SL/R129: Oil leaking from Sunvisor hinge???
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
98 SL500
Oil leaking from Sunvisor hinge???
Apparently I have a hydraulic leak of some sort that is causing oil to drip from the sun visor hinge molding. Both visors leak. Does anyone have any experience with this type of problem? If so, what needs to be fixed and approximately how much?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
2dogs
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
2dogs
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 272
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
SL600 r230, SL600 r129, SL500 r230, ML320, C280 Sport, R170 450SL, 190e 2.3 16V (2)
Fais, I think you can expect a failure soon. Depending on how bad, you may get a lap-ful of hydraulic oil. Kepp a towel in your car so when it does let loose, you can wipe the oil up.
A new MB cylinder at an online parts house like buymbparts.com is about $140.00 delivered. These cylinders are EASY to replace.
Retract the top.
Remove the trim piece surrounding the latching mechanism for the top. It ios held in place with one phillips head screw. Once unscrewed, slid the trim piece towards the outside of the car, it may be stuck a bit.
Then slide the header, that those two trim pieces screwed through, by sliding it toward the rear of the car.
Now you'll see the cylinders. Pull back the retaining devices from the two hard lines, all the way off.
Remove the attachment screws and unscrew the piston from the latching asy.
Remove cylinder, from header and hydraulic lines.
Reinstall in reverse order.
The system self-purges any air in the system after a few cycles.
You may as well replace both cylinders - if one is leaking, the other will do so soon as well.
If you need oil, ONLY use OEM Mercedes Benz oil - it's about $11.00 per litre through places like buymbparts.com (I am only a happy customer of Rusty's - I am in no way affiliated, other than by the all the profit they made from me with my 6 older Benzes!) The reservoir is under the spare tire holder in the trunk. Fill it to between the lines on the reservoir.
A new MB cylinder at an online parts house like buymbparts.com is about $140.00 delivered. These cylinders are EASY to replace.
Retract the top.
Remove the trim piece surrounding the latching mechanism for the top. It ios held in place with one phillips head screw. Once unscrewed, slid the trim piece towards the outside of the car, it may be stuck a bit.
Then slide the header, that those two trim pieces screwed through, by sliding it toward the rear of the car.
Now you'll see the cylinders. Pull back the retaining devices from the two hard lines, all the way off.
Remove the attachment screws and unscrew the piston from the latching asy.
Remove cylinder, from header and hydraulic lines.
Reinstall in reverse order.
The system self-purges any air in the system after a few cycles.
You may as well replace both cylinders - if one is leaking, the other will do so soon as well.
If you need oil, ONLY use OEM Mercedes Benz oil - it's about $11.00 per litre through places like buymbparts.com (I am only a happy customer of Rusty's - I am in no way affiliated, other than by the all the profit they made from me with my 6 older Benzes!) The reservoir is under the spare tire holder in the trunk. Fill it to between the lines on the reservoir.
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Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Athens, GREECE
2003 SL500, 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
You might want to check out following helpful link - with pics at the bottom:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...ix-begins.html
George
++
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...ix-begins.html
George
++
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
1994 SL500
thanks for all the good info; it got me almost all the way through this job. problem now is that i can't figure how to disconnect the cylinder piston from the latch assembly.
is this where the 7cm socket wrench comes in? if so i think i need a thinner one, since the one i have grips the round part of the piston not just the flat, tapered neck where it connects to the latch. or should I be removing the pin clip assembly that goes through the tapered part?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
is this where the 7cm socket wrench comes in? if so i think i need a thinner one, since the one i have grips the round part of the piston not just the flat, tapered neck where it connects to the latch. or should I be removing the pin clip assembly that goes through the tapered part?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 282
Likes: 3
From: Bradenton, FL
'87 560SL Sold, '99 SL500 For Keeps
thanks for all the good info; it got me almost all the way through this job. problem now is that i can't figure how to disconnect the cylinder piston from the latch assembly.
is this where the 7cm socket wrench comes in? if so i think i need a thinner one, since the one i have grips the round part of the piston not just the flat, tapered neck where it connects to the latch. or should I be removing the pin clip assembly that goes through the tapered part?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
is this where the 7cm socket wrench comes in? if so i think i need a thinner one, since the one i have grips the round part of the piston not just the flat, tapered neck where it connects to the latch. or should I be removing the pin clip assembly that goes through the tapered part?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
The hydraulic cylinder is connected to the latch assembly with 2 Allen metric head screws. These are pretty well secured, so add some muscle to break torque on them to loosen. I'm assuming that by now you've removed the hydraulic lines from the cylinder by sliding off the retaining clips....don't lose them! Once this is done, use your 7MM wrench, and unscrew the cylinder piston shaft from the brass latch fitting.
With the cylinders removed, if you haven't purchased replacements already, you can send both of yours to:
Mr. Dennis Ficken
16285 S. Chester
Olathe, KS 66062
Tel: 913-390-0506
email: mainshipmed@sbcglobal.net
Dennis is a master machinist who rebuilds these cylinders. He did the front pair on my '99 SL500, first class work, rapid turnaround, and most important, no leaks after 2 months of top up and down about 20 times. Works like a new one! Dennis charges $30 @ cylinder + $10 shipping. So for the front pair it's $70 total. I do recommend doing both front cylinders whether the other side is leaking or not...it will.
Even if you did purchase new cylinders, knowing what I know now, I'd return them unused for a refund...you'll save a bundle and given the quality materials Dennis uses, mine really do work better than new.
Bob
Almost a Member!
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Laguna Niguel, CA
SL500
How do I know this guy is legit?
cgreenland,
The hydraulic cylinder is connected to the latch assembly with 2 Allen metric head screws. These are pretty well secured, so add some muscle to break torque on them to loosen. I'm assuming that by now you've removed the hydraulic lines from the cylinder by sliding off the retaining clips....don't lose them! Once this is done, use your 7MM wrench, and unscrew the cylinder piston shaft from the brass latch fitting.
With the cylinders removed, if you haven't purchased replacements already, you can send both of yours to:
Mr. Dennis Ficken
16285 S. Chester
Olathe, KS 66062
Tel: 913-390-0506
email: mainshipmed@sbcglobal.net
Dennis is a master machinist who rebuilds these cylinders. He did the front pair on my '99 SL500, first class work, rapid turnaround, and most important, no leaks after 2 months of top up and down about 20 times. Works like a new one! Dennis charges $30 @ cylinder + $10 shipping. So for the front pair it's $70 total. I do recommend doing both front cylinders whether the other side is leaking or not...it will.
Even if you did purchase new cylinders, knowing what I know now, I'd return them unused for a refund...you'll save a bundle and given the quality materials Dennis uses, mine really do work better than new.
Bob
The hydraulic cylinder is connected to the latch assembly with 2 Allen metric head screws. These are pretty well secured, so add some muscle to break torque on them to loosen. I'm assuming that by now you've removed the hydraulic lines from the cylinder by sliding off the retaining clips....don't lose them! Once this is done, use your 7MM wrench, and unscrew the cylinder piston shaft from the brass latch fitting.
With the cylinders removed, if you haven't purchased replacements already, you can send both of yours to:
Mr. Dennis Ficken
16285 S. Chester
Olathe, KS 66062
Tel: 913-390-0506
email: mainshipmed@sbcglobal.net
Dennis is a master machinist who rebuilds these cylinders. He did the front pair on my '99 SL500, first class work, rapid turnaround, and most important, no leaks after 2 months of top up and down about 20 times. Works like a new one! Dennis charges $30 @ cylinder + $10 shipping. So for the front pair it's $70 total. I do recommend doing both front cylinders whether the other side is leaking or not...it will.
Even if you did purchase new cylinders, knowing what I know now, I'd return them unused for a refund...you'll save a bundle and given the quality materials Dennis uses, mine really do work better than new.
Bob
. Did you just trust him 
, or was there some kind of security prodedure? Just trying to be cautious (I really don't want to lose my cylinders if I can help it 
). Has anybody else done this? Thanks for the info by the way 
!
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 272
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
SL600 r230, SL600 r129, SL500 r230, ML320, C280 Sport, R170 450SL, 190e 2.3 16V (2)
I sent cylinders to him. One even had the shaft scored. Still only charged the standard price. I sent him 4 cylinders. All returned and not leaking within 4 days from the time I sent them. Can't beat that service. I highly recommend him.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 391
Likes: 6
From: So California
2000 SL500
Hello. I do need my cylinders rebuilt (or replaced), and would like to send them to Dennis, however, I wanted to know what my gaurantee was that I would recieve my cylinders back if I send them . Did you just trust him , or was there some kind of security prodedure? Just trying to be cautious (I really don't want to lose my cylinders if I can help it ). Has anybody else done this? Thanks for the info by the way !
. Did you just trust him , or was there some kind of security prodedure? Just trying to be cautious (I really don't want to lose my cylinders if I can help it ). Has anybody else done this? Thanks for the info by the way !You have several options-
1) Dennis @ $70.00
2) Two M-B p/n 129 800 1672 @ $120.00 each
3) INDY
4) Stealer - I have heard $1200.00 total
Last edited by lynns; Aug 25, 2007 at 09:56 AM.
Almost a Member!
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Laguna Niguel, CA
SL500
Thank you!
Dennis gets rave review from everyone that has used him. If you need a wealth of information please see http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...er-system.html
You have several options-
1) Dennis @ $70.00
2) Two M-B p/n 129 800 1672 @ $120.00 each
3) INDY
4) Stealer - I have heard $1200.00 total
You have several options-
1) Dennis @ $70.00
2) Two M-B p/n 129 800 1672 @ $120.00 each
3) INDY
4) Stealer - I have heard $1200.00 total
ONE MORE QUESTION:
As my SL500 is my only driveable car (My 51' ****** won't really do the job right), can I drive it without the cylinders in the windshield if I put the hardtop on? Basically, is it possible to latch the hardtop on without the cylinders in the windshield?
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 391
Likes: 6
From: So California
2000 SL500
Thank you very much! Now that I have heard from multiple trustworthy people, I'll go ahead and give him a call. Any you live in Irvine? Maybe I've seen you driving around!
ONE MORE QUESTION:
As my SL500 is my only driveable car (My 51' ****** won't really do the job right), can I drive it without the cylinders in the windshield if I put the hardtop on? Basically, is it possible to latch the hardtop on without the cylinders in the windshield?
ONE MORE QUESTION:
As my SL500 is my only driveable car (My 51' ****** won't really do the job right), can I drive it without the cylinders in the windshield if I put the hardtop on? Basically, is it possible to latch the hardtop on without the cylinders in the windshield?
Last edited by lynns; Aug 25, 2007 at 07:00 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 282
Likes: 3
From: Bradenton, FL
'87 560SL Sold, '99 SL500 For Keeps
If you pull the cylinders you will not be able to latch your hard top. If this is your only car it might be wise to purchase your cylinders and do eveything in one morning or see if Dennis has a pair already done and can trade. May I suggest that you do a Hydraulic system fluid flush and renew after you replace the cylinders. The last time I checked http://www.oempartsdirect.com/index.php had the best online prices.
I was under the impression that the latches could be locked down using the top wrench in the toolkit; would you please clarify?
Bob
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 391
Likes: 6
From: So California
2000 SL500
Bob, the more I think about it you are probably right. If you pull the cylinders I guess the latches are still available. Didn't you repair yours? I would defer this to you as I have not actually opened or repaired mine. You might call me an Arm Chair Mechanic and I may have made the wrong assumption.
