hey guys so I bought a DCM from a salvage yard in LA, got the part in today hooked it up? and nothing happend I still have no power to door. Am I missing something? is there another DCM? that maybe needs replaced?

I replaced the whole module with all the buttons on them for seat memory, ventilation/heating, adjustment. Switched all that out and nothing.

So has anyone themselves replaced this before? is this just plug and play? If so did I get yet another bad DCM?

 

bump anyone??

 

anyone got any experience on this?? I know i cant be the only one with DCM issues on the W220

 

Talked to my friend who's Mercedes mechanic. He said at this point, it's best to have someone with access to the SDS (Star Diagnostic System) to see if the SAM can send power & signal to DCM.

You will need the SDS to do this, even the best scanner out there (Bosch...) can't do this

 

yea i think I might take the car to local MB dealer. but I was reading another thread where someone I think it was S500 man, but he took out 40a fuse and put it back in, and the DCM started working, and regained power to the door. So I am wanting to do that and try it with both DCM's. Maybe my DCM wasnt bad and I can return the other one.

anyone have any idea where or which fuse this is?

 

Having the model year of your car would be helpful.

You can find fuse diagrams for the '01 at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...e-diagram.html and one for the '00 at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...e-chart-2.html.

The print on the '01 diagram is not easy to make out; I did get some better results by opening the diagram (it's a jpeg) and photoshopping it. The 40A fuses seem to be 13, 15, 31, 32, 33, 72 and one I could not make out (located above the "A" relay). The fuses have their ratings printed on the colored portions (and all the fuses of the same ratings have the same color); they're easy to identify in actuality, but I leave matching them to your door components to you. Look for the things that the DCM controls in the verbal description. F13 may be a good start.

You can use the '00 chart by actually going to your fuse panels, reading the numbers of the 40A fuse locations that are maked on the fuse panel, and then matching them to the verbal descriptions. You could do the same with the '01 chart.

If your car differs by year from those, the fuse locations could be different.

The fuse diagram for your car is usually a folded page found in your spare tire well - sometimes wrapped around a tool. It may also have been removed and placed in your owner's manual binder.

I don't have any other diagrams except the paper one for my '05.

 

mine is a 00, I got ahold of one online, and there isnt a fuse that is for the just the front passenger door, and are broken down by seat adjustment etc.

Main thing I am concerned about is just start pulling fuses and messing up some part that I will need to take to the dealer for programming or calibration? anyone know if this is possible if I just start pulling 40a fuses?

also someone at work asked me why dont I just disconnect the battery? wouldnt that kind of be the same thing?

Thanks Zam and Skylaw for your time and replies

 

I don't know if the battery trick will work for the DCM; it has sometimes been useful in resetting other control modules. It would have the same effect as removing the 40A fuses. It may be worth a try.

Before you remove the battery connection or pull fuses, see http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...ml#post2216730 for useful information on all kinds of resets that may become necessary after removing battery power. They are also useful for re-synchronizing individual systems that may occasionally malfunction.

 

donjuan45,take the advice on the SDS trouble shooting,these cars can suffer colatteral damage by doing the kind of shoot from the hip techniques that you are considering.SDS should pinpoint the issue for you.also get the 'STAR SERVICE LIBRARY'dvd,this is what the dealer uses to trace circuits and locate components.i can appreciate your effort to be determined to repair your benz,if you had all the technical info thats on the dvd,you would feel much better about taking the car to the dealer,there would be no doubt in your mind that you had done everything that your tools would allow you to do.

 

will definately take a look, man I have never had a car so um whats the word integrated i guess...Thanks for the thread Skylaw...if I pull the trigger on that battery disconnection or start pulling the fuses I will take a look at that thread. Thanks Skylaw, you were a big help man, really appreciate it. i subscribed to all those threads I know I will probably use them at some point and time.

I know other guys have pulled the fuse wished that they would chime in.

But I really dont wanna fix the dcm issue and have something like my airtronic start going haywire so I may just bite the bullet and bring the car in.

Reason I really like to be as DIY as I can is that...#1 just the overall satisfaction...but here in des moines we have 1 authorized MB Dealer, they are on the otherside of town, and well they arent too much of an involved shop, my experience with them when I had my BMW was if there is something wrong with something, it means its bad and needs replaced, seems like they dont like to figure out what is wrong with something, or see if they can fix it.

There is this other big shop that only works on european cars, they might have it, they charge like $80 an hour I think. They are a little bit closer, I might just take the car to them, or call them first to see if they have Star

My luck though I will take the car and they are going to say we had to reset the module. Basically what I would have done in the first place. I dont feel like I have done enough to get to the root of the issue, but this time just like you said AH1-w I dont think i have the right tools...

unless those guys chime in that pulled the fuse themselves I think I will sched the car for this diagnostic sometime next week...i feel like I lost the war the DCM won hahaha

 

Most of these electrical problems, especially with early W220s, are really best left to the dealer. You may have a SAM problem or another module may be the cause of the problem. Unfortunately, the dealer's computerized test equipment (and training) is the only way to really know what's going on. Swapping parts, pulling fuses and other attempts at DIY is like trying to cure an infection with good thoughts because you don't like doctors. But these cars don't respond real well to Tom Cruise techniques.

 

yea I have a feeling this is not going to be a very DIY friendly car, with all the technology this car incorporates, and with the issues from what i hear mainly electrical, sounds like these diagnostic trips might be something ill just have to face.

I guess I just got used to it alot with Lexus and BMW, both of them I did just about 90% of everything on, maintenance, mods, repair. maintenace could pretty much be done with the tool kit that came with the car...Of course I have my own tools, but thats just how easy the cars were to work on. Really only times I went to the dealer was for Parts when I needed them, so I know the Parts Dept Crew

I think first lesson learned with MB, they are Dealer Friendly cars, I might want to look into a nice friendship with the service manager and techs over at European Motors, I think this car might be the start of a new friendship with them.

 

ill bet they diagnose the problem in less tha 1.5 hrs.at least it is not an intermittent electrical issue.yours is dead and that is one of the easiest issues to diagnose.

 

well that is just what I am trying to get to the bottom of, because I have two DCM's one that well went haywire and the other one that I ordered...neither one work which Is what is making me think that it may be something else.

I at least want to know if I was sent a bad part, so that I can return it and either get another one or at least get my money back. Use that $$ to diagnose the issue, but I dont want to send it back and it having been a good part but just something needed to be reset, then having to reorder the part all over again, then take the car back to the shop.

anyone know if these mainly are plug and play?

 

Whoover, AH-1W Cobra, and zam 2000 are giving you good advice. You had already replaced your DCM when I saw your posts for the first time (something I'd have advised you to see your dealer about). If you had gone that far, I doubt you'd hurt things much more by pulling fuses related to controls on your door. And, folks have successfully used the battery trick to accomplish some resets.

However, these cars are often far from plug 'n play. You'd make a serious mistake to think they are. The electronics busses are often connected to things you would not think of; and a problem indication in one location can be symptomatic of any of six other problems. It does take specialized training and equipment to properly diagnose many of the problems. Even if you were to replace something mechanical, it could require electronic adjustments (e.g., the ride height sensors after replacing airmatic struts). Sometimes, bus controllers must be programmed to recognize new equipment that has been added, so that all of the features function properly.

$80 per hour is not too much to pay someone who is truly knowledgeable in doing this very sophisticated trouble shooting. Don't forget - he may get to keep only half of that, the shop (which owns the expensive equipment and carries the overhead) gets the rest.

Because you bought your DCM at a salvage yard, it was likely sold "as is" - with no guarantee. That's pretty typical for used electronics. Whether you can get your money back is between you and the folks you bought it from, but they're within their rights not to take it back except under conditions they set at the time of sale. If no conditions were set, you're out of luck.

It puts a different perspective on $80 per hour and the price of new parts.

 

yea that all is true

the guys are pretty cool at the salvage yard they said I would get my money back if the part did not work...if not I could always put it towards another part, the car has the CL looking grille, wouldnt mind a OEM grille

But the car is in the shop right now taking care of rock chips, and stuff on the car. I will probably call berkley automotive tomorrow and make an appt for either friday or next week, as I am supposed to get the car back tom.

But I first will ask them if they have Star Diag...I am not sure that they do. I know that they are good at working on the cars but not sure if they have Mercedes Equipment like that...I think they do, its a pretty nice shop.

 

donjuan,

what was the outcome of the star daig? how did you get the dcm issue fixed? I'm having the same exact issue with my 2000 s500.

thanks

 

i got a s350 2006 model !
its driver seat is not moving front and upwards all other directions work fine !
is it a fuse problem ?
any help !!

 

Nishu,
You should really start a new thread rather than piggybacking on here.....
You'll probably get better results.

 

the dcm is plug and play,i just replaced mine on my 02 s500 and i just plugged it in and i was back in business.

 

who know where is located the fuse No. 10 is not marked there

 

Welcome to the forum, Mr. Szymanski.

You do not provide us with the model year of your car, or where you live (at least the continent). It can affect an answer.

Also, for both the '00 and '01 fuse charts in the link quoted, NOTE THE CORRECTION TO THE CHART IN RED. The original poster made an error in his diagram. The red correction makes it clear that the fuse labeling for the left front box should be F6 through F27. F10 is in that row.

 

I'm very apologise about it but that was due by my frustration ,I meant about Mercedes S320 cdi 2001 reg .