Thinking about going nuclear--coilover from ABC
#1
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2008 CL550, 2022 EQB300, 2022 EQS580
Thinking about going nuclear--coilover from ABC
So I was replacing the upper control arm yesterday. WIS did not mention that I need to actually remove the ABC strut in order to get out one of the bolts holding in the upper control arm (just unbolting the top ABC mount and lowering a bit does not do it). I started looking at my 18 year old system, and thinking about how it is a time bomb--the question is when and how much, not if it will fail. I went to take off the quick release valve in order to remove the strut, but it's completely frozen in place. I've got the real MB removal tool. With PB blaster overnight, still will not budge.
Getting off to this bad start of not even being able to release my first line, I'm wondering if I should dump ABC. Anyone else done this? I'm aware of Strutmaster and Titan for replacement. Titan is adjustable which is nice. I'm concerned about the car's stability (and safety?) without a sway bar--can one be installed if I switch the control arms to the W221 type?
Any general thoughts will be appreciated.
Getting off to this bad start of not even being able to release my first line, I'm wondering if I should dump ABC. Anyone else done this? I'm aware of Strutmaster and Titan for replacement. Titan is adjustable which is nice. I'm concerned about the car's stability (and safety?) without a sway bar--can one be installed if I switch the control arms to the W221 type?
Any general thoughts will be appreciated.
#2
No ARB would be dangerous (FYI its a car not a skirt)
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2007 S600, 2007 Chrysler 300 SRT8, 2000 C5 Corvette, and 2017 Mustang GT, and just got a 2023 300C
There are Youtubes done by a Mercedes tech who did this to his SL.
In my opinion, I would not do it. You WILL need a sway bar from a non ABC S class and this issue is covered by the YT video.
My experience with ABC is good when I do the proper maintenance. It is expensive only when I don't do the proper flush, filter, accumulator and hose maintenance/replacement.
Let us know what you decide to do. Tough decision to make.
In my opinion, I would not do it. You WILL need a sway bar from a non ABC S class and this issue is covered by the YT video.
My experience with ABC is good when I do the proper maintenance. It is expensive only when I don't do the proper flush, filter, accumulator and hose maintenance/replacement.
Let us know what you decide to do. Tough decision to make.
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nath_h (05-17-2024)
#4
sway /swā/
intransitive verb
To swing back and forth
cars don't do that, they lean about an axis - AKA they roll, the ARB's job is to control the rate that roll accelerates and to resist it... hence
anti / æn.t̬i
adjective, preposition
opposed to or against a particular thing
intransitive verb
To swing back and forth
cars don't do that, they lean about an axis - AKA they roll, the ARB's job is to control the rate that roll accelerates and to resist it... hence
anti / æn.t̬i
adjective, preposition
opposed to or against a particular thing
Last edited by BOTUS; 05-16-2024 at 11:59 AM.
#5
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Okay, I will post back here what I decide. I have not yet reviewed the YouTube videos mentioned above. I'm going to finish the upper control arm today, put it all back together, and see if I damaged the high pressure line trying to get the quick connector off. Nothing quick about the quick connector.
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vettebk (05-17-2024)
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Here is the YT video. He has three or four more about each step but this will get you started. Keep us posted on what you decide to do.
#7
100kg weight saving - but he has it set super stiff and doesn't even mention ARBs?
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I would not do this either, but appreciating that he is making content to be sold to eyeballs on YT; I completely understand why he did this. If he gets enough views, he can purchase a new SL.
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Update is I knitted it all back together and started it up. I was finally able to get the strut out of the way enough to get the bolt to the upper control arm out--just barely. I put it all back together, and the quick connector was not leaking, as I feared it would. So, my ABC system lives to fight another day. It does have a fresh fluid and filter change. I've also got new accumulators on my shelf ready to put on. BTW, I have no idea how MB expects to torque the upper control arms to spec with access impossible with a torque wrench with the wheels on the ground. I tightened them back up to my best guess of 50nm, but I'm guessing.
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vettebk (05-18-2024)
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It is best to do a "rodeo" after a fluid flush and filter change. Maintaining the system is your best insurance against costly repairs. Glad you got it back together successfully.
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nath_h (05-19-2024)
#11
after seeing the video - and it making you think - its no wonder when a diaphragm has popped in an accumulator the suspension stops working....
does this answer the thread this week - my suspension has gone solid... https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...uspension.html
does this answer the thread this week - my suspension has gone solid... https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...uspension.html
#12
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sway /swā/
intransitive verb
To swing back and forth
cars don't do that, they lean about an axis - AKA they roll, the ARB's job is to control the rate that roll accelerates and to resist it... hence
anti / æn.t̬i
adjective, preposition
opposed to or against a particular thing
intransitive verb
To swing back and forth
cars don't do that, they lean about an axis - AKA they roll, the ARB's job is to control the rate that roll accelerates and to resist it... hence
anti / æn.t̬i
adjective, preposition
opposed to or against a particular thing
#13
stabiliser bar almost makes sense - goodness know where they dragged sway up from.... I see in the part list they wrongly call it a torsion bar... which worst of all as that's a spring!
#14
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They are made of spring steel.... The 'spring rate' of anti-roll bars is often set via diameter of the bar. I prefer making them adjustable. Or going without via ABC. Or proper springs and dampers as in the rallycar.