SL/R230: ABC Reservoir Overflowing After Fluid Exchange-Air? How?
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From: Lincolnshire, IL
2005 SL55 AMG
ABC Reservoir Overflowing After Fluid Exchange-Air? How?
Hi folks. I purchased my '05 R230, 55k miles, in February and promptly had my Indy do an ABC fluid & filter change including Star rodeo. Car has been great since. Having since put some miles on, I decided the other day to do an ABC reservoir fluid exchange (no new filter), understanding that it's only a little of system capacity. In removing appx. 24oz of CHF 11S (a little dirty, but not too bad), I refilled with clean fluid to the full dipstick level. After a lengthy drive, I checked the level later that evening. Fluid had spewed all over from the reservoir and the level was lower, but not crazy low. It appears (I think) I inadvertently introduced air to the system when changing out the fluid from the reservoir. How could this have happened? I filled to full again. The next day, I checked the fluid level (still full) and went for a drive. Upon returning, the same thing happened again. I clearly can't get the air pocket out. Any recommendations to fix at this point before limping to my Indy? I don't have Star. Thanks in advance for your input.
I had the same thing happen to me last week. I went to two different Indy mechanics and they both said that after doing a rodeo the reservoir overflowed.
The second mechanic specializes in Mercedes and I trust their work. He said it could be the accumulator which is the same thing the first Mechanic told me but he told me he would have to open it up to check by inserting a stick or something into the accumulator to see if it’s bad.
another member of this form said you can check to see if your accumulators are bad using SDS. If this is possible I’m not sure why my mechanic did not do this. We both decided to leave it alone since everything is working properly and no error codes are being returned. He said let’s not throw parts at it and just wait
The second mechanic specializes in Mercedes and I trust their work. He said it could be the accumulator which is the same thing the first Mechanic told me but he told me he would have to open it up to check by inserting a stick or something into the accumulator to see if it’s bad.
another member of this form said you can check to see if your accumulators are bad using SDS. If this is possible I’m not sure why my mechanic did not do this. We both decided to leave it alone since everything is working properly and no error codes are being returned. He said let’s not throw parts at it and just wait
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Have you checked your fluid with the engine running? The level should drop to the lower mark on the dipstick as the accumulators fill. If you don't get any drop, or not that much drop, it is an indication that you have one or more bad accumulators.
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Thread Starter
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From: Lincolnshire, IL
2005 SL55 AMG
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 280
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From: Lincolnshire, IL
2005 SL55 AMG
SO, my Indy (MB specialist) came back with an assessment: At least one accumulator is bad. Due to age of the components (2005), he recommends changing both of the smaller accumulators as well as pulsation dampeners. Those items, plus filter, fluid and rodeo = $2600. I don’t have an SDS. I could probably get all parts plus an SDS setup for @ $1000, but worry about screwing something up.
Last edited by poppyboy; Aug 27, 2020 at 05:09 PM.
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From: Atlanta, unfortunately
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This thread illustrates how some of us find an R230 inexpensive to own, while others find it a money pit.
I should probably check to be certain before typing this -- I'm sure you need Star Diagnosis to change the accumulators or pulsation dampener. And I don't think you I don't think it's possible to screw something up.
In a day or two I'll be replacing an accumulator on a car that was manufactured in 2002. It has 127,000 miles, and likely all accumulators and pulsation dampener are original. So contrary to a popular belief, these components generally last considerably longer than 10 years or 50,000 miles.
On a 2005 car I personally would only replace the accumulator which has failed. If you do not know which one that is, then guess; if you guess right your done, otherwise you replace the other accumulator. And since I presume your don't hear sounds coming from the left-side engine compartment with the engine between 2000 and 3000 RPMs, then I would leave the pulsation dampener alone. Cost of the repair with this advice if you do it yourself: c. $100-$200.
I should probably check to be certain before typing this -- I'm sure you need Star Diagnosis to change the accumulators or pulsation dampener. And I don't think you I don't think it's possible to screw something up.
In a day or two I'll be replacing an accumulator on a car that was manufactured in 2002. It has 127,000 miles, and likely all accumulators and pulsation dampener are original. So contrary to a popular belief, these components generally last considerably longer than 10 years or 50,000 miles.
On a 2005 car I personally would only replace the accumulator which has failed. If you do not know which one that is, then guess; if you guess right your done, otherwise you replace the other accumulator. And since I presume your don't hear sounds coming from the left-side engine compartment with the engine between 2000 and 3000 RPMs, then I would leave the pulsation dampener alone. Cost of the repair with this advice if you do it yourself: c. $100-$200.
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Thanks for the feedback. There are sounds coming from the engine compartment, too, which my Indy feels is likely a PD going bad. His approach is “while you’re in there”, although removing a wheel and fender liner is hardly tantamount to pulling a transmission to do an IMS bearing while doing a clutch. Anyway, my reluctance is that I’ve read that SDS is required to change these components to properly flush and ensure proper bleeding. Between that and breaking a line, those are my DIY concerns. I’ve done plenty other DIY items (VCG, rear gear oil, etc) but the ABC system kinda freaks me out.
ABC work is actually not that bad if you have a good way of getting the whole car off the ground and supported.
I've replaced a hose, filter, fluid, all the accumulators and the pulsation damper, and worked on the valve blocks without any major disaster. If you can do basic maintenance (and it sounds like you can), I’d go for it. You will need the right tools! Don’t half *** it and round off or strip a fitting using the wrong tools.
Start with doing the pulsation damper and if all goes well, tackle the other bits. Replace your alarm siren while you’re in there.
I've replaced a hose, filter, fluid, all the accumulators and the pulsation damper, and worked on the valve blocks without any major disaster. If you can do basic maintenance (and it sounds like you can), I’d go for it. You will need the right tools! Don’t half *** it and round off or strip a fitting using the wrong tools.
Start with doing the pulsation damper and if all goes well, tackle the other bits. Replace your alarm siren while you’re in there.
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From: Lincolnshire, IL
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Thanks for the feedback. The alarm siren was one of the first things I replaced when I purchased the car back in February. I feel like a total wuss not tackling this ABC job, but again I am concerned about introducing air in the system and not having an SDS to be able to run the program, etc. did you replace all of these components without running a rodeo?
Yes, I think this whole “air in the system” thing is largely nonsense. Even the Mercedes WIS work instructions say you can just raise/lower the car with the center console button 10+ times after performing work on the system instead of a rodeo.
With that being said, life was good for me after replacing the accumulators and pulsation damper without using SDS/rodeo. However, I really caused problems when I changed the fluid which must have dislodged particles that caused my valve blocks to malfunction...and is still not 100% resolved as the front of my car still sags slightly while the car is parked. I’ve rebuilt valve blocks, I’ve even replaced one valve block with a new OEM one $$$, I bought an SDS and have done tons of troubleshooting and rodeos, even had another fluid flush and filter change performed by one of the most reputable Benz Indy shops in all of Southern California....and I’m still worse off than when I bought the car with a seemingly untouched ABC system at the end of last year.
This isn’t my first old german car, I replaced the pulsation damper and accumulators right after I bought it as preventative maintenance to help prevent ruptured hoses, nothing was actually wrong.
So, based on my experience I bet you will be fine replacing these parts, even without an SDS system. I also believe that it is necessary to preserve the life of the other components by changing the fluid...but doing so might open a massive can of worms. If your car survived the fluid change without issue, you’re probably in good shape.
With that being said, life was good for me after replacing the accumulators and pulsation damper without using SDS/rodeo. However, I really caused problems when I changed the fluid which must have dislodged particles that caused my valve blocks to malfunction...and is still not 100% resolved as the front of my car still sags slightly while the car is parked. I’ve rebuilt valve blocks, I’ve even replaced one valve block with a new OEM one $$$, I bought an SDS and have done tons of troubleshooting and rodeos, even had another fluid flush and filter change performed by one of the most reputable Benz Indy shops in all of Southern California....and I’m still worse off than when I bought the car with a seemingly untouched ABC system at the end of last year.
This isn’t my first old german car, I replaced the pulsation damper and accumulators right after I bought it as preventative maintenance to help prevent ruptured hoses, nothing was actually wrong.
So, based on my experience I bet you will be fine replacing these parts, even without an SDS system. I also believe that it is necessary to preserve the life of the other components by changing the fluid...but doing so might open a massive can of worms. If your car survived the fluid change without issue, you’re probably in good shape.
Last edited by sivikvtec; Aug 28, 2020 at 12:06 AM.
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If the ABC pump is replaced there is a specific bleeding procedure. Apart from that, ABC is self-bleeding through the course of a short drive. So that a tech need not drive a customer's car, M-B state that the ride height button on the console can be used to cycle the suspension up and down three times after replacing an accumulator.
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From: Lincolnshire, IL
2005 SL55 AMG
Had my Indy replace just one accumulator since he was already in there and deserves the business. He verified the tandem pump and lines are all good. I’ll replace the pulsation dampeners and the other accumulators on an as-needed basis, all thanks in large part to folks on here encouraging me to DIY it.







