mbe2

Hello everyone again, I have posted here a while back asking about what could be the problem with not cranking of the car. I found out that my battery reads 11.50 Volts.
Now I know that is low and it won't start the car, but the car won't even crank. Is the car itself not cranking because of the voltage? Nevertheless, I need to charge it, but I am currently away from my home, so I don't have too many resources to use. For now I only have a battery jumper pack that has starting amp of 150 and peak amp of 500. The car battery has 800CCA.
What could I do in this situation? Would the jumper pack be able to get the volts enough for the car to start? If so, how long should I leave it on for charge?
I am not really sure what to do in this scenario, so I would be grateful for any advice you guys could give.

For context, it is an E250, 2013 model.
Thank you very much.

Arrie

With 11.5 volts it should crank. I have been able to start my car with that low voltage.

If your car does not even try to crank then as the first troubleshooting step I would check if the start solenoid at the starter motor gets the 12V "signal" when you try to start. If signal is there but no crank then your starter motor solenoid is bad and you need to replace the starter motor as the solenoid comes wth it.

If you don't get the signal to the starter solenoid then it is some other electrical issue that probably needs to be diagnosed with the xentry or similar scanner.

mbe2

same response below with a quote

mbe2

How can I check for it? Honestly I do not have too much knowledge about where specific parts are in this model, but where can I locate the starter (M271 evo engine)?
Additionally, is there even a specific mechanism that stops the car from even cranking to prevent further drop in battery voltage, or it always tries to start?

CaliBenzDriver

I dont think there is a low-voltage threshold that locks crank signal - See edits below... glow-plugs!


> You are doing yourself a disfavour by cranking on low-voltage:

-- The starter power is delivered with higher current that cooks everything in its path.

-- Marginal voltage soft-crashes computer modules and their CAN networking.

Having a Main battery low also drains AUX down to the same level. Charge AUX independently to prevent cooking its fuse.

+++++ E250... Diesel right???
ECU doesn't attempt to crank until glowplug controller is ready to get started.

This is not a low-voltage lock per se, it's a glow lock: No Glow = No Go.


> LOW BATT...
A new main battery will face the same challenges than the existing one. You may want to prevent battery voltage from getting low while parked or while driving.

If you decide to disconnect the main system batt, AUX if any will also need to be unplugged in trunk or dash. This is very effective besides using a CTEK float charger.

Sunnyslope48

Charge that main battery and also the Aux. When you're having electrical problems, it's always good to have a fully charged battery. Yes, many cars will start @11.5 or even @11, but having a full charge makes things work better.

mbe2

Hello, no, my car is gas, E250 cgi, M271 evo. I do drive it usually, but havent done so for a couple of weeks, and the battery itself is actually pretty old too.
Of course, I haven't tried to start it too many times because I don't want to mess with any electrical systems, but at first when I turn the key the car tries to start, dash lights go a little dim and there is a click sound like something is trying to turn over (definitely not the engine itself), but then it stops. When I turn the key again, nothing happens, dash lights don't even go dim. Only way to repeat the car "trying" to do something is to removing the key and inserting it again.

mbe2

I will try doing this, but let's see. I assume something else is going on, since the engine doesnt even try turning at this point.

Arrie

So now you change your story a bit. In the original you said the car does not even crank but now you say it makes noises and tries but then gives up. This means your starter solenoid is getting the signal and connecting the starter but obviously there is not enough juice in the battery to do it.

Have you measured battery voltage while it tries to crank when you first turn the key? It may be below 10V and that would not start anything.

Get a new battery first and when it is running measure voltage so you know the alternator works.

BenzV12

Why not replace the battery ? It's more than 10 years old and believe in me if it were a different car than Mercedes-Benz you should already have had to replace the battery by now . I know recharging also works but your car deserves a brand spanking refresh new battery

CaliBenzDriver

it's not leaking.... can't be bad
It's only just over 10Yrs.

By the time he changes the battery... we were all wrong... the starter toasted also.

MBNUT1

Just went through this not long ago. Car sat for a pretty long while, battery was 5 years old. Wouldn't crank. If I recall correctly voltage was around 11.5v. Would barely start with a jump. Wouldn't hold a charge. Had battery tested. It tested bad. Replaced battery. All good now.

S-Prihadi

Or get this kit....

DeanMassy

If your car does not even try to crank then as the first troubleshooting step I would check if the start solenoid at the starter motor gets the 12V "signal" when you try to start. If signal is there but no crank then your starter motor solenoid is bad and you need to replace the starter motor as the solenoid comes wth it.

mbe2

Hey again everyone!
I completely forgot about this post.
It was just the battery, got frustrated after a while so just called a service, replaced the battery.
All good!