2009 ML550 Suspension Replacement/Upgrade
I have been driving it for a few days and although there is no rattling/suspension noise, I feel that there is a lot of body sway after bumps and in turns. Is this normal, or are my shocks going out? I feel like it should be a lot tighter on bumps/cornering.
Is there a go to in suspension replacement for these that people recommend? I commute in the city with this vehicle, but prefer less body roll, even it it means stiffer ride.




Check your sway bar bushes and links first. If they haven't been changed, they will be worn out. Without doubt. Cheao and easy replacement, noting sway bar link has one lonher bolt at one end and to torque them with the weight of the car on them. Check upper and lower control arm bushes as well. If you want the ride to firm up, you'll need to do these as well.
FCP Euro have recently had a sale on Bilstein shockers.
Are Bilsteins the way to go? I've used them on my van and been happy.




Lastly, I ordered all of my parts from Rock Auto and thought I got a great deal on my Bilsteins.
I have been driving it for a few days and although there is no rattling/suspension noise, I feel that there is a lot of body sway after bumps and in turns. Is this normal, or are my shocks going out? I feel like it should be a lot tighter on bumps/cornering.
Is there a go to in suspension replacement for these that people recommend? I commute in the city with this vehicle, but prefer less body roll, even it it means stiffer ride.
That being said I did replace all the suspension in my Sprinter van and that made a world of difference in body sway.
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After taking care of this, the ML drove like a new car again, the difference in ride quality was/is obviously amazing.
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After taking care of this, the ML drove like a new car again, the difference in ride quality was/is obviously amazing.
The rears are easy since they're not coilover, so you don't have to deal with compressing the spring. Finding the correct spot to cut the foam insulation behind the rear side panels to get at the top nuts was about the only thing that took any time.
The fronts were more work. The spring rate is fairly high (the hat says something about 1300 lbs.) and you'll need a good spring compressor that can compress at least six of the coils to release the tension on the hat. I started with old spring compressors I've used in the past, but they started bending and binding once the spring had significant compression. I didn't feel safe compressing further and remembered I had a newer set I've never used so I decided to give them a try. They worked much better, but I had to compress 6 coils completely to get tension off the hat.
Next, the WIS calls for removing the axles to get the shocks off so you'll need a stout impact or long breaker and and socket (36mm) to get the axle nut off. I had to use a front hub puller to push the stub axle out of the hub once the axle nut was off. You'll need to pop the upper control arm off, disconnect the sway bar link and turn the steering wheel to get enough clearance to get the stub axle completely out of the hub. Use a pry bar to pop the other end out of the front differential. I saw a video somewhere of someone using a long pry bar to force the lower control arm down enough to get the shock off without axle removal, but I was worried about damage to the control arm bushings because of the amount of rotation needed. Not that difficult of a job, but make sure you've got the correct tools lined up before starting.
Old inadequate spring compressors
New better spring compressors
Hub puller to push axle out of the hub
I have been driving it for a few days and although there is no rattling/suspension noise, I feel that there is a lot of body sway after bumps and in turns. Is this normal, or are my shocks going out? I feel like it should be a lot tighter on bumps/cornering.
Is there a go to in suspension replacement for these that people recommend? I commute in the city with this vehicle, but prefer less body roll, even it it means stiffer ride.




