Russ Ward

I'm losing my mind over this! I need to replace the condenser on my 2004 MB S-430 and to do that, I need to "remove" the radiator. I've followed the steps in the WIS manual, but the radiator seems to still be rock solid attached. I don't want to force it since the side tanks are plastic. As I said, my goal is to replace my condenser, so I'd like to just loosen the radiator with hoses connected (but not secured) so that I can just waggle the condenser out.

First, is this a possible way to remove the condenser?
Second, how in Hades do get the radiator loose?

BTW, I've searched this forum and others to no avail. I've seen the very nice thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...l500-s500.html , but it still doesn't address my issue, also https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ator-s500.html .

I sure hope someone can help since I've been trying to remove the radiator for about a week now, on and off....

Thanks, Russ

Plutoe

post your VIN if you want help!!

Welwynnick

Removing the W220 radiator is surprisingly difficult. Here's how I did it:

Before doing anything, inspect the new radiator and make sure it’s to spec; this is really important.

• Make sure the outside diameter of the hose receptacle is 41.0 to 41.5 mm.
• Make sure you have threaded receptacles for the fan cowl, IC HE, IC pump, AC HE and AC pipe fittings.
• When you remove the old radiator, some of those fittings may be rusted up – test them first, and figure out what you’re going to do.
• There are rubber & plastic mouldings all around the radiator to control airflow, and they take time to remove & refit.
• Establish whether your header tank fills to the RH header tank, or the bottom hose.
• The new radiator may have a ¾” filler hose receptacle that may need to be blocked off – which can make fitting more difficult.

Get yourself some good lights, and get to work….

• Lift the front end of the car onto stands and remove the top and bottom covers.
• Loosen the header tank cap and drain the cooling system. This takes a while.
• Remove the thermostat/top hose housing and disconnect all the hoses (expect spills).
• Disconnect the electric fan.
• Remove the small clips that hold the top of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
• Remove the two clips that hold the bottom of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
• Undo the two transmission oil cooler pipes, catch a bit of oil, and cover the pipe ends.
• Undo the two nuts at the top corners of the fan cowl.
• Pull the fan assy up an inch, tilt it back and pull it out upwards (pushing the IC pipes out of the way).
• From underneath, undo the IC pump and its bracket from the radiator.
• Still underneath, remove the bolt that holds the aircon pipes bracket to the radiator.
• Unbolt the top L&R of the aircon condenser from the radiator.
• Unbolt the IC heat exchanger from the radiator, and support it.
• Undo the plastic clamps that hold the top of the radiator.
• Push the top of the radiator back and remove the bleed pipe.
• Remove the plastic brackets that are clipped half-way up each side of the radiator.
• Lift the radiator out.

Lifting the radiator out is unsurprisingly more difficult than it sounds, as it’s a tight fit width-wise between the chassis rails. On my car there were three steering and suspension oil coolant pipes that squeeze through an aperture alongside the radiator. The aperture is sealed-up with a triangular rubber grommet, which best pulled forwards out of the way of the radiator. The pipes then need to be manipulated so they’re flat against the chassis rail, and give as much room for the radiator as possible.

Now is the time to replace the anti-freeze, the thermostat, the thermostat housing o-ring, the hose connector o-rings, and the hoses and aux drive belt if you feel like it.

Refitting is the reverse of removal, but:

• Check that the top hose assy fits both radiator receptacles before fitting the radiator (ask me why).
• Tape sheets of corrugated card to the front and rear facesof the new radiator, otherwise you’ll make a horrible mess during fitting.
• Make sure the aircon condenser is in about the right position before you push the new radiator forwards into position.
• Make sure all the small hoses and cables are tied away from the moving parts, like the ancillaries and the aux belt.
• The cooling system bleeds itself, but only when the engine is fully warmed-up, and you need patience.

If you’re prepared, it should take about a day.

Russ Ward

I've got a 2004 MB S430 Basic
VIN: WDBNG70J64A412537

I have the fan shroud out.
The radiator is drained.
The large heater hose on the driver's side is disconnected.
The AC block for the condenser is disconnected.
ALL other lines and hoses are still connected but loose and flexible.
ALL other bolts and brackets mentioned in the WIS procedure for removing the radiator, as far as I can tell, are removed.

My goal is to dislodge the radiator enough to remove the condenser, if it is possible! My cooling system is fine. My AC compressor died, so in addition to replacing it, the dryer and expansion valve, I want to replace the condenser.

Thanks!
Russ

Russ Ward

That's quite a complete write up. Thanks!!!

I've already done most of that, but without disconnecting PS and tranny lines.

So now, my questions are:
1. What's the "IC pump" and "IC heat exchanger"?
2. Can you address more specifically "the plastic brackets that are clipped half-way up each side of the radiator"?

Again, my cooling system is fine and I do NOT want to replace my radiator. My AC compressor failed and in flushing the AC condenser, there was a bit of resistance and too many metal particles for my comfort level, so I want to replace the AC condenser also.

3. My main questions is: Can I loosen and dislodge the radiator enough, with the power steering and transmission lines still connected (line not secured), such that I can waggle the AC condenser out for replacement?

Thanks, Russ

Welwynnick

1. IC pump and HE are for turbos only, so disregard.
2. The rad is tightly wrapped in annoying plastic airflow ducts that really get in the way. They're awkward to deal with. If you're not removing the radiator, you may be able to leave them in place. I can't offer much direct guidance other than to say allow plenty of time to deal with them your own way. They're a pain.
3. I would disconnect the transmission lines - top first - its not difficult. I was wary the first time.
Where do your PAS line go? Mine are connected to a small HE on the top of the condenser itself.


Nick

e500slr

When you come back to replace the transmission oil lines, where do you replace the fluid lost and how do you know how much to put?

Welwynnick

You don't lose any fluid. As long as you just undo the top connector, air goes in rather than fluid comes out. That's because it's the highest point in the circuit. Just make sure to protect the ends from dirt and water.

Nick

Edit: There is no need to bleed. The air is pushed through by the fluid when the engine starts, and it all drains into the transmission sump. Just make sure you only undo the upper cooler connection, and keep dirt out.

e500slr

So do you have to bleed it if air goes in?

wallyp

No. The lines are for the transmission cooler. There is a relatively small, low-pressure flow from a bleed off of the transmission pump circuit to the cooler tank inside the radiator tank thru one line, and from the cooler back to an otherwise-nonfunctional dump into the transmission. The flow does nothing except moderate the temperature of the ATF.

On the W220, there is a tube (perhaps 3/4") sticking up on the right side (remember, always in relation to sitting in the driver's seat) of the engine, near the rear. It will have a red plastic cap over the end of the tube - you have to break a tab the first time you take the cap off. You check ATF level, and add only the approved fluid thru this tube. MB does not make, nor supply, a normal transmission dipstick. Instead, you buy a tool, which is a 1220mm flexible steel rod with a handle on one end and a flat indicator plate on the other. You do not leave the tool in the tube during normal operation. The process for checking the fluid is done in a very precise way, ensuring correctly controlled conditions. You can buy the tool rather cheaply.
https://www.ebay.com/i/252489469209?chn=ps

The most economical approved fluid that I found was Shell ATF 134 (MB Sheet 236.14 Approval) .