key turns but no power to start engine.
Last edited by jnash; Jun 25, 2012 at 01:38 AM.
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This switch is a theft relevant part that is married to your car. Your only option for a failed EIS is to have the dealer order you a new one and they will insist based on MBUSA policy that they also have to fit it for you. There is no other option for a EIS failure.
Although, I am not 100% sure that's what the problem is until you have had it verified. You really need to get it on STAR diagnostics and find out what if it can see the EIS or if it reports any errors with the EIS module (ignition switch). If it passes a quick test its OK.
With the ignition on, can you get the transmission out of park and into other gears? Have you checked the brake switch? It's a common failure, a cheap part and easy to change.
[EDIT] come to think of it...IF your key turns past ignition on, and into the spring-loaded Start position, the EIS has authorized the key. Otherwise it will not turn to the Start position. That doesn't rule out the EIS just yet, but that is a good sign that it's not a authorization issue within the EIS
When you solve this, please let us all know what it was - thanks
Last edited by jnash; Jun 25, 2012 at 12:33 AM.
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Are these questions pointing to a brake switch if you are able to change gears with the ignition on or are they unrelated.
I am having this issue. (no action when trying to turn over despite all electronics showing when key inserted in ignition). I am able to change gears.
Thank you for any assistance.
- Moving down the road already at full speed and all possible errors began flashing on the dash and vehicle began to struggle. I pulled over and turned the vehicle off. Since then no luck starting.
I will test the battery to rule it out for certain and post the results. In the meantime, if the additional information triggers any thoughts in anyone, please do share your inclinations or experiences.
Now that you mention you had electrical haywire during driving points more to weak battery.
Batteries that "test good" can still be too weak for a w220, it has a very very finicky electrical system and needs much more power than most cars.
Testing a battery means nothing on an s class. The only test is a fresh battery install.
Last edited by tusabes; Jul 12, 2012 at 10:45 PM.
Regardless. Gave a new battery a shot, but as suspected, no difference.
The 12V battery by itself, even new, didn't provide 13+V.
Any ideas from the community on causes outside of the battery?
- No key, no light: 12.5v
- Cranking during engine start: above 10v
- After engine start, charging, idle: 13.9v
- Charging, rev up: locked at 14v
Above reading are from MFD and multimeter.
I never get reading around 13v without charging.
Many occasions my battery got lower than 12v and restarted normal. Never has symptom of electronic issue.
My battery is few years old and at least died twice during lengthened repair process.
Jump, battery to battery, never has any issue after. I mean two points:
- Died battery, of cause not preferred, can be restored then used for quite a long time without electronic issue;
- Jump start w220, battery back to back, no problem, won't damage electronics;
fyi, I believe my battery is in good condition.
If you are using Star and you still can't communicate it's likely to be the EIS which is your ignition switch. It's a dealer install only part.
Star communicates into the EIS on a separate diagnostic wire from the Obd socket.
I'm am surprised the instrument cluster doesn't light up since it too should when you unlock the doors etc.
You can search the forums for star and ask if any member has it in your area. Or goto the dealer. Or buy it. Google it.










