2007 S600 Repair Manual- Power Steering
05-11-2017, 10:24 AM
#1
2007 S600 Repair Manual- Power Steering
Hello All, Can anyone steer me to the best repair manual for my specific car? Either a book, or a download from the internet. I need to replace the Power Steering Tandem Pump, and the Front Valve Block for the ABC. Had it to the dealer for a whining noise, and that's the conclusion they came up with. $7100 plus tax! I have looked all over for a DIY , but no luck for my car. W221 V12. I did read somewhere that the engine might have to be jacked up. Fun! 
Also, does anyone know of a diagnostic tool for a laptop, that would let me perform the RODEO function? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks....
Also, does anyone know of a diagnostic tool for a laptop, that would let me perform the RODEO function? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks....
05-11-2017, 12:14 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
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'71 Pinto
Free workshop manuals:
http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedesbenz/
http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedes...t_unit_faults/
MBUSA market, STAR https://www.startekinfo.com ($60 24 hour subscription).
If within VIN range contact MB to request goodwill pump replacement per bulletin 32.50/60a, defective tandem pump installed at production replaced with revised part. 048280 concerning valve block, ABC lines may be stressed or pulsation damper needs replacement rather than replacing entire valve. 051125 addresses noises from front or rear axle if applicable.
http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedesbenz/
http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedes...t_unit_faults/
MBUSA market, STAR https://www.startekinfo.com ($60 24 hour subscription).
If within VIN range contact MB to request goodwill pump replacement per bulletin 32.50/60a, defective tandem pump installed at production replaced with revised part. 048280 concerning valve block, ABC lines may be stressed or pulsation damper needs replacement rather than replacing entire valve. 051125 addresses noises from front or rear axle if applicable.
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gsxr711 (05-11-2017)
05-11-2017, 01:43 PM
#3
Thank you very much konigstiger. Much appreciated. I am actually within the Vin range for the replacement, but I can't imagine them giving me a new pump. I will certainly look into the pulsation damper for the valve. If I can screw a new one on without taking the world apart, that's definitely the way to go. Everything is packed very tight on the V12. Is the info on the Startek site, much better than the free MB workshop manual? I would be happy to pay, if it has more info. Thanks again...
05-11-2017, 01:48 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
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'71 Pinto
For the most part info is there however, some instances it is lacking in STAR you can negotiate via VIN and all docs are linked so it makes downloading/printing easier.
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gsxr711 (05-11-2017)
05-12-2017, 07:48 PM
#5
Member
My experience is that dealers love to replace parts even when its not warranted (to the point of absurdity at times). Not saying that's your case but a possibility.
Whining noises can sometimes be caused by worn accumulators including the pulsation damper. Assuming you have the 2nd generation ABC, the pulsation damper on the pump is easy to change on the V12. Remove DS air intake and you'll be looking at it. You can get a socket on the top of it and loosen it and screw new one on. Blow away any loose debris and clean the area as best you can before you start. The accumulators should be considered maintenance items because they get less efficient over time even though they haven't fully failed. Like konigstiger mentioned, if there are no other issues with the suspension it is not likely the valve block. The accumulator on the front screws into the valve block up under the washer fluid tank in front of DS tire. Rear accumulator is in spare tire well and unbolts from under the car. You can remove these and replace with no fluid loss as the system is not under pressure once the car sits a while. Front accumulator will need a thin 27MM open end wrench as a normal size will not fit in between accumulator and valve block to crack it loose. Haven't replaced a tandem pump so no help there.
Good luck,
Randy
Whining noises can sometimes be caused by worn accumulators including the pulsation damper. Assuming you have the 2nd generation ABC, the pulsation damper on the pump is easy to change on the V12. Remove DS air intake and you'll be looking at it. You can get a socket on the top of it and loosen it and screw new one on. Blow away any loose debris and clean the area as best you can before you start. The accumulators should be considered maintenance items because they get less efficient over time even though they haven't fully failed. Like konigstiger mentioned, if there are no other issues with the suspension it is not likely the valve block. The accumulator on the front screws into the valve block up under the washer fluid tank in front of DS tire. Rear accumulator is in spare tire well and unbolts from under the car. You can remove these and replace with no fluid loss as the system is not under pressure once the car sits a while. Front accumulator will need a thin 27MM open end wrench as a normal size will not fit in between accumulator and valve block to crack it loose. Haven't replaced a tandem pump so no help there.
Good luck,
Randy
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lionsfan54 (05-21-2018)
05-13-2017, 10:17 AM
#7
Member
The write-up diagrams are 1st generation ABC and show 4 accumulators: front axle, rear axle, pulsation damper and a return flow accumulator. On my car (2nd generation ABC) I can't find a return flow accumulator when looking at parts. Maybe I just haven't found it. On my 2008 the front is P/N 2213270215, rear is P/N 2213280015 and the pulsation damper is P/N 0004660310. I get discounted prices and usually buy at dealership. Front and rear accumulators will be around $250 each and pulsation damper is more maybe $300 to 325. You can find them online - dealer will charge you more at retail prices. If you find a 4th on the later system let me know. To be honest I haven't looked for it maybe need to get under the car and look around!
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06-03-2018, 08:56 AM
#9
Senior Member
My experience is that dealers love to replace parts even when its not warranted (to the point of absurdity at times). Not saying that's your case but a possibility.
Whining noises can sometimes be caused by worn accumulators including the pulsation damper. Assuming you have the 2nd generation ABC, the pulsation damper on the pump is easy to change on the V12. Remove DS air intake and you'll be looking at it. You can get a socket on the top of it and loosen it and screw new one on. Blow away any loose debris and clean the area as best you can before you start. The accumulators should be considered maintenance items because they get less efficient over time even though they haven't fully failed. Like konigstiger mentioned, if there are no other issues with the suspension it is not likely the valve block. The accumulator on the front screws into the valve block up under the washer fluid tank in front of DS tire. Rear accumulator is in spare tire well and unbolts from under the car. You can remove these and replace with no fluid loss as the system is not under pressure once the car sits a while. Front accumulator will need a thin 27MM open end wrench as a normal size will not fit in between accumulator and valve block to crack it loose. Haven't replaced a tandem pump so no help there.
Good luck,
Randy
Whining noises can sometimes be caused by worn accumulators including the pulsation damper. Assuming you have the 2nd generation ABC, the pulsation damper on the pump is easy to change on the V12. Remove DS air intake and you'll be looking at it. You can get a socket on the top of it and loosen it and screw new one on. Blow away any loose debris and clean the area as best you can before you start. The accumulators should be considered maintenance items because they get less efficient over time even though they haven't fully failed. Like konigstiger mentioned, if there are no other issues with the suspension it is not likely the valve block. The accumulator on the front screws into the valve block up under the washer fluid tank in front of DS tire. Rear accumulator is in spare tire well and unbolts from under the car. You can remove these and replace with no fluid loss as the system is not under pressure once the car sits a while. Front accumulator will need a thin 27MM open end wrench as a normal size will not fit in between accumulator and valve block to crack it loose. Haven't replaced a tandem pump so no help there.
Good luck,
Randy
06-03-2018, 11:58 AM
#10
Junior Member
I don’t remember mine being “sealed”, just capped. I just removed the cap covering the threads and screwed it on. I almost thought the cap was part of it because it’s black.
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lionsfan54 (06-03-2018)
06-03-2018, 12:05 PM
#11
Senior Member
06-03-2018, 12:29 PM
#12
Junior Member
See that’s why I was confused at first. If I remember correctly, that whole end with the hex head is the cap. You remove that whole thing and then the spongy part comes off with it. I didn’t realize it until I removed the old one and noticed they didn’t match until you remove that cap.
06-03-2018, 12:31 PM
#13
Junior Member
I had to remove the driver side air box to access it. There is a vacuum hose on the bottom of that box that I discovered was not connected. It’s a little awkward to attach it, but be sure you hook it up when reinstalling
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lionsfan54 (06-03-2018)
06-03-2018, 01:09 PM
#14
Senior Member
See that’s why I was confused at first. If I remember correctly, that whole end with the hex head is the cap. You remove that whole thing and then the spongy part comes off with it. I didn’t realize it until I removed the old one and noticed they didn’t match until you remove that cap.
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lionsfan54 (06-03-2018)
06-03-2018, 01:15 PM
#16
Senior Member
Only part I had to remove was the "snorkel" that attaches (poorly) to the front of the car. I got some scraped up knuckles, but the whole job took 5 min. I shudder to think what a dealer would charge.. It seems to have addressed one of my problems (a knocking sound from up in that area upon start up and backing out of the garage). I'll get it warmed up and see if the other issues also clear up. Fingers crossed!
06-03-2018, 01:16 PM
#17
Senior Member
06-03-2018, 01:34 PM
#18
Junior Member
Only part I had to remove was the "snorkel" that attaches (poorly) to the front of the car. I got some scraped up knuckles, but the whole job took 5 min. I shudder to think what a dealer would charge.. It seems to have addressed one of my problems (a knocking sound from up in that area upon start up and backing out of the garage). I'll get it warmed up and see if the other issues also clear up. Fingers crossed!
