JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Recently, my 722.9 7-speed tranny started to malfunction. The symptoms were that it would not downshift from higher gears when trying to accelerate and then not moving at all if I came to a stop. Turning the car off and on fixed the problem for a while, but it started to happen more and more and I considered it a safety issue. The code was 2205: Component Y3/8n1 (Turbine speed sensor (VGS)) is defective.

I decided to remove the conductor plate and send it off to Circuit Board Medics for repair. (I had bought the speed sensors previously, but decided I didn't want to tackle the soldering job or take any other chances.) In the process of removing the valve body assembly, the conductor board connector broke off. It is plastic and after 14 years, had become stuck to the tranny housing. Had I reviewed the Mercedes instructions first, I would have known to push the connector down from the top instead of trying to pull it out.

I was really distraught because I knew this job had just gotten more expensive. I had gotten quotes from the dealer ($2000+) for a complete valve body assembly and another transmission shop (Factory Direct Transmissions) for about $1100 for a new and programmed conductor plate. (BTW, Factory Direct Transmissions will sell you a certified transmission including the torque converter shipped both ways for $2995.)

But Circuit Board Medics were able to rig up a pigtail to the broken connector ribbon cable and clone the conductor board to a replacement board they had in stock. They spent a couple of days trying to download the coding from the original TCU and were finally able to. I installed it (carefully) back in the car and now it runs great--no codes or other issues. While it ended up costing $499, it was far cheaper than the other options. I can recommend Circuit Board Medics without hesitation--they were awesome.

NOTE: I have a first generation transmission valve body assembly. I think there are about four generations. 1st gens are NOT compatible with the later generations. I believe the solenoids are different or something. Be aware of this if you try to replace any parts.

Rudeney

FYI, I also once broke the electrical connector like that even though i was being super-careful. That seal can be a real PITA. I was able to repair the plastic collar with JB Weld and I re-soldered the pins to the Mylar ribbon cable.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Rudeney

Rovel

I am having the same issue and torn between sending my conductor plate to Circuit Board Medics for repair vs buying a new one. Repair is 350 bucks when new part + labor is 1200. How is yours holding? Would you recommend repairs?

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Interesting you ask. I’ve got almost 20,000 miles on the repaired conductor plate and just got P2201 code. Circuit Board Medics is going to repair the speed sensor under warranty, but I’m going to have the dealer do it this time. They’ll put in a new plate and make sure the software is up to date, etc. plus, if I have any problems, I go back to the dealer. I am going to have CBM repair the “old” plate so I have a spare.

$1200 is the price the dealer quoted me. My main reason for going to the dealer this time is that I don’t have easy access to my lift at the moment or time to really do it. Otherwise, I would just send the conductor plate off to CBM and wait for it.

Rovel

Thanks for letting me know. I think it is not worth the repair then. My dealer asks for $1600, but independent shop wants $1100. I will use the independent shop. If I had a lift I would have done it myself.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

To be clear, I’m really happy with Circuit Board Medics and would use them again if I had the time to pull the valve body and conductor plate. But my personal circumstances don’t let me do that at this time.

Rovel

I mean you could be happy with them, but it is indicative of uselessness of repair vs new, isn’t it?

Rovel

My transmission acted up really badly yesterday and went into limp mode. I couldn't even start the car or put it in neutral. I towed it to a repair facility. I just got a call from the repair facility specializing in German cars. They say that the control module in valve body has failed. According to them the valve body on W211 E63s has control module in it and I will need a new valve body and conductor plate. Does it sound legit? Could control unit fail? Any thoughts?

Agent-A01

Valve bodys don't just fail; they can have some wear and tear inside them from valves wearing on the insides but that is rare.

Most likely you have an early valvebody and they are wanting to buy the latest conductor and valvebody that are compatible with each other.

Rovel

That is why I am not understanding them. He claims that the control module is inside the valve body and just replacing the conductor plate will do no good. According to him E63s have control modules inside the valve body, when other E classes don't. Not sure whether I should take the car somewhere else or have them to replace it for 1800USD.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

The valve body probably didn’t fail. And it’s probably the conductor plate. However you cannot buy a replacement conductor plate separately from the valve body from Mercedes.

Therefore, you have to buy the conductor plate and valve body assembly which cost about $1800 for parts and labor.

Alternatively, pull the conductor plate and send it off for repair.

The $1800 should cover approximately 4 1/2 hours of labor plus a tranny fluid drain and fill as well.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

My transmission fixed through the dealer was $1659, but I provided my own transmission service kit (from FCP Euro), so they backed out that cost. Lastly, Mercedes won’t sell you the part directly. If you get something used off eBay, it will still need to be SCN coded.

Rovel

These guys were very clear that it was the control unit that is supposedly inside the valve body that's failed. I have VGS2 and was hopeful that the conductor plate could be replaced separately. But they keep saying that replacing or repairing the conductor plate won't do the trick as valve body is faulty. Super confusing....

E63007

I took out my 07’ E63 Valve Body/Conductor Plate. In the picture above, you’ll see the Valve Body underneath/below the Conductor Plate which holds both the Solenoids Right &Left and the TCU permanently mounted to it right in the middle. When you remove the Pan, you’ll see the underside of the valve body (ie-the side which is face down in the baking pan in pic). Only after removing the Filter and then the Valve Body/Conductor Plate (which requires removing some 18-20 mini Torx screws) as a unit will you then see the TCU above as it has all the serial #s on it and is labeled VGS2-NAG2. You’ll also see in the pic that I had already removed one of the Solinoid brackets when I took this pic. The TCU is not removable by itself as it is mounted on top of the Conductor Plate, if you will, and this Conductor Plate can be disconnected from the Valve Body by unscrewing the larger Torx Screws which are obvious. Electronically, it is accessed via the “Electrical Connector” Located on the passenger side forward (or lower left side in picture above) and one must disconnect this before removing the Pan, IIRC. The Conductor Plate, as such, is not separately located in the Passenger Footwell like it is in later models, and the TCU is certainly NOT located “in” the valve body.