2003 S600 Transmission Fluid Change
From what I've seen, a lot of people are using the Shell ATF134, but that's for 500s and 430s. Is it the same for the 600?
I'm also having difficulties finding the capacity of the trans/pan. How many liters does it take? I've seen 7 liter and 9.3 liter.
RockAutoParts has never done me wrong and according to them, I can use:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....431943&jsn=378
And I believe this is the kit I will need for the filter/seal?
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....431943&jsn=413
Thanks in advance!
UPDATE:
I think I might end up going with this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ARTVQ68T2XZN3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A3D9I70CHHIHSF
But I still don't know how much to get.
Last edited by PhazonPhobe; Aug 7, 2016 at 03:44 PM.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-...allon/15125768
Anyone have any experience with the VML?

Thanks Alex, that is the general consensus. However, a fluid exchange is the more acceptable procedure rather than using a machine to force fluid through the transmission with chemicals, ie flush. What some do is a gradual fluid change by dilution. That is to say, drain the trans, then drop the pan to change the filter and gasket, reassemble and re-fill with the same amount of fluid that was drained out, (approximately 3 1/2 Qts.). Remember, you do need a dip stick to top it out correctly after it is warmed up. Drive the car for a few weeks then next time only drain and replace the fluid removed. Do this 1 more time then consensus says you will have 85-90% new fluid. This is the procedure I used on my S430 with the 722.6 trans. I did this at about 117k. No problems so far, (137K now).
On my R230 I did a complete fluid exchange at 107k using this procedure. I believe your S600 radiator is setup the same as mine so you could basically follow my write up. Read through the following comments posted for more information.
As to the fluid, there are varying opinions on using Max Life fluid. Some are willing to use it while others prefer the safe route which is to choose from the recommended fluids on the MB Bevo 236.14 sheet. I used the approved Fuchs 4134 feeling that the extra cost for a one time fluid change during my ownership was worth the peace of mind.
I also recommend changing out the adapter plug while you are at it even if it is not leaking. That is a know issue and again, peace of mind.
I am attaching a couple of PDF's to look at including the WIS instructions.
Good luck,
Bob
( you will need 14 Qts of which ever fluid you choose.)
Last edited by mercy-me; Aug 7, 2016 at 07:03 PM. Reason: Add clarity
Thanks Alex, that is the general consensus. However, a fluid exchange is the more acceptable procedure rather than using a machine to force fluid through the transmission with chemicals, ie flush. What some do is a gradual fluid change by dilution. That is to say, drain the trans, then drop the pan to change the filter and gasket, reassemble and re-fill with the same amount of fluid that was drained out, (approximately 3 1/2 Qts.). Remember, you do need a dip stick to top it out correctly after it is warmed up. Drive the car for a few weeks then next time only drain and replace the fluid removed. Do this 1 more time then consensus says you will have 85-90% new fluid. This is the procedure I used on my S430 with the 722.6 trans. I did this at about 117k. No problems so far, (137K now).
On my R230 I did a complete fluid exchange at 107k using this procedure. I believe your S600 radiator is setup the same as mine so you could basically follow my write up. Read through the following comments posted for more information.
As to the fluid, there are varying opinions on using Max Life fluid. Some are willing to use it while others prefer the safe route which is to choose from the recommended fluids on the MB Bevo 236.14 sheet. I used the approved Fuchs 4134 feeling that the extra cost for a one time fluid change during my ownership was worth the peace of mind.
I also recommend changing out the adapter plug while you are at it even if it is not leaking. That is a know issue and again, peace of mind.
I am attaching a couple of PDF's to look at including the WIS instructions.
Good luck,
Bob
( you will need 14 Qts of which ever fluid you choose.)
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Thanks Alex, that is the general consensus. However, a fluid exchange is the more acceptable procedure rather than using a machine to force fluid through the transmission with chemicals, ie flush. What some do is a gradual fluid change by dilution. That is to say, drain the trans, then drop the pan to change the filter and gasket, reassemble and re-fill with the same amount of fluid that was drained out, (approximately 3 1/2 Qts.). Remember, you do need a dip stick to top it out correctly after it is warmed up. Drive the car for a few weeks then next time only drain and replace the fluid removed. Do this 1 more time then consensus says you will have 85-90% new fluid. This is the procedure I used on my S430 with the 722.6 trans. I did this at about 117k. No problems so far, (137K now).
On my R230 I did a complete fluid exchange at 107k using this procedure. I believe your S600 radiator is setup the same as mine so you could basically follow my write up. Read through the following comments posted for more information.
As to the fluid, there are varying opinions on using Max Life fluid. Some are willing to use it while others prefer the safe route which is to choose from the recommended fluids on the MB Bevo 236.14 sheet. I used the approved Fuchs 4134 feeling that the extra cost for a one time fluid change during my ownership was worth the peace of mind.
I also recommend changing out the adapter plug while you are at it even if it is not leaking. That is a know issue and again, peace of mind.
I am attaching a couple of PDF's to look at including the WIS instructions.
Good luck,
Bob
( you will need 14 Qts of which ever fluid you choose.)
That link is pretty much what I do and what I would recommend. Let the car pump out the old while you pump in the new. The drain/refill a few times is easier but it takes longer and uses more fluid to get a full renew.
At 100k miles I would consider replacing the conductor plate as preventive maintenance along with a new filter and electric connector. I also like to replace the trans pan bolts. They have an amazingly low torque spec and if you re-use the old bolts at that spec, the pan will leak. They also strip out really easily if you overtighten. New bolts are cheap insurance.
I only use MB fluid. It's really not that expensive considering this is a one time job.
When checking level, make sure the trans fluid is at the right temp. It's amazing just how much the dipstick level will change over 10C change in temp.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
At 100k miles I would consider replacing the conductor plate as preventive maintenance along with a new filter and electric connector. I also like to replace the trans pan bolts. They have an amazingly low torque spec and if you re-use the old bolts at that spec, the pan will leak. They also strip out really easily if you overtighten. New bolts are cheap insurance.
I only use MB fluid. It's really not that expensive considering this is a one time job.
When checking level, make sure the trans fluid is at the right temp. It's amazing just how much the dipstick level will change over 10C change in temp.
Have you ever had a transmission fail after an oil change?
There are lots of anecdotes about how this has happened, but how much damage can clean oil do?
Thanks, Nick

I've never had any issues afterwards. I've heard lots of stories over the years of people who have flushed their transmission only to have it fail almost immediately. I've never seen it in person, on any car. Anyone who has a tranny fail after a flush was going to have the transmission fail without the flush as well. Just my opinion. Until I see it myself, I don't believe it.
It's important to realize that all you're doing is exchanging the fluid through the cooler line. No flushing, no machine. Just the transmission's own pump.
You'll need a bit more fluid than the transmission can hold, because there will be some mixing in the pan and through the valve body and servos. 14 QTS is a good start.
When the fluid coming out of the transmission changes from dark to nice and clear, you've got most of it...much like your first ABC fluid exchange...and you are changing your ABC fluid, aren't you?
It's important to realize that all you're doing is exchanging the fluid through the cooler line. No flushing, no machine. Just the transmission's own pump.
You'll need a bit more fluid than the transmission can hold, because there will be some mixing in the pan and through the valve body and servos. 14 QTS is a good start.
When the fluid coming out of the transmission changes from dark to nice and clear, you've got most of it...much like your first ABC fluid exchange...and you are changing your ABC fluid, aren't you?
How much fluid should I get exactly? I'm pretty set on the VML because I would do it again in probably 40-50k with the way I drive it. I was planning on getting 3 gallons.
I was thinking 14 would be good, but just found this kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...osin-722-6fck2
A good price for what you get.
Amazon also sells 5L jugs for $42 with free prime shipping.
This is all that I ordered from Amazon. I plan on picking up the Valvoline tomorrow at Walmart.
ABC problem happened shortly after I purchased it too =/
The '04 I had a while ago, the previous owner had just put $4k into the ABC system before I bought it. Unfortunately the dealer I bought the '03 from didn't.
I have a 2000 ml320 with 200,000 very hard miles on it and an 2003 s600 with 120,000 miles and many of them hot rodding it.
I been very happy with the product.










