2003 S600 .... Engine out
#77
Senior Member
Thread Starter
This is pump I ordered. It needed a mounting braket from a S500/430. My buddy had one at his shop. I think more expensive options come with the braket.
#80
Yes, it would be very nice to all abc owners to explain exactly how to do the tandem pump conversion. My abc is about to fail too: the pump is making very nasty noises, constant red abc message, car rides like a tuna boat, stuck on the highest setting, pulls to the right while driving because of bad ride height.
Also, did you do the yellow speed conversion yet on your s55? How did it go?
Also, did you do the yellow speed conversion yet on your s55? How did it go?
#81
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yea, the swap is 100 percent complete. Went awesome. I end up completing it in 3 different stages over a month. First installed coil-overs and front sway. Second swapped tandem pump with S500/430. Third install rear-sway. I am really happy with the car. I went with the yellow speed coil-overs, In hind sight I ended up finding a company called cieka that basically offers the same strut but you have a bit more options on the valving and spring rates and they offer a rubber top mount and pillow ball mounts. I drove the car with no sway bars, just front and both front and rear. No sways is a joke, the car will bounce around with the shocks not set to the stiffest damping and the ride sucks. Front sway only was really good. Allowed me to loosen up front damping substantially and the red quality improved. I push the car pretty hard with just the front sway and it was fine. It honestly felt like i had more grip compared to the ABC, or the ABC just doesn't give you the same confidence. With front and rear sways, its perfect. Its just like normal sport car. Reminds me of my old e34 540i with coil-overs. The rear dampening just seems hard to get right, another thing to note is the coiler will really expose any wear in the rear suspension components. If there is any specific question you have or a didn't answer let me know! I have 3 cars with ABC, I plan on swapping my S65 to coil-over if I blow a ABC line/pump dies/etc.
#82
Thanks for all that information! I'm surprised it went that well, and how it even turned out better than the ABC! I'm relieved to hear that the coilovers with just front sways bars was really good. Adding rear sway bars just seems too big a task for me, so I'm glad that I can go with just the front ones without too big of a difference.
Is this the alternative Cieka coilevers you are talking about?:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CEIKA-Type-1...RWdKmP&vxp=mtr
In terms of what brand coilovers to get, I feel like its safer to go with yellow speed because a few people in this forum, including you, have gotten it and things have been pretty positive so far with it. But, if these cieka coilovers prove to be better than the rest somehow and as long as they are guaranteed to be great quality, I won't mind risking giving it a shot for the sake of the forum.
For the p/s pump, should I get a used OEM one, remanufactured, or aftermarket? Is the one you linked earlier a good quality aftermarket replacement? Do I just reroute the hydraulic hoses for the p/s side of the tandem pump to the new non tandem pump and leave the abc hoses tied off somewhere?
Did you leave all the vestigial ABC components in place (lines, accumulators, valve blocks, reservoir, etc.)?
Is this the alternative Cieka coilevers you are talking about?:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CEIKA-Type-1...RWdKmP&vxp=mtr
In terms of what brand coilovers to get, I feel like its safer to go with yellow speed because a few people in this forum, including you, have gotten it and things have been pretty positive so far with it. But, if these cieka coilovers prove to be better than the rest somehow and as long as they are guaranteed to be great quality, I won't mind risking giving it a shot for the sake of the forum.
For the p/s pump, should I get a used OEM one, remanufactured, or aftermarket? Is the one you linked earlier a good quality aftermarket replacement? Do I just reroute the hydraulic hoses for the p/s side of the tandem pump to the new non tandem pump and leave the abc hoses tied off somewhere?
Did you leave all the vestigial ABC components in place (lines, accumulators, valve blocks, reservoir, etc.)?
#83
Super Member
#84
Super Member
I did some research on the mount points between PS and tandem pumps for the V12. The 2 mount points at the side of the engine are exactly the same.
So that appears to be a non-issue.
Unfortunately, I can't find a pulley that would work for V12. I need a pulley for PS pump that would take 7ribs serpentine belt.
So that appears to be a non-issue.
Unfortunately, I can't find a pulley that would work for V12. I need a pulley for PS pump that would take 7ribs serpentine belt.
#86
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I took all of the ABC stuff out. I have two other cars with ABC functioning so I put the parts on the shelf! You have to remove the front abc lines and pulsation damper assembly to mount the sway bar.
http://ceikaperformance.com
I am going to order a set of these just see which I like more. I am trying to solve this issue!
http://ceikaperformance.com
I am going to order a set of these just see which I like more. I am trying to solve this issue!
#87
The ceika coilovers seem to be highly customizable and generally has more to offer than the yellow speed coilovers. I'm probably going to get them, but it is a bit risky since there are no known cases of other members on this forum installing them or having any experience with them.
Also, if the abc fails, is it a good idea to keep driving it while it is slammed on the floor (until i get the coilovers)? Or does it scrape everywhere to the point where it's undrivable? I've never heard of anyone driving the car with a failed abc, and since I'm getting rid of the whole system anyways, I might as well experiment with it and give everyone an idea on how it is.
Also, if the abc fails, is it a good idea to keep driving it while it is slammed on the floor (until i get the coilovers)? Or does it scrape everywhere to the point where it's undrivable? I've never heard of anyone driving the car with a failed abc, and since I'm getting rid of the whole system anyways, I might as well experiment with it and give everyone an idea on how it is.
#89
Super Member
I went ahead and ordered a tandem pump as I can't deal with a custom pulley right now. My boy S430 was vandalized last night.
#91
MBWorld Fanatic!
#92
Super Member
Thanks for the offer Nick. I did this job once before so I think I'm ok. I was looking for losing some weight and gaining some space but the timing didn't worked out. I was planning to do the tandem pump rebuild too but it doesn't seem to be worthy unless I have ABC.
Perhaps some time down the road...
Perhaps some time down the road...
#93
Super Member
#95
MBWorld Fanatic!
I was planning to do the tandem pump rebuild too but it doesn't seem to be worthy unless I have ABC. Attachment 352780
Perhaps some time down the road...
Perhaps some time down the road...
Are you going to use Dr MAtt's clever method of pushing a socket extension past the subframe plastic cover behind the drag-link bush, to access the pump output banjo bolt?
When I changed mine I used I dropped the subframe instead, which was fine, but it was more work, and I wish I used Matt's method in retrospect.
Nick
#96
Super Member
I was about to start up the torch but decided to abort to deal with other matters. My S600 is still sitting outside the garage and I'm worrying of another vandalism so time is against me.
From my research, a torch and a puller should do the job.
Surprisingly, I didn't have hard time with the output banjo bolt or the nut in the back of the pump. And I wasn't using Dr Matt method. I removed the engine fan through the bottom and didn't have to remove any parts of the radiator. With my back on the floor, I reached up and used a ratchet wrench to remove the output banjo bolt. Very tiny movements but eventually it came off. It took me about an hour to remove the tandem pump.
I looked at the subframe and still don't have a clear picture on how to drop it yet.
From my research, a torch and a puller should do the job.
Surprisingly, I didn't have hard time with the output banjo bolt or the nut in the back of the pump. And I wasn't using Dr Matt method. I removed the engine fan through the bottom and didn't have to remove any parts of the radiator. With my back on the floor, I reached up and used a ratchet wrench to remove the output banjo bolt. Very tiny movements but eventually it came off. It took me about an hour to remove the tandem pump.
I looked at the subframe and still don't have a clear picture on how to drop it yet.
Last edited by DrDoe; 04-16-2017 at 10:10 AM.
#97
MBWorld Fanatic!
"I found out the purpose of the line that runs from the coil harness to the AC compressor area. That line is for powering the AC compressor. Very strange wiring."
No, not really. The AC compressor is always powered - there is no compressor clutch as found on most vehicles. The compressor always turns with the crankshaft.
The wire is the output of a computer-controlled circuit that varies the displacement of the turning compressor. The displacement, and therefore the output, of the compressor is continually varied under computer control to give the amount of cooling needed to keep the interior comfortable.
No, not really. The AC compressor is always powered - there is no compressor clutch as found on most vehicles. The compressor always turns with the crankshaft.
The wire is the output of a computer-controlled circuit that varies the displacement of the turning compressor. The displacement, and therefore the output, of the compressor is continually varied under computer control to give the amount of cooling needed to keep the interior comfortable.
#98
Super Member
Thanks for the info. I just chased it to the AC compressor and thought it for controlling when to get the AC to engage. To me, it's strange that it's a part of the coil harness.
#99
Super Member
By the way, now I remembered that wire was in my way when I removed the driver coil. When I placed the coil back, I pushed that wire against engine unintentionally. Well, I have exposed wire in some areas.
#100
https://ceika-store.com/products/cct1m456
I am about to order these, but I am stuck on how exactly to customize it since I basically have no knowledge on coilovers. I want a sporty and capable ride, but also want it to be comfortable when I am not pushing the car to its limits, so what should be my spring rates? Valve type? Do I need a pillowball mount? Dual springs? Can someone basically explain to me what each of those customizable options on the website are and what I should get? Thanks.
I am about to order these, but I am stuck on how exactly to customize it since I basically have no knowledge on coilovers. I want a sporty and capable ride, but also want it to be comfortable when I am not pushing the car to its limits, so what should be my spring rates? Valve type? Do I need a pillowball mount? Dual springs? Can someone basically explain to me what each of those customizable options on the website are and what I should get? Thanks.