When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just did my third oil change on the car at 55,000 miles, the M278 engine is running smooth as ever. I change mine every 5,000 miles and it still looks new. I have sent a sample to Blackstone Laboratories for analysis and am waiting to hear back.
if using posh oil that's only done 5k miles and you usually do decent length runs (most 10 miles or more) and the engine is in good order I doubt they'll find anything interesting to measure
the idea is you warm it up then do 140 mph trying to destroy it for 10 k miles then do a service - that why its got 8 litres of the stuff
I performed the annual oil change on our 2013 yesterday at 52475 miles.
I used my Mityvac extractor. With the top mounted filter I didn't even have to get on my knees.
We've enjoyed our W221 for 8 years now. Its getting old but spends every night in the garage and still looks and runs great. When its time to trade I can't imagine my wife being happy in anything other than another (newer) S Class.
It's a nice thought to change the oil so conveniently but you are skipping a proper underbody inspection. If you have to go under to inspect, may as well drop the oil from the pan which probably gets more gunk out anyway.
if using posh oil that's only done 5k miles and you usually do decent length runs (most 10 miles or more) and the engine is in good order I doubt they'll find anything interesting to measure
the idea is you warm it up then do 140 mph trying to destroy it for 10 k miles then do a service - that why its got 8 litres of the stuff
They usually don't find anything, however I enjoy the peace of mind it provides. Usually the recommendation I receive is to try 7500 miles.
Funny enough, US cars are limited to 130 mph. For a car reaching that so easily, I'd have expected a 150+ mph governor.
I performed the annual oil change on our 2013 yesterday at 52475 miles.
I used my Mityvac extractor. With the top mounted filter I didn't even have to get on my knees.
We've enjoyed our W221 for 8 years now. Its getting old but spends every night in the garage and still looks and runs great. When its time to trade I can't imagine my wife being happy in anything other than another (newer) S Class.
I've seen this recommended on the BMW forums, some have said that even dealers use this method. It makes most sense with Mercedes due to the oil filter on top of the engine. However, I prefer to do it the old fashioned way and let it drain for about an hour. I've also installed a magnetic engine oil drain plug, made by Votex, this go-around. Will report on that as well next time.
Uh, stage 1 I guess. I daily this car, too. I saw some feedback that someone put tens of thousands of miles on his M273 with an OE Tune and no issues. Good enough for me.
Uh, stage 1 I guess. I daily this car, too. I saw some feedback that someone put tens of thousands of miles on his M273 with an OE Tune and no issues. Good enough for me.
Yours is M273? They’re looking to be more reliable than the M278 that replaced it. However, I do love the turbo sounds and efficiency/power of the turbo engine.
It's a nice thought to change the oil so conveniently but you are skipping a proper underbody inspection. If you have to go under to inspect, may as well drop the oil from the pan which probably gets more gunk out anyway.
Good point, but this guy argues extraction gets out more oil than removing the plug. And he wears a very nice mechanic’s overcoat with a Mercedes logo. 😊
Also, is there a central front jacking point on a W221? I use a Mercedes specific jacking puck on top of my floor jack at the designated jack points but I can only raise a corner at a time.
Also isn’t there a bottom engine cover that needs to be removed to get to the oil drain plug or is the plug accessible?
I agree a thorough underside inspection would give peace of mind, but as long as there are no puddles, more than likely nothing is leaking and for the mechanical bits like front end rear control arm bushings, they make themselves heard when they are failing as I recently learned.
Suit yourself. With these cars, a thorough underbody inspection (with at least the main panel removed) every 5k is what I'm signing up for. Boots, belts, leaks, etc. Check shocks, wheel bearings, tires, everything. I have a Quick Jack and use an impact to buzz the numerous 8mm bolts out. Not too bad. I have come to realize that most surprises are completely avoidable. Case in point, I found the front right inner CV boot had a small tear and grease was coming out. I was able to re-boot the axle and saved it. Had I just kept driving, eventually I would have reported that "suddenly my axle is clicking when I turn sharply." Even if there is a leak or anything out of sorts, you can keep your eye on it and monitor for sudden changes in condition.
All 4Matic owners should be monitoring their transfer case output U-joint for play (my E63S has play, haven't checked S550 yet).
And yeah that guy - he's been around a while. I watched a bunch of his stuff a few years ago. I doubt the vacuum extractor gets more out than draining the pan. At best I think it could do about as well.
There is usually a central jacking point but I've never used it on my S550 due to having the Quick Jacks.
Suit yourself. With these cars, a thorough underbody inspection (with at least the main panel removed) every 5k is what I'm signing up for. Boots, belts, leaks, etc. Check shocks, wheel bearings, tires, everything. I have a Quick Jack and use an impact to buzz the numerous 8mm bolts out. Not too bad. I have come to realize that most surprises are completely avoidable. Case in point, I found the front right inner CV boot had a small tear and grease was coming out. I was able to re-boot the axle and saved it. Had I just kept driving, eventually I would have reported that "suddenly my axle is clicking when I turn sharply." Even if there is a leak or anything out of sorts, you can keep your eye on it and monitor for sudden changes in condition.
All 4Matic owners should be monitoring their transfer case output U-joint for play (my E63S has play, haven't checked S550 yet).
And yeah that guy - he's been around a while. I watched a bunch of his stuff a few years ago. I doubt the vacuum extractor gets more out than draining the pan. At best I think it could do about as well.
There is usually a central jacking point but I've never used it on my S550 due to having the Quick Jacks.
Preach. My Quick Jacks are the best "garage shop" investment I've ever made. I've done so many jobs on my various big body cars that would've been an absolute nightmare with normal floor jacks. Just did the thrust arms and control arms on my W222 and it made it a breeze. Plus the added level of safety(though I still put my heavy duty jackstands under the lifting platforms for added safety). I never liked crawling under my car on normal stands.
I performed the annual oil change on our 2013 yesterday at 52475 miles.
I used my Mityvac extractor. With the top mounted filter I didn't even have to get on my knees.
We've enjoyed our W221 for 8 years now. Its getting old but spends every night in the garage and still looks and runs great. When its time to trade I can't imagine my wife being happy in anything other than another (newer) S Class.
Just keep maintaining the W221. The new ines may not be of your wife’s liking. They are cheap built plasticky inside now.
Suit yourself. With these cars, a thorough underbody inspection (with at least the main panel removed) every 5k is what I'm signing up for. Boots, belts, leaks, etc. Check shocks, wheel bearings, tires, everything. I have a Quick Jack and use an impact to buzz the numerous 8mm bolts out. Not too bad. I have come to realize that most surprises are completely avoidable. Case in point, I found the front right inner CV boot had a small tear and grease was coming out. I was able to re-boot the axle and saved it. Had I just kept driving, eventually I would have reported that "suddenly my axle is clicking when I turn sharply." Even if there is a leak or anything out of sorts, you can keep your eye on it and monitor for sudden changes in condition.
All 4Matic owners should be monitoring their transfer case output U-joint for play (my E63S has play, haven't checked S550 yet).
And yeah that guy - he's been around a while. I watched a bunch of his stuff a few years ago. I doubt the vacuum extractor gets more out than draining the pan. At best I think it could do about as well.
There is usually a central jacking point but I've never used it on my S550 due to having the Quick Jacks.
Failing inner C/V joint will make a vibration felt under power that stops as soon as power is cut. Usually at speeds over 40mph. Outer C/V joint will click at parking lot speeds with some steering lock.
Lots to be ever watchful for as our cars age.
Modern electric tools will buzz all the fasteners off under the car quickly with less noise then air tools. Batteries now live a long time and are quickly recharged. Small electric guy that looks like a miniature version of my 1/2 drive air gun uses hammers just like the big guys and packs more punch then expected. Get the 20 Volt flavor.
If you can manage it a two post above ground electric hoist is not so much money. Sure saves the back.
Sure seems like like there is a centrally located rubber guy under the nose of a 221 to raise it from. I have always used a hoist except for the three years we lived in a home with a garage with not enough room.
Just keep maintaining the W221. The new ines may not be of your wife’s liking. They are cheap built plasticky inside now.
AMG cars are not the plastic fantastic found in *most of the S550s. There are some S550 models that got option boxes checked for very nice interiors. They will have a Designo badge on the cover for the ashtray/coin storage.
I had one briefly equipped with MBC. Nice car until I found the S65 with Carbon Ceramic brakes.
Curious on how much those Carbon Ceramic brakes cost to replace
126,000 miles and change. ZERO wear on the original rotors. Pads... 36,000 miles on them without discernible wear. Original pads went to 90,000 miles and got replaced just cuz. I’m not nice to the brakes. Stops from three digits and park it not nice. They never warp and don’t make a mess of the wheels. How many of you guys with iron brakes have warped them too many times to count? I gave the 221 S-65 a Brembo Big brake kit with big rotors on hats, broke them in as instructed by Brembo, cooled them down before parking.... Warped them to hell several times too. At least the Brembo kit didn’t fade like the OEM junk did. Two iron sliding calipers each front wheel in the range topper car. Insulting. That junk is heavy too. Iron rotors in AMG cars last 20-30,000 miles. They cost what? A carbon ceramic rotor is $2500 that doesn’t wear out. Hmmmm
A carbon ceramic rotor is $2500 that doesn’t wear out. Hmmmm
and one should expect ceramic brakes to be a terrible choice for a saloon car, especially one that is aiming to land a comfortable, easy, tolerable driving experience
whilst they have improved ceramic brakes are noisy, have a nasty pedal feel most of the time in road conditions and tend to have no brakes at low disc temps and are really only an advantage when driving a long way the other side of the envelope from those one should be expected to maintain on public roads - they then get progressively noisy and recalcitrant if you are only able to use moderately - becoming far noisier until your neighbours will want to harm you - and only come back round after the Stig has done a lap around the nurburgring
and one should expect ceramic brakes to be a terrible choice for a saloon car, especially one that is aiming to land a comfortable, easy, tolerable driving experience
whilst they have improved ceramic brakes are noisy, have a nasty pedal feel most of the time in road conditions and tend to have no brakes at low disc temps and are really only an advantage when driving a long way the other side of the envelope from those one should be expected to maintain on public roads - they then get progressively noisy and recalcitrant if you are only able to use moderately - becoming far noisier until your neighbours will want to harm you - and only come back round after the Stig has done a lap around the nurburgring
Spoken as one who has never driven an S-65 with Carbon Ceramic brakes!
Noise? In 36,000 miles of driving I’ve got to have pads out to remove dirt and apply a dab of lube to the ends of pads once. Better then I ever got with iron brakes.
Feel? Always a firm pedal. I’ve not done enough threshold braking in this car equipped with ABS and all the other modern tricks to need to worry about it.
They stop just fine from stone cold to very hot indeed. ABS from well into three digits can happen easily with cold brakes to hot laps. There is plenty of braking muscle there.
Your opinions tend to be on the money mostly. You are wide of the mark this time friend.
Homework assignment for you! Find one so equipped and partake. You’ll see.