M-Class (W166) Produced 2012-2015

Shaking after start up

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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 08:25 PM
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Shaking after start up

I have a 2014 ML350 4matic base with 126,000 miles. The vehicle is due for an oil change. Today I started the vehicle up and the vehicle started shaking side to side and the exhaust sounded strange. The check engine light began to flash. What could this be? Any ideas?
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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 09:09 PM
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From: In the Shadow of the Tetons
2013 ML350 Bluetec
Codes. Your car is begging you to check them. Guessing you'll find a cylinder misfire.
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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 10:08 PM
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ECU dyno tune; EDOK TCU tune; BB intakes; sprintbooster
When did you do plugs and coils
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Old Apr 7, 2025 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
When did you do plugs and coils
I purchased the vehicle CPO when it had approximately 48,000 miles believe. The dealership told me they did spark plugs around then. I read up on the shaking of the vehicle, and with my milage and it seems like you are right. I def need to change the spark plugs and get the coils replaced.

I ordered a scanner to read the code via amazon. the moment I get home I'm going to checkout the codes.

On another note, where do you guys purchase your brake pads, rotors, and sensors from? Dealership wants $1200 for parts alone. I noticed autozone has powerstop and some other brands i've neer heard of. What do you guys recommend and what is a reasonable price for brakes, rotors?
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Old Apr 7, 2025 | 05:24 PM
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Oil in harness.

Check cam sensor and cam magnet connectors for signs of oil.
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Old Apr 7, 2025 | 07:33 PM
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From: In the Shadow of the Tetons
2013 ML350 Bluetec
I just put $550 worth of Powerstop's best rotors and pads on all four corners of my ML. That brand is already on Wife's jeep and my Chevy 3/4 ton truck. Good stuff.

here's one of the front of the ML.
FOLLOW THE BREAK IN PROCEDURE and make sure you have your 11mm Allen socket ready.

Last edited by rapidoxidation; Apr 7, 2025 at 08:54 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2025 | 09:14 PM
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
REALLY PROPORTIONAL BRAKES

Originally Posted by sixers
I purchased the vehicle CPO when it had approximately 48,000 miles believe. The dealership told me they did spark plugs around then. I read up on the shaking of the vehicle, and with my milage and it seems like you are right. I def need to change the spark plugs and get the coils replaced.

I ordered a scanner to read the code via amazon. the moment I get home I'm going to checkout the codes.

On another note, where do you guys purchase your brake pads, rotors, and sensors from? Dealership wants $1200 for parts alone. I noticed autozone has powerstop and some other brands i've neer heard of. What do you guys recommend and what is a reasonable price for brakes, rotors?
Cleaner Akenono ceramic pads and Zimmerman rotors from FCP-Euro.
Free lifetime replacements with excellent wear characteristics.

Good deal on parts + amazin labor for a nicely short + proportional brake pedal.

The caliper springs are way to strong and cause uneven wear on single piston setup.

FAULTY CALIPER SPRINGS
FAULTY CALIPER SPRINGS

These hardware springs torque the caliper 90 degree against sliders pins so calipers can not slide:
  • Genuine outer pads: NEW
  • Genuine inner pads: WASTED
  • > Fix the springs gets proportional brakes.
  • Front + back: same deal!

Proof : compare wear inner vs. outer pads
Regardless of clean siliconed sliders at 5k.Mi.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 7, 2025 at 09:26 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2025 | 06:06 PM
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ml350 bluetec
Another brake option I used this. Did not need for rotor's
This was for my 2012 bluetec.
Carquest PXD1630H rear , PXD 1629H front[size=13px] [/size][size=13px]under US $140 for full set[/size]Rotor if really needed $120ec


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Old Apr 9, 2025 | 07:36 PM
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From: In the Shadow of the Tetons
2013 ML350 Bluetec
Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Cleaner Akenono ceramic pads and Zimmerman rotors from FCP-Euro.
Free lifetime replacements with excellent wear characteristics.

Good deal on parts + amazin labor for a nicely short + proportional brake pedal.

The caliper springs are way to strong and cause uneven wear on single piston setup.

FAULTY CALIPER SPRINGS
FAULTY CALIPER SPRINGS

These hardware springs torque the caliper 90 degree against sliders pins so calipers can not slide:
  • Genuine outer pads: NEW
  • Genuine inner pads: WASTED
  • > Fix the springs gets proportional brakes.
  • Front + back: same deal!

Proof : compare wear inner vs. outer pads
Regardless of clean siliconed sliders at 5k.Mi.
The rotors were junk, inside and out, front and back, left and right. After 12 years of use over 80K miles they were done, pad wear notwithstanding. That said, the inside pads were a bit more worn than the outside pads, but that has been what I've seen on literally every brake job I've ever done. Nature of the caliper design.
The front calipers on my ML are dual piston. Rears are single piston and have a very different setup.

Edited to add: I was a fan of FCPEuro until they changed their "lifetime warranty" policy. Now they're just an expensive place to get parts. There are better parts, and I do believe (from my experience) that Powerstop brakes are better parts.

Last edited by rapidoxidation; Apr 9, 2025 at 07:37 PM.
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Old May 24, 2025 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by sixers
I have a 2014 ML350 4matic base with 126,000 miles. The vehicle is due for an oil change. Today I started the vehicle up and the vehicle started shaking side to side and the exhaust sounded strange. The check engine light began to flash. What could this be? Any ideas?
Hello mates. I just wanted to give an update. Yes indeed cylinder 6 was misfiring and required a coil to be changed along with the spark plug. I first ordered bosh plugs from fceuro and had an independent mechanic replace all 6 plugs and the the coils. Turns out the mechanic changed only the coil boots not the coils themselves. Shady mechanic went Mia after I spent a total of around $500. I ended up going to Mercedes where they fixed the issue for $2300. So for $2300 they replaced all of the coils and replaced the spark plug in cylinder 6 as they said it was flooding with fuel and was some what burnt out.
​​​​​​​
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Old May 24, 2025 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by sixers
Hello mates. I just wanted to give an update. Yes indeed cylinder 6 was misfiring and required a coil to be changed along with the spark plug. I first ordered bosh plugs from fceuro and had an independent mechanic replace all 6 plugs and the the coils. Turns out the mechanic changed only the coil boots not the coils themselves. Shady mechanic went Mia after I spent a total of around $500. I ended up going to Mercedes where they fixed the issue for $2300. So for $2300 they replaced all of the coils and replaced the spark plug in cylinder 6 as they said it was flooding with fuel and was some what burnt out.
Super common issue (and also the shady mechanics...and the inflated repair and parts costs at the dealerships). Many of us don't even get to 100,000 miles on the original factory ignition coils without at least one shorting out and blowing a fuse for everything on that cylinder bank (causing VERY rough idle followed by a Check Engine light, as I described here). Usually, when someone mentions the symptoms you described on these mid-2010s V6 ML 350s at anywhere between 80,000 to 120,000+ miles and had never replaced the original ignition coils (or replaced them with BERU coils...), this is the very first possible cause for this issue that crosses my mind...

Last edited by Œuvre; May 24, 2025 at 11:51 PM.
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Old May 29, 2025 | 05:52 PM
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2015 ML 350 V6/W166
Originally Posted by Œuvre
Super common issue (and also the shady mechanics...and the inflated repair and parts costs at the dealerships). Many of us don't even get to 100,000 miles on the original factory ignition coils without at least one shorting out and blowing a fuse for everything on that cylinder bank (causing VERY rough idle followed by a Check Engine light, as I described here). Usually, when someone mentions the symptoms you described on these mid-2010s V6 ML 350s at anywhere between 80,000 to 120,000+ miles and had never replaced the original ignition coils (or replaced them with BERU coils...), this is the very first possible cause for this issue that crosses my mind...
I've done a lot of reading on this and I can't seem to find a common among people when it comes to brand for the coils. Bosch (labeled BERU), Beru, Bremi, Mercedes and others are available. It gets confusing on which ones are OE and which ones work best for the price.
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Old Jun 4, 2025 | 06:05 PM
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ML350
Originally Posted by sixers
Hello mates. I just wanted to give an update. Yes indeed cylinder 6 was misfiring and required a coil to be changed along with the spark plug. I first ordered bosh plugs from fceuro and had an independent mechanic replace all 6 plugs and the the coils. Turns out the mechanic changed only the coil boots not the coils themselves. Shady mechanic went Mia after I spent a total of around $500. I ended up going to Mercedes where they fixed the issue for $2300. So for $2300 they replaced all of the coils and replaced the spark plug in cylinder 6 as they said it was flooding with fuel and was some what burnt out.
Too expensive. I will replace the spark plugs and coils this autumn. Yes, I will do this work myself.
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