I am at a lost, my mom's car brakes were losing fluid, turns out lines rusted out and my step dad just kept adding fluid until I found out, i thought it was master cylinder at first because I could not find a leak so I replaced it upon bleeding the brakes I heard a gush then realized it was rusted lines in rear and down drivers side. Brought a complete set front and rear from the brake line company pre bent and car specific. Also replaced all 4 rotors pads.
After bleeding and test driving all seemed fine u til i noticed the car slowing down and smelling brake material front brakes were dragging after driven for a mile or so since the hard line replacement, master cylinder, all brakes and rotors replaced the front calipers with used ones and it did the same thing had it towed to dealer 500 bucks and not fixed said it was a twisted brake line " a lie". Had it worked on at a indy recommended front caliper on passenger side and new rotor and pads even though had new on the car i agreed and 3000 dollars later they called and said maybe the driver side too for another 1500 I declined replaced driver side myself and replaced rubber lines upfront also both sides , they still dragging you can smell and see heat smoke from the front wheels. Nothing else but abs pump left or is there not sure what else to do the car is rarely driven maybe 2000 miles since they had it 2017, but want it available if they want to drive it. No errors in carsoft any helps is appreciated.

 

You want a clear answer, right?
How about a clear question
to address your concern.

 

Ok I am sorry that I rambled on about how it started. The question is 2010 c300 4matic front brakes grabbing to the point of seeing smoke. I replaced everything in the braking system including front calipers factory, all 4 brake lines, master cylinder and bottle and cap, front and rear rotors and pads, flushed and bleed system it's better but still dragging what else could be the issue except maybe abs unit? I have no errors when scanned.
again sorry about the other stuff but some forums contributers in other places insist on full disclosure or just say use the search.

 

No worries about forum...... what you want is result and now you're overwhelmed by what you're dealing with .
Your all new brakes are grabbing and smoking despite new calipers & new hoses.

What's strange is I understand this is happening on all 4x wheels the same...

I am going to give couple pointers to finish a great job started well:
1 - don't drive with compromised brakes!

2- Clean the hub surface where rotors sit. It has to be clean to disk sit flat perpendicular to caliper bracket.

3- I assume you're dealing with floating single piston calipers. (not fixed multi-pistons). Old grease turns into glue... clean it with brake cleaner!
Use SILICONE brake lubricant on slider pins. Mind rubber thst may have swollen with petroleum grease.

4-- Show us a picture... Some calipers use a anti-rattle spring that is way too strong. It torques the calipers 90° against the pins and effectively prevent normal sliding. Pads wear out unevenly!

5-- Existing ABS. They are built to dysfunction but safely. You'd get a code to call for module repair. You have none. Let's leave it alone for now as not being primary cause.

6-- Diagnose old pads and rotors - Look at the wear marks of each pad. Looking for uneven wear.
Compare the amount of wear:
per pad
per pair of pads
per axles
front to back
or show us a picture with 4x pairs of pads on the ground front /back.

7-- show us a picture of each new installed rotor to see wear pattern.

8-- what brand and parts type do you use ?? (MB semi-metalics, Akebono ceramics,... )

9-- What useage or driving style for these brakes:
commute, city, racing,... ???

10-- Was this drag already bad with previous brakes ?

Hopefully this will get you to where you want.

 

thanks it's my mother's car i will get pictures in a day or s. Driving stay equals never they no longer drive so the car sits in the garage on a trickle charger I drive it on occasion to keep it in service in case they need it and I'm not around to drive them . They have probably put 500 miles on it since 2015, not sure if they dragged before the lines corroded I never drove it. Factory ate calipers from fcp euroand factory rotors and brakes only the fronts are dragging new grease on guide pins and the move freely, and factory caliper brackets although they are painted i will try and pull them apart again make sure the paint is not interfering with the pad holder thingies . Appreciate the things to check again number 4 is the one gor me thinking about more since carrier are painted

 

It's not all super tight... then raise each axle with a jack stands then spin each wheel to witness brake drag.
We can guess condensation rusted lines and caliper pistons therefore got stuck in place with piston rubber seal turning into chewing gum.

Good job on trickle charger

 

I have a 2010 C300 4matic. This past fall I replaced the rear section of brake line that goes to the passenger caliper. I spliced in at the drivers wheel well and replaced back to the caliper, it was around 6' of new line I used. According to the MB manual two additional connection points per line are allowable so i felt cutting and splicing was fine to do. Even the parts diagram shows the rear brake lines in two sections. Just thought id add this if anyone else reading is thinking about just replacing sections of the line and not the entire thing.

Im thinking what would I do in your position. I would jack up the front end so both front wheels are off the ground and spin freely by hand. Start the car and apply the brakes. Release the brakes then try to spin each wheel by hand to see if or how stuck they feel. If they are stuck on the calipers remove the wheels, step on the brakes again and see if you can spin the rotors, if stuck then disconnect the hard line from the flex line and see if that releases the calipers.

Imalso wondering if maybe there is an issue with the rear brakes where the fronts are doing most of the work resulting in over heating?

As noted above make sure everything is clean. My hubs were rusty and filthy so I took a wire brush to them prior to mounting the rotors back. Mercedes has a handy sheet I reference when working on the brakes which shows what to grease and what to not grease. I'll post it below. My specific front and rear calipers are the last two calipers on the 2nd page. It shows things like only grease UNDER the anti-rattle springs and not on top where the pads ride. Also in the brake section in the manual the only grease on the pins is inside the boots on the front calipers. It does not show any grease on the rears except on the brackets where the pads ride. But with new calipers i dont think they would be the issue.

 

Thanks again I did that initially all 4 up and on jack stands they all spin fine it's only after driving a few miles and braking do the fronts start to dragg, so it's got to be heat related . Scenario when you first start car up and put it in drive the transmission can make the car role even without giving it gas after a few braking sessions even tiny ones and driving out of the sub division it will not longer roll freely on its own then after driving a few miles you can feel the car slowing and having to give more gas to keep the same speed. Then you can upon getting back home see the smoke and smell it brake material, and as it cools you can hear and see the fronts slowly releasing and the car will roll a little . That's why I'm kinda leaning to your number 4 the pads and shims even tho greased on the shims and ears maybe a little tight because of the paint probably under the shims will keep you informed and with pics soon thanks again.

 

Okay went back over the entire braking system step by step removed paint from caliper brackets that hold shims cleaned and regressed with silicone brake grease, worked better for a while decided to drive it to doctors office and while on the interstate brakes gradually got worse until I pulled over then got a error message esc inoppertive, wheel speed sensor error flat tire monotor light, and triangle. I will now look Into wheel speed sensors / abs sensors. I will test them but probably just replace all four as they are not that expensive, does that seem like a logical next step. I have a autel scan tablet bio directional and a Mercedes specific scan tool will see if they recognize the error since it is now in the dash fingers crossed again.

 

4x wheel sensors can't go bad without cause.

If I understand correctly your new calipers act similarly to the previous ones.

It seems your ABS controller is having issues.

It likely needs at least controller side if not the hydraulic valves side as well - I don't know how to test your unit safely.

 

I agree all four likely not bad as I stated in the previous cry for help only the front are dragging as i can tell but only after the car is driven a few miles and they heat up, and repeatedly use the brakes. This time car was on the highway with limited braking and when driving I could feel the car slowing on its own that's when I got the error messages. I have 3 MB so I should get xentry I'm not to impressed with the icarsoft 3 that I have for diagnostics and seeing that I had to remove all the fender linners when I replaced all the brake lines when the rusted i may have missed something in the rear also thanks for the information, I hate the parts cannon but it seems cheaper than the dealer and Indy shops that i have taken it to at this point and it's still not repaired or even Diagnosed will look into the abs unit also

 

You say only front brakes get increasingly tight during normal driving. Let us see that.

Everything beside ABS is new: from Master Cylinder to lines and calipers... with same issue.

Show us picture :

• the 2x current rotors
• the old rotors for that axle.
• the old front pads

How many miles on current new brakes ??
What brand / type brakes ??

 

I took some pics but having issues getting them posted will try again when I get back in town, the brakes and rotors are brand new less than 50 to 60 miles. Old original rotors and brakes were trashed when new were installed over two years ago. As I stated the car is really never driven except to get state inspections. The brakes and rotors are from brake performance drilled and slotted with ceramic pads. The shop put on factory rotors and textar brake pads not familiar with those but seem to be ceramic.

 

You'd think the shop that replaced the profitable parts can make your brakes work else I don't see why replace everything.

 

 

Okay, problem almost solved:

Good news the disks and pads look fine.

-1- Your inner and outer PADS ARE SWITCHED around.
The pads with niples is outer position
The pads with cutout noise-pad is piston side
Right now your caliper can't squeeze anything.


this is piston-side pad (NOT OUTER!)


NIPLES denote the OUTER pad side without piston
This pad shows piston marks, mismatched

-2- that grease tube is an anti-squeak glue.
Do not use that on the slider pins. Clean the cavity with brake cleaner and use silicon brake lubricant.


use this silicone lube or better. (don't pack the hole full)

I dont know what exactly is causing ESC fault.
Let's start with a working brake pedal. ESC should notice better working pressure.... if not it maybe loaded with air from MC + calipers replaced.

Needless to remind you to pump pedal after dealing with calipers else pedal to the floor without stop.

Next deal with pad wear sensor, usually one wheel.
Next deal with noisy pads rattling... use the cheap brake grease to glue the back of outer pad to caliper!

Enjoy safer MB

 

okay will swap the pads i also have that other brake grease which is what i used initially when I replaced the brakes initially funny because when I took them apart I wondard why the grease was clear and not black like this grease also the pads were installed by the indy shop in that order i reinstalled based on the whitness markings on the pads will redo again and test thanks for the info

 

I bet your new pads are sandwiched tight in between caliper jaws.


outer pad mounted on piston/inner side

> 'SPLANATIONS:
-- To accommodate new pads + new disk
the piston has to be retracted all the way back in.

-- Now the caliper is forced to rest over niples that should fit in caliper holes on opposite side.

+++ EDIT: niples on all 4x front pads !?!?

So they nearly fit inner/outer besides cut on backing anti-noise material.
Strange to have niples on the piston pad. Caliper must have cavities for these niples.

 

I have Ferodo pads on the front. Its been so long since i replaced I forget the instructions. I looked up photos of them and they do have arrows on the two pads that also have cut outs in the backings. I looked on the Ferodo website to see what they say about it. Appears they are directional and you install per the arrow.

Since i've had the car I have either been using the Plastilube grease or I use a Silglyde silicone lube. the Silglyde I will use on any metal parts that contact rubber.

- Fronts: I only apply Plastilube under the anti-rattle springs. Every other contact point I clean with brake cleaner.
- Rear: I only apply Plastilube on the caliper brackets where the pads ride. Everything else I clean with brake cleaner. Even the caliper pins I clean and leave dry.

Those rotors are new, only 50-60 miles on them? Ive had Zimmerman rotors on mine for 4-5yrs now and they dont look as rusty.

Since they are brand new calipers are they the correct ones? I was looking around for a set of used calipers just for the Mercedes cover since mines completely worn away and I realized that the RWD calipers are different than 4matic. I doubt they are the wrong ones, just double check to make sure.

What size tires on are on the front? I ask because the manual mentions if different size tires are installed it can cause issues.

Was the tire pressure system previously working? Wonder if the batteries died in them. my Foxwell is able to read each sensor, shows the serial number and location. Can you check with your scanner?

There must be fault codes.

 

Tim's 4x brake pads show us a clear view of nipples on both inner/outer pads.



4x nipple pads + piston backing cutout

> DETAILS MATTER:
Piston pads are differentiated by a cut-up backing.
Passenger vs. driver piston-pads are different.


specific piston-side pad
I don't see nipples on thus piston-side pads (makes me believe nipples are outer side only!)


Make sure part numbers match what is necessary - Whatever caliper (genuine/upgraded) must accommodate the pads niples if present!!

 

I looked at photos of the genuine Mercedes pads and they are labeled left and right. So you can compare them to your pads for proper orientation. I'm assuming the pads with the half-circle cutouts go against the pistons, maybe designed so the pad is angled towards the leading edge.

I also noticed it appears the MB pads are stamped TRW and also FER4240 which im assuming is Ferodo. I found photos of Ferodo pads with the same markings. I just found that interesting.

Those center caps look a bit beat. Im always replacing center caps on mine either they break or they fade. Last set I got off Amazon because I wanted it quickly.

 

the MB Pads have flat rivets instead of nipples.



Who knows how well OP calipers accommodate niples or flat rivets.... INSPECT brake ASSEMBLY for clearance space with pads

 

I looked around for photos of the calipers to see if I can see if those rivets or nubs line up with the calipers. On the piston side they wouldnt hit anything due to the piston, on the other side it looks like the rivets/nubs just miss the caliper.

Photos of used calipers are 4matic. The new caliper seems to be a RWD caliper, has a smooth surface no spots to accept rivets/nubs on the pads.






​​​​​​​

 

Well still a no go brakes still dragging, replaced the abs pump controller and coded the vin with my autel. Still no errors or lights I am gonna concentrate on the rears now as there is nothing else up front to replace or adjus, seems to get worse the faster I drive even when not using the brakes, removed the rears today as they seemed to be ticking when I stopped to inspect them not the fronts. Two things I noticed was the passenger rear where the sensor is is missing the anti-rattle spring on the outside of the break pad, and also no a drip of break fluid came out of bleed screws on either side when loosened so I will start there funny because it was supposed to have been flushed and bled by the independent that worked on it when caliper was replaced. Still taking suggestions on possible fixes. Again here is a list of repairs:
Master Cylinder and reservoir
Front and rear brakes rotors and pads
All brake lines from caliper to abs unit ( from lines to go)

front left and right calipers Original equipment
Front rubber lines
Abs control unit Used but coded with correct Vin
Have a used abs pump but only used the electronics so far new spring on order ,rear on stands a spin free but they always do when they are cold . Will keep the forum up to date if I stumble onto something

 

You have 100% of the braking system replaced :

• The ABS/ESP controller
• the master cylinder
• all wheel calipers
• all flexible brake lines
• all pads/springs

yet still have poor braking !!

It's really time to put on thinking cap to inspect these brakes. Replacing good part does not help fix issues.

Eventually you will note that all brake pads normally leak rotors without abnormal dragging effect.

You finding rear calipers filled with air... points to poor service procedure.
Get a "pressure fill system" to flush out all air bubbles.