When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
yours look very even. Pads just came in. The sides are slanted, wedged, maybe what I'm seeing is just the side wedge. Also small chip on ceramic, should still be ok? (On picture #3)
Last edited by Vanquish59; Mar 28, 2025 at 07:03 PM.
hmm, then I wonder why the strong crease noise when braking. Gna replace anyway, hopefully fixes it.
A LOT of effort goes into OEM brake pads being as close to silent as possible. Aftermarket pads will behave differently. Bit of noise when applying the brakes? Embrace it. You know what is happening. As for the photos of pads in the car.... I see none-zero-zip-nadda that is out of place in the least. Your new pads with a chip out of one? Non-issue. Just a dab of lubricant on edges of backing plates (top and bottom where they slide against the caliper) to keep things moving freely.
hmm, then I wonder why the strong crease noise when braking. Gna replace anyway, hopefully fixes it.
I've been away for a couple days. Your pads looked great to me, barely broken in. You hadn't worn them down enough to reach the beveld edge yet. Squealing noises can be caused by piston to pad vibration. The lubricant goes a long way to reduce those sounds. Mine didn't squeal under any circumstances until after I did the pad and rotor swap. Now, I get a light squeal from the rear brakes in forward only upon first brake aplication, which happens at the end of my cul-de-sac. Additionally, I occasionally get a light squeal when backing up. It doesn't always happen, and almost never after I've been driving for awhile. Like John Lane said, OEM's emphaize quietness, so you have a greater margin of error. The squealing isn't loud enough to bother me.
I've been away for a couple days. Your pads looked great to me, barely broken in. You hadn't worn them down enough to reach the beveld edge yet. Squealing noises can be caused by piston to pad vibration. The lubricant goes a long way to reduce those sounds. Mine didn't squeal under any circumstances until after I did the pad and rotor swap. Now, I get a light squeal from the rear brakes in forward only upon first brake aplication, which happens at the end of my cul-de-sac. Additionally, I occasionally get a light squeal when backing up. It doesn't always happen, and almost never after I've been driving for awhile. Like John Lane said, OEM's emphaize quietness, so you have a greater margin of error. The squealing isn't loud enough to bother me.
No clue what the crease noise would be tbh. Also I have a rough idle at the moment. I feel vibrations while idle, didn't have it before. Feel it at the peddle.
No clue what the crease noise would be tbh. Also I have a rough idle at the moment. I feel vibrations while idle, didn't have it before. Feel it at the peddle.
When you say "crease" noise, can you be more specific. It is squealing, grinding, or something else?
Vibrations could be caused by bad gas. I had a habit of using fuel/gas stabilizer in my mower, chainsaw, and pressure washer when I store them for the winter, not as much anymore since I'm using more battery powered stuff. But fuel stabilizer helps any ICE motor sitting around for a few months. Not sure how many tank fulls you've gone through since getting the car back, but definitely don't let it get below 1/8th of a tanks for a few months/tankfulls. That will give the crud time to dilute and spread out over time instead of in one instance. And this is also the time of year when formulations change from winbter blend to summer blend. Not sure if that's the case in sunny SoCal, but that's what happens in colder climates. It takes the ECU a little time to adapt.
When you say "crease" noise, can you be more specific. It is squealing, grinding, or something else?
Vibrations could be caused by bad gas. I had a habit of using fuel/gas stabilizer in my mower, chainsaw, and pressure washer when I store them for the winter, not as much anymore since I'm using more battery powered stuff. But fuel stabilizer helps any ICE motor sitting around for a few months. Not sure how many tank fulls you've gone through since getting the car back, but definitely don't let it get below 1/8th of a tanks for a few months/tankfulls. That will give the crud time to dilute and spread out over time instead of in one instance. And this is also the time of year when formulations change from winbter blend to summer blend. Not sure if that's the case in sunny SoCal, but that's what happens in colder climates. It takes the ECU a little time to adapt.
No grind, no crease, definitely a squeal, like that rusty metal squeal. Like a type of "errrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" when slowing down. I was thinking about bad gas as well. Maybe i should put some techron gas a bit, hopefully the additive cleans the fuel a bit. No cel, nttn crazy, but definitely slightly rougher idle and a whistle noise coming from engine.
When you say "crease" noise, can you be more specific. It is squealing, grinding, or something else?
Vibrations could be caused by bad gas. I had a habit of using fuel/gas stabilizer in my mower, chainsaw, and pressure washer when I store them for the winter, not as much anymore since I'm using more battery powered stuff. But fuel stabilizer helps any ICE motor sitting around for a few months. Not sure how many tank fulls you've gone through since getting the car back, but definitely don't let it get below 1/8th of a tanks for a few months/tankfulls. That will give the crud time to dilute and spread out over time instead of in one instance. And this is also the time of year when formulations change from winbter blend to summer blend. Not sure if that's the case in sunny SoCal, but that's what happens in colder climates. It takes the ECU a little time to adapt.
Sport mode noise appears while parked. 500-600 rpm
hmm, then I wonder why the strong crease noise when braking. Gna replace anyway, hopefully fixes it.
what I've learned on these AMG cars is that you need to be driving these cars and aggressively breaking routinely to prevent some of the squealing and creaking that you're describing and it may have nothing to do with what's going on, but just in general this is something I've learned. A lot these cars don't get driven daily, you may, but some people don't and those cars tend to squeal their brakes even if they're on brand new pads and brand new rotors. You can try some brakekleen in the future and see if that helps and then you can try rebooting your brakes and then driving a little bit more aggressively.
what I've learned on these AMG cars is that you need to be driving these cars and aggressively breaking routinely to prevent some of the squealing and creaking that you're describing and it may have nothing to do with what's going on, but just in general this is something I've learned. A lot these cars don't get driven daily, you may, but some people don't and those cars tend to squeal their brakes even if they're on brand new pads and brand new rotors. You can try some brakekleen in the future and see if that helps and then you can try rebooting your brakes and then driving a little bit more aggressively.
Replaced pads, seems like noise is gone but it's been only an hour of driving. I saw a leak on this part, the rubber part is ripped. Do you know what part this is and is this considered a wear and tear? The current issues on the car are a slight rough idle while stopped, a pulley/bearing whistle noise, the suspension leak, and hopefully the pad noise is done with. Besides that car is great, but seems to me my car performance is lower now, but maybe I'm just imagining stuff.
Replaced pads, seems like noise is gone but it's been only an hour of driving. I saw a leak on this part, the rubber part is ripped. Do you know what part this is and is this considered a wear and tear? The current issues on the car are a slight rough idle while stopped, a pulley/bearing whistle noise, the suspension leak, and hopefully the pad noise is done with. Besides that car is great, but seems to me my car performance is lower now, but maybe I'm just imagining stuff.
any clue? I replaced the pads, noise reduced a lot but still there. Wonder if this can cause that noise?
That's the sway bar linkage, also called the torsion bar linkage. Is that on the same side as you got hit? If so, the body shop should have replaced it, or haed it replaced as part of the frame/suspension overhaul. If the creaking noises are coming from the "hit side" you'd be best off to take it to thebody shop and let them diagnose it for you. If not, then I'd replace the linkage and see what happens. Not too expensive or difficult toi replace. BUT...it could also be the sway bar itself, or more likely the sway bar bushings, that are creaking. In my opinion; they should have been replaced anyway because of the load placed on them during the accident. Bushings like that will often be quiet when tested by hand and only make noise when under driving conditions. Just my $.02cents.
That's the sway bar linkage, also called the torsion bar linkage. Is that on the same side as you got hit? If so, the body shop should have replaced it, or haed it replaced as part of the frame/suspension overhaul. If the creaking noises are coming from the "hit side" you'd be best off to take it to thebody shop and let them diagnose it for you. If not, then I'd replace the linkage and see what happens. Not too expensive or difficult toi replace. BUT...it could also be the sway bar itself, or more likely the sway bar bushings, that are creaking. In my opinion; they should have been replaced anyway because of the load placed on them during the accident. Bushings like that will often be quiet when tested by hand and only make noise when under driving conditions. Just my $.02cents.
Nope, driver side. The passenger side was fully replaced. Ironically, the noise comes only from drivers side. Are these wear n tear items? I believe cpo warranty should cover. I see a visible oil leak on the rubber part, which is ripped. The pulley noise is the most annoying.
Last edited by Vanquish59; Apr 10, 2025 at 06:46 PM.
Nope, driver side. The passenger side was fully replaced. Ironically, the noise comes only from drivers side. Are these wear n tear items? I believe cpo warranty should cover. I see a visible oil leak on the rubber part, which is ripped. The pulley noise is the most annoying.
The torsion bar connects the right hand suspension to the left side, in order to decrease body roll in corners. What that means is anything that affects one side has an effect on the other side. If they replaced the passenger side, they should have also replaced the driver's side, and both sway bar bushings. To be fair, it's not something that is easily deteceted while the car is sitting still in the garage. But now that you know, you know. They technically "are" wear and tear items, but in this case the accident probably caused the bushings to go bad prematurely, especially since you see fluid leaking from the one that wasn't repaired. This is probably one of the reasons insurers are quick to total out expensive cars with complicated systems.
The torsion bar connects the right hand suspension to the left side, in order to decrease body roll in corners. What that means is anything that affects one side has an effect on the other side. If they replaced the passenger side, they should have also replaced the driver's side, and both sway bar bushings. To be fair, it's not something that is easily deteceted while the car is sitting still in the garage. But now that you know, you know. They technically "are" wear and tear items, but in this case the accident probably caused the bushings to go bad prematurely, especially since you see fluid leaking from the one that wasn't repaired. This is probably one of the reasons insurers are quick to total out expensive cars with complicated systems.
The torsion bar connects the right hand suspension to the left side, in order to decrease body roll in corners. What that means is anything that affects one side has an effect on the other side. If they replaced the passenger side, they should have also replaced the driver's side, and both sway bar bushings. To be fair, it's not something that is easily deteceted while the car is sitting still in the garage. But now that you know, you know. They technically "are" wear and tear items, but in this case the accident probably caused the bushings to go bad prematurely, especially since you see fluid leaking from the one that wasn't repaired. This is probably one of the reasons insurers are quick to total out expensive cars with complicated systems.
I forgot that you posted the repairs on a previous post where they explained the work in great detail. I'd take it back and talk to them about what you hear and feel. Since they replaced the lower control arm, strut, and steering rack, they know there was extreme lateral force through the steering and suspension components. That the opposite side torsion bar link was also damaged is not at all surprising. The repair shop will most likely agree. If they do, I wouild also ask for the sway bar bushings to be replaced, and if possible the entire sway bar too, but that might be too difficult to prove. It will come down to whether your insurance company will allow for the additional repairs or try to deny. They already did a lot of work on your car, none of this is surprising given the type of accident you had.
I forgot that you posted the repairs on a previous post where they explained the work in great detail. I'd take it back and talk to them about what you hear and feel. Since they replaced the lower control arm, strut, and steering rack, they know there was extreme lateral force through the steering and suspension components. That the opposite side torsion bar link was also damaged is not at all surprising. The repair shop will most likely agree. If they do, I wouild also ask for the sway bar bushings to be replaced, and if possible the entire sway bar too, but that might be too difficult to prove. It will come down to whether your insurance company will allow for the additional repairs or try to deny. They already did a lot of work on your car, none of this is surprising given the type of accident you had.
Im tapped with insurance, dont think theyll approve more, especially since i've had the car for about a month or two already after getting it back. The car, in general, is great. Runs fine, no issues, just....noises. The entire front was replaced, alongside the rear main seal, oil separators, and a recall campaign item. I looked up the CPO warranty, seems like it'l be covered, but who knows. If there was damage to the torsion bar, I'm sure they would've replaced, but I will definately try to push for it. Looks like parts and labor should be a grand if out of pocket. My biggest concern is the slight rough idle. No clue where to even begin. Wonder if a faulty idler pulley or a serpentine belt can cause a slight rough idle due to inadequate fuel/air. Also, the wheel lug bolts have this pos weak metal "cap" on them, and they get dented fast. Went to o'reilly to get replacement bolts. Have an appointment next week.
Im tapped with insurance, dont think theyll approve more, especially since i've had the car for about a month or two already after getting it back. The car, in general, is great. Runs fine, no issues, just....noises. The entire front was replaced, alongside the rear main seal, oil separators, and a recall campaign item. I looked up the CPO warranty, seems like it'l be covered, but who knows. If there was damage to the torsion bar, I'm sure they would've replaced, but I will definately try to push for it. Looks like parts and labor should be a grand if out of pocket. My biggest concern is the slight rough idle. No clue where to even begin. Wonder if a faulty idler pulley or a serpentine belt can cause a slight rough idle due to inadequate fuel/air. Also, the wheel lug bolts have this pos weak metal "cap" on them, and they get dented fast. Went to o'reilly to get replacement bolts. Have an appointment next week.
Ok, hope your warranty covers the other torsion bar link. You can start there and if the noises persist move on to the sway bar busings.
As far as the rough idle, I think I posted earlier about gasoline, but I'm sure you've arleady gone through a couple tanks of gas at this point. Is the car throwing any codes? Also, just double check all the air lines you can get to on the intake and be sure nothing is loose. Again, you might need to take it back to the mechanic and have them check it out.
I have the same wheels as you but mine aren't dented in any way, not sure how they would ever even get dented. How did your cap get dented? And what bolts are you referring to? Are you talking about replacing the lug bolts? If so, go OEM.
Ok, hope your warranty covers the other torsion bar link. You can start there and if the noises persist move on to the sway bar busings.
As far as the rough idle, I think I posted earlier about gasoline, but I'm sure you've arleady gone through a couple tanks of gas at this point. Is the car throwing any codes? Also, just double check all the air lines you can get to on the intake and be sure nothing is loose. Again, you might need to take it back to the mechanic and have them check it out.
I have the same wheels as you but mine aren't dented in any way, not sure how they would ever even get dented. How did your cap get dented? And what bolts are you referring to? Are you talking about replacing the lug bolts? If so, go OEM.
Definitely taking next week. The lug bolts, on the wheel. They have this weak metal cap on top of the bolt, dno how to describe. It gets crunched, dented easily, and since they prollu air gunned the bolts and didn't torque properly (150nm), it got dented, the top of the bolt. Took 45m to get it off. If they don't cover the torsion bar, is it worth paying out of pocket?
Sway bar end link should be around 80 bucks for OEM, I would just replace it. They are easy to swap. The lug bolts are call tulip head bolts and I don't understand why MB uses them, they are garbage. I would get a nice set of metric head bolts to replace them.
Definitely taking next week. The lug bolts, on the wheel. They have this weak metal cap on top of the bolt, dno how to describe. It gets crunched, dented easily, and since they prollu air gunned the bolts and didn't torque properly (150nm), it got dented, the top of the bolt. Took 45m to get it off. If they don't cover the torsion bar, is it worth paying out of pocket?
I agree with @superpop about the torsion link, shouldn't be too difficult DIY job and not pricey. Extra lug nuts came with my car, in a little box that also has the adapter for lug bolt with the special shaped head. All mine are original and haven't been damaged to my knowledge. Are you saying your "regular" lug nuts are damaged or the "special" lug nuts are damaged, or both/all? I prefer OEM for bolts like that even though I don't know of any stories about aftermarket lug nuts failing.
Rough Idle; your car sat for 6 months. Fuel, fuel pump, fuel filter, etc. You're in SoCal so no extreme moisture or cold conditions, but sitting completely idle for months can cause problems. Have you had a chance for an extended drive, 60 minutes or more of uninterrupted driving? Any WOT runs to see temps and hp/tq numbers?
Last edited by carlosinseattle; Apr 11, 2025 at 08:21 PM.
I agree with @superpop about the torsion link, shouldn't be too difficult DIY job and not pricey. Extra lug nuts came with my car, in a little box that also has the adapter for lug bolt with the special shaped head. All mine are original and haven't been damaged to my knowledge. Are you saying your "regular" lug nuts are damaged or the "special" lug nuts are damaged, or both/all? I prefer OEM for bolts like that even though I don't know of any stories about aftermarket lug nuts failing.
Rough Idle; your car sat for 6 months. Fuel, fuel pump, fuel filter, etc. You're in SoCal so no extreme moisture or cold conditions, but sitting completely idle for months can cause problems. Have you had a chance for an extended drive, 60 minutes or more of uninterrupted driving? Any WOT runs to see temps and hp/tq numbers?
Yes, i have had many hour long drives. Car runs perfectly. No cel, nttn. No issues driving, freeway, streets, etc, nttn out of the ordinary. I've punched it many times, all is well. No numbers. The issues are the noises.
Currently these are the four things im taking the car in for.
Strong brake noise coming when I go from 10mph to 0. The type of noise that have bad pads. I just replaced my pads with powerstops on the front. Before was noisy, replaced, still noisy. Drives me insane. Noise gets worse when car has been driving longer and hot. Creak noise. I guess I bedded them in. Can this noise come from a suspension issue? Bushings or the torsion bar? Surprised torsion bar wasn't replaced tbh.
Feels like a pulley or a bearing mimimimi noise coming from the engine. Like a tooting noise, something hitting. You can hear it on low rpm with comfort, sport, and mostly goes away with s+.
Slight rough idle, can feel in seat and pedals while car is standing still at a light. I put some jectron recently, hopefully helps.
Leaking torsion bar linkage.
Last edited by Vanquish59; Apr 11, 2025 at 10:13 PM.
I'd never heard of "Jectron" before you mentioned it. I looked it up just to see what it is. Made by Luqui Moly so good stuff. They specifically say good for carbuerators and port injection, but didn't say good for GDI. Probably can't hurt, but curious why they left out GDI motors.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
