When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys been a while since I posted but I need a little help. I am looking to change my crank shaft sensor on my 07 Mercedes s550. I just hit 157k miles and the car has pretty much been overhauled by me both mechanically as well cosmetically. I don’t really see any diy writeups on replacing the the crankshaft sensor. I am more a visual person and tried to search YouTube for it but had no luck. I am looking for what tools are needed and where the sensor is. I replaced one on my Mercedes w164 and it was pain in the butt. If anyone can help me out with some info that would be great.
I replaced my sensor the only change is that it was a T30 screw holding my sensor . Also I was there I cleaned the throttle body. I was getting rough idling. The throttle body was dirty and definitely needed to be cleaned.
I had mine replaced about 18 months ago at my local indy shop. They don't have STAR... anyone know how important this step is?
After they replaced mine, from time to time, the car won't start (it acts like the battery is dead) but then you try again and it fires right up. The code says it's the crank position sensor (it was a brand new part) so now I wonder if it acts up because it was never initialized??
did you scan it with an obdII scanner ? If so the replacement of the crankshaft position sensor is very easy. You need to remove the airmass flow sensor. The boot the airmass flow sensor is in and reach down right below where the airmass rubber boot was . You will feel either a torx 30 screw which is what I had or E8 or E10 bolts. You are going to do this by more feel than actually seeing the bolt. You need to remove that bolt which holds on the crankshaft position sensor. Then the sensor pulls right out. You might have a faulty sensors as that’s really soon to be going bad. I have 157k miles on my car and I still had the original sensors in my car. I decided to change it for piece of mind. You should be able to do this in under hour. If you look at you tube they show a video of replacing the sensor.
did you scan it with an obdII scanner ? If so the replacement of the crankshaft position sensor is very easy. You need to remove the airmass flow sensor. The boot the airmass flow sensor is in and reach down right below where the airmass rubber boot was . You will feel either a torx 30 screw which is what I had or E8 or E10 bolts. You are going to do this by more feel than actually seeing the bolt. You need to remove that bolt which holds on the crankshaft position sensor. Then the sensor pulls right out. You might have a faulty sensors as that’s really soon to be going bad. I have 157k miles on my car and I still had the original sensors in my car. I decided to change it for piece of mind. You should be able to do this in under hour. If you look at you tube they show a video of replacing the sensor.
Yeah, read the code using a high end, SnapOn scan tool. I don't want to replace it, I want to know how important that final step is. As I might go back to my indy shop and complain that they cut a corner. And yes, I had them swap mine originally for the same reason, peace of mind as when one of those goes, you're SOL!
Yeah, read the code using a high end, SnapOn scan tool. I don't want to replace it, I want to know how important that final step is. As I might go back to my indy shop and complain that they cut a corner. And yes, I had them swap mine originally for the same reason, peace of mind as when one of those goes, you're SOL!
I know it's been 4 years since anyone replied to this thread but I came across it when I was looking for answers as to whether or not I needed to re-program or calibrate the Crankshaft Position Sensor on my W221. I recently replaced it and didn't have a problem. I in fact also replaced it on my W213 E Class and in the WIS repair manual it doesn't state that it needs to be re adapted by STAR or anything at all. So if you haven't replaced it because you've worried about it, you're good to do so.
the setup for "sorting a CPS" sits inside the engine ECU menus and it appears to be either utter rubbish OR if it likes a pretend tickle if you you disconnect the front battery
I have taken off my front battery three times in the last year and the car appears to run exactly the same - and I had changed my CPS without calibrating anything 8 years ago, and it ran just the same - then last year some bod says they should be calibrated after replacement (I thought he was on drugs)
but then not much later this year kevm55 posted info that he had played with his throttle pedal curve settings in the engine ECU. This made me take a longer look in the ME9.7 ecu stuff to see what's what and found under adaptions - calibration of the rotary sensor
One tweak I tried appears to have made a significant difference "throttle damper reset" somehow seem to make the Distronic Plus radar cruise throttle behave more normally (after the current spec R SAM software made it terrible) - now believing some of this stuff must pretend to do something worthwhile I tried to follow CPS calibration doing the road test procedure for a cold engine and couldn't get it to behave - only saying failed three times in a row... it ran exactly the same before and after
then a week later after a 5 mile drive I discovered you now get a different set up procedure for the road test - and its although utterly insane and highly unlikely it could calibrate anything accurately ever - two drive along pretend sequences came back saying happy - with coolant above 85C drive at 80mph in 4th and back off drifting to almost stopped 1500 rpm (click OK) then drive off again holding at 3k rpm in third for about half a mile till it says happy - get that right and it completes AND then runs and feels exactly the same
I then had the front battery off yet again (swapping the F SAM to the earlier better software), and when I went looking it claimed it needed calibrating yet again ! - did the same hot calibration stupidity and it completed happily - AND RUNS AND PERFORMS EXACTLY THE SAME
-
ALL this makes me think the dealer tool is not as clever as required - after 8 years slowly I find there is odd links between stuff "they don't seem to understand" - and where there should be pop-up saying you did this, now follow up doing that - but they don't bother... I was trying to look at the torque converter lock up stuff and nothing worked - then after I wiped the adaptions and other stuff out, other elements springs to life - it might be the same for the CPS, I couldn't get it to behave - but second attempt, I had reset normal and cold fuel adaptions beforehand - so is this yet another bit they forget - OR is the cold engine temp CPS calibration failure just a trick to make you take it back to the experts ?
one could think this was just Merc being clever (trying to stop untrained tech's working on their special cars) but I think its just deliberate criminal behaviour - there is no way a busy tech can remember everything and yet its VERY easy for a dealer tool to throw prompts on screen and would obviously lead to less cars going out the door under performing... so its not incompetence - its deliberate opportunities to send out older cars under performing - no doubt in the hope the owner swaps it out for a new one
the setup for "sorting a CPS" sits inside the engine ECU menus and it appears to be either utter rubbish OR if it likes a pretend tickle if you you disconnect the front battery
I have taken off my front battery three times in the last year and the car appears to run exactly the same - and I had changed my CPS without calibrating anything 8 years ago, and it ran just the same - then last year some bod says they should be calibrated after replacement (I thought he was on drugs)
but then not much later this year kevm55 posted info that he had played with his throttle pedal curve settings in the engine ECU. This made me take a longer look in the ME9.7 ecu stuff to see what's what and found under adaptions - calibration of the rotary sensor
One tweak I tried appears to have made a significant difference "throttle damper reset" somehow seem to make the Distronic Plus radar cruise throttle behave more normally (after the current spec R SAM software made it terrible) - now believing some of this stuff must pretend to do something worthwhile I tried to follow CPS calibration doing the road test procedure for a cold engine and couldn't get it to behave - only saying failed three times in a row... it ran exactly the same before and after
then a week later after a 5 mile drive I discovered you now get a different set up procedure for the road test - and its although utterly insane and highly unlikely it could calibrate anything accurately ever - two drive along pretend sequences came back saying happy - with coolant above 85C drive at 80mph in 4th and back off drifting to almost stopped 1500 rpm (click OK) then drive off again holding at 3k rpm in third for about half a mile till it says happy - get that right and it completes AND then runs and feels exactly the same
I then had the front battery off yet again (swapping the F SAM to the earlier better software), and when I went looking it claimed it needed calibrating yet again ! - did the same hot calibration stupidity and it completed happily - AND RUNS AND PERFORMS EXACTLY THE SAME
-
ALL this makes me think the dealer tool is not as clever as required - after 8 years slowly I find there is odd links between stuff "they don't seem to understand" - and where there should be pop-up saying you did this, now follow up doing that - but they don't bother... I was trying to look at the torque converter lock up stuff and nothing worked - then after I wiped the adaptions and other stuff out, other elements springs to life - it might be the same for the CPS, I couldn't get it to behave - but second attempt, I had reset normal and cold fuel adaptions beforehand - so is this yet another bit they forget - OR is the cold engine temp CPS calibration failure just a trick to make you take it back to the experts ?
one could think this was just Merc being clever (trying to stop untrained tech's working on their special cars) but I think its just deliberate criminal behaviour - there is no way a busy tech can remember everything and yet its VERY easy for a dealer tool to throw prompts on screen and would obviously lead to less cars going out the door under performing... so its not incompetence - its deliberate opportunities to send out older cars under performing - no doubt in the hope the owner swaps it out for a new one
.
Just replace the sensor and forget about it. No need to calibrate anything. That is like saying you have to calibrate the Camshaft Position Hall Sensors everytime you replace them or crank the engine with the sensors taken off the timing cover.
FWIW, I did have to calibrate after replacing the crankshaft position sensor. I had a no start condition post change. BenzNinja helped me get my car going again. Just my experience...I understand others did not need to.
FWIW, I did have to calibrate after replacing the crankshaft position sensor. I had a no start condition post change. BenzNinja helped me get my car going again. Just my experience...I understand others did not need to.
this must have more to the story - I can't see if it was plugged in OK how it could impact starting - on mine the connector pin bush housing disintegrated in my hands as I popped it off - 2 days and $5 a new plastic bit went on never had a issues since
09-02-2019, 01:32 PM
