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Current 2013 ML350 Diesel---2004 SL500, 1992 500sl, 2005 e320 work wagon
Fuse box next to battery
Hi all, I am chasing some electrical gremlins and have checked everything but the fuses next to the battery. I pulled the battery today and just can't seem to figure out how to get the fuse box turned so I can check the fuses (they face upward and are not accessible). I removed one plastic screw that holds the rear bracket in place, but that made little difference. Has anyone removed this box before? There are two tabs that really don't seem to want to move on either end, but I don't want to force them too hard, so they snap. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Hi all, I am chasing some electrical gremlins and have checked everything but the fuses next to the battery. I pulled the battery today and just can't seem to figure out how to get the fuse box turned so I can check the fuses (they face upward and are not accessible). I removed one plastic screw that holds the rear bracket in place, but that made little difference. Has anyone removed this box before? There are two tabs that really don't seem to want to move on either end, but I don't want to force them too hard, so they snap. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Scott
Scott, what motivated you to inspect this fusebox ??
Perhaps the solution is nowhere near that... MB fuseboxe seldom go bad.
Factory painted GND posts do need attention.
Single main GND STRAP is mounted all the way undercariage in road splash area.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 23, 2026 at 05:06 PM.
Current 2013 ML350 Diesel---2004 SL500, 1992 500sl, 2005 e320 work wagon
Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Scott, what motivated you to inspect this fusebox ??
Perhaps the solution is nowhere near that... MB fuseboxe seldom go bad.
Factory painted GND posts do need attention.
Single main GND STRAP is mounted all the way undercariage in road splash area.
Thanks for the reply. This ML was in an accident, so I'm going a bit deep. The car ran and drove fine until yesterday when I came out to a no start/no crank, no headlights. I was fiddling with some electrical connectors, so it's likely my fault. I have an older MB scanner that I used on my old CLK, E320 and Sl500 that isn't giving me a lot of info. Guess it's time to upgrade...any suggestions? I thought I would check all the fuses before I started messing with modules.
Last edited by wolfords; Jan 23, 2026 at 06:14 PM.
Good luck with finding the trouble. Take a look at the YOUCANIC scanner bi directional, free updates dose multiple cars, used for 2+ years on serval cars ++
Thanks for the reply. This ML was in an accident, so I'm going a bit deep. The car ran and drove fine until yesterday when I came out to a no start/no crank, no headlights. I was fiddling with some electrical connectors, so it's likely my fault. I have an older MB scanner that I used on my old CLK, E320 and Sl500 that isn't giving me a lot of info. Guess it's time to upgrade...any suggestions? I thought I would check all the fuses before I started messing with modules.
A lot of us enjoy scanning with LAUNCH cReader Elite around $100.USD Good coverage and easy to use emailed reports...
"No Crank" can be a failure of drive authorization. Scanner will help you progress a lot faster than fuses by getting access to live chassis status.
This one paid itself already: diagnosed sister's battery, and the neighbors' Camry's battery and alternator. It saved my neighbor from having to install a new alternator, as diagnosed by a shop.
Battery tester: TopDon Battery tester
This one paid itself already: diagnosed sister's battery, and the neighbors' Camry's battery and alternator. It saved my neighbor from having to install a new alternator, as diagnosed by a shop.
Good suggestion, I have the battery out now, so later in the week, if it ever warms up, I'll run it over to NAPA for a load test. The battery on my boat went south last year and the other stores testers said it was good. Failed immediately at NAPA, so I think they may have a better machine. Or at least that's what I tell myself
Current 2013 ML350 Diesel---2004 SL500, 1992 500sl, 2005 e320 work wagon
I was able to get a load test on the battery and its good. Back to trying to access those fuses next to the battery. has anyone been able to get them out?
I was able to get a load test on the battery and its good.
Back to trying to access those fuses next to the battery. has anyone been able to get them out?
If you have pulled live fuses... you will need to reboot your chassis back to sanity by disconnecting both batteries.
Then why not start right there... so you can use an DVM /Ohmeter while all power's out.
Why?
Because fuse links are bolted on inside the Prefuse-box near battery.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 29, 2026 at 04:45 PM.
Current 2013 ML350 Diesel---2004 SL500, 1992 500sl, 2005 e320 work wagon
Hi CaliBenzDriver, I'm not sure I follow your comment
Why? Because fuse links are bolted on inside the Prefuse-box near battery.
I have attached a photo of the fuses I am trying to access. They face up, so you can't pull them. There doesn't seem to be a logical way to move the plastic bracket so you can access the fuses to test.
I picked up a more modern scanner and there are multiple modules offline, so I believe one of these main fuses is blown. I have found several forum post with the same issue on the W166, but none of them have an actual way to remove these fuses.
Current 2013 ML350 Diesel---2004 SL500, 1992 500sl, 2005 e320 work wagon
Just to close this one out if anyone else runs into this. In order to access those fuses, you need to remove the front seat, door seals and pillar cover. Then pull the carpet up. You will have to remove some air ducts and several plastic nuts that hold the plastic cover that covers the battery area including the fuses. Kind of annoying, but I was able to do it in about 30 minutes. I have attached a couple pics.
Scott
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