SL-Class (R231) 2013 on: Discussion on the SL550

SL/R231: 2013 SL550 - goes into limp mode when I punch it

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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 03:32 AM
  #1  
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2013 SL550 - goes into limp mode when I punch it

When driving down the interstate in approximately 65 mph today, I punched it and the vehicle immediately went into limp mode. I pulled over turned it off and restarted and everything returned to normal. Couple hours later sitting at a stop sign I gunned it and the same thing happened. When I got home and plugged into the OBDII and it didn’t throw any codes. Has anyone ever experienced this? Kind of takes the fun out of the car if I can’t punch it.

Appreciate comments and advice from anyone who has experience with this?

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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 11:01 AM
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I don’t mean to make light of your issue, but there should be an app that parents can use to make any vehicle driven by a teenager behave like this. To make it even better, the vehicle should not return to regular operation for ten minutes.
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Streamliner
I don’t mean to make light of your issue, but there should be an app that parents can use to make any vehicle driven by a teenager behave like this. To make it even better, the vehicle should not return to regular operation for ten minutes.
Back in the day the parents would just take the keys away and after a week of walking the problem was solved. 😊
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 12:19 PM
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Suggest you take it to an MB Dealer for a proper diagnosis immediately!

Many possibilities: Oxygen sensor failure, Loss of Vacuum pressure, Fuel System issue, Turbo malfunction, Catalytic Converter problem, etc.,etc

Good Luck!




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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 12:35 PM
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Right, I will be scheduling an appointment with the dealer next week. In the meantime, I was just curious if anyone had experienced this.
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Intense
When driving down the interstate in approximately 65 mph today, I punched it and the vehicle immediately went into limp mode. I pulled over turned it off and restarted and everything returned to normal. Couple hours later sitting at a stop sign I gunned it and the same thing happened. When I got home and plugged into the OBDII and it didn’t throw any codes. Has anyone ever experienced this? Kind of takes the fun out of the car if I can’t punch it.

Appreciate comments and advice from anyone who has experience with this?
I just purchased a 2010 W212 Coupe one owner, Benz Dealer serviced with 36K miles! I have the same issue. The TSC turns off every time I open the throttle fully. I did it three times in a row and the CEL came on. It did clear itself the next day after about 10 miles. My iCardsoft OBII MB V2.0 scanner just arrived yesterday. Maybe the CEL left a code that may lead to what the cause is. I read about the ABS and worn brake pads setting false codes. I also read a "theoretical" explanation of what could cause this to happen regarding worn ring and pinion and unequal wheel speed. I may qualify for worn rear brake pads. I just need to check into that idea. The mileage is about right for pads since this was a Pompano Beach Condo Commando that drove it 3300 mile a year. lol Now I need to learn the tricks of operating the new ICardsoft tool.
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Old Mar 13, 2020 | 05:17 PM
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Yeah, it did it one more time and I took it back to the dealer and he gave my $ back. I just bought another one and it's running great.
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 12:01 AM
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I had that issue on my old 2013 sl550.. it turned out to be the throttle body control that was bad (the sensor in the accelerator) you can find the part on eBay for about 100 bucks or so . Very simple to replace 2 screws and plug and play... Hopefully it helps.
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Old Mar 23, 2020 | 02:05 PM
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Problem fixed!

I had the same issues with my 2010 E350 , punching it and limp mode every time, I never took it to a dealer or mechanic because they will not know that your accelerator pedal sensor is going bad, so they will charge you for something and it will not fix the problem. So I changed the accelerator pedal entirely, and no more problems! I suggest once you get your new pedal, reset the transmission to learn your new pedal properly. Swiffty
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Old Mar 23, 2020 | 08:34 PM
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I had a 2010 C63 that did it one time. I shut it down and restarted the engine, never did it again.
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Old Sep 8, 2023 | 06:31 AM
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Same/Similar Problem -- O2 Sensor Fail?

I had a similar problem this week. I don't drive the car much, maybe once a week. I took it out for a spin. Normal start to get thru the neighborhood, but when I was departing the traffic light on the first main road, it immediately lost power, began chugging, and was totally limping with an Engine light. I pulled over, turned the engine off, restarted and things seemed okay, but when I was departing from the next intersection, same thing. When I limped it back to the garage, my girl noticed a sulfur-like smell (my nose is still off from COVID, so I can't detect much). Google revealed these are all classic signs of an O2 Sensor fail. I have not pulled codes yet, but am ttying to decide if I need it towed to the dealer, or if this is a simple repair, easilty accessible part. It looks to be a $35 component. Appreciate any insight. Thanks!
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Old Sep 8, 2023 | 08:52 AM
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Do you have a scanner?
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Old Sep 8, 2023 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by JettaRed
Do you have a scanner?
Amazon supposed to deliver one today by 10pm lol.
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Old Sep 8, 2023 | 12:18 PM
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Which one did you get? Post back the results of your scan.
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Old Sep 8, 2023 | 02:43 PM
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Had this happen on my m278 s class. Turned out to be a bad coil pack. It did give me a code.....Eventually. It was intermittently doing this. Eventually was able to diagnose this without MB star.

Last edited by red996; Sep 8, 2023 at 02:51 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2023 | 03:05 PM
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Had this happen when I was in my early twenties to a Maxima I had. Went to my friends Dad's shop and it was a MAF that came loose. When I punched it the engine flexing made the connection work free. A new clamp fixed the issue.
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Old Sep 8, 2023 | 05:06 PM
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This happened to me a couple of times in my '10 E550 Coupe. Seems to be the gas pedal in that model and sounds exactly the same symptom you are having.
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Old Sep 8, 2023 | 05:25 PM
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You guys need to quit punching things! You’ll be accused of toxic masculinity.
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Old Sep 8, 2023 | 05:26 PM
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Update after initial diagnosis -- Not O2 Sensor

Took it to a friend's garage; he pulled codes, one of which is the speed sensor on front left. [I did not mentione that I also had a Christmas tree of ABS, NonSkid, Lane Avoidance, and Blind Spot inoperative warnings, in addition to Engine Light]. After further research, it seems this speed sensor can also make the vehicle go wonky. I would describe the reaction as the thing almost SLAMMING out of gear, then getting very clunky/chugging. If you turn off the engine and restart, the motor run like a top. It's just thrown into this funky mode by something. Sorry, but I don't have all the codes, but I do remember seeing that Speed Sensor. I did NOT see anything related to Exhaust, e.g., O2 sensor. More to follow, gents.
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Old Sep 8, 2023 | 05:38 PM
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Well, there you go! All those other codes are linked to the car determining the correct speed. If one sensor is bad, it’ll confuse all the others. Fix that, clear the codes, drive the car and see if the problem returns. Replacing the wheel speed sensor is not hard if you know how to remove a wheel.
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Old Sep 9, 2023 | 01:11 PM
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Had this happen to me on my ML and BMW. Identical thing happened as you described. Both turned out to be a Bad coil on one of the cylinders. I replaced all with new plugs. Runs like new now.
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Old Sep 9, 2023 | 03:55 PM
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An SL550? Doesn't that always feel like limp mode?
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Old Sep 11, 2023 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by billvp218
An SL550? Doesn't that always feel like limp mode?
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Old Sep 13, 2023 | 08:34 PM
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Well I'll be damned...

Originally Posted by JettaRed
Well, there you go! All those other codes are linked to the car determining the correct speed. If one sensor is bad, it’ll confuse all the others. Fix that, clear the codes, drive the car and see if the problem returns. Replacing the wheel speed sensor is not hard if you know how to remove a wheel.
Had the wheel sensor replaced and it cleared the Christmas tree of ABS and antiskid and drives fine. No engine light either. Gave my bro $200 since he ordered an OEM sensor and I didn't lift anything but my wallet. I bet this would have been a minimum $500 dealer charge. Or a $50 maintenance charge and a $450 car wash.
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Old Sep 13, 2023 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JettaRed
Which one did you get? Post back the results of your scan.
Amazon's Choice...don't judge me.
ANCEL AD310 Classic Enhanced Universal OBD II Scanner Car Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool-Black

I'm still figuring this thing out and can't seem to Erase the codes, but the Engine light is out and no Cautions or Warnings displayed. Under the menu item that says "Stored Codes", it has:
C0034 Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor
P061A Internal Control Module Torque Performance

I think I read somewhere how the Speed Sensor failure can confuse the crap out of the sensor systems and cause mismatches that latch this type of generic code. The only issue I had was an inability to Erase the codes regardless of key state. Further investigation here, but seems all is well now and only $200 to a good man.
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