2003 S600 .... Engine out
Also, did you do the yellow speed conversion yet on your s55? How did it go?
Is this the alternative Cieka coilevers you are talking about?:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CEIKA-Type-1...RWdKmP&vxp=mtr
In terms of what brand coilovers to get, I feel like its safer to go with yellow speed because a few people in this forum, including you, have gotten it and things have been pretty positive so far with it. But, if these cieka coilovers prove to be better than the rest somehow and as long as they are guaranteed to be great quality, I won't mind risking giving it a shot for the sake of the forum.
For the p/s pump, should I get a used OEM one, remanufactured, or aftermarket? Is the one you linked earlier a good quality aftermarket replacement? Do I just reroute the hydraulic hoses for the p/s side of the tandem pump to the new non tandem pump and leave the abc hoses tied off somewhere?
Did you leave all the vestigial ABC components in place (lines, accumulators, valve blocks, reservoir, etc.)?
The Best of Mercedes & AMG


So that appears to be a non-issue.
Unfortunately, I can't find a pulley that would work for V12. I need a pulley for PS pump that would take 7ribs serpentine belt.
http://ceikaperformance.com
I am going to order a set of these just see which I like more. I am trying to solve this issue!
Also, if the abc fails, is it a good idea to keep driving it while it is slammed on the floor (until i get the coilovers)? Or does it scrape everywhere to the point where it's undrivable? I've never heard of anyone driving the car with a failed abc, and since I'm getting rid of the whole system anyways, I might as well experiment with it and give everyone an idea on how it is.

Perhaps some time down the road...
Perhaps some time down the road...
Are you going to use Dr MAtt's clever method of pushing a socket extension past the subframe plastic cover behind the drag-link bush, to access the pump output banjo bolt?
When I changed mine I used I dropped the subframe instead, which was fine, but it was more work, and I wish I used Matt's method in retrospect.
Nick
From my research, a torch and a puller should do the job.
Surprisingly, I didn't have hard time with the output banjo bolt or the nut in the back of the pump. And I wasn't using Dr Matt method. I removed the engine fan through the bottom and didn't have to remove any parts of the radiator. With my back on the floor, I reached up and used a ratchet wrench to remove the output banjo bolt. Very tiny movements but eventually it came off. It took me about an hour to remove the tandem pump.
I looked at the subframe and still don't have a clear picture on how to drop it yet.
Last edited by DrDoe; Apr 16, 2017 at 10:10 AM.


No, not really. The AC compressor is always powered - there is no compressor clutch as found on most vehicles. The compressor always turns with the crankshaft.
The wire is the output of a computer-controlled circuit that varies the displacement of the turning compressor. The displacement, and therefore the output, of the compressor is continually varied under computer control to give the amount of cooling needed to keep the interior comfortable.
I am about to order these, but I am stuck on how exactly to customize it since I basically have no knowledge on coilovers. I want a sporty and capable ride, but also want it to be comfortable when I am not pushing the car to its limits, so what should be my spring rates? Valve type? Do I need a pillowball mount? Dual springs? Can someone basically explain to me what each of those customizable options on the website are and what I should get? Thanks.












