My 2004 r230 has the 722.9 7-speed transmission. I checked this using a VIN decoder and I do NOT have the transmission dipstick tube that is lower than the oil dipstick tube. I recently had suspension and radiator damage to this vehicle. I have replaced almost every thing but I need to top off the automatic transmission fluid. The radiator replacement and loss of ATF from the disconnected hose lines have caused this need. Currently the car (on stands) will not turn the rear wheels and it will not go into park unless I turn the car off. I have read some of the very complicated instructions for totally changing the fluid and filter. I only need to do a top off. I don't has a STAR or similar devise.

Can anyone recommend a procedure that can be followed to just top off the fluid? I do have a lift that I can push the car on and raise the car. Also, is there a preferred ATF to top off this system?

Thanks,

Robert Brooks
Charleston SC

You can search Amazon for "722.9 dipstick" and get lots of listings. Some only specify 722.6, but other claim they are also for 722.9. If your wheels don't even turn, then you are way low on fluid, at least 2 quarts or more.
I use Valvoline Multi-vehicle ATF which lists the MB 236.xx specifications for these cars. (Forgot exactly which one is for 722.9, but they are all listed.)

According to this MB document, 236.14 is now the recommended ATF fluid designation for their automatic transmissions. In the past they specified and used 236.10, but now its 236.14..
https://operatingfluids.mercedes-ben...heet/236.14/en

Be careful as I can pull up the same document for 236.15

https://operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com/sheet/236.15.

It is just showing equivalent non-mercedes oils for that specification.

It all depends on the exact model and year of your transmission. I have a 2009 SL63 with a 722.9 and it requires 236.14 (red color). The SL63 transmission was updated in the 2012 model year and it then required 236.15 (blue color).

Thanks for the comment. The r230s with the 722.6 5G-Tronic (5 speed) has a tubes for checking both the oil and ATF levels. The 722.9 7G-Tronic (7 speed) only have a tube for checking the oil level. There is NO tube to check the ATF level.

The 722.9 level and fill process has to be underneath the car. The process involves checking temps as well as "overfilling" the ATF and then letting the excess drain until a dribble and then reinserting the plug.

I have restored all sorts of cars and this has got to be the worst design there is for "checking" the ATF level. On these cars you can check the oil level on the dash but NOT the ATF level.

Edit: The reason for not wanting to do a full replacement is that the previous owner had that done less than 2500 miles ago.

I was hoping someone here could give me a few tips on an easier way to top off the ATF level instead of the (lengthy) full replacement procedure of ATF fluid.

Thanks M,

I did confirm that mine is a 722.9 and has the requirement of the 236.14 (red) as you mentioned.

Any comments on how to do just a modified procedure of filling to just to off a pint or two?

Thanks again,

Robert

You don't need MB STAR for this. Some of the more basic scanners with MB-specific software will be able to read the transmission temperature, which is what matters for setting the level.

It's a tight window of ~45C to adjust it. You effectively:

1. Overfill the transmission with the car off.
2. Start it up and bring it to that level-setting temperature.
3. Disconnect your fill tool and drain the excess fluid until the flow reduces to something between a small stream and a moderate trickle (but not droplets).

Visual from one of the factory manuals that illustrates this:



https://f01.justanswer.com/73bbchevy...and_tricks.pdf

Good info and call out.

The transition period was a narrow one between the different spec fluids.

To add some additional context:

*The fluid manufacturer (Pentosin) clearly states to not mix the red and blue fluids.
*Many independent shops / dealerships, however, switched to the blue ATF on all MB transmissions they service. They claim no issues, but it's all anecdotal as most things go online.

My understanding is that any older 722.9 transmission can technically use the blue ATF, so long as:

1. The original fluid is cycled out as thoroughly as possible.
2. The filter (and pan) are swapped for the superseded ones designed to work with the blue ATF.

For my personal car, however, I will continue to prioritize the fluid manufacturer's guidance and stick to the red ATF it came with from the factory.

Thanks, I would be interested in your comments about this. I understand the need to overfill. But as mentioned earlier I changed the radiator plus lost some ATF while running the car for about 5-10 seconds while cranking the car.

So how much do you think I should add to "overfill?" I know there is an "overfill tube," does that play any part in determining how to "overfill" sump? And what is the best way to check the ATF temp if I don't have an electronic diagnostic other than an OBD-II?

Thanks,

Robert

Approximately how much fluid was lost when the line was disconnected? If we're talking about a couple of ounces, that's probably within the margin for the fill.

Which OBD2 tool are you using? Something like a Foxwell or iCarSoft MB scanner should be able to give you transmission temperature.

Unfortunately, the 722.9 has a tight window to fill correctly. It's not like some older BMW transmissions where you can get away with approximation by feeling the pan or reading it with an infrared thermometer.

If you can read the transmission temperature, my advice is to get it to 45C and remove the drain / fill bolt. If the fluid is coming out as depicted in either of those first two photos in that guide, you can quickly reinstall the bolt as the level is still within spec.

If it is coming out in drops like in the third photo or not at all, then you know the transmission is low, at which point you can add 1L+ and retest.

That "overfill tube" is the only component that is used to set the level, which is why the correct temperature is important. If the fluid is either too cold or at full operating temperature, it will inaccurately interact with it.

HLG, even more thanks. My OBD II is a much older unit but it serves on some 1990s and 2000s cars I have for basic functions (Buicks). I did order a iCarSoft MB II today. I found it on eBay used. Seller said only used 2 x and his photos including box, all accessories, condition (he even saved the protective plastic that goes on the screen) suggests that it was well taken care of.

To answer your question about amount of ATF lost; I am thinking at least 1 liter if not 2. There is the new radiator AND some pumped out when I had to crank the car when the ATF lines to the radiator were disconnected.

So with the new tool I should get the most accurate temp measurement.

I am also having to flush and replace the ABC fluid as the hoses to that system (the ones under the radiator) all got mangled. Any suggestions on how that iCarSoft MB II can help in that area? I have read many places that the temp and pressure of the "Rodeo Procedure" might be too much on this older system. One well posted and admired person here suggest just constantly raising and lowering the car on the flushing/adding procedure. Comments?

Finally, I see where I can go and register and update the software on the MB II. Crazy question, but is this advised? I am also glad that as you stated I do not have to update/pay for each new MB vehicle. As an aside, I do have a 2012 Land Rover Range Rover HSE that I bought an iGap II for. It was about $ 550 USD. But I read that the iCarSoft was a "cheaper' alternative to the iGap. Do you know if that iCarSoft II MB will work with Land Rover/Jaguar products?

Thanks for all your help. I have restored and worked on all sorts of cars over the years so I am not a "shade tree mechanic). I have 1800 sq. ft. of garage space with air and a drive on lift. It's just that this MB r230 us such a different animal. I have an 88 Rolls-Royce that has a high pressure system for both the brakes and the suspension. I have replaced all of those components so I am familiar with these systems. It just that this r230 makes you jump thru sooooooo many hoops to do a simple procedure.

Thanks again,

Robert

Regarding older cars being too weak for a rodeo, ask yourself if you would rather fail a hose or strut seal in your shop or on the road. Anything that fails during rodeo was going to leave you beside the road at some point in the not too distant future.

Mike (and others), this actually got posted under the wrong thread.

Mike, I appreciate your comment. And yes I see the value in it. Still, I have read some accounts that after some of our members had the "Rodeo procedure" done that it messed up other things with the ABC. I am just being cautious and gathering info and opinions. The answer (or opinion) to one question does not render all other responses mute.

I am doing a ABC fluid flush and I will be adding the seal conditioner AT-205. I will purge air from the system by a process a well respected member suggests. That is constantly raising and lowering the car while the new Pentosin is added. After a bit I may "Rodeo" the car.

Thanks

Happy to help, Robert.

1-2L of fluid loss is significant. I would start with adding 2L+ before checking / adjusting the level. The iCarsoft MB II should be able to read transmission temperature.

I have no concerns with installing software / firmware updates from the tool manufacturer. Have done so periodically on my Foxwell scanner without issue.

Unfortunately, I don't believe iCarsoft MB II can perform Actuations like Pitch or Rodeo for the ABC service. I have one as well and recall learning that the hard way, at which point I obtained MB STAR and the Foxwell tool as a backup.

Having personally performed the ABC service numerous times on numerous cars, some observations:

-While others have done so successfully, I don't go by the raise / lower button to cycle the fluid. ABC 1 cars tend to not require an Actuation to cycle the fluid. Connect your drain hose / bucket, have your clean fluid ready and just start the car for the fluid to flow. For ABC 2 cars, I use the Pitch Actuation via MB STAR.

-Regarding Rodeo, I agree with MikeJ. If a component of the system is near failure, I would much rather discover this in my garage than on the road somewhere.

-Having tried a few different variations of when to utilize Rodeo, my current process is: Extract all dirty fluid from the reservoir, replenish it with clean fluid, run Rodeo. The reservoir holds ~2L of fluid, which is roughly half of the total volume of fluid in the system, so a Rodeo (which fully "stretches" the system) with 50% new fluid will effectively serve as a pre-flush, reducing the amount of total fluid needed for the service.

It's a simple system to service so long as you're meticulous about cleaning the surrounding area beforehand (no external debris, no matter how minimal, can be introduced into circulation) and making sure the reservoir never runs dry (it depletes rather quickly, so have your new fluid ready).

If it helps, happy to talk you through the process on a call.

P.S. That sounds like a dream garage setup!

Oh Lord, more questions unravel: What is the ABC 1 v. ABC 2? Is there a cut off year/VIN/date?

Thanks

Your car has ABC 1.

For the R230:

-ABC 1: 2003-2006
-ABC 2: 2007-2012

Do you like the idea of adding AT-205 (or similar) to help condition/rejuvenate the seals of the ABC? Same question with power steering?

I've used that Full Throttle product from the thread on here in the power steering system of my R230 and the ABC system of my W220.

On the R230, it reduced some whine from the power steering pump from what I observed.

On the W220, it resolved some sagging I was noticing when the car sat for 2+ weeks.

I have the next ABC service interval on my R230 coming up this Spring, and will likely add the treatment (have a couple bottles left) with that service.

Can't speak to AT-205, however, since I've never tried it.

Here's a member who recently used it and shared their experience:

https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...oil-use-2.html

Boy HLG! You have been a lot of help and obviously possess (and share) a great deal of knowledge.

What is this "nipple" for on the hydraulic ABC line?


Thanks