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First I really appreciate anyone who reads this entire post. I have a 2005 C230 that has a crank no start issue. The car had been sitting for a couple of years because of the issue. I determined 2 years ago that the timing chain had failed. My sister never had it repaired and recently gave the car to my daughter. So Dad (me lol) had the head reworked and replace the timing chain. However the car still cranks but doesn't start. So I started my diagnosis process all over again. I found that the coils are not producing spark and that the front Sam has water damage (visible corrosion), and that the drivers side floor was wet. So I pulled the seats and removed the carpet and inspected all the connections. So fare I have Replaced the front SAM, cleaned connectors under carpet, and replaced Canbus connectors. And still have no spark. I've attached the scan report.
Last edited by outdoorjunke; 03-03-2024 at 06:32 PM.
First I really appreciate anyone who reads this entire post. I have a 2005 C230 that has a crank no start issue. The car had been sitting for a couple of years because of the issue. I determined 2 years ago that the timing chain had failed. My sister never had it repaired and recently gave the car to my daughter. So Dad (me lol) had the head reworked and replace the timing chain. However the car still cranks but doesn't start. So I started my diagnosis process all over again. I found that the coils are not producing spark and that the front Sam has water damage (visible corrosion), and that the drivers side floor was wet. So I pulled the seats and removed the carpet and inspected all the connections. So fare I have Replaced the front SAM, cleaned connectors under carpet, and replaced Canbus connectors. And still have no spark. I've attached the scan report.
Nice work, your chassis is almost ready for prime time.
Your perfect report only shows C1330 as a real active issue. The stored faults are secondary at this point.
I am not positive BAS/ESP fault can prevent starting the engine.
Now go ahead and use your excellent scanner to read live data stream of EIS: Ignition module, F-SAM and ECU.
Spend couple hours poking around well for odd status.
Your going to find a condition is not satisfied....
---> Brake SW ok ?
(we know it's cranking: sw ok)
Keep the battery well charged up. No need to crank while testing with your scanner data mode.
In addition comb ECU values:
fuel rail pressure
CKP sensor
....
👏
++++ Mismatched F-SAM VIN +++
You know MB parts are coded.... make sure you used replacement parts are not causing "crank no-start" condition - This is related to MB DRIVE AUTHORIZATION.... to which I am not expert at hackin German security.
Remedy is as simple as coding mismatched fields.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 03-03-2024 at 07:50 PM.
BLS was intermittent but works now. I have a new one on the way. Fuel pressure at rail is 65psi when cranking. The crankshaft position sensor is new and I'm getting rpms on live data when cranking it.
Yes, it does: good job at it.
You have perfect fuel and CKP so let's check on spark from the ECU.
Let's check your spark coils have power.
One of the SAM relay may be bad.
We ve.got to trace down why so close
Ok I found the problem. The power wire for the coils red/blue had a loss connection at the ecm. It's running but it's running very rough. The MAF sensor is not working I'm getting nothing on the scanner. But I wouldn't think a dead MAF sensor would cause such a rough idle I mean it's bad. I'm thinking maybe I have the timing chain set wrong.
Ok I found the problem. The power wire for the coils red/blue had a loss connection at the ecm. It's running but it's running very rough. The MAF sensor is not working I'm getting nothing on the scanner. But I wouldn't think a dead MAF sensor would cause such a rough idle I mean it's bad. I'm thinking maybe I have the timing chain set wrong.
Great, now engine starts but idles rough!
MAF would not cause a "no start" condition.
What is the FUEL pressure ?
What are the fuel trims
What are the live faults on the whole chassis
What is the running voltage?
Okay I read the complete report:
a lot of faults point to CAN-C disruption from there the other faults are tied to that or secondary.
The big questions are:
1-- what CAN-C VIP module is not working and impacting your whole CAN-C ??
2-- water damaged SAM has been replaced already ... is it really working now??
The Sam is functioning the head lights, blinkers, fog lamps, and wipers work.
I just realized I didn't mention that I removed the brake boost for inspection due to the P2404, C1201, and C1330. I found water inside the brake booster and ordered a used one. I've been trying to troubleshoot shoot this running rough issue while waiting for the part to come in. Is it possible that the system is causing the car to run rough (limp mode) due to the ESP conditions? I did plug all the vacuum lines associated with the brake booster. I received the booster last night and will install it today.
The Sam is functioning the head lights, blinkers, fog lamps, and wipers work.
I just realized I didn't mention that I removed the brake boost for inspection due to the P2404, C1201, and C1330. I found water inside the brake booster and ordered a used one. I've been trying to troubleshoot shoot this running rough issue while waiting for the part to come in. Is it possible that the system is causing the car to run rough (limp mode) due to the ESP conditions?
I did plug all the vacuum lines associated with the brake booster. I received the booster last night and will install it today.
Yes, ESP can collapse CAN-C signals really well. Try to disconnect it and start the engine to see if that helps fix roughness - Obviously faults will complain of ESP wheel speed data missing reset all module faults.
(Needless to say don't drive without brakes: ESP + Booster).
Speaking of vacuum booster, you said you plugged the Big vacuum line, on the engine side, right?
Q?: vacuum booster and SAM where flooded... is it possible the ISM shifter Module attached to tranny side got swamped to? It can short CAN-C.
Yes, ESP can collapse CAN-C signals really well. Try to disconnect it and start the engine to see if that helps fix roughness - Obviously faults will complain of ESP wheel speed data missing reset all module faults.
(Needless to say don't drive without brakes: ESP + Booster).
Speaking of vacuum booster, you said you plugged the Big vacuum line, on the engine side, right?
Q?: vacuum booster and SAM where flooded... is it possible the ISM shifter Module attached to tranny side got swamped to? It can short CAN-C.
Yes I plugged the vacuum port off the intake and the vacuum pump behind the head. I don't think the ISM shifter Module got wet because the car wasn't flooded. My nephew left the Sam cover and lid off and the brake booster hose off the entire time it sat 3 years. Needless to say the entire divers side floor board was soaked. I'm close to bringing this thing BACK TO LIFE! Thanks for the help! I'll report back with the results.
Last edited by outdoorjunke; 03-15-2024 at 02:43 PM.
I don't think the ISM shifter Module got wet because the car wasn't flooded.
My nephew left the Sam cover and lid off and the brake booster hose off the entire time it sat 3 years. Needless to say the entire divers side floor board was soaked. I'm close to bringing this thing BACK TO LIFE!
Thanks for the help! I'll report back with the results.
The driver side floor is where SAM and ECU source their GND... these need cleaning and protection.
CAN distribution bars are located right there too... these need to be in perfect shape and connectors as well.
Overall it sounds like this whole flood issue started with roof drains being plugged up by the funny rubber outlet. Double check roof drains !!
Yes I already inspected all the wiring. Changed out the bus bars. In the process I damaged several connectors, and spliced in good used ones. Is that ok?
I'm pretty sure I found my running rough issue. After unplugging the ESP and there was no change I decide to perform a compression check and found no compression in cylinder number one.
Yes I already inspected all the wiring. Changed out the bus bars. In the process I damaged several connectors, and spliced in good used ones. Is that ok?
I'm pretty sure I found my running rough issue. After unplugging the ESP and there was no change I decide to perform a compression check and found no compression in cylinder number one.
Yes to splicing good connectors in the bus bars.
And two thumbs up for finding a damaged Cyl. No1. For some reason these engines like to waste the cylinders nearest to their oil pump:
Such as #1+#4 or #1+#5.
Where to go from here is up to you??
Zero compression sounds like a rather extreme case.
Sometimes thicker oil helps piston rings seal but not from zero.
Leaky valves or bad pistons?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 03-15-2024 at 06:37 PM.
Apparently I bent the valves in cylinder # 1 when I first set the timing due to a spun crankshaft pulley. I will report back once I get the valves replaced and everything back together.
It's nearly good news because at least you know what is wrong and it's repairable.
How did the crank pulley get spun ??
Now you can easily index your TDC Cyl#1 and position the crank before head installation so your valves don't kiss pistons.
🤞
I'm taking it as good news because it solves the mystery. I just hope everything goes well from here. The photo describes the issue with the balancer.
Also check out this video.
03-03-2024, 06:23 PM
