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Wow Mike, why did you have to go projecting your fantasies again.
Issue 1: My footwell lights and puddles lights are not turning on. Could this be a blown fuse? They are secondary lighting so maybe they run off the same fuse?
Issue 2: Does anyone have the latest Navi Update CD for our W221s? I will pay shipping both ways if anyone can lend me theres.
If its something I can download and burn to a CD, please give me guidance.
Last edited by mercedesbenzs55; 03-28-2016 at 01:26 AM.
Wow Mike, why did you have to go projecting your fantasies again.
Issue 1: My footwell lights and puddles lights are not turning on. Could this be a blown fuse? They are secondary lighting so maybe they run off the same fuse?
Issue 2: Does anyone have the latest Navi Update CD for our W221s? I will pay shipping both ways if anyone can lend me theres.
If its something I can download and burn to a CD, please give me guidance.
The button right of the SOS button on the overhead panel also controls the footwell lighting. Check that first.
Those are so difficult to find in wood. The faux wood and wood glue-on covers are not for me. I actually prefer leather on my hand as I drive. It's a softer feel.
You're doing a solid job based on what you have to work with Benzs55. Keep it up
To add IMO if you have a scanner the stealership can be a rip off. I've at least two times known what my issue was(by OBD Scan) only to go to the dealership and pay 200-300 for them Star Scan and tell me the same thing I already knew lol.
I can see getting a scan there (MB) in your case since you're new to this vehicle but I have no issue with you not going to them. Maybe an Indy can give you a good price on a scan at another time or maybe even a chain like STS etc. It'll be half the cost there and just as effective in my experience.
I'm on to getting 3 estimates at local body shops.
I must have missed something. What happened to your boy Vlaad? Thought he was going to do the measure and pull for you. Local body shops... Prepare yourself for sticker shock if these are not personal connections.
Vlad isn't experienced with working on aluminum. He insisted I buy the two aluminum parts($1050 from dealer) that make the rear lip so he can use rivets to secure them on. He wanted me to buy a different trunk(OEM used approx. $450) and hinges due to the very bottom of the it having three small divots that he said would have to be bondoed. I believe the trunk can be saved. Maybe new hinges.
I see he has experience to pull on the rack. But he's shy with aluminum. Ill get other opinions and see where it stands.
Last edited by mercedesbenzs55; 03-28-2016 at 01:19 PM.
You're doing a solid job based on what you have to work with Benzs55. Keep it up
To add IMO if you have a scanner the stealership can be a rip off. I've at least two times known what my issue was(by OBD Scan) only to go to the dealership and pay 200-300 for them Star Scan and tell me the same thing I already knew lol.
I can see getting a scan there (MB) in your case since you're new to this vehicle but I have no issue with you not going to them. Maybe an Indy can give you a good price on a scan at another time or maybe even a chain like STS etc. It'll be half the cost there and just as effective in my experience.
Just what he needs....more bad advice that he's apt to follow because it goes against common sense. STAR will pick up a lot that an OBD2 scanner will not. For instance, an OBD2 scanner cannot read any transmission or electronics errors. STAR will pick up all faults in the car. His car is a train wreck and needs a proper full diagnosis. Not spending the $150 or so to have the car fully diagnosed, yet spending money on a wooden steering wheel is pretty moronic IMO.
For reference, "street price" here to do the least conservative repair, which would be to replace the rear panel and the left quarter OEM, would be around $7000 parts and labor at a labor rate of $42/hr. That would include the measure and pull, which would add about $200 at a $42 labor rate but is not on the estimate. (Asked a friend of mine to plug it in to his estimating software). I didn't have him write anything on the right quarter, but add another 4 hours plus paint and paint labor for that. If the trunk needs repair and refinish add another few hundred as well.
The more conservative repair (per the same guy) would be 2.5 set up and measure, 2.0 pull, 7 hours repair on the left quarter, 5 hours repair rear panel, 4 hours right quarter and add in a couple hours and a urethane kit to R&I the back glass. They'll want that out before the pull to avoid breaking it. Add paint and materials plus paint labor, you'll probably end up under $3500 going that route. That does not include anything on the trunk. Figure another $500 either for repair and paint or LKQ replace and paint.
If you want to narrow down shops who can handle aluminum, any shop certified by MB, BMW, Jaguar, Range Rover etc will do. Unfortunately they'll be the most expensive shops in town in terms of labor rate. Welcome to S Class ownership.
Just what he needs....more bad advice that he's apt to follow because it goes against common sense. STAR will pick up a lot that an OBD2 scanner will not. For instance, an OBD2 scanner cannot read any transmission or electronics errors. STAR will pick up all faults in the car. His car is a train wreck and needs a proper full diagnosis. Not spending the $150 or so to have the car fully diagnosed, yet spending money on a wooden steering wheel is pretty moronic IMO.
dont say moronic, just a slightly different approach from what you or mostly any other forumer would have spent that money on.
If this was my project three simple steps to take before even engaging in anything serious about fixing the car
1) Get a Full diagnosis of the car:- take it to dealer or authorized shop and get it fully evaluated. To see if the car would be worth fixing or not. $150
2) Get a Full body shop Estimate: See how much it would cost you to get it back in working condition. Free
3) if 1 & 2 is doable for you, then you start sourcing for parts for the repair, and looking for bargain on the labor aspect of it.
4) if 1 & 2 is not doable for you, then you cut your losses and relist car to be sold back on whatever auction site you bought it from.
NB, you can not skip step 1 or 2 and jump to 3 or 4.
@Dave - Funny you say transmission specifically. Just a month or two ago STS told me your transmission fluid looks low and we don't have it here so you'll have to go to the dealer. So I take it there and the SA calls me back and says how did STS know that it was low do they have the equipment that we have? They don't is what the SA says being a smart ****.
3 hours later he calls me and says they were right it is a little low. $250 dollars later just to have him tell me the same thing STS told me the same scan which cost only $90 at STS. So again from my experience and more than once STAR didn't tell me anything unique.
I haven't been back to STS to ask if they have STAR etc. but whatever they have is just as good in my experience as MB. As I said though Benzs55 situation is different he may need to take it there but something tells me he can go to anywhere legit and be just as well off.
I don't know which dealers you guys go to but a full diagnostic scan at Ray Catena in North Jersey or Prestige of Paramus NJ will run you about $300
Last edited by jahquan3; 03-28-2016 at 02:29 PM.
Reason: Additional sentence
dont say moronic, just a slightly different approach from what you or mostly any other forumer would have spent that money on.
If this was my project three simple steps to take before even engaging in anything serious about fixing the car
1) Get a Full diagnosis of the car:- take it to dealer or authorized shop and get it fully evaluated. To see if the car would be worth fixing or not. $150
2) Get a Full body shop Estimate: See how much it would cost you to get it back in working condition. Free
3) if 1 & 2 is doable for you, then you start sourcing for parts for the repair, and looking for bargain on the labor aspect of it.
4) if 1 & 2 is not doable for you, then you cut your losses and relist car to be sold back on whatever auction site you bought it from.
NB, you can not skip step 1 or 2 and jump to 3 or 4.
I fully agree with your step order. I and the other sensible members have been telling him that from the beginning. Where he becomes moronic is the goofy things he says and does that go against any shred of common sense.
Originally Posted by jahquan3
@Dave - Funny you say transmission specifically. Just a month or two ago STS told me your transmission fluid looks low and we don't have it here so you'll have to go to the dealer. So I take it there and the SA calls me back and says how did STS know that it was low do they have the equipment that we have? They don't is what the SA says.
3 hours later he calls me and says they were right it is a little low. $250 dollars later just to have him tell me the same thing STS told me the same scan which cost only $90 at STS. So again from my experience and more than once STAR didn't tell me anything unique.
I haven't been back to STS to ask if they have STAR etc. but whatever they have is just as good in my experience as MB. As I said though Benzs55 situation is different he may need to take it there but something tells me he can go to anywhere legit and be just as well off.
I don't know which dealers you guys go to but a full diagnostic scan at Ray Catena in North Jersey or Prestige of Paramus NJ will run you about $300
I guess not all service departments and techs are created equally. He can certainly go to an indy if they have the proper STAR & Xentry equipment and are experienced in using it. IMO, there likely wouldn't be much difference in cost of diagnosis between a dealer and indy who has the right equipment. Likely no more than $50. For that kind of money, I'd let the dealer diagnose the car. It's not like he will be forced to let them do any necessary repairs.
Even at $150, or around an hour and half labor, it's a bargain. Hell, it's a necessity at least one time to get the old codes cleared and establish a baseline. Nothing having to do with an S is or ever will be cheap. It's just part and parcel of owning one.
For the most part we agree but it can be any legit chain or a good Indy. I'm just not a huge fan of the stealership even though i do go just for the hell of it. Good coffee and a loaner here and there but sheesh I always feel a little cheapen when I leave Lol.
I think OP said he is going to take it to some sort of shop/indy somewhere in this thread.
Even at $150, or around an hour and half labor, it's a bargain. Hell, it's a necessity at least one time to get the old codes cleared and establish a baseline. Nothing having to do with an S is or ever will be cheap. It's just part and parcel of owning one.
I don't have the money atm or I would. I need to make an appointment aswell.
I don't have the money atm or I would. I need to make an appointment aswell.
Huh? Why'd you buy the steering wheel if money was that tight? Honestly if your cash flow is such that you can't find a hundred and fifty bucks for something essential you're not ready for an S Class.
I'm stumped as to the inexplicable resistance to, and excuses against getting a simple STAR scan. Are you afraid of what it will reveal?
Huh? Why'd you buy the steering wheel if money was that tight? Honestly if your cash flow is such that you can't find a hundred and fifty bucks for something essential you're not ready for an S Class.
I'm stumped as to the inexplicable resistance to, and excuses against getting a simple STAR scan. Are you afraid of what it will reveal?
I've already asked that question a few times. Don't expect an answer from him.