After returning from the mechanic, and I now have a estimate in my hand for $3,494.59

I had taken the car in for a transmission fluid flush and to have them look at the rough shifting. They did that but told me that the rough shifting is an internal issue. Its not slipping but apparently part of the tranny isn't filling up fast enough, and as a result it builds up pressure and then abruptly shifts. He said it was ok to drive on, and to basically drive it until it gets worse... it's really not that noticeable and is only present when it hasn't warmed up yet or after sprinting around and quick braking. FWIW, it shifted as smooth as I've ever felt it on the way home today. They want $2785 to rebuild it. What I don't get is how a car with 45k miles (41k of those being driven by my typical grandma driver) has this issue...

They also found a leak with either the rear crankshaft seal or oil pan. They couldn't pin point which one. When I asked why I wasn't seeing any oil stains in my garage, they said it was because the leak is only when the system is under pressure. They want $112.50 for the crankshaft seal ONLY if I rebuild the tranny at the same time, otherwise I'd be looking at a bigger price because of all the disassembly.

Finally, they told me my lower front control arm bushings are shot, and it's rubbing on the subframe. I find this odd because I don't hear that distinctive metal on metal squeal, and also because they didn't warn me of this a couple of months ago when they replaced the ball joints. Regardless, they want $440.50 for this. I found the parts online for just over $100 if there are only two total. How hard of a job is this to do one's self? I looked under the car, doesn't seem more than pulling a couple of bolts and replacing the bushing.

Any advice? Thanks!

Advice? Leave everything alone till it gets worse (if it ever does).

Going to a mechanic, they will ALWAYS find something wrong. Doesnt mean something needs to be changed now...or ever. These parts may last the life of the car.

Your brakes are shot and you need a new transmission...what??? All I came in for was an oil change! Quote from the movie Mask with Jim Carrey. Sorry, do the seal if they remove the tranny. I would wait on the bushings especially if you don't hear anything.

I think there was a recall on that seal but not too sure, it is responsible for our cars just burning down in the driveways.

I guess my concerns, in order of priority would be the seal issue, bushings, tranny. The only time it seems to shift rough now is coming out of first and occasionally second if it hasn't warmed up yet. It acts like it just wants to drop into gear instead of smoothly shifting. I'm really not buying the seal business, there are no puddles on my floor and the oil level hasn't dropped any. As for the bushings, they do look torn but not deathly ill. I'll search for a write-up and see what i find.

That would make two cars in my garage that have a fire hazard recall. This, and our F150 with cruise control recalls.

So... is there anyway I can verify the leak without taking it to another mechanic?

Be Advised
If this guy did not hook up StAR to you car and troubleshoot your transmission run away. Hard shifting in these cars can almost always corrected by either a software change, or there is an issue with your TCM. If the word TCM never came up, then you are at the wrong place.
YEs, some people change their fluid every 50 or 60K but that's not to prevent shifting issues so I relly don't thin a fluid change is going to correct thst problem and it is certainly unlikely that you need a tranny rebuild. IF anything it would be a new valve body or as I said an issue with your TCM.

B. Take it to an indie shop or follow the diy and change your transmission fluid and filter in the 722.6 5 speed.
C.Stop going to the dealer,find a good indie shop.
D.Examine the bushings yourself.
E. Removal is easy. Take them to a shop to have them pressed in is easier.
If you fall for that quote for a rebuilt trans woe be to you, for that is only a beginning on what they will really come up with as the final bill

This is an indie, not a dealership quoting the issues.

I had those original thoughts about the valve body or TCM, should I have it retested at the dealer?

Thanks!

1. Just about every M113 based engine I've seen leaks a little from the rear main seal. This is not really a fire hazard. The oil just drips out of the bellhousing. The reason you don't see a puddle on the floor is because the under body panels collect it. Most likely you have some fairly minor seepage. I wouldn't be worried about this.

2. The bushings should be replaced. Having them rub the subframe is bad news.

3. If the tranny shifts fine, doesn't make any weird noises, or cause any other problems, leave it alone.

Well, your mechanic could be right with all the issues they raised. It is their job to inspect and report, it is up to you authorized the repairs and pay the bills. Same with doctors and every other profession.

However, if you do not feel comfortable with this mechanic, by all means get a second opinion, always a good idea.

A few years ago, we bought a used car, I took it to the Dealer to have them inspect it and take care of a few minor issues. They called back saying I need a new tranny at $4K. Got a second opinion which was the tranny is fine. The car has been performing flawlessly for 3 years now.

I think it would be well worth the 94.00. Just tell them to check because its shifting hard and they will look at everything. At least you'll know for sure whats going on there.

BTW. I prefer indy's over dealers when I need them which is hardly ever but If I do, I would only use and indy that works on late model German cars ONLY.
THere are a lot of indy's that claim to work on everything but but there are just some thing that require certain expertise. You can't usually find that expertise at your run of the mill indy shop. That's why its better to find a shop that deals more with your type of car.
THere are a few here in Austin, some are good some are not so good. Just like the two dealers here. Both are decent but one just holds your car hostage for years.
THe BMW dealer here and in San Antonio are simply pathetic ripoffs.. So I always look for an Indy shop for the X5. when I need. But its usually programming stuff that I can't do at home.
Bad thing is that their labor rate is the same. Good thing is that they spend their time focusing on fixing my problem not looking for a hundred other things to ty to charge me for. I hate that.

Thanks for all the advice. I think I'll take it to star motors in Houston sometime in the next few weeks.

I went out today determined to test it. Shifting out of first and second at 2500-3000rpms is much smoother than shifting at 1500-2500rpms. Shifting out of second or third at 4000-5000rpms can be considerably rougher, almost like a drop into the next gear about half of the time.

I also did a couple of downshifting "tests" where I coasted at 35ish mph and then proceeded to give it enough gas to cause a downshift. The first time I applied less throttle, however it seemed like it was reluctant to downshift, and when I pushed it enough to cause the downshift, it revved up around 500rpms (as if trying to revmatch) before it downshifted. This process took about 5 seconds to complete to downshift... Finally, I gave it about 1/2 to 3/4 of WOT from 35mph. That seemed to provoke the problem. In the downshifting process it seemed as if the tranny slipped before it downshifted.

So yeah something's definitely up, and it's worse now that it was before the fluid flush. My biggest confusion is why it shifts and drives perfectly smooth some days, and rough others... Could this be caused by a faulty TCM or valve body?

...I have a feeling I will be working my *** off this summer to pay for the tranny issues.

Well I guess you won't know till you have them take a look. Actually when I read what you were saying about the delaying before shifting made me think that it may even be your accelerator pedal. I had mine changed out because I though my car was shifting kinda weird that that turned out to be the culprit.
But as I said, this is why it's well worth paing the diagnostic fee for these types of issues. You still retain the option of getting it repaired where and whenever you want, but at least you KNOW what the issue really is.

all i can say is too bad you don't live up in Dallas.. too many stories about people getting jacked around while dealing directly with dealers..