06 ML350 Manual Liftgate/Rear door issues


I have been through as many threads, posts and google searches as possible prior to starting this thread. (Like really, I read through the first 20 pages of the W164 forum, and done all the searches).
I have seen many issues with the power or automatic liftgates, which we don't have, but have not been able to solve my problem, even with replacing the actuator twice.
So with a bit of history...
Back in about February 2020 we began having issues with the "rear brake light" sensors, they were indicating that they were out and the quick flash indicator would happen, when they weren't. Quite easy to prove. Then we began to have issues with opening the liftgate, sometimes you could pull the door latch and the liftgate would open, others it wouldn't. I did some research and remember reading a post on some forum about the rear lights indicator and the liftgate actuator being connected, so I replaced the actuator.
Well, due to Covid-19, this took a bit to diagnose. The first actuator that I ordered through Amazon and said "Prime", but shipped from the vendor which happened to be in China, and just after I ordered it, it was locked down and took awhile to show up..
So I replaced the actuator, which was really easy through Youtube videos, (
I thought it might be that I bought a cheap actuator, so I re-ordered a new one that was more expensive and not straight out of China. Still took awhile to show up, but NO CHANGE.
Sometimes the liftgate will open, and sometimes it will not. The big indicator that it didn't matter where the actuator came from was after installing the new one, the liftgate opened right away... close it and wait a few minutes, it doesn't open????? My original may be just fine.
I have checked the Rear SAM, NO moisture at all, and as I have also played with trying to install LED lamps in the tail light assembly, and with the "rear brake light" indicator tests, all the seals are perfect on the rear lamp assembly.
I have also removed the rear door latch/handle from the door, have checked the wiring, no open wires or odd grounds? (I don't know what amperage should be going through, but have at least visually checked plugs and wires.)
Again, Manual rear door, no "Power liftgate".
If anyone has any insight it would be great. Quite frustrating to load the rear hatch and then get home and not be able to open the door from the outside of the vehicle. (Yes, the emergency release works just fine.)
Thanks,
Chris


4JGBB86E96A002820
I had thought possibly the switch in the handle?
Are there ohm or voltage readings that I would be able to diagnose?
Thanks Maj.
Last edited by sirhc.c; Sep 19, 2020 at 02:53 PM. Reason: addition
Please update your profile and change the year to 2005.
Copy and paste your opening post and post it on the forum below.
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class.35/


I understand that the Delivery date shows 03/05, but the vehicle registered here in Canada is registered as a 2006, as per the sale and insurance registration.
I've also done a Google search where the VIN registers as a 2006. Could be a early model 2006?


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sirc, you will have to read the codes in the tailgate module. Look at all the possibilities.
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Just waiting on their response.


This is the FAQ page from the BlueDriver scanner that I ordered. Bluetooth scanner with a great app. I have also attached a previous scan with enhanced codes.
https://support.bluedriver.com/suppo...enhanced-codes
When I was having issues previously with the Hyperflash of the signal lights and trying to upgrade to LED bulbs, I had seen in the forums the issues with the taillight assembly seals, (which mine have shown to be good and in place). I've checked the rear SAM for moisture. I have not seen any, but I have not removed the rear SAM to check the board.
As we have lost the Rear backup sensors in the last couple of weeks, thought it might be connected to the rear door actuator, and the possibility of no rear SAM communication, it may be time to pull the cover off and take a better look.
For example, here are the codes for the front SAM and ESP. Compare your code numbers to the official M/B codes.
Delete all of those codes you have stored, then take it for a drive and recheck for codes in all modules.


For example, here are the codes for the front SAM and ESP. Compare your code numbers to the official M/B codes.
Delete all of those codes you have stored, then take it for a drive and recheck for codes in all modules.
I have passed that information onto the developer, they appreciated the feedback and I forwarded the sheets that you sent me.
He did state that they have tried to translate the database to have the correct codes associated.
If you have other code sheets that would benefit their database, I would love to pass them on so that their product is one that would be available to others that wish to DIY and have another product to purchase.
So far it has been a good product to deal with.
As per being able to drive the Mercedes and get new codes...just so happens that last night after a walk on the waterfront, we came back to a new issue, which could all be related with the rear SAM, but Crank and No Start.
I am going to search through and find the diagram of the rear fuse box and relays to do some diagnosis.
May have a new thread...hahaha
Cheers,
Chris
Here are the diagrams for the rear SAM.


Well Maj.
You are correct again.
Here are the photos of the corrosion.
The SAM is place in a bracket off of the body, so not sure where it came from but either the Seals were added or upgraded at some point. They are good now through.
I will try and clean it up, and look at the plug that fits in that socket.
Thanks,
Chris
Last edited by sirhc.c; Sep 26, 2020 at 04:24 PM. Reason: addition


