Last summer took my W164 to get the rear brake rotors/pads replaced.
Took the SUV into the shop last week for some AC work and I had them inspect my brakes to see if the fronts needed replacing.
Mechanic comes back and says rear brake rotor/pads needs replacing, he says wait till the sensor goes off to replace them.

So I didn't tell him they were replaced last summer, can someone already spot the dilemma?
So either the shop last year didn't replace them and just charged me OR the latest mechanic is BS'ing me. The mechanic from last year closed up shop a few months back (he had been at that location for 11 years) so I cannot ask him what the deal was.
I want to measure them myself but can I do this with the tires still on? If they are new rotors they shouldn't have any lip since it hasn't even been a year yet correct?

 

You can check the wear as per the PDF or jack up the driver side wheel, remove the tire and check the thickness.

 

Ok so I decided to take a look myself.
The rear rotor doesn't have any lip at all compared to the fronts which definitely have a lip.
Below is a pic of the rear brake pad which looks pretty thick to me, correct?

so I'll give the most recent mechanic the benefit of the doubt and assume he meant to say the fronts (even though I asked him several times if the rears really needed replacing)

below is the driver's side front brake pad

 

I don't know what you mean by "lip". . but it looks like you have enough padding.

Just rely on the Inst. Cluster alert for brake wear.

 

The brake rotor, the fronts have a lip from wear, whereas the rear ones don't since they must be new.

 

Do it the right way and measure the pad thickness using a tool from an auto parts store. There is no dilemma here.

Ignore what mechanics tell you, produce the information yourself. You tell them what to do, not the other way round.

If you have taken the photos correctly, the pads have enough material on them.

 

The pads you are showing look fine, but you need to look at the inner pads as those tend to wear out first.

 

As a rotor wears away, the very outside of the surface remains, as the pads don’t touch that area. This remaining area is often called a lip.

This lip is pretty useful, as it can show 1 mm of wear and the assumption should be there is 1 mm wear on the back side … and maximum permitted wear is 2 mm … so, time for new rotors.

Condition of pads doesn’t matter at this point because old pads on new rotors is not permitted. Time for new pads too.

Of course you have to remove the caliper holder to get the rotor off … and Mercedes specifies the screws that mount the holder be replaced, not reused. Order new screws, too.

 

Yeah I just order a tool from Amazon. I have a micrometer but I'd have to remove the wheel to properly use it. Just glad to know that other shop last summer didn't screw me by not replacing the rear rotor/pads.
I'll wait for the front sensor to go off then I'll have both rotors/pad replaced

 

Absolutely agree that you need to look at both inner and outer pads. If the caliper slides aren’t lubed (on pad change) it won’t slide properly and one pad will rub and wear quicker. Had a case recently when inner was nearly shot but outer was great (still had bevels)

I have put new discs on nearly new pads when a car had low pads (which I had in stock) but needed to wait a few months for discs to come in stock (covid delay in Australia). But obviously not ideal

 

Ignore what mechanics tell you, produce the information yourself. You tell them what to do, not the other way round.







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