Please excuse my level of frustration.

2007 S600, 48K miles, service records from the Carfax looked good with regular visits to M-B dealers for service. The only thing I noticed was missing was the 40K mile transmission fluid service. I bought it on 5/2, and it's been a constant source of frustration since about 30 minutes after leaving the dealer's parking lot.

Since I bought this accursed beast, I've spent more time trying to make it driveable than actually driving it. There were a series of ABS/ESP errors, limp mode, etc. The MB II scan tool came up with errors from several modules, all saying they couldn't communicate with ESP (N47-5). Reset, drove again, everything was good... until suddenly it wasn't. I'd try to start the car and no Keyless-Go function, ABS error, ESP error, Parking Assist disabled, no power steering, second gear only, etc.

After the ABS/ESP error went from intermittent to solid, I ordered a replacement ABS pump module (eBay seller, 180 day warranty). My plan was to replace just the electronics, but the replacement has no warranty if I pull it apart... and the brakes were due for their 2-year fluid replacement anyway. I installed it this weekend, then pressure bled all four wheels with fresh fluid. Started the car, backed out of the driveway, put it in D for the test drive... and bam. ESP disabled, Parking Assist disabled. Every time. It seems to drive OK, steering seems heavy, but of course no cruise control, and constant *****ing from the car. Having read many stories about wheel speed sensors, I hooked up the scan tool and drove it while my son monitored the wheel speed sensor data. All look OK at all speeds.

So, does the ABS/ESP module need to be coded to the car using Xentry? Or did I get a bad ABS/ESP module? I'd hate like hell to have to go through pulling that thing a second time. It's really not much fun at all. Even more of a pain in the *** than the intercooler pump was.

At this point I'm feeling like my best approach to this car might be with a can of premium gas... and a lighter. On those rare occasions when it's actually able to be driven (other than a test drive after repair), there's a constant feeling of "OK, what's going to break next, and can I get home before it does?" I almost had a deal with a guy at a stoplight when I offered to swap him straight across for his nicely restored '66 Le Mans. Couldn't convince him I was serious. Sigh...

 

Abs Reluctant Ring W221 Rear Axle

 

I replaced Abs Reluctant Rings on both sides and wheel speed sensors. So far very good.

 

First thing is first...... What codes are you getting???

 

No MIL, no OBD DTCs. The MB II scan tool shows these:

CURRENT -- 741E DISTRONIC PLUS: NO FUNCTION. Read out fault memory of control unit N47-5 (ESP control unit).
STORED -- 7409 Chassis CAN Bus: No CAN message received from control unit N47-5
STORED -- 5106 L6/1 (left front speed sensor): Carry out visual inspection.
STORED -- 5996 VRV DUMMY
STORED -- 5097 CAN bus fault: The control unit is in a passive state because of an ESP fault.
STORED -- 5033 No CAN message was received from control unit N47-5 (ESP) or RBS or N93

Helpful?

 

Again, left front speed sensor is acting funny. Easiest way to start repairing. Put some Bosch sensor in.
I've had the same faults and symptoms.
5 cents of mine.

 

Can I get my change, please? I replaced the left front wheel sensor yesterday. Zero change. As soon as the car has moved a few feet, I get alarms for ESP disabled, park assist disabled, etc. Runs and drives OK, but no ESP, no parking sensors, no cruise control. I think its going to the dealer this week. Im going to tell them what I've done so far, and ask that they update every single piece of software in the car to the latest version. Telematics, drivetrain, all of it. Then see if they can figure out what's wrong, and give me a list of any parts required before going further. I'll gladly pay for diagnosis and the kind of software work I'm not equipped to do, but what I don't want is to pick it up and get a $10K repair bill.

 

Hi, DaleB.

Paypal ok?

So, I've replaced all 4 sensors and both rear reluctant rings at the back.
With Star diagnosis I've also reseting N47 modul, so no more error codes there. Of course, for reading brake modul u need battery voltage at least 12,7V.
Beeing in the modul then, u can check every wheel sensor to see if it's working as it should.
Older sensors had like 0,38 Ohms, newer are at 0,52 Ohms...

 

I've watched all four wheel sensors in the data stream. They're solid, no unusual data or dropouts. I wish it would turn out to be something cheap like a speed sensor, but it doesn't look like it. I have an appointment with the local dealer to drop it off early Thursday morning. After talking to a couple of independent shops, they don't seem to have all the tools needed to do the really in-depth software stuff.

 

After the Speed Sensor R&R did you reset the ESP function?

Post #8 on this thread.
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...-steering.html

 

Yes. Several times. No difference. While backing out of the driveway (or within 20-30 feet of putting it in D), I get "ESP Disabled" and "Park Assist Disabled". There are NO wheel sensor faults. After this last round, the only codes I find are "VRV DUMMY" and the radar sensor control unit saying it didn't receive data from N47-5 ESP control unit.

 

Well, I guess we will find out the answer soon. I dropped it off at the dealer this morning. Told the SA what the history was, and that I had replaced the ABS/ESP module with a used unit from another S-class. I'm having them troubleshoot that, find the leak in the low temp circuit, and vacuum bleed that system so maybe I'll have functioning intercoolers for more than an hour or so at a time. Oh, and I asked them to see if they can figure out why sometimes I get cold air, and sometimes not. The other night on the way to dinner, we got hot air up front for about 10-15 minutes, then the A/C blew nice cold air for the rest of the night. The rear seems to work fine all the time, so I'm suspecting a wonky temperature sensor. But which one? There seem to be a lot of them.

I'll post the results when I get the car back.

 

Well, this has certainly turned into a circus.

Local dealer swears the ABS/ESP module cannot be re-programmed to work in my vehicle, the ONLY choice is to buy new. Selling vendor (1-888-9-parts-1 on eBay) says any dealer or independent shop should be able to do it with normal diagnostic tools. Last night I pulled the original electronic module apart and soldered all of the thru-hole pin connections that are not soldered from the factory, and reflowed the pins on the processors as well as I was able. I took it over to the dealer this morning and asked the tech to install and see if it works. If it does, great -- if not, then I'm stuck with some people telling me it's no problem, the dealer can do it -- and the only dealer within 120 miles telling me it's impossible. Oh, and every independent shop in town tells me they don't have the ability to do it and seem to not be really sure what the hell I'm talking about.

On the bright side, the tech says he's got my intercooler circuit leak fixed, and the A/C problem is a bad left front center vent sensor. They want $660-plus for just the part, screw that. It's intermittent, and I can probably fix it since it's not a control unit that will require some sort of cosmic tribal knowledge to re-program.

What a pain in the ****.

Edit: Now a second dealer has told me the ABS/ESP module cannot be re-programmed to work.

 

Hi Dale, sorry for your woes. Far be it for me to disagree with the dealers. I guess if they say it can’t be reprogrammed, we have to live with that.

You mentioned resetting N47-5. I assume you mean clearing the code. I used STAR, DAS, Xenrty (whatever we want to call it) to reprogram mine. See:

https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...operative.html

I mentioned in the post that it made a lot of clicking and liquid sounds, although, I wasn’t even sure I needed to do that. I assume your "reset' didn't do that and only Xentry can???

Let’s hope someone viewing can clarify if a used part can be reprogrammed. So, for the time being, I have nothing to add, other than you are welcome to come the southern most point in TX and we'll give it a try...

Point is, you obviously know your way around computers so it should be a snap for you to get the cables and software for STAR and be up and running. It’s well worth the investment and indispensable for us DIYer’s.

Regards… Mark

 

Honestly... I'm not really in the mood to sink yet another $800-$1K into hardware (and pirated software) just on the off chance that every single shop I have talked to is either incompetent or is lying to me. I have yet to have a single person tell me they bought a salvage ABS/ESP control module and successfully mated it to a different car. The seller says it can be done, but of course they can't tell me how it can be done, or who can do it. Just "Every dealer or independent shop", all of whom are telling me exactly the opposite.

I've used the MBII scan tool to clear the error codes; they keep re-occurring, obviously, every time I drive the car. At this point, either my repairs to the original module work, or it looks like I'm shelling out another $14-1500 for a new one, on top of the several hundred in diagnostic charges and other minor fixes the dealer is doing.

In the end, the car will just end up being several thousand more expensive than I anticipated. I'll drive it if it proves to be reliable after this incredibly painful and frustrating experience, otherwise it gets sold, I'll take the loss, and I'll chalk it up to a tuition payment. This thing so far has been like an ex-girlfriend... beautiful, impresses the neighbors, fun to ride, but then there's that rabbit in the stew pot.

 

Odd they would say that an old module can't be programmed to work.
So how do they program a new module to work?
There is no way these things can be a one time burn eprom.

Keep looking for a good indie that actually knows these cars.
My wife had her Q7 serviced and the moron mechanic that worked on it put a non-reusable compression clamp back on a fuel fitting into a regulator, it blew a supply hose off and pumped diesel all inside the engine bay.
When I was fixing that I noticed that the air filter box cover was on wrong and the top clamps were inside the box instead of outside and clamped properly.
It's like they struggled with it and then just said "screw it".
A decent mechanic is really hard to find these days.

 

According to the dealer, they have no way to completely reset the old module and initialize it to the car. True? False? I have no way to test or prove one way or the other. I did, however, get the exact same answer from two different dealers in two cities. There was NO indy shop in the area that knew either. I contacted every one of them before resorting to the dealer. Only one even had the ability to do SCN coding. A few claimed to have the Star/Xentry setup, but are probably using the pirated version with no online access.

It seems the short answer is, if you have an S600, you either take it to the dealer and accept that you will need an open-ended, unlimited repair budget -- or you simply hope it's something that one of the independent shops knows how to fix. This is just a new experience for me. It's been extremely rare for anyone but me to lay a wrench on any of my vehicles outside of warranty before. I farm out the stuff I don't have the equipment to do myself (like turning brake drums). Everything else I've done myself, mostly because every time I've farmed out work I've either had it come back done wrong, or felt like I was way over-charged. And, this car seems to have more problems than I was counting on. I suspect the selling dealer figured out that clearing all the codes would let it run perfectly just long enough to get it sold, and that's what they did.

 

Dale, don’t get too discouraged... just yet… I’m now 4 years into ownership of the W221 V-12 and, although I have felt the same as you from time to time (especially the GF part), I’m still sticking with her. Here's a post from 3 years ago.

https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...e-learned.html

I had to refer to that post to remind me what I had invested in STAR. I said then, under $400. That was the Dell, cables and (presumably) pirated software. I say “presumably” because I don’t think MB really cares. For example, now, available online is the MB workshop manual for any model:

https://mbwis.net/

Dale, look at it this way… The original owner of your car, 13 years ago, was experiencing a 2% per month depreciation of about $3500/ month. That’s what it cost that owner to own, excluding man't, ins and fuel... Now, don’t you feel better?

I still have to leave what the dealers are telling you with, "No comment." But, I'm with Sal. When I reprogrammed N47-5 with my software, it appeared to work. I leave it to someone more knowledgeable than me to say for sure...

Regards... Mark

PS.... BTW, I'm a 3 hour round-trip from the dealer and my car has never seen their bays... And, sounds like you’ll have a much easier time than me getting Star to work...

Finally, a War Story, just for good measure… Two actually... Fourteen years ago, I took our, new to us, Jag XJ-8 to the dealer. I'd owned it 2 days and got a Restricted Performance warning. Dealer called and quoted $5K+ to fix. I said, "No" and went and looked at what they wanted to do. One coil pack had fried and it was obvious. They wanted to replace all eight. I had them replace one and, with other stuff, it cost $1700. The next time I replaced a coil pack it cost $28 and, today, I have a spare in the truck that cost $17. To this day, six of the original eight coil packs are still in the car and it runs great. That was the LAST time any of my cars has seen a dealer or ANY repair shop… Although, not the last time that Jag has needed Major work...

One more... Before the Jag, last time any of my cars saw a dealer was about 30 years ago. I took my Corvette to the dealer for convenience to replace an intake gasket. Next day, the car went up in flames in downtown Houston! Chevy dealer had left a gas line loose! Need I say more... Not knocking tech's. They are great... However, my MB, Porsche, and Ferrari HAD never seen anybody but tech's before I bought them... All had damage, tabs and such, from previous repairs...

 

Maybe they do, maybe not. Either way you have zero guarantee that it will still work tomorrow. Probably will, but I'm a little leery. Right now a C4 with cables will run $500+, then you have the laptop and software. And, in my case, no guarantee that it will do what I need done, several sources swearing that it cannot be done, and so far I don't think a single person has been able to say they bought a used ABS/ESP control unit and got it to work in their car. Is that what you were able to do? Because anything short of that doesn't do me much good in this particular instance.

I may buy a Star/Xentry setup at some point, but not this time around. Not willing to be the guinea pig to see if it will work for this fix or not, and I'll only buy the tools if I'm keeping the car. At this point, I love driving the thing on those oh-so-rare occasions when it actually works. I don't expect an older biturbo V12 car to be completely trouble-free, and I'm willing to accept a little higher cost and effort for maintenance. I can't deal with an unreliable vehicle, though. It's got to repay my maintenance and upkeep by being ready to travel when I am. If it can't do that, then it's history. We'll see how I feel about it in a month or two.
Immaterial. The original owner was willing to pay $140K for a car, so we live on different planets altogether. His first few months probably cost double that, really. The depreciation seems to be especially steep for the first couple of years, after which it gets less painful. I bought my last new vehicle in 2011... after buying my wife's Volvo, I swore off ever buying new again. The thing was like brand new, less than a year old, had about 9K miles... and more than $15K under sticker. I almost feel sorry for the guy who bought it new, but it was traded in at a BMW dealer for something even more ridiculous.
But -- was it the N47-5 from a different car? So far I don't think I have heard from anyone who's done that. Still waiting to hear back from the shop with what the damage will be.

I hate taking a car to a shop, and especially hate taking it to a dealer.

 

Well, this verily doth suck. Just heard back from the SA, finally. The tech can't get two of the Torx screws out that hold the module to the ABS pump, probably because the parts seller globbed paint into the screw heads. I've told them to just stop screwing with it. I'm going to just pick the car up and finish the job myself. First thing I'll probably do is just wrap the module to protect the contacts, then plug it onto the cable and see if it throws a code when I start and drive the car. If it seems OK, I"ll try to get the two remaining screws out. If I can't I'll pull the effing ABS pump assembly and put the original back in. Hey, it's only another few hours and another can of brake fluid, right? If it fails, I'll have them replace the whole damned thing.

Or torch the car, depending on my mood. What a freaking nightmare. Good thing I have a Ford still, so at least I've got something to drive.

 

Again, sorry for your troubles… Maybe I missed something, but let me see if I got this right… First, the dealer says they can’t reprogram the used part you installed. And, now, they say they can’t get off the used part you put on??? (or, at least the module part of it)… And, the reason they were taking it off, was to put on a new one or, replace it with one you attempted to fix??? That doth suck...

But to answer your question: No, I have not tried to reprogram a used module. Like Sal, above, said, “How do they reprogram a new one?”

I’ve been told no one except MB North America can reprogram a key, even the dealer. But this (ESP module) is hardly the ignition key… Like you, still waiting for somebody who knows for sure. I personally find that highly implausible…

PS... Bad Torx screws are easy to get out... Grind a slot in it and use a flat head screwdriver... Ask me how I know....

 

Yep, that's the gist of it. I, on the other hand, am not afraid to snap off the screws, as I have nothing to lose at this point. So, as soon as I find a set of Torx bits that will get in there and do the job I'm going to take a crack at it. The object is to try my hopefully-repaired module and see if it works or not, before spending $1500 replacing the whole thing.

It doesn't have top make sense, it just is. I mean, why would the dealer not be able to re-program a key, or tell the car to accept a new key? There's no technical reason that it would have to be that way, just either intentional software limitations or policies.

Getting the screws out is probably not a big deal, IF you have the ABS module on the bench. I'm trying to avoid doing that again. Taking it out means another complete brake system pressure bleed -- time consuming and a pain in the rear -- and it's a real b*** to get out and back in. I know, I've done it, and I hope to not have to do it again. Of course if it's in the car there's not enough clearance to use a regular Torx screwdriver, nor can you use a Torx bit socket. You need a hex drive or maybe a 1/4" drive Torx driver bit with about a 1.5 to 2" straight shank, so I'll be ordering a set today. I will say, my collection of Torx tools is rapidly expanding. I already had to go buy a set of ratchet drive bits to get the T50 needed to do the wheel sensor, and a set of straight drivers to get at a couple of other screws.

And how the hell, exactly, does one end up being a service advisor at a car dealer without knowing ANYTHING about cars or how any part of them works?? The SA was probably the most mechanically clueless person I've talked to in years. My wife knows more about the S-class cooling and brake systems than this guy. What a chore... any time I had a question or request, I had to go down there and talk to the mechanic directly, because anything else was beyond his capabilities.

 

I'm sorry you're having to go all through this Dale.
I had my W221 about 6 months when the trans took a massive dump. A clutch pack broke a retaining ring and I didn't catch it until it did some damage to other hard parts.
$7800 later I was good to go. Got the updated valve body, TCM and torque converter as well.Except the back up camera quit working.
I took it back to the dealership and the SA said "Oh, that's not an OEM camera."
Sure looks OEM to me. Took the car home and toggled through the modes via the steering wheel and found that it had been turned off. Presumably when they flashed the ECU for the new conductor plate.
Turned it on and it worked. Sure seems odd that an aftermarket camera would work so well and integrate with the existing Command Screen.
More research and sure enough it is OEM.
Sometimes I think these guys are just guessing.

It should be pretty rewarding once you get the car sorted. Vale drivers still park my car in front even though it's 12 years old now, and the ride is pretty phenomenal.
Stick it out if you can.

BTW, my old Ford (F250) is dead reliable too, at 230k miles.
Good luck brother, keep us posted on the turnout.
Sal

 

Well, tonight I managed to connect the original N47-5 control module to see if my repair attempt worked. I bolted it to the old ABS pump, since I'm sure it would throw a hissy fit it it didn't see pump module. I had to move a ground cable to get the connector up to where I could plug it into the old module without actually removing the one that's there now. Anyway, started the engine, got an immediate "ESP Disabled" message. So, no, it's not fixed. At this point, it seems my only option is to replace the unit -- a little under $1500 at the dealer, and no one else seems to be able to do it. The part alone is about $1150-ish.

It wouldn't **** me off so much if I hadn't just sunk all that time (probably 12-15 hours total), money (close to $500 with the parts and tools), and effort into it, only to be screwed by something as simple as either a software limitation, or people that just don't know what they're doing. And it's a toss-up which one it is.. THAT stings.

 

Dale, I still think you need to reprogram. I know this is multiple links but follow the links in my post #14 above. Here's what one member said in one of the links:

"With one error eliminated it was time to attack the ESP/ABS errors...

I used STAR/XENTRY and attemped to recalibrate the ABR which failed. I then cleared the ABR errors using STAR/XENTRY and then attempted recalibration which then worked. I then used STAR/XENTRY again and selected the "Road Test" option which places the car in "Test" mode and provides a list of steps to take complete the "Road Test". I didn't follow the steps correctly but discovered that in "Test/Dyno" mode though ABS/ESP etc were disabled I now had power steering and, Night View Assist, Distronic Plus all working which previously were not working due to the errors listed above. When I followed the steps for the "Road Test" correctly all of the lights went out and my car was back to normal meaning no more disabling of power steering, ABS, ESP once you reached 18 km/h.

Hopefully this will help someone else with similar issues, the errors would lead you to believe you need to replace your ESP module when it fact the ESP module could be fine and just need re-calibration."

When I reprogrammed the control module, as stated in #14, I got a bunch of clicking and "squishy" sounds. Obviously, solenoids and brake fluid were flipping around. Stands to reason it wasn't just doing that for the hell of it. Okay, one more link on replacing N47-5:

https://mbwis.net/en/doc/7025795

Note, it says you need STAR to "commission" N47-5. The member quoted above says you have to follow the road test steps... at least he had to... Me?... Guess, I was lucky. I didn't have to....

On a final and lighter note, I do believe the dealer Can't reprogram the ignition Key. I have this vague recollection about Nick Gage's crew having a problem stealing MB's and obtaining MB keys in "Gone in 60 Seconds": https://themustangsource.com/timelin...eanor/list.htm

N47-5?... I just don't believe it...