Pyronaut

Does anyone know the location of the starter module/ignition control unit on a 2020 A35 (W177)? I need to remove mine and don't know where it is. I looked at a shop manual I got online but that didn't help. The closest I can find is something like the diagram below, which indicates that the module is part #4, which means it's under the touchpad. If so, how does one get to it?

I've removed the top of the hand rest and touchpad bracket before (to get to the aux battery), but I don't recall seeing the starter module down there.

CaliBenzDriver

I apologize for not having your exact answer. Usually EZS ignition is a push to start button, right?

Why do you need to replace your ignition???

Do you know how and have tools to code replacement ignition ??

Pyronaut

Yes it's a push button start. The module itself is OK. I want to remove it because it's needed for work being done to code an ECU to my car (by someone else with access to tools I don't have).

CaliBenzDriver

Well then, you know where the ignition is.


Good luck to your specialist. He's dealing with German security.


While you have EZS out, do yourself a big favor take 10mn to remove the solderless chaos factor from this device.


A friend of us around here opened my eyes to marginal connections built to raise Gremlins familes..... yours is small scale. Don't wait!

Pyronaut

I know where the ignition switch is, but not the actual module. I'm guessing it's somewhere behind there, but not exactly where. I'd rather not have to take the whole dash off to find out.

Fingers crossed.

I have no idea what you're referring to. Where can I find out more info about it?

CaliBenzDriver

The ignition key module EZS is built with unsoldered parts that develop poor connections to slow down data exchanges over CAN-Bus... no fault codes!

Have a look at the link below my signature...
Also to consider the main chassis GND Strap is located in unfavorable location under the car.

Pyronaut

I think I'm a little closer to finding it. I removed the centre console and saw this.



When I zoom in on the spot that the red arrow is pointing to, I see this.



I can only see a small portion of the part, but it looks suspiciously like the ignition module (A1679004616), as shown in the photo below.





Now the problem is how to get at that part. The vent in front of it doesn't want to come out very easily. Does anyone know how to get to it?

CaliBenzDriver

I got my ignition module out after removing my steering column on W212. It seems people also access EZS by removing COMAND...

The under dashboard plastic cover is another access route...

You are dealing with an updated chassis

Edit: same bad old loose pins still providing poor ownership experience.

CaliBenzDriver

das ist das ????

half-baked loose connector pins
​​​

OMG fixed in 10mn for free !

once the module is on the bench, no need to special order, replace or program.

In and out $3000 job for under $1.

Pyronaut

Sorry I don't see what you did there. The first picture has lots of connector pins on the module, the second one has much less, and the third picture has blue marks all over it.
Did you do some kind of soldering on the board?

Pyronaut

I also think I might have some info on how to get to the module. I found some documents that say to remove the glove box and access the module through that opening. I'll try that tomorrow and report back...

CaliBenzDriver

I was able to find the picture of the internal circuit board of your module part number.

It has two long connectors, one at each end, right?


managed quality

I zoomed the picture to show you all the connections missing reliable solders.

Once you fix this module better than new for free you may want to focus on the SCM: Steering Column Module.... it's located below steering wheel on multiple boards.


BTW now you know why disconnecting module is a lottery caused by loose internal connections. I am itching to fix my unstable ESP Module... soon great CAN-C!

The loose pin connections are engineered to provide multiple level of disfunctioning... like shades of grey.

-- SILENT FAULTS without codes: from factory they slow down CAN data exchange with busy restransmits traffic. That's already working in degraded lemon mode.

-- DISRUPTIONS with Transient codes: when modules have trouble communicating at all.

-- HARD FAULTS codes galore: when modules can't stay powered up.

On W212 this directly impacts wandering steering, tranny shifts, battery drain, goofy keylessGo, slow CAN-B randomness.
Low performance without any code.👏


Combine that with poor GND and you got a rewarding business model by design... danke.

Pyronaut

Gotcha. So you're saying that I need to pop the plastic cover off the bottom and put some solder on those pins to make the connections more reliable down the line. Is it the connections on both sides that need this, or just the one side? It seems like you only marked the connections on one side, but the pin soldering looks the same on both sides (to my untrained eye).

Also, do you have a picture of what yours looked like after making the connections more reliable? Edit: Never mind, I found some here.

Pyronaut

For anyone else who needs to find/remove this module, I was able to do it (see picture below of my unit) using the instructions in the attached PDF files. There was one tricky connector for the airbag that you need to remove while removing the glove box, and if you have trouble disconnecting it then you can check out this video of the dash removal on the W177 where they disconnect the same connector on the driver side knee airbag:

A1679004616

CaliBenzDriver

module connectors

ALL 100% unsoldered pins need reliably soldered connections.
Take a closer picture if you need jelp identify other loose pins besides L+R connectors