what is "spring control arm"
#1
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what is "spring control arm"
Due to a squeaking noise WHEN THE STEERTING IS TURNED LEFT OR RIGHT, the dealer recommended that I change "spring" control arms. Any one knows which one is this? I know there is an upper and probably 2 lower control arms. Any help is appreciated. this is due to squeacking noise when steering is turned while car is stationary.
Also, when I push on the frond end of the car, I hear a squeaking noise that is driving me crazy. The mechanic seems to be speculating. Any thoughts about what usually causes squeaking when the front end is pushed up/down?
"
Also, when I push on the frond end of the car, I hear a squeaking noise that is driving me crazy. The mechanic seems to be speculating. Any thoughts about what usually causes squeaking when the front end is pushed up/down?
"
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2017 GLE350 4MATIC
How many miles?
There are two lower control arms and an upper control arm. Plus knuckle (upright, spindle), tie rod and spring mount. Squeaking while turning would point to a tie rod end. Easily ruled out if it isn't the problem. Lift the front axle off the ground and turn the steering wheel left and right while listening for the noise.
Pushing on the front of the car and hearing a noise means the noise is not related to steering. There is conflicting diagnostic information in the original post.
You and/or the mechanic need to narrow down the noise to the exact part that is producing it. It will be a time consuming and expensive find-and-replace process if you don't do this.
Stabilizer bar (torsion bar) bushings can squeak at higher mileage. Don't count them out until you rule them out. They are fairly easily replaced. Beware that the dealer, and possibly indy shops, recommend to replace the entire stabilizer bar assembly. This is nonsense and expensive. Individual components can be replaced, if needed.
There are two lower control arms and an upper control arm. Plus knuckle (upright, spindle), tie rod and spring mount. Squeaking while turning would point to a tie rod end. Easily ruled out if it isn't the problem. Lift the front axle off the ground and turn the steering wheel left and right while listening for the noise.
Pushing on the front of the car and hearing a noise means the noise is not related to steering. There is conflicting diagnostic information in the original post.
You and/or the mechanic need to narrow down the noise to the exact part that is producing it. It will be a time consuming and expensive find-and-replace process if you don't do this.
Stabilizer bar (torsion bar) bushings can squeak at higher mileage. Don't count them out until you rule them out. They are fairly easily replaced. Beware that the dealer, and possibly indy shops, recommend to replace the entire stabilizer bar assembly. This is nonsense and expensive. Individual components can be replaced, if needed.
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Donnymac (02-27-2021)
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chassis (02-27-2021)
#4
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I vote for the stabilizer bar bushings. I have had that happen on other cars. Can I suggest bringing it to a quality independent shop that knows their way around suspensions? Or is this being covered under warranty? If so, let them replace all the parts they want
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Thanks for the feedback. Regarding mileage, I have 78K miles right now on it.
Can anyone share with me the best website to buy suspension parts assuming I can find the bushing, control arm or part that is squeaking ?
Can anyone share with me the best website to buy suspension parts assuming I can find the bushing, control arm or part that is squeaking ?
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2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Yes, the ball joints are part of the two lower control arms.
I like mercedesbenzstarparts.com Others speak highly of FCPEuro, although I have not used them. It's unusual to replace a ball joint or bushing individually, it's more common to replace the control arm as an assembly. More expensive, but faster repair process. Plus you get a new bushing + ball joint for the same repair effort. Bushings and ball joints are consumable parts and don't last forever.
An hour of diagnostic time in your driveway and neighborhood streets will identify this for you. Get an assistant to help you.
- have the assistant push up and down repeatedly on the front fender where the squeak is coming from. You should lie on the ground in two or three different places while the up and down motion is occurring, and isolate the source of the noise.
- lift the front axle on jacks or jack stands, and have the assistant turn the steering wheel fully in both directions. Listen under the vehicle to isolate the source of noise.
- drive the vehicle in your neighborhood with the windows down. Try to drive over speed humps or bumps that exercise the suspension. Turn the steering wheel from side to side fully and see where the noise comes from. Enter a driveway on an angle from two different directions, so that one front tire hits the driveway incline first. Listen for the source of the noise.
The above should give you 100% certainty which component the noise is coming from, if you are methodical about the diagnostic procedure.
I like mercedesbenzstarparts.com Others speak highly of FCPEuro, although I have not used them. It's unusual to replace a ball joint or bushing individually, it's more common to replace the control arm as an assembly. More expensive, but faster repair process. Plus you get a new bushing + ball joint for the same repair effort. Bushings and ball joints are consumable parts and don't last forever.
An hour of diagnostic time in your driveway and neighborhood streets will identify this for you. Get an assistant to help you.
- have the assistant push up and down repeatedly on the front fender where the squeak is coming from. You should lie on the ground in two or three different places while the up and down motion is occurring, and isolate the source of the noise.
- lift the front axle on jacks or jack stands, and have the assistant turn the steering wheel fully in both directions. Listen under the vehicle to isolate the source of noise.
- drive the vehicle in your neighborhood with the windows down. Try to drive over speed humps or bumps that exercise the suspension. Turn the steering wheel from side to side fully and see where the noise comes from. Enter a driveway on an angle from two different directions, so that one front tire hits the driveway incline first. Listen for the source of the noise.
The above should give you 100% certainty which component the noise is coming from, if you are methodical about the diagnostic procedure.
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#7
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Replacement parts
Don’t fool around, just buy genuine Mercedes parts. You can buy online. If you buy over the counter at dealer you will pay too much. At 78k I would eliminate sway bar bushings first, they are the cheapest, be DARN sure you reinstall with the proper lube. I have tested those by dousing them with a spray lubricant, not silicone. If it is the bushing squeak will stop but only temporarily, permanent fix is new bushings installed with correct lube
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#8
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Sway bar bushings
Be sure you get the right one. One is 4matic, one isnt. I would do the sway bar end links as well while you are under there. They make a click rattle kind of noise when they are failing, bushings definitely a squeak. When the get real bad, sounds like a duck!!!!
Excellent advice as well about trying to isolate with a helper in the driveway!
Excellent advice as well about trying to isolate with a helper in the driveway!
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chassis (02-27-2021)
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Do what Chassis said. Isolate the source of the noise first and then buy the correct parts. I had a knocking / squeeking noise in the rear suspension of my wife's Mazda. Replaced stabilizer bar links, lubed the bushings (cheap fixes). Didn't fix it, as the issue was the trailing control arm bushing. Once that was replaced viola problem gone. I am starting to hear the noise again. That is because other side needs to be replaced.
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The issue is that I have ZERO issues with vibration. Car runs as smooth as butter on highway even at 90MPG. The squeaking issue seems to be just a dry rubber type of an issue, and can only hear it from the outside when there is no noise around.
#12
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Keep in mind, as suspension parts are replaced, allignment issues normally emerge. If you plan to keep the car, spend the money and get it fixed right. Taken care of, it will easily make another 70+k miles.
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The stabilizer bar bushings are the first place to start if that is the only symptom. Its pretty common and they contract and expand with temperature. thats why they appear when cold because the rubber is contracted and give a little room for it to move thus squeaking. If you can get it on a lift, loosen the bolts and spray some pentrating oil in there by the bushings, then tighten up. If gone, thats all it is. I bet it stops when summer comes.
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The stabilizer bar bushings are the first place to start if that is the only symptom. Its pretty common and they contract and expand with temperature. thats why they appear when cold because the rubber is contracted and give a little room for it to move thus squeaking. If you can get it on a lift, loosen the bolts and spray some pentrating oil in there by the bushings, then tighten up. If gone, thats all it is. I bet it stops when summer comes.
Here is what the dealer recommended (see photo attached and numbers). I just don't believe this is what is causing squeaking. My feeling is that what causes squeaking when the front end moved up/down is one part, while what causes squeaking when steering is turned is differenet. Also, they are asking for way too much money for what is most likely a $300*2 parts + 1-3hrs of labor!.
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Typical dealer attempting to fleece the customer. Spend the one hour to diagnose it properly. Then order the parts and install them yourself or take them to an indy shop for the install.
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increase the rock and experiment.
Last edited by Donnymac; 02-28-2021 at 02:48 PM.
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Yes, this is how I detected it initially. Hard to hear, but when I park in the garage and lightly move steering L/R i do hear it.
#19
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I've had the same issue occur with my W222. The squeaking gets worse overtime and becomes quite embarrassing... I recently purchased a lower control arm set (also known as spring control arms) in which I believe the noise is coming from. Sadly, the lower control arm bushings aren't removable so replacing them was quite pricy. I'll update in the future once I replace them.
Last edited by Sean._.S; 03-12-2021 at 06:02 PM.
#20
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IMO you are wasting time and money to pinpoint the squeaky bushing. Fix just 1 or 2 and another will surface. Unless it's been babied, at 70+k, a front end needs help.
If your plan is to keep the car, bite the bullet and get it done by a pro front end shop. MB is not exotic.
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See below items that Dealer recommended (seems like the lower arms). I really can't understand how come turning the steering would cause this particular part to be the root cause of noise!!
See below items that Dealer recommended (seems like the lower arms). I really can't understand how come turning the steering would cause this particular part to be the root cause of noise!!
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How many miles?
There are two lower control arms and an upper control arm. Plus knuckle (upright, spindle), tie rod and spring mount. Squeaking while turning would point to a tie rod end. Easily ruled out if it isn't the problem. Lift the front axle off the ground and turn the steering wheel left and right while listening for the noise.
Pushing on the front of the car and hearing a noise means the noise is not related to steering. There is conflicting diagnostic information in the original post.
You and/or the mechanic need to narrow down the noise to the exact part that is producing it. It will be a time consuming and expensive find-and-replace process if you don't do this.
Stabilizer bar (torsion bar) bushings can squeak at higher mileage. Don't count them out until you rule them out. They are fairly easily replaced. Beware that the dealer, and possibly indy shops, recommend to replace the entire stabilizer bar assembly. This is nonsense and expensive. Individual components can be replaced, if needed.
There are two lower control arms and an upper control arm. Plus knuckle (upright, spindle), tie rod and spring mount. Squeaking while turning would point to a tie rod end. Easily ruled out if it isn't the problem. Lift the front axle off the ground and turn the steering wheel left and right while listening for the noise.
Pushing on the front of the car and hearing a noise means the noise is not related to steering. There is conflicting diagnostic information in the original post.
You and/or the mechanic need to narrow down the noise to the exact part that is producing it. It will be a time consuming and expensive find-and-replace process if you don't do this.
Stabilizer bar (torsion bar) bushings can squeak at higher mileage. Don't count them out until you rule them out. They are fairly easily replaced. Beware that the dealer, and possibly indy shops, recommend to replace the entire stabilizer bar assembly. This is nonsense and expensive. Individual components can be replaced, if needed.
https://www.mercedesbenzstarparts.co...arm-2223302301
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It’s possible, not out of the question.
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The stabilizer links are notoriously squeaky, very easy thing to try first. As others said, at 78k miles you are probably due for BJs and bushings, which come conveniently assembled in the various suspension arms. These and the motor/transmission mounts will make the car feel new again ... a bit of an investment but you'll be amazed at the difference they make.