S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

Change Your Plugs/Wires

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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 04:42 PM
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SL55, S500
Change Your Plugs/Wires

I guess 100k isn't really the threshold..



Took about a few hours.

The hardest part was getting the wires to snap onto the plugs as it was tight in the rear.

All my idle vibration is gone. The only way I can tell the engine is on is because the cluster is on.
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 04:46 PM
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I just did mine the other day at 108k and all the gaps were toast.. They should have been done a long time ago.. didn't replace the wires though, but I guess I am going to, everyone keeps saying how much better it is with new plugs..
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 07:50 PM
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to make it easier to get the wires on the plugs, put a dab of dielectric grease on the opening of the wire . It pretty much slides right on at that point.
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Oliverk
to make it easier to get the wires on the plugs, put a dab of dielectric grease on the opening of the wire . It pretty much slides right on at that point.
I used silicone spray. Tell me that was safe?
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Das Geld 2
I used silicone spray. Tell me that was safe?
Yeah I wouldn't have done that. As far as I know, silicone spray does not promote the conduction of electricity. It may not cause any problems, but dielectric grease is designed specifically for this kind of situation.
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Oliverk
Yeah I wouldn't have done that. As far as I know, silicone spray does not promote the conduction of electricity. It may not cause any problems, but dielectric grease is designed specifically for this kind of situation.
Thanks, noted.

I just followed this guide here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eycUkQ9T1V0

He sprayed it on the wires.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 10:44 AM
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plug gaps matter

Originally Posted by cmpcpro
I just did mine the other day at 108k and all the gaps were toast.. They should have been done a long time ago.. didn't replace the wires though, but I guess I am going to, everyone keeps saying how much better it is with new plugs..
i maintain a powerplant for a drone that has 8 plugs, i can see exhaust gas temp differentials between clyinders with as little as .004 out of tolerance. i am absolutely replacing the plugs in my car when i get back to the states. 43 days to go! so sick of the sandbox. be patient when you gap plugs and try your best to get them all as close as possible.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 06:05 PM
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Did you have check engine light on? Any codes before you replaced them? Or simply vibrations and no other problem.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by paultyk
Did you have check engine light on? Any codes before you replaced them? Or simply vibrations and no other problem.
just vibration at idle.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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Ok. I have a little vibration but only when on drive when stopped. Idling on park or neutral is fine. No other issues.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by paultyk
Ok. I have a little vibration but only when on drive when stopped. Idling on park or neutral is fine. No other issues.

What's your mileage?

Could be motor mounts, I read some people say trans mount, but why would it cause vibration...

Last edited by Das Geld 2; Jan 16, 2012 at 07:49 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by paultyk
Ok. I have a little vibration but only when on drive when stopped. Idling on park or neutral is fine. No other issues.
this is only when stopped correct? not driving
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 07:57 PM
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I have 120k. Checked mounts, looked fine not cracked or broken. Only thing possibly the age and rubber is soft. It is 2003. Your sparks did not look bad from the picture. I saw sparks with 100k on them already burned out. I have to print out service record from dealer because my sparks look like new, unless the gap is too big.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 07:57 PM
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Correct only when stopped and on drive.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 07:59 PM
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Even when shifting from drive to reverse is smooth, no bump.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by paultyk
Even when shifting from drive to reverse is smooth, no bump.
You want a true test too see if it's your mounts?

It's dangerous, but it gets the job done. Do it on an empty road or LOT.

A. Start The Car
B. Pop Your Hood and leave it up
C. Get back in your Car with the HOOD UP
D. Put the Car in D and FIRST GEAR
E. FLOOR it for a SPLIT second(jack Rabbit) and watch where the engine goes as your peer through the little gap between your hood and the windshield.

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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Das Geld 2
You want a true test too see if it's your mounts?

It's dangerous, but it gets the job done. Do it on an empty road or LOT.

A. Start The Car
B. Pop Your Hood and leave it up
C. Get back in your Car with the HOOD UP
D. Put the Car in D and FIRST GEAR
E. FLOOR it for a SPLIT second(jack Rabbit) and watch where the engine goes as your peer through the little gap between your hood and the windshield.

An easier way is to just go outside pop the hood and while your foot is on the brake get the car some gas and see if the motor is solid, or trys to come uip out of the compartment.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 10:09 AM
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It actually worked engine popped out!
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 01:47 PM
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I talked to the mechanic at the dealership and was told to replace trans mount, even when it looks good rubber deteriorate and lower trans, and then vibrations may appear. It is the cheapest option since no other visual or electrical problems appear.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by paultyk
It actually worked engine popped out!
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 04:05 PM
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Do it in reverse and forward. Engine twists in opposite directions.
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