 320 CDI (02-01-2017)
02-03-2017, 08:20 PM
#15
From that time you said you changed the rotors twice, how many miles were on the vehicle and what history was it in before you changed the rotor? I need to know some history leading up to this. what year/model? How many miles have you owned this? How often do you replace tires? Does it wear evenly? Do the tires make any vibration at any speed ?
Last edited by 20swrt; 02-03-2017 at 08:36 PM.
