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My vehicle does not start. When I turn the ignition, the starter cranks but does not turn over and start. I tested the battery and it is fully charged and good. I hooked up my diagnostic scanner and these are the codes the came up:
1) 0894- the gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping
2) 9001- undervoltage supply
3) 903D- Terminal 30 Not Present
4) 903E- Terminal 30b Not Present/ Undervoltage supply (storage battery)
5) 9005- Control unit N70 (overhead control panel control unit) was disconnected from tml. 30.
6) 9062- Component G1/7 (auxiliary batter) is defective or not installed
7) 9346- Fault in CAN communication with control
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Please explain a little more
”When I turn the ignition, the starter cranks but does not turn over and start”
Is the motor turning over?
Have you looked into the rear Sam and checked it for wet and corrosion?
Yes, the engine is turning. I've attached a video of how the vehicle sounds when I turn the ignition key.
I looked at the rear SAM and there is not any water damage. I did have water damage in the rear SAM three years ago due to a leaking water container in the back of the vehicle and replaced the rear SAM at an independent Mercedes mechanic.
I hope you got it by now. If not..... The M113 (and the M112) typically will crank and no start due to no fuel or no spark. The no fuel can be trouble shot by attaching a fuel pressure gauge on the large schrader valve on the fuel rail. Located under the front cover on the passenger side, it has a black cap on it. Unscrew the cap the reveal the valve. No fuel pressure = trouble shoot sender and pump.
No spark is usually the CPS (crank position sensor) Located on the drivers side bell housing. https://mbworld.org/articles/code-p0...r-replacement/
I appreciate the feedback you provided! I took the vehicle to an independent mechanic for a diagnostic check before I received your response. This mechanic found that the Rear Fuse Box was melted at Fuse #57 (fuel pump w/ fuel gauge sensor). Rear Fuse Box melted at fuse #57
This mechanic recommended I replace the Rear Fuse Box and the ISM module. I took the vehicle back to my house since repairs were going to be $2,400 without knowing the root cause of the melted Rear Fuse Box.
What could be the cause of the melted Rear Fuse Box at Fuse #57? Any other suggestions to repair issue are very much appreciated.
Most likely the fuel pump was drawing excessive current and caused the melt down. Pump could be bad or the filter in the sending unit is clogged, Solution is to replace both pump and sender. Both can cause excessive current draw. Of course you have to R&R the fuse box also. It's a common failure in the M113 series cars.
Most likely the fuel pump was drawing excessive current and caused the melt down. Pump could be bad or the filter in the sending unit is clogged, Solution is to replace both pump and sender. Both can cause excessive current draw. Of course you have to R&R the fuse box also. It's a common failure in the M113 series cars.
Not sure I agree that Fuse and fuse box melt down are a common place in M113?? First do we know for certain that the proper fuse was used? Once you fine the cause of excessive current pull I would be worried that the wire has been melted also?
Not sure I agree that Fuse and fuse box melt down are a common place in M113?? First do we know for certain that the proper fuse was used? Once you fine the cause of excessive current pull I would be worried that the wire has been melted also?
So ask yourself..... How many miles are on my fuel filter and when was the filter changed last???? Also....What is the maintenance schedule for fuel filters, suggested by MB????
So ask yourself..... How many miles are on my fuel filter and when was the filter changed last???? Also....What is the maintenance schedule for fuel filters, suggested by MB????
If a fuel pump works “harder” because of a filter does it cause the fuse block to melt ? No. The fuse block is built to pull the current that the proper fuse allows. Faulty fuse or wrong fuse is my guess right now.
Not sure I agree that Fuse and fuse box melt down are a common place in M113?? First do we know for certain that the proper fuse was used? Once you fine the cause of excessive current pull I would be worried that the wire has been melted also?
If a fuel pump works “harder” because of a filter does it cause the fuse block to melt ? No. The fuse block is built to pull the current that the proper fuse allows. Faulty fuse or wrong fuse is my guess right now.
Now what's your guess? There's a melted hole in the fuse box where the fuel pump fuse is located and your worried that the wire might be melted.......?
https://www.mercedesmedic.com/fuel-s...hooting-guide/
"If you change the fuel pump and it fails again soon a few months later, you may have a partially clogged fuel filter or a restriction in the fuel lines. Under such conditions, the fuel pump may draw excessive current and blow the fuel pump fuse."
In this case, a blown fuse would have been better than a melted box.
https://automotivetechinfo.com/wp-co...p-Circuits.pdf [QUOTEThere are three possible causes for a blown fuse here: the wire after the fuse is shorted to ground, the fuel pump control module is shorted to ground internally, or the fuel pump has increased its current draw to the point that it exceeds the fuse’s amperage limit. As a fuel pump’s commutator and brushes wear, it tends to draw more amperage than the system is designed to handle.[/QUOTE]
Now what's your guess? There's a melted hole in the fuse box where the fuel pump fuse is located and your worried that the wire might be melted.......?
https://www.mercedesmedic.com/fuel-s...hooting-guide/
"If you change the fuel pump and it fails again soon a few months later, you may have a partially clogged fuel filter or a restriction in the fuel lines. Under such conditions, the fuel pump may draw excessive current and blow the fuel pump fuse."
In this case, a blown fuse would have been better than a melted box.
https://automotivetechinfo.com/wp-co...p-Circuits.pdf [QUOTEThere are three possible causes for a blown fuse here: the wire after the fuse is shorted to ground, the fuel pump control module is shorted to ground internally, or the fuel pump has increased its current draw to the point that it exceeds the fuse’s amperage limit. As a fuel pump’s commutator and brushes wear, it tends to draw more amperage than the system is designed to handle.
[/QUOTE]
I have been working on cars especially MB’s since the 60’s. I am also and Electrician and EE … I am trying to help from a distance away without the ability to have a meter or my eyes . The ML’s with 500 motors do not have a weak link of melting fuse boards that I have experienced or read about ( I have owned 2 and 2 GL550’s) pretty much the same. They do have a water problem that can short things out in a hurry with nasty corrosion for sure. And yes if a board has seen so much current that it has melted … after I replaced the board I would definitely check the wire running to the pump. smile 😊 with all your different conclusions the fuse blows .. not melting the board… THUS MY FIRST CONCLUSION was the possibility of someone putting in the wrong fuse.
So let’s get back to fixing the problem …
greidy, ask MTBenz420 what caused his fuse box to melt.....
MTBenz420 responded to me "I replaced the fuse box with a used one from eBay. I then replaced both the fuel pump and the fuel filter; I.e., both sides of the fuel tank. That fixed the melting problem, draw on the current through that fuse"
07-10-2024, 04:28 PM
