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Let the struggle begin! Jspec E55 with some questionable history
I found myself rather drunk one dark evening in March, and somehow ended up winning a 2004 E55 wagon at auction in Japan. It was a bit tedious to sort out the logistics when sober, but after a 5700km roadtrip from Vancouver last week, I finally have it in my driveway.
I'm not regretting it yet, but I'm close.
The basics: J-spec S211, with the trunk loading system as pretty much the only option. It has 75k kms as of today, but I'm afraid it doesn't wear that too well.
Somebody spent a lot of money on it at some point: Gruppe M intake, Brabus Monoblock S wheels (20", wtf!), some sort of big brake kit that means I can't run smaller wheels, a fancy kevlar weave interior trim set that's horribly peeling, a fancy Japanese radar detector system, a fancy Alpine rear-seat display system, a very questionable red gearshift gaiter, E63 front bumper, and a set of Lorinser fenders with matching spoiler.
While I was driving it home, I noticed it was pulling to the right, the ride was terrible, and it reeked of fuel. I delved right into it today, and found a terrible mishmash of a fuel system, that due to a blown fuse was running straight from the wiper motor (which doesn't work) using unfused speaker wire. Lovely!
First repair was replacing the heater control valve, which was luckily in stock at the local dealer. Hopefully that will sort out the hot air from the rear vents. Hopefully I will have the missing pieces to get the fuel system running tomorrow, and then I can get the wiper motor fixed as well.
Last edited by tantumaude; 07-24-2024 at 09:01 PM.
following is a copy and paste of a PM I sent today to another member who is about to purchase a 2005 W211 E55. Some or most of it may assist you. A Japanese spec vehicle should be interesting.
-----------begin included ----------- Fuel pump relay is priority #1. Remove 40-amp relay and socket and replace with a 70-amp relay and socket. One wire at a time or do like one forum member did, and pay a stereo installation shop $35 to swap it for you (you pull the trim, however). https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...intenance.html
You can rebuild the supercharger belt's idler pulley for under $30. Use a quality bearing and not some cheap Chinese knockoff. I rebuilt mine three times before the aluminum wore enough that I purchased and installed an aftermarket pulley. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...uild-27-a.html
Complete (and I mean every size) of internal Torx bits. I once stripped out the head of the Torx bolt on the serpentine idler pulley. Very, very painful to get it out. All because I used a Torx bit one size too small. I didn't realize it until too late as I used that same bit to remove all of the other Torx bolts during the job. Heck, purchase new bolts (they are cheap) and replace at each serpentine belt/pulley service.
Consider replacing the supercharger coolant heat exchanger with a larger aftermarket version. Some cutting required to fit and a couple of the bumper bolts are a PITA but doable. https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...formation.html
Remember the electrical harness on the E55 AMG is not the same as the non-AMG cars. Fuel pump fuse and relay, oil cooler radiator fan (under passenger side front bumper), and secondary air injection pump relay are all in different locations than the non-AMG versions. There are even variations on the E55 AMG from start of production to end of production. https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...les-chart.html
Always, always, always, ensure the plastic cover is securely fastened on top of the front SAM and ECU and that the flexible rubber cover is over that. The hood vent on the W211 drains directly onto that cover. If covers missing or loosed, you will get water into the front SAM and Motor Electronics. I learned this lesson the hard way when working on my car with the covers open, stopped when a sudden rainstorm appeared, and then spent the rest of the day opening the Motor Electronics and literally pouring water out of the module, plus disassembling the front SAM to dry the water out of it.
Rotate rear tires side to side every 5,000 miles. The passenger-side rear wears the inside first as it is the one to spin under hard acceleration until the ESP kicks in to apply the brakes to that spinning wheel. Rotating the rear tires will earn you another 10,000 miles on the rear tires.
Don't be afraid to verify suspension calibration and recalibrate if necessary. Inclinometer app on cell phone, STAR/Xentry or equivalent, an absolutely level floor (use floor tiles under the tires as necessary) and an hour of your time.
following is a copy and paste of a PM I sent today to another member who is about to purchase a 2005 W211 E55. Some or most of it may assist you. A Japanese spec vehicle should be interesting.
-----------begin included ----------- Fuel pump relay is priority #1. Remove 40-amp relay and socket and replace with a 70-amp relay and socket. One wire at a time or do like one forum member did, and pay a stereo installation shop $35 to swap it for you (you pull the trim, however). https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...intenance.html
You can rebuild the supercharger belt's idler pulley for under $30. Use a quality bearing and not some cheap Chinese knockoff. I rebuilt mine three times before the aluminum wore enough that I purchased and installed an aftermarket pulley. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...uild-27-a.html
Complete (and I mean every size) of internal Torx bits. I once stripped out the head of the Torx bolt on the serpentine idler pulley. Very, very painful to get it out. All because I used a Torx bit one size too small. I didn't realize it until too late as I used that same bit to remove all of the other Torx bolts during the job. Heck, purchase new bolts (they are cheap) and replace at each serpentine belt/pulley service.
Consider replacing the supercharger coolant heat exchanger with a larger aftermarket version. Some cutting required to fit and a couple of the bumper bolts are a PITA but doable. https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...formation.html
Remember the electrical harness on the E55 AMG is not the same as the non-AMG cars. Fuel pump fuse and relay, oil cooler radiator fan (under passenger side front bumper), and secondary air injection pump relay are all in different locations than the non-AMG versions. There are even variations on the E55 AMG from start of production to end of production. https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...les-chart.html
Always, always, always, ensure the plastic cover is securely fastened on top of the front SAM and ECU and that the flexible rubber cover is over that. The hood vent on the W211 drains directly onto that cover. If covers missing or loosed, you will get water into the front SAM and Motor Electronics. I learned this lesson the hard way when working on my car with the covers open, stopped when a sudden rainstorm appeared, and then spent the rest of the day opening the Motor Electronics and literally pouring water out of the module, plus disassembling the front SAM to dry the water out of it.
Rotate rear tires side to side every 5,000 miles. The passenger-side rear wears the inside first as it is the one to spin under hard acceleration until the ESP kicks in to apply the brakes to that spinning wheel. Rotating the rear tires will earn you another 10,000 miles on the rear tires.
Don't be afraid to verify suspension calibration and recalibrate if necessary. Inclinometer app on cell phone, STAR/Xentry or equivalent, an absolutely level floor (use floor tiles under the tires as necessary) and an hour of your time.
Enjoy your ride. It's a one heck of a drug.
Thank you!
I'm looking at replacing the entire fuel pump assembly with something less chaotic and more up-to-date in any case, but that 70-amp relay suggestion is a good one. I'll be digging into the mods once I get it running properly, currently running very rough at anything over 50% throttle (due to the fuel issue I suspect). My goal is to get it at least on par in terms of 'thrust' with my two former Mercedes, a W204 C63 and a W220 S600TT. It is a fourth car, so it will be rather low on the priority list for now.
I'm looking at replacing the entire fuel pump assembly with something less chaotic and more up-to-date in any case, but that 70-amp relay suggestion is a good one. I'll be digging into the mods once I get it running properly, currently running very rough at anything over 50% throttle (due to the fuel issue I suspect). My goal is to get it at least on par in terms of 'thrust' with my two former Mercedes, a W204 C63 and a W220 S600TT. It is a fourth car, so it will be rather low on the priority list for now.
Great car!
I'm not sure what your budget and goals are...but I recently replaced my fuel pumps with the VRP Stage 3 fuel pumps upgrade...and am very pleased with the results. Comes with everything you needs so it's virtually plug and play, and should I ever get the itch to run E85, I already have the pumps in place to do so.
I'm not sure what your budget and goals are...but I recently replaced my fuel pumps with the VRP Stage 3 fuel pumps upgrade...and am very pleased with the results. Comes with everything you needs so it's virtually plug and play, and should I ever get the itch to run E85, I already have the pumps in place to do so.
Thanks! I've got the OE assembly on order...I need to get the car running first, then I can sort out the drivability, and upgrades will come after that.
Originally Posted by Sulaco
I know you didn't ask, but personally I'd revert the appearance back to stock. A white E55 wagon is a beautiful thing!
Part of me wants to (especially the fenders), when I saw the first pics of the car I thought the same. I have to say, it looks much, much better in person. We'll see.
Sorted out the dodgy wiring for the pumps, upgraded to a 80A relay as well. Unfortunately the gaskets for the sender and pump assemblies are delayed, so I still have the strong fuel smell in the car. Nevertheless, I've ordered a new fuel pump assembly (the 00-00)...but I'm struggling a bit to see which of the sender/filter assemblies corresponds to it. I thought it was the 64-94, but that one shows NLA now.
I had the wiper motor repaired by a local electronics tech. Unsurprisingly, it had a number of issues, which are all sorted and I now have wipers again!
I'm hoping to have the car plated tomorrow (that process has become a small nightmare too) and I can finally get it on a lift to see what else it may need.
Is the fuel pump relay in the estate in the same place as the saloon???
(also, cannot believe that level of fckery with the fuel pump wiring - that is downright dangerous!. Luckily, these cars respond well to maintenance - and I feel you're at the low point now with only improvements in your driving experience to follow)
This is what was required for my vehicle:
-211-470-00-00 Fuel Delivery Module (dual pumps) $411
-211-470-64-94 Tank Inner Module (actually filter and regulator) $489
-211-471-05-79 Fuel Sender Seal x 2 $34
-211-440-05-07 Cable Harness adaptor for filter/regulator $15
-211-540-07-00 adapter cable to dual fuel pumps $15 -203-997-04-81 foam cushion
Is the fuel pump relay in the estate in the same place as the saloon???
(also, cannot believe that level of fckery with the fuel pump wiring - that is downright dangerous!. Luckily, these cars respond well to maintenance - and I feel you're at the low point now with only improvements in your driving experience to follow)
Yes, I believe it is the same. Above and behind the right rear wheel, behind the subwoofer.
Originally Posted by bbirdwell
This is what was required for my vehicle:
-211-470-00-00 Fuel Delivery Module (dual pumps) $411
-211-470-64-94 Tank Inner Module (actually filter and regulator) $489
-211-471-05-79 Fuel Sender Seal x 2 $34
-211-440-05-07 Cable Harness adaptor for filter/regulator $15
-211-540-07-00 adapter cable to dual fuel pumps $15 -203-997-04-81 foam cushion
I replaced the gaskets on both the pump assembly and the sender assembly today. It doesn't seem to have done anything about the smell, but the drivability has markedly improved! No more cutting out on heavy throttle. I hear the line nipple on the sender often fails, so I'll take a look at that next. All but two of the screws on the two plates that cover these assemblies are just spinning, so it looks like I have some metalwork in my future.
In other news, I got the car plated today (temporarily, pending the safety certification). It looks like I need to replace the tires, but other than that the car is ready to pass. I'd rather go with 19" wheels, but I don't know if they'll clear the rotors (380mm RBB 2-piece ones in the front).
One other interesting issue that appeared today is with the wiper system again: when I start the car, the wipers move about 5cm up and down three times. I'm going to look into that with DAS, along with the immobile headrests.
Rotate rear tires side to side every 5,000 miles. The passenger-side rear wears the inside first as it is the one to spin under hard acceleration until the ESP kicks in to apply the brakes to that spinning wheel. Rotating the rear tires will earn you another 10,000 miles on the rear tires.
What can be done to avoid this? Rotating the tires is a nice little hack but how can we avoid the inner portion wearing early?
What can be done to avoid this? Rotating the tires is a nice little hack but how can we avoid the inner portion wearing early?
Removing the open differential and installing a limited slip is the best (albeit expensive) solution. Many a time I wish I had installed a limited slip diff in my car as soon as I bought it...
Pay no heed to the dead bugs or the huge number of wheel weights...
Calipers are stock jsut recolored from the MB silver. Rotors look to be two piece but no way to know the diameter without measing them. Since the rear calipers are not adapted easily to larger diameter rotors, the rear rotors are most likely stock diameter at 330mm. If the front calipers don't have either spacers between the original mouting bracket and the rotor or custum mounting brackets then the front rotors are likely stock too at 360mm.
Love the chinese tires on that car. LOL. Someone was balling on a budget. I too imported a JDM wagon two years ago. I'm around 25K into repairs on the car. But mine was super low KM and mint otherwise.
Calipers are stock jsut recolored from the MB silver. Rotors look to be two piece but no way to know the diameter without measing them. Since the rear calipers are not adapted easily to larger diameter rotors, the rear rotors are most likely stock diameter at 330mm. If the front calipers don't have either spacers between the original mouting bracket and the rotor or custum mounting brackets then the front rotors are likely stock too at 360mm.
The front rotors are 380mm, it's a RBB kit. The stock calipers are on a spaced bracket.
I should correct my earlier statement; the front rotors are in fact 400mm...luckily I was able to find some ex-CLS 19" wheels that appear to fit. I'm much happier with the look, the correct centre caps and some new tires are on order.
I'll be selling the Brabus reps too. For now I need to do a tuneup (belts, filters, fluids).
Last edited by tantumaude; 07-31-2024 at 06:34 PM.
Should probably be an 390mm setup, like I have on my CLS55. A 19 inch wheel should fit (mu AMG Styling 3 wheels fit). If you can find them, they look awesome on the W211 Wagon
Now that the car sits properly, I've got some more fixing to do:
1. Sort out fuel pump/sender mess. It appears I have some disconnected plastic lines and some red rubber lines in the tank. From my earlier research it looks like there were three generations of pumps and two gens of senders. Which ones have plastic and which have rubber lines?
2. Figure out a whining noise on cold start (lasts about 20 seconds)
3. Sort out the non-op headrests and replace switches
4. Sort out the windshield wipers (they work on settings 1,2,3 but the washer jets do not work, nor do I get a wiper sweep when pressing the stalk in)--I'm thinking faulty stalk?
5. Figure out non-op air bladders in seat
6. Cosmetics (mostly paint touchups)
7. Replace J-spec headunit (that's always fun...)
8. Fix delaminating interior trim; I'm very curious if anyone has any info on what it may be? Pic below.
9. ???
10. Enjoy.
Last edited by tantumaude; 08-01-2024 at 10:09 PM.
It looks like a carbon kevlar twill. It was probably quite expensive for someone at some point. If it is genuine, which it looks to be (as opposed to a vinyl overlay), you should be able to sand it back and re-clear coat it.
A boat repair specialist or a body shop could do it pretty easily.
How did your car pass the Out of Province when your cars wipers/washers don't work? Did you staple a $100 bill to the request? In Alberta, that is a instant failure. Along with the suspension not aligned, need to show car has spare tire or a tire repair kit etc...
How did your car pass the Out of Province when your cars wipers/washers don't work? Did you staple a $100 bill to the request? In Alberta, that is a instant failure. Along with the suspension not aligned, need to show car has spare tire or a tire repair kit etc...
R.K.
It hasn't passed yet, the list is partly I need to sort out for it. Luckily the drivetrain and suspension seem to be in top shape.
07-24-2024, 08:59 PM
