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Hi I have a 2015 ML which has had collapsed engine mounts according to the dealer for a couple years. How much would it cost from an independent to change and how long would it take if I tried to DIY it? Does it make a big difference when the engine mounts are replaced? The car doesn't really seem to be driving rough but the suspension rides not that well. Sorry if this was posted elsewhere but I couldn't find anything.
2013 ML350 Bluetec, 1966 Ford Mustang Convertible (sold)
Originally Posted by ARL_350
Hi I have a 2015 ML which has had collapsed engine mounts according to the dealer for a couple years. How much would it cost from an independent to change and how long would it take if I tried to DIY it? Does it make a big difference when the engine mounts are replaced? The car doesn't really seem to be driving rough but the suspension rides not that well. Sorry if this was posted elsewhere but I couldn't find anything.
How many miles/km on your ML? My 2013 has 367 000 km and still on original mounts (engine and transmission). I haven't inspected them in a very long time, so they're probably busted... I'm also curious as to what others will say... I don't seem to notice any symptoms on mine.
2014 ML63, 2018 GLC43, 1929 DB victory six sports roadster
I had 250,000km on my ML500 and have 140,000 on the 63 and have no issues with engine mounts. They are liquid filled mounts so check for any sign of fluid around them. That should be a good indication for you.
How many miles/km on your ML? My 2013 has 367 000 km and still on original mounts (engine and transmission). I haven't inspected them in a very long time, so they're probably busted... I'm also curious as to what others will say... I don't seem to notice any symptoms on mine.
Mines has 97k miles, but according to the dealer the engine mounts went bad 3-4 years ago.
2014 ML63, 2018 GLC43, 1929 DB victory six sports roadster
That sounds like a stab in the dark to me. I would get a second opinion or get someone to give the engine a quick rev while you’re looking at it. See if there is any excessive movement. Is there any vibration at idle?
Our 2012 ML350, at 140 K miles, has the driver's side mount entirely shot. Open the hood, start the engine, with the brakes pressed, try to accelerate a tiny bit. If the engine is shot, the engine will lift quite a bit. Careful, nobody is in front of you
The engine mount can be changed from above, but it requires disconnecting a few parts : ECU, heat shields, AC compressor from the engine block (keep hoses connected), lift the engine from below, pull the mount, put the new mount and start the reverse process.
Had the same told by dealer in MA, for 2012, 141K miles for all 3 mounts. Parts labor quote came out at 3,208.74, called indy quote was provided around 1900. I did transmission mount already, it took me about 30-40 min and ~44 shipped from FCP. Bought passenger side, but did not have a chance to do it yet. There is a thread on this forum which has WIS pdfs attached how to do it, and torque specs.
If you do one mount at a time, will you be able to lift engine far enough to replace mount? Or its easier to do two mounts at the same time?
I did mine one side at a time. Its not that hard a job, just tight access. A transmission jack would be ideal to lift the engine (assuming you have access to a lift). If you're doing the job on ramps then any old hydraulic jack plus some blocking will work. I can't remember how long it took - maybe a couple or three hours. Pay particular attention to the wire routing before you remove the old mounts and make sure you don't pinch the wiring when you let the engine back down on the new mounts. Other than that its pretty straight forward.
I did mine one side at a time. Its not that hard a job, just tight access. A transmission jack would be ideal to lift the engine (assuming you have access to a lift). If you're doing the job on ramps then any old hydraulic jack plus some blocking will work. I can't remember how long it took - maybe a couple or three hours. Pay particular attention to the wire routing before you remove the old mounts and make sure you don't pinch the wiring when you let the engine back down on the new mounts. Other than that its pretty straight forward.
Thanks! I'll start working on it probably in a month or two. I have vehicle vibrating at idle, but all motor mounts look dry. Will have to do more testing including what was mentioned here to know for sure if they need to be replaced.
I have been told I need new engine mounts, but I have not got a second opinion yet. They based it on starting and revving the engine, so I want a more in-depth look.
I suspect my bluetec engine mounts are shot at 280k km, I have excessive engine vibration at idle when cold. Tends to smooth out a bit when warmed up but still has some vibrations when slowing down at a stop light.
If you do one mount at a time, will you be able to lift engine far enough to replace mount? Or its easier to do two mounts at the same time?
I just did both of mine on M276 engine– about 4 hours total with ramps on the driveway. It can be done one side at a time, but I wouldn't recommend it.
If only one side needs replacing, I'd suggest unscrewing the other side's engine mount from the frame to give the engine some room to lift.
Air filter housing probably needs to come off even for the left (driver's side) mount.
I used a 2x4 on the oil pan to lift the engine – not sure if that's the "proper" spot, but it worked for me.
Need 16 mm socket or tool that I had previous post
Need some good long extensions and other torx (10 and 12 I think) heads
Snapped some pictures from left (drivers side)
Dropped A/C compressor, removed ECU, and heat shield covering mount, did not remove oxygen sensor or heat shield for this side. Probably the hardest part was to reach screw on the back of the A/C and then screw it back....
Right (passengers side)
Picture before I removed alternator from engine
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