AaronEng

OK, I just replaced both larger Accumulators on the front and rear Valve blocks. At same time I also replaced all the O-rings on all the solenoid valves on both valve blocks. Flush system. Start car starts of level. Push the raise/lower button and or put in gear the passenger side drops immediately all the way down. Waring car to low. Turn car off and it levels itself? Seemed to be more the front so I was worried maybe I got the wires crossed from Drivers side to Passenger sides on the control valves (larger valve) (not the blocking valves). Swap plugs/wires. Start car and now Driver side drops immediately (warning too low) again if I touch raise/lower button or put it in gear? So I swap back the two plugs on the control valves. But the problem (dropping) stayed on the drivers side??
Any ideas???

I had the car on 4 jack stands level (all 4 wheels off the ground) but only the driver side wheels off. Before final assembly (wheel wells and wheels and back on the ground) I did start car twice to check for any oil leaks. Started it twice. Not sure if this caused a problem?

The original issue was turning car off and it dropped/sagged within a day. Also, any small bump or speed bump I would get the short ABC Warning (classic Large Accumulator failure). FYI both large accumulators had failed.

Rudeney

I seem to recall another forum member having the same issue, and it was the hydraulic lines were crossed.

moretech

I agree with Rodney above, something crossed up. Always good to use a drop of various colored acrylic paint on lines and ports to help keep'em straight.

AaronEng

Thanks guys for the response.
Since the hyd lines are so short and the hose ends are bent it seemed pretty obvious where the lines went. I will double check all the lines and let the forum know. Thanks!

AaronEng

OK. I double and triple checked all the Hydraulic hoses to both the front and rear valve blocks. they matched my photos I took before initialing the removing of either. so its not a swapped hyd. hose issue. But funny thing is i pretty much just lifted/jacked up the driver side first. after inspection nothing was changed, just a visual inspection. Jacks removed and car at normal or low ride height I started car and let it warm up. as soon as I pushed the ride height button now the driver side went quickly up (above normal high) and the passenger side dropped quickly. hit the height button again and the car raised the extra 1/2". hit button again (no lights on) car drops down and now get a red car to low. not sure why before I jacked car up this was happening to the driver side and now switched to the passenger side??
FYI when I turn car off it quickly adjusts to close to level?
Any ideas would help?
Also, I may try to manually bleed system (bleed ports at all four wheels). Do I bleed with car running? Do I bleed with car on ground or with all four wheels off the ground?

ItalianJoe1

You haven't rodeo'd the car right? There's gotta be air in the system if so.

Look at the actual values with SDS and see why they are out. try manual actucations, and see if one goes the wrong way, will tell you if you have a valve or hose swapped.

AaronEng

ItalianJoe.
Thanks.
Do I not have to have the Mercedes tool to do a rodeo? I have for two days now manually cycled the raise lower button a lot and now change. I will try to bleed system. just not sure proper procedure? car off ground? car running? does it matter which corner to start with? ect.

ItalianJoe1

The proper procedure is to cycle the suspension with the SDS to bleed it. The valves aren't for that.

moretech

I hope you will let us know how this turns out. There are a lot of postings in the forum about this type of repair but I do not recall one being this difficult on getting back up and running after the repair was made. Whatever has caused this it would be a good lesson for us all to know the solution.

moretech

AaronEng

OK I do not have the STAR Diagnostic (SDS) so not able to do a Rodeo? I am just raising and lowering the vehicle with the button. Is there a better way?
Also, this morning I removed all 4 wheels and used a jack on the bottom of the A-arms and compressed them as I opened the bleed valve at each corner. Wheels back on and obviously sitting very low. Started car and same issues. Driver side shoots up (like air in system) and passenger side drops, once up the raise and lower button is very smooth and normal. On the low setting I get the red to low alarm and it goes away at middle and high settings. It does seem like the front is raising and lowering more than the rear? again when I shut it off the car levels itself and I can see the rear dropping now.

I will post any solutions if I have any....

moretech

Be sure you have normal fluid level in the reservoir. Up to the full mark with engine off. I never have pulled the electrical connectors. Can one be turned upside down? (effectively reversing the connections but still on the right valve?) This is a crazy.one. Keep us posted.

moretech

ItalianJoe1

It sounds like you have a blocking valve swapped with a level valve to me, but I would run a diag on the car first before guessing at it. Not worth it.

phunn

My 2008 SL500 sat 'high' after a replacement ABC pump installation. And there was a suspicion that the ride height (wheel arch above the centre of the wheel) was diagonally the same, but slightly different front wheel to back wheel.
A trip to my 'Indie' and application of his 'Star' device resulted in a magical 'settling' of the car into a proper stance.
Suggest you try that route before anything more radical.
All the best.