Sergey84

Maybe I'm not helping a lot but I have a question and suggestion:
1) What do you mean by capping the quick connects? IIRC on all 4 corners there are quick disconnect lines that should not leak once disconnected.
2) I would suggest to find a place around you where they rent a lift hourly or something like that. It may help a lot. The downside is that if you work slowly (like I do because I don't rush) it may cost $$.

PS: I have a V12 and I'd like to know how to loop the ABC portion of the tandem pump because something tells me that fitting a PS pump (like VVK or something else) may be a small project of its own and my experience tells me that it's better to do one step at a time. So if looping can be done easily then I'd like to do looping first.

llcoolbenz

I wish you would’ve purchased Silver’s Neomax. 😢Anyways…..I don’t loop them. I remove them….the pump, that is. I prefer installing the standard pump. Regarding the plugs, they will leak slowly as gravity and residual fluid moves it around in the lines. They are quick release connectors that do not self close. They are open lines when disconnected. So you need plugs or remove the lines and bleed out whatever is left in place. If you don’t mind oil drip for awhile, then don’t worry too much. I do all of my conversions on the floor with jacks. One corner at a time. At the most, I lift one whole side up, drivers or passengers at a time. Use Jack and two Jack stands. Visit my website for videos and more tips.
www . Goldelementautoworks . com

Wrighteous

Hey! I’m a huge fan of your channel!!!!!! Thank you so much for your reply. I’m honoured. I’ll definitely reach out to you on Power steering pump. One more quick question, I’ve scoured the forums looking for additional jack stand points and can’t find anything. So obviously there’s the point at each wheel, but where else?

llcoolbenz

Thank you for watching my content….much appreciated! Regarding the Jack points……you can lift the front of the car (both wheels) up……if you look about 1.5’ (feet) back from the front bumper, center. There is a black rubber block Jack point. If the rubber is missing, there’s a metal joint/cross member underneath the missing rubber block. Also in the rear, both sides…..there are two big metal Jack points. One in front and rear of each wheel. Then the obvious (4) between the (4) wheels.

Sergey84

I got few quick questions:

1) This PS pump on your website it says V12 SL600: https://www.goldelementautoworks.com...00-2-1l-diesel
Please could you confirm it will fit 03-08 SL600/SL65?

2) What is the difference between this pump and the one that VVK sells? Here is VVK's one: https://www.vvkusa.com/products/v12-...5-s600-s65-amg
I see VVK's one doesn't have a tank and it seems they have custom mount, but I'm not sure what else is different.

3) BC racing coilovers J-05-BR for 03-06 E55/CLS55 on your website it says Front Spring Rate = 16k Rear Spring Rate = 15k while BC racing website says Default spring rates: F - 12KG | R - 17KG. Please could you double check this info.

Thank you.

Wrighteous

FRONT STRUT BOLT WON’T COME OUT! So, my struts are all failing so I bought a pickle fork, but I’m working off floor jacks and can’t get any clearance to swing hammer at it.
I also tried the “Mercedessoursce” shocking the control arm by swinging a hammer at it. So, same issue, can’t really get a good swing, so even though I’m using a 3lbs hammer, all the swings didn’t do anything.

So… here’s my plan, I think. Raise the car up a few inches higher and cut the pickle fork shorter so I can swing the hammer at it. Also wonder if I should get a thinner pickle fork?

any suggestions here?

Sergey84

Can you unbolt the arm (from both ends) which holds that strut ball joint and then simply remove the whole assembly including the strut and that arm?

brucewane

In this thread, @Aussiesuede says he used to pop the ball joint loose.

I got mine apart with a 4 pound sledge and . It took a lot of hits, and it's really frustrating because there is no percievable movement of the ball joint at all until it just pops completely apart.

Aussiesuede

Subsequent to making use of an expansion tool whilst helping a forum member with their coilover conversion a gentleman noticed us working under the front end of the car and heard us speaking about the difficulty of releasing the ball joint. He mentioned that he used to work at an import shop years ago and their secret to quickly getting the joints to release took less than 5 minutes and zero muscle power or frustration. Sensing he was simply angling for a "donation" we decided to go grab a bite to eat under the guise of taking his suggestion. Well low and behold, he was correct. We simply loosened the nut on the ball joint and drove down a bumpy road. The weight of the vehicle, along with the natural articulation, caused the ball joint to release itself. You can hear the slight clanking as the bolt wiggles inside the hole. Amazed, and happy to make a donation to the gentleman who'd made the suggestion, we immediately loosened the bolt on the opposite side and drove down the same road with the exact same result. I 've since helped 2 other R230 owners with their coilover swaps and no longer even bother with attempting to use a tool. Simply lessening the bolt at the start of a known bumpy road and the ball joint releases itself without issue.

Sergey84

Congrats!!! Interesting method of releasing the ball joint. But it's done! A finished job is a finished job.

Wrighteous

Wow. How loose on the bolt? Would you say to leave a 1/4 inch of thread or more?

Aussiesuede

You can safely loosen the nut half to 3/4ths. All the bolt is doing at that point is guaranteeing that the strut can't dislodge itself ( but Truth be told, there really isn't enough room for the strut to articulate itself enough to fully dislodge the bolt from the hole when the top of the strut is still secured, so leaving the nut loosened on the bolt as opposed to removing it is simply an Uber cautious measure.)

llcoolbenz

The Pump for the V12 that I have does for the 03-06 600 and 65 models. The difference of this one and VVK is the extra reservoir, that you do not need. And mine does not have the custom bracket. I have not sourced that bracket yet, in order to sell it. The BC Racing info that I have comes from the dealer catalog that is available to me, as a dealer. For the CLS…..I recommend the Silver Neomax instead. https://www.goldelementautoworks.com...c219-2004-2010

Sergey84

Thank you.

I still feel I need to clarify few things. So your V12 pump has the same fitment as VVK's despite their custom bracket, right? Is that extra reservoir on your pump needs to be filled or hooked to something?

And regarding Silver and BC coilovers - please tell why would you get Silver over BC and I wonder if both are fully rebuildable meaning you can quickly buy any worn-out components?

Thank you.

Wrighteous

Ride height question for all -

What do you think is the perfect ride height? Almost done Coilovers!

llcoolbenz

My pump is the same as theirs. But the bracket is needed for mine, which I do not sell. The reservoir is not needed.
Silvers is the better option due to the proper spring rate and better warranty. This option has been used for the SL more than any other coilover kit. Because it’s reliable and able to be dialed in just right.

llcoolbenz

Wrighteous

How many inches above the tire do you like? 1 1/2 inches? 3 inches?

Sergey84

Thank you. Please could you confirm its spring rate is good for V12TT cars? On YT I see many people perform installation on SL500 or SL55. Google says SL65 weighs 250 lbs more than SL65. I guess it's because of the engine and may be other components, but it seems the engine contributes the most to this extra weight. So should I select different spring rates for a V12TT R230? Thank you.

Tomcat SL

I do not have a measurement BUT here is mine:

Sergey84

Looks cool! Is it on coilovers already, right? I actually like conservative height.

Tomcat SL

These are Silvers Neomax and VVK sway bar. I too do not like a too low car BUT (I think) this is a good compromise and the fronts are near the max height adjustment (minimum adjustment threads engagement that I (and my mechanic/installer) was comfortable with).

Sergey84

Got it. Because the front wheel is in the shadow (I can't clearly see the tire) it actually looks like the front is lowered.

Please could you elaborate ton min adjustment threads engagement? I didn't get that... Do you mean it can't go higher beyond that height, but still can go lower, right?

Tomcat SL

Maybe the attached pictures will help. Also, you understood my point exactly. There was a weep/inspection hole or some sort of open machined port in one of the parts of the shock. (about 5 minutes into this video)

You Tube

I am not sure I saw this video before installation about 2 years ago so we decided that this hole should be about the minimum of thread engagement (more thread engagement-lower right height)...so that is where we put it. We then set the "rake" of the car based on the front.

Ideally (and according to the video), I probably would have liked (and it seems safe in the video at about 7:50) another 1/4"-1/2" of ride height BUT there have been no negative repercussions (and it looks good/aggressive to me).

Sergey84

Thank you! I think your current ride height is near perfect. Idk if going lower will give it a "too low" look like you see when someone slams their Civic too much that tires are already partially behind the arc. Like you said maybe 1/4-1/2" (at most) lower would make it absolutely perfect. But even now it looks great!