Hi,
My 2011 ML350 BT 80K miles, had rattle noise on acceleration and was tracked to the wastegate veins in the Turbo and eventually replaced the whole turbo with brand new original Garett and was installed on the car. After the rattle noise is gone, more power was also obtained.
After a couple of days I started smelling diesel smell in the cabin and also noticed a sound on acceleration like detonation or “tapping” noise! When I open the hood and look closely I see light mist/smoke coming up from the right hand of the engine just underneath the air filter on that side, this wasn’t experienced before the turbo replacement.
I have read a lot about injectors leak on MBs, that actually kind of makes sense to me and explains the symptoms I’m experiencing, am l on the right track?
No CEL lights or codes at all on the SUV!
Any ideas, pointers would be appreciated.
Happy New Year Everyone!

thank you!

OK, so no takers!

does anyone any diesel injector rebuild shop Toronto East or Durham Ontario that I can take my injectors to be checked/rebuild?

thanks.

Whoever installed the turbo should be responsible for the leak.

Thanks for your reply.
Can you please elaborate on how the turbo installer would be responsible for leaking injector(s), just can’t see the relation between the two!

Here are the procedures to remove the turbo. If you didn't have that smell of oil before the repair, then something went wrong with the installation.

but it’s not oil smell! It’s diesel smell plus I can visually see the mist like coming from the injector on the passenger side towards the firewall.

thanks.

Thanks for updating.

If that diesel smell was not present before the mechanic replaced the turbo, then they are responsible.

My Guess would be injector return line o ring or Injector O ring.

no reason to disturb these parts for turbo replacement. but yes, seems like the copper washer on one of the injectors. the o rings on the return lines will not make a noise. Also if it is a pinging or detonation noise it is posible that one of the swirl flaps broke off but in that case there would be a code unless somebody already erased those codes permenantly

Interesting! never thought that swirl flaps would cause the detonation noise.
How do you check if the flaps are still attached to the grid and motor without dismantling the whole intake?
I have the resistor needed to cancel the whole mechanism of the flaps/actuator motor, is there value in doing this?
Thanks.