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Here's my 1st love on the MB brand. My daughter drives it now. Gave it to her last year when she totaled her own ML500 as she wanted another ML500. She thinks the S is too big.
Any way, she added 15k miles within a year.
On my S600, I spent about $2500 after acquired it to make it a daily driver: Eurocharged tunes, tandem pump, radiator, lower struts, plugs and filters, auto trunk operation,...
It's still have random #7 misfire on idle mode that I haven't able to eliminate. I can avoid #7 misfire by listening to the way it starts: if hesitation on start then shut it off and restart.
I'm stubborn and haven't take it in for a diagnostic yet.
Here's my 1st love on the MB brand. My daughter drives it now. Gave it to her last year when she totaled her own ML500 as she wanted another ML500. She thinks the S is too big.
Any way, she added 15k miles within a year. Attachment 358277Attachment 358276
On my S600, I spent about $2500 after acquired it to make it a daily driver: Eurocharged tunes, tandem pump, radiator, lower struts, plugs and filters, auto trunk operation,...
It's still have random #7 misfire on idle mode that I haven't able to eliminate. I can avoid #7 misfire by listening to the way it starts: if hesitation on start then shut it off and restart.
I'm stubborn and haven't take it in for a diagnostic yet.
Only when it's started hot? There's a bulletin for that, misfires on the front cyls. New fuel pump and controller fixed it for me, raises the pressures, stops the fuel boiling that causes the rough idle on hot start.
Normally it turned over right away but some times it takes ~15sec before turning over. If I don't turn it off and restart then I will see #7 misfire whenever I went into an idle mode for more than 1min.
I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter but not the controller as I have the latest 5bar unit.
The misfire intensified when I replaced the dirty K&N engine filter for OEM filter which is strange...
The radiator job isn't too bad. I went with a eBay after market $52 radiator and it had been ok so far. Because of unknown name, I have been monitoring antifreeze and transmission fluid levels very closely.
If I am going to do it again I would go with OEM.
The radiator job isn't too bad. I went with a eBay after market $52 radiator and it had been ok so far. Because of unknown name, I have been monitoring antifreeze and transmission fluid levels very closely.
If I am going to do it again I would go with OEM.
Any tips on how to do the radiator out/in would be appreciated. Didn't see anything on Youtube.
Any tips on how to do the radiator out/in would be appreciated. Didn't see anything on Youtube.
Removing the W220 radiator is surprisingly difficult because of all the plastic shrouds, and the V12TT is more difficult again because of the IC pump and ABC cooling. Here's how I did it:
Before doing anything, inspect the new radiator and make sure it’s to spec; this is really important.
Make sure the outside diameter of the hose receptacle is 41.0 to 41.5 mm.
Make sure you have threaded receptacles for the fan cowl, IC HE, IC pump, AC HE and AC pipe fittings.
When you remove the old radiator, some of those fittings may be rusted up – test them first, and figure out what you’re going to do.
There are rubber & plastic mouldings all around the radiator to control airflow, and they take time to remove & refit.
Establish whether your header tank fills to the RH header tank, or the bottom hose.
The new radiator may have a ¾” filler hose receptacle that may need to be blocked off – which can make fitting more difficult.
Get yourself some good lights, and get to work….
Lift the front end of the car onto stands and remove the top and bottom covers.
Loosen the header tank cap and drain the cooling system. This takes a while.
Remove the thermostat/top hose housing and disconnect all the hoses (expect spills).
Disconnect the electric fan.
Remove the small clips that hold the top of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
Remove the two clips that hold the bottom of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
Undo the two transmission oil cooler pipes (top one first!), catch a bit of oil, and cover the pipe ends.
Undo the two nuts at the top corners of the fan cowl.
Pull the fan assy up an inch, tilt it back and pull it out upwards (pushing the IC pipes out of the way).
From underneath, undo the IC pump and its bracket from the radiator.
Still underneath, remove the bolt that holds the aircon pipes bracket to the radiator.
Unbolt the top L&R of the aircon condenser from the radiator.
Unbolt the IC heat exchanger from the radiator, and support it.
Undo the plastic clamps that hold the top of the radiator.
Push the top of the radiator back and remove the bleed pipe.
Remove the plastic brackets that are clipped half-way up each side of the radiator.
Lift the radiator out.
Lifting the radiator out is unsurprisingly more difficult than it sounds, as it’s a tight fit width-wise between the chassis rails. On my car there were three steering and suspension oil coolant pipes that squeeze through an aperture alongside the radiator. The aperture is sealed-up with a triangular rubber grommet, which best pulled forwards out of the way of the radiator. The pipes then need to be manipulated so they’re flat against the chassis rail, and give as much room for the radiator as possible.
Now is the time to replace the anti-freeze, the thermostat, the thermostat housing o-ring, the hose connector o-rings, and the hoses and aux drive belt if you feel like it.
Refitting is the reverse of removal, but:
Check that the top hose assy fits both radiator receptacles before fitting the radiator (ask me why).
Tape sheets of corrugated card to the front and rear faces of the new radiator, otherwise you’ll make a horrible mess during fitting.
Make sure the aircon condenser is in about the right position before you push the new radiator forwards into position.
Imperative to make sure all the small hoses and cables are tied away from the moving parts, like the fan, the ancillaries and the aux belt.
The cooling system bleeds itself, but only when the engine is fully warmed-up, and you need patience.
"Check that the top hose assy fits both radiator receptacles before fitting the radiator (ask me why)."
Now I'm curious, Nick. Why?
I once bought a radiator where the radiator receptacles were a fraction of a mm too large in diameter for the hose receptacles to fit.
It took me ages to figure out what was going on, and more time to put it right. I thought I was just being weak, being unable to re-fit the quick-fit connectors. I wouldn't want it to happen to anyone else.
This happened to me too and I thought it was just the low price aftermarket brand. Here's my trick for fitting it with ease: I parked the Escalade in front of the S600 then use the ratchet strap to pull the hose connector toward the Escalade. How did you do it?
This happened to me too and I thought it was just the low price aftermarket brand. Here's my trick for fitting it with ease: I parked the Escalade in front of the S600 then use the ratchet strap to pull the hose connector toward the Escalade. How did you do it?
No - my first rad really didn't fit. The male receptacle was larger than the female receptacle.
I had remove the radiator, return it, and get another one.
wow was this at a Mercedes dealer or independent shop?
my Mercedes dealer "recommended " $20,000 of suggested work in my car that ran perfectly . I declined it all and it still runs perfectly . If yours stranded you multiple times what were the issues ?
My S600 had all of its repairs done at the selling dealer for the first 21 months, then I switched to a local foreign car repair shop that has an excellent reputation.
The problems that left me stranded were always electrical/electronic. I documented all of this in a 24-page letter on June 20 to Mr. Exler in Atlanta. I have not had any response to date. Here are a few excerpts of some of my frustrations from the history of this car:
March 27, 2015 22:30 Dash module quits operating on I-465 by Indianapolis.
March 28 and 29, 2015 S600 quits a few times in traffic. Always starts right up. Trunk would not always open or close with fob or buttons.
March 30, 2015 13:30 Carlton Motorcars, Inc. in Greenville, SC. Checked dash module, found out it had a ten-year extended warranty that expired in February. This 2006 automobile was put into service in February, 2005.
May 26, 2015 18:04 S600 dies at traffic light in inside lane during heavy traffic at North Knoxville Avenue and Byrd Lane in Peoria. Will not start for 45 minutes.
May 26, 2015 20:30 Radio starts coming on and going off by itself while car is parked.
March 14, 2016 20:20 S600 will not start at Washington Walmart for ten minutes.
20:35 S600 dies at traffic light at U.S. Route 24 and Washington Blacktop. Will not start for 50 minutes.
April 18, 2016 15:00 S600 to Sullivan-Parkhill (dealer).
April 26, 2016 23:40 Pick up S600 at Sullivan-Parkhill. They were unable to duplicate the failures. No charge.
August 27, 2016 18:15 S600 dies in traffic. Starts right up.
19:35 S600 dies again. Won’t start for 45 minutes.
September 3, 2016 8:30 S600 will not start at the end of the car wash conveyor in Richmond, Indiana. Fortunately I was able to coast into the street to get out of the way of car behind me. Finally starts around 9:10 after explaining to the local police why it was sitting in the middle of their road.
September 9, 2016 11:10 S600 will not start after a short stop at the Secretary of State’s Office.
October 31, 2016 12:30 The “Possessed S600” is dropped off at Kauth & Mayeur. I complain about stalling when anyone sits in the front passenger seat, the cooling fan may not be operating correctly, the check engine light is on again, and drips on the garage floor again.
November 16, 2016 8:15 Pick up S600 at Kauth & Mayeur. A bad pin had been found in a wiring harness going from the back of the car along the passenger side. When the right conditions were present, a person sitting in the passenger seat would move the harness, causing the pin to short out and the engine to stop. This was repeatable until the connection was repaired.
January 1, 2017 8:30 S600 dies west of Delphi, Indiana on U.S. 421. 20 degrees. Doesn’t start for an hour. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
This is just a small part of the list of events with this automobile. They are running out of components to replace. The only repair that has lasted was to the faulty connector on the passenger side near the front seat.
MAINTAINANCE:
Air filters: $80
Fuel Filter w/ install: $140
4 Rear tires: $900
About to take it in for new brakes on all 4 corners: $$$$
4 Oil changes $ 600
I know I'm missing things, but that's it in a nutshell...not to mention the HOURS spent under the hood on my own trying to diagnose and DIY.
My third w220 S55. This blk/blk 2005 I got in November 2016 for 10k at 110k miles cost me roughly 10k and the mileage has gone up to 112k LOL.
The big woes - mostly PSE pump (and still a problem since I bought); ABC rear. Everything else is minor but adds up like electronics, a/c compressor, small marker bulbs to both headlight issues.
Purchased 02 S500 in 2010 with 97k for 6k. Within two months, ABC pump, one rear shock 4600.00,
now 174k miles, only the TPS was replaced (3) times,
first two times within a week, then I realized, Auto Zone and O'Really's quality (for TPS) is less than. Installed myself X3, part 70.00. Oil change every 3k miles Mobil 1 0/40. I'm sick like that. Wipers/brakes/wheels don't count so I won't mention.
I did sit in the drivers seat with a screw driver in my back pocket, seat lost, purchased 02 S600 for seat, 1,700, sold everything else in eBay +4600.00, and still selling. May need to replace accumulator. Total cost, just time really, all things considered, I can only complain about the cost of fuel.
06 S500. 324,000 miles. Total cost of repairs at dealer from January 2013 to now was about $60,000. That includes everything from oil changes to tires to brakes, etc. The three big ticket items were a complete rebuild of the engine and all of the peripherals using all new parts. A new transmission. New Airmatic suspension system, including all four struts/shocks and pump.
06 S500. 324,000 miles. Total cost of repairs at dealer from January 2013 to now was about $60,000. That includes everything from oil changes to tires to brakes, etc. The three big ticket items were a complete rebuild of the engine and all of the peripherals using all new parts. A new transmission. New Airmatic suspension system, including all four struts/shocks and pump.
wow $60,000 just since 2013?
how many miles did it have in 2013?
Here is the list of non-routine items over the last 100,000 miles. I should have dumped the car at 240,000 miles.
18-Jul-13, 241,612 miles: Air conditioner compressor $1,462
21-Feb-14, 253,492: Rear flex disc $329, transmission connector $230
4-Aug-14, 261,026: A/C duo valve $736, motor mounts $1,327
1-May-15, 274,104: Ignition $1,560, engine $13870
7-May-15, 274,434: Trans speed sensor $350, front seat switch $330
22-Jun-15, 277,622: Door lock $146, purge valve $454
14-Mar-16, 288,308: Transmission $6,616, left inner tie rod $140
30-Aug-16: Tightener pulley $139
11-Jul-17, 308,516: Transverse control arm $800, headlamp $791, axle boot $664
18-Feb-18, 316,612: Side mirror repair $226, heater valve $498
1-Jun-18, 324,000: Air struts and compressor $8,000, trunk latch $950, tie rod $500, A/C valve $800
Total $41k
Please don't click on any hyperlinks. I don't know why the editing function inserts them. I try to delete them, but they keep linking to eBay ads. ugh.
2001 S500 AMG--well, she just cost me about $320. The tensioner pulley let go and I had a bit of over-heating. Replaced the serpentine belt (with a Gates), pulley (don't ask... lol), and the heater core connector at the firewall...
2005 S55 AMG. Bought it in April 2018 with 85,000 miles. Nothing too crazy and I expected to do a lot of maintenance related work shortly after purchase. Still haven't actually changed the plugs or done the oil yet. Perhaps this weekend.
So far I've spent $1,145 on the following:
Upper Radiator Hose
Radiator Brackets
Fan Assembly
K&N Air Filters
Spark Plugs
Windshield Wipers
Hood Latch Spring
10L Pentosin
2 Accumulators
Fuel Filter
ABC Filter
I bought a 2005 S430 4Matic in 2009, immaculate body/interior for $19k, which was about $5-6000 under book. Inspection by MB shop indicated it needed idler pulley and belt so I did that plus the B-service for $620. Other problems noted were faulty child seat sensor (figured if I needed that I had bigger problems!!), and RH lower control arm had slight play. Six months later I replaced plugs and a faulty headlight - $400. Then I did an "upgrade" with new Michelin's and Mandrus wheels for a total of $2000. Then insurance replaced the windshield - $726 but not my pocket! No problems for two years except the occasional oil/filter change, typically $140 with full synth. Then the proverbial brown stuff hit the fan. RH rear corner sagged, took it to an independent MB service, prognosis was a faulty air strut. That cost me $1100. A few days later the rear was sagging again. Took it back, new diagnosis was faulty air strut control valve which cost me another $750. Was the air strut faulty or was it the control valve? Was it both? Of course they argued that it was both and they had me over the barrel. That was a bitter experience. Over the next two years I had the rotors and pads replaced ($860) then the front driveshaft ($1350) which I thought was high. Could they cut me some slack on the cost? Not a chance.
Then, about a year and a half ago I began to experience an occasional "clunk" when I entered the driveway. Took it in for a look and it was really bad news. The car needed upper and lower control arms on both sides replaced! Their estimate - $3822.00!. Holy Crap! That was approximately half what the car was worth. Could I even sell it? Then it occurred to me that had I replaced the lower control arm when I first purchased the car I probably wouldn't have a problem now. My bad. Since I felt I got burnt on the air strut and driveshaft issues I decided to get a second opinion. Result, second place estimated $2900 but also suggested that I bring it in for an inspection. Their diagnosis was that only three of the control arms needed replacing (one was bad, two others had slight play) so it would only cost me $2030 (they gave me a 10% discount because I'm so good looking!). That's a savings of $1800!!!!! (Hint - Always get a second opinion!)
Turns out that I also needed the air strut pump replaced so they did that - $530. I don't drive the car that much so by some standards it's been quite expensive to maintain but it's still in immaculate condition and it's sell-able which I probably will do sometime next year (and look for a newer S500). And frankly if I had done the control arm back in 2009 PLUS gotten second opinions on all the major work I probably would have saved three or four thousand.
07-05-2017, 07:06 PM
:/ 
