SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: SL55 Oil Change DIY
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,653
Likes: 5
From: Ann Arbor
'03 SL55
I haven't seen that info online. If you can find the procedure for another 55K engine it'll be essentially the same except the SL55 oil pan is split and you'll need to drain oil from both the front and rear drain plugs.
If you plan to service your own car it's worthwhile picking up the Mercedes service DVD. Cost is approximately $60 and it contains a ton of useful info: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o...stedDocId=9124
If you plan to service your own car it's worthwhile picking up the Mercedes service DVD. Cost is approximately $60 and it contains a ton of useful info: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o...stedDocId=9124
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,703
Likes: 5
From: Arizona
SL55AMG, Ferrari 348, Ferrari Testarossa, Ferrari F40, Ferrari Mondial t, Ducati 916, Indycar
It is very easy to change your own oil in the 55.
Lift the car
Remove the belly pan
There are 2 drain plugs. Remove and drain oil.
Put back together in reverse order. Lower car.
On the top of the engine there is a cylindrical, gray cap that house the oil filter. Remove and replace the oil filter.
Fill with Mobil 1, 0-40. Check manual for capacity.
You may be able to vacuum the oil out through the auxillary dip stick area, but I haven't tried yet.
Good luck....... grasshopper!
Lift the car
Remove the belly pan
There are 2 drain plugs. Remove and drain oil.
Put back together in reverse order. Lower car.
On the top of the engine there is a cylindrical, gray cap that house the oil filter. Remove and replace the oil filter.
Fill with Mobil 1, 0-40. Check manual for capacity.
You may be able to vacuum the oil out through the auxillary dip stick area, but I haven't tried yet.
Good luck....... grasshopper!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Tampa Bay, FL
'11 E63 AMG,'05 SL55 AMG, '05 CLK500 Cab (sold) '02 E55 AMG (Sold)
Thanks for the all the help. I plan to vacuum the oil out and then remove the drain plugs to see if this method works on the split oil pan motor. I will also get new crush washers. I will let you know how things turn out.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Tampa Bay, FL
'11 E63 AMG,'05 SL55 AMG, '05 CLK500 Cab (sold) '02 E55 AMG (Sold)
Over the Edge: Some have stated on the 55 motors ('03 and up) with the split oil pans you could not vacuum out all the oil. That is why I was going to verify that this method worked by removing the drain plugs as well. Did you measure the amount of oil that you removed? Looking forward to your DIY.
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,268
Likes: 253
i have vacuumed successfully _all_ oil from a 2004 cl55 car.
the only catch is to vacuum soon (10 min. or so) after a hot engine has been shut off so you can get all the sediment.. if you wait a few hours the sediment goes at the bottom of the oilpan and you might not be able to get it all out.
alex
few cars
the only catch is to vacuum soon (10 min. or so) after a hot engine has been shut off so you can get all the sediment.. if you wait a few hours the sediment goes at the bottom of the oilpan and you might not be able to get it all out.
alex
few cars
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 55
Likes: 1
2006 Dodge Viper, 2006 SL55
I just changed the oil in my '06 SL55 this past Saturday. The things you will need are:
1) A set of Rhino ramps to elevate the front of the car. Got it at Pep Boys on sale for $29.99.
2) Oil filter wrench "Type B" from Autozone. Paid $4.99.
3) 9 Quarts of synthetic oil. I purchased Penzoil Synthetic 5W-30 for $6.99/quart at Autozone.
4) Oil filter and two copper drain plug rings from the Mercedes dealer. Paid $24.
5) An 8mm socket and a 13mm socket.
6) Big-a$$ oil pan to catch all 9 quarts of used oil.
I drove the car around to get it up to operating temperature and then parked it on top of the Rhino ramps. I let it cool down for about 30 minutes.
I started with the oil filter first. Unscrew the oil filter cap assembly using the Type B wrench. The oil filter is pressure fitted inside the cap. Carefully remove the cap assembly from the engine. Remove the oil filter and replace with the new filter. There are hash marks on the side of the oil filter. Make sure the bottom edge of the filter cap lines up with the hash mark. Replace three O-rings on the cap assembly (these are supplied with the new oil filter). Insert cap assembly back into engine and initially hand tighten, then torque down using Type B wrench.
There are two plastic uncercarriage trays that need to be removed to access both drain plugs. The front tray is held by four 8mm bolts and the back tray is held by six 8mm bolts. There is a front cross-member that "splits" the oil pan in half. The front drain plug faces the driver's side front tire. Remove it using the 13mm socket. My guestimate is that about 4 quarts were drained from this one. Install a new copper ring on the drain plug and reinstall it to the oil pan. On the backside of the crossmember, the 2nd drain plug faces rearward towards the transmission. Remove this one using the 13mm socket and drain the rest of the oil. Install a new copper ring to this drain plug and reinstall it to the oil pan.
Fill the motor with new motor oil. I filled up eight quarts and then started the motor to check for leaks. After I confirmed that, I added the last quart and reinstalled the undercarriage trays. The rearmost tray is installed first followed by the frontmost tray.
I was tempted to take pictures but my hands were very oily but the oil change is fairly straight forward.
The Mercedes dealership told me that most of the oil could be drained from one drain plug but that was BS. They also tried to discourage me from changing the oil because it would "mess up" the engine computer and it would cost $1200 just for the computer. I checked my invoice from last year's oil change at the dealership and it showed they replaced one copper ring so they only drained about half of the oil, yet they charged me for 9 quarts. Hope this helps!
Robert
1) A set of Rhino ramps to elevate the front of the car. Got it at Pep Boys on sale for $29.99.
2) Oil filter wrench "Type B" from Autozone. Paid $4.99.
3) 9 Quarts of synthetic oil. I purchased Penzoil Synthetic 5W-30 for $6.99/quart at Autozone.
4) Oil filter and two copper drain plug rings from the Mercedes dealer. Paid $24.
5) An 8mm socket and a 13mm socket.
6) Big-a$$ oil pan to catch all 9 quarts of used oil.
I drove the car around to get it up to operating temperature and then parked it on top of the Rhino ramps. I let it cool down for about 30 minutes.
I started with the oil filter first. Unscrew the oil filter cap assembly using the Type B wrench. The oil filter is pressure fitted inside the cap. Carefully remove the cap assembly from the engine. Remove the oil filter and replace with the new filter. There are hash marks on the side of the oil filter. Make sure the bottom edge of the filter cap lines up with the hash mark. Replace three O-rings on the cap assembly (these are supplied with the new oil filter). Insert cap assembly back into engine and initially hand tighten, then torque down using Type B wrench.
There are two plastic uncercarriage trays that need to be removed to access both drain plugs. The front tray is held by four 8mm bolts and the back tray is held by six 8mm bolts. There is a front cross-member that "splits" the oil pan in half. The front drain plug faces the driver's side front tire. Remove it using the 13mm socket. My guestimate is that about 4 quarts were drained from this one. Install a new copper ring on the drain plug and reinstall it to the oil pan. On the backside of the crossmember, the 2nd drain plug faces rearward towards the transmission. Remove this one using the 13mm socket and drain the rest of the oil. Install a new copper ring to this drain plug and reinstall it to the oil pan.
Fill the motor with new motor oil. I filled up eight quarts and then started the motor to check for leaks. After I confirmed that, I added the last quart and reinstalled the undercarriage trays. The rearmost tray is installed first followed by the frontmost tray.
I was tempted to take pictures but my hands were very oily but the oil change is fairly straight forward.
The Mercedes dealership told me that most of the oil could be drained from one drain plug but that was BS. They also tried to discourage me from changing the oil because it would "mess up" the engine computer and it would cost $1200 just for the computer. I checked my invoice from last year's oil change at the dealership and it showed they replaced one copper ring so they only drained about half of the oil, yet they charged me for 9 quarts. Hope this helps!
Robert
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,653
Likes: 5
From: Ann Arbor
'03 SL55
FWIW, Penzoil Synthetic 5W-30 is not recommended for use with AMG engines. Mercedes recommends 0W-40 or 5W-40 oil that conforms to MB spec 229.3 or 229.5 depending on the year of the car. List of some approved motor oils is here: http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 55
Likes: 1
2006 Dodge Viper, 2006 SL55
Good write-up, Robert.
FWIW, Penzoil Synthetic 5W-30 is not recommended for use with AMG engines. Mercedes recommends 0W-40 or 5W-40 oil that conforms to MB spec 229.3 or 229.5 depending on the year of the car. List of some approved motor oils is here: http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html.
FWIW, Penzoil Synthetic 5W-30 is not recommended for use with AMG engines. Mercedes recommends 0W-40 or 5W-40 oil that conforms to MB spec 229.3 or 229.5 depending on the year of the car. List of some approved motor oils is here: http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html.
I change the oil in my cars every 6 months so it will be summer time when this car is due and that is when I will pay closer attention to the approved motor oils.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,268
Likes: 253
0w30 is too thin. the hot weight should be 40.
computer can be reset manually. search the net for how-to
the "full" mark on the 55 blown engine is 9.5 quarts of oil. not 9 quarts.
putting the car on ramps will tilt the engine so not all of the oil could be drained. if you want to do a thorough job you need to lift the car flat (jackstands) or go to an oil-change place and ask them to do it for you for $20. well worth the money.
alex
few cars
computer can be reset manually. search the net for how-to
the "full" mark on the 55 blown engine is 9.5 quarts of oil. not 9 quarts.
putting the car on ramps will tilt the engine so not all of the oil could be drained. if you want to do a thorough job you need to lift the car flat (jackstands) or go to an oil-change place and ask them to do it for you for $20. well worth the money.
alex
few cars
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,703
Likes: 5
From: Arizona
SL55AMG, Ferrari 348, Ferrari Testarossa, Ferrari F40, Ferrari Mondial t, Ducati 916, Indycar
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Scotland
SL55AMG
Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 169
Likes: 1
From: San Jose, CA
04 SL55 AMG
So, checking oil level is one thing... but without a dipstick, how does one check the condition of the oil, which can usually only be done via looking at it and feeling for viscosity with your fingers.
Can't believe there is no dipstick... I for one am ordering one from my dealer.
Can't believe there is no dipstick... I for one am ordering one from my dealer.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Scotland
SL55AMG
SL55 Oil Change
Right enough, I would usually have a check that way myself, a combination of texture and colour usually a good indicator. I had a CLK once that perodically adjusted the indicated "miles to go" until the next service depending on how I drove it, so when I was bimbling around over a period it would increase.
I notice now each time I get the SL serviced it's set at 10k mile intervals....would be interesting to know if this is an optional setting for the Mercedes guys when they service it?...if so I'd be happy to stretch that out a bit if it's not being driven hard, Porsche seem to now have longer service intervals and I'd suspect that with quality oils like Mobil 1 etc that it should be ok on the engine.
I notice now each time I get the SL serviced it's set at 10k mile intervals....would be interesting to know if this is an optional setting for the Mercedes guys when they service it?...if so I'd be happy to stretch that out a bit if it's not being driven hard, Porsche seem to now have longer service intervals and I'd suspect that with quality oils like Mobil 1 etc that it should be ok on the engine.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
mercedes sl55amg
I just changed the oil in my '06 SL55 this past Saturday. The things you will need are:
1) A set of Rhino ramps to elevate the front of the car. Got it at Pep Boys on sale for $29.99.
2) Oil filter wrench "Type B" from Autozone. Paid $4.99.
3) 9 Quarts of synthetic oil. I purchased Penzoil Synthetic 5W-30 for $6.99/quart at Autozone.
4) Oil filter and two copper drain plug rings from the Mercedes dealer. Paid $24.
5) An 8mm socket and a 13mm socket.
6) Big-a$$ oil pan to catch all 9 quarts of used oil.
I drove the car around to get it up to operating temperature and then parked it on top of the Rhino ramps. I let it cool down for about 30 minutes.
I started with the oil filter first. Unscrew the oil filter cap assembly using the Type B wrench. The oil filter is pressure fitted inside the cap. Carefully remove the cap assembly from the engine. Remove the oil filter and replace with the new filter. There are hash marks on the side of the oil filter. Make sure the bottom edge of the filter cap lines up with the hash mark. Replace three O-rings on the cap assembly (these are supplied with the new oil filter). Insert cap assembly back into engine and initially hand tighten, then torque down using Type B wrench.
There are two plastic uncercarriage trays that need to be removed to access both drain plugs. The front tray is held by four 8mm bolts and the back tray is held by six 8mm bolts. There is a front cross-member that "splits" the oil pan in half. The front drain plug faces the driver's side front tire. Remove it using the 13mm socket. My guestimate is that about 4 quarts were drained from this one. Install a new copper ring on the drain plug and reinstall it to the oil pan. On the backside of the crossmember, the 2nd drain plug faces rearward towards the transmission. Remove this one using the 13mm socket and drain the rest of the oil. Install a new copper ring to this drain plug and reinstall it to the oil pan.
Fill the motor with new motor oil. I filled up eight quarts and then started the motor to check for leaks. After I confirmed that, I added the last quart and reinstalled the undercarriage trays. The rearmost tray is installed first followed by the frontmost tray.
I was tempted to take pictures but my hands were very oily but the oil change is fairly straight forward.
The Mercedes dealership told me that most of the oil could be drained from one drain plug but that was BS. They also tried to discourage me from changing the oil because it would "mess up" the engine computer and it would cost $1200 just for the computer. I checked my invoice from last year's oil change at the dealership and it showed they replaced one copper ring so they only drained about half of the oil, yet they charged me for 9 quarts. Hope this helps!
Robert
1) A set of Rhino ramps to elevate the front of the car. Got it at Pep Boys on sale for $29.99.
2) Oil filter wrench "Type B" from Autozone. Paid $4.99.
3) 9 Quarts of synthetic oil. I purchased Penzoil Synthetic 5W-30 for $6.99/quart at Autozone.
4) Oil filter and two copper drain plug rings from the Mercedes dealer. Paid $24.
5) An 8mm socket and a 13mm socket.
6) Big-a$$ oil pan to catch all 9 quarts of used oil.
I drove the car around to get it up to operating temperature and then parked it on top of the Rhino ramps. I let it cool down for about 30 minutes.
I started with the oil filter first. Unscrew the oil filter cap assembly using the Type B wrench. The oil filter is pressure fitted inside the cap. Carefully remove the cap assembly from the engine. Remove the oil filter and replace with the new filter. There are hash marks on the side of the oil filter. Make sure the bottom edge of the filter cap lines up with the hash mark. Replace three O-rings on the cap assembly (these are supplied with the new oil filter). Insert cap assembly back into engine and initially hand tighten, then torque down using Type B wrench.
There are two plastic uncercarriage trays that need to be removed to access both drain plugs. The front tray is held by four 8mm bolts and the back tray is held by six 8mm bolts. There is a front cross-member that "splits" the oil pan in half. The front drain plug faces the driver's side front tire. Remove it using the 13mm socket. My guestimate is that about 4 quarts were drained from this one. Install a new copper ring on the drain plug and reinstall it to the oil pan. On the backside of the crossmember, the 2nd drain plug faces rearward towards the transmission. Remove this one using the 13mm socket and drain the rest of the oil. Install a new copper ring to this drain plug and reinstall it to the oil pan.
Fill the motor with new motor oil. I filled up eight quarts and then started the motor to check for leaks. After I confirmed that, I added the last quart and reinstalled the undercarriage trays. The rearmost tray is installed first followed by the frontmost tray.
I was tempted to take pictures but my hands were very oily but the oil change is fairly straight forward.
The Mercedes dealership told me that most of the oil could be drained from one drain plug but that was BS. They also tried to discourage me from changing the oil because it would "mess up" the engine computer and it would cost $1200 just for the computer. I checked my invoice from last year's oil change at the dealership and it showed they replaced one copper ring so they only drained about half of the oil, yet they charged me for 9 quarts. Hope this helps!
Robert
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
mercedes sl55amg
006 997 75 48 seal ring
I just changed the oil in my '06 SL55 this past Saturday. The things you will need are:
1) A set of Rhino ramps to elevate the front of the car. Got it at Pep Boys on sale for $29.99.
2) Oil filter wrench "Type B" from Autozone. Paid $4.99.
3) 9 Quarts of synthetic oil. I purchased Penzoil Synthetic 5W-30 for $6.99/quart at Autozone.
4) Oil filter and two copper drain plug rings from the Mercedes dealer. Paid $24.
5) An 8mm socket and a 13mm socket.
6) Big-a$$ oil pan to catch all 9 quarts of used oil.
I drove the car around to get it up to operating temperature and then parked it on top of the Rhino ramps. I let it cool down for about 30 minutes.
I started with the oil filter first. Unscrew the oil filter cap assembly using the Type B wrench. The oil filter is pressure fitted inside the cap. Carefully remove the cap assembly from the engine. Remove the oil filter and replace with the new filter. There are hash marks on the side of the oil filter. Make sure the bottom edge of the filter cap lines up with the hash mark. Replace three O-rings on the cap assembly (these are supplied with the new oil filter). Insert cap assembly back into engine and initially hand tighten, then torque down using Type B wrench.
There are two plastic uncercarriage trays that need to be removed to access both drain plugs. The front tray is held by four 8mm bolts and the back tray is held by six 8mm bolts. There is a front cross-member that "splits" the oil pan in half. The front drain plug faces the driver's side front tire. Remove it using the 13mm socket. My guestimate is that about 4 quarts were drained from this one. Install a new copper ring on the drain plug and reinstall it to the oil pan. On the backside of the crossmember, the 2nd drain plug faces rearward towards the transmission. Remove this one using the 13mm socket and drain the rest of the oil. Install a new copper ring to this drain plug and reinstall it to the oil pan.
Fill the motor with new motor oil. I filled up eight quarts and then started the motor to check for leaks. After I confirmed that, I added the last quart and reinstalled the undercarriage trays. The rearmost tray is installed first followed by the frontmost tray.
I was tempted to take pictures but my hands were very oily but the oil change is fairly straight forward.
The Mercedes dealership told me that most of the oil could be drained from one drain plug but that was BS. They also tried to discourage me from changing the oil because it would "mess up" the engine computer and it would cost $1200 just for the computer. I checked my invoice from last year's oil change at the dealership and it showed they replaced one copper ring so they only drained about half of the oil, yet they charged me for 9 quarts. Hope this helps!
Robert
1) A set of Rhino ramps to elevate the front of the car. Got it at Pep Boys on sale for $29.99.
2) Oil filter wrench "Type B" from Autozone. Paid $4.99.
3) 9 Quarts of synthetic oil. I purchased Penzoil Synthetic 5W-30 for $6.99/quart at Autozone.
4) Oil filter and two copper drain plug rings from the Mercedes dealer. Paid $24.
5) An 8mm socket and a 13mm socket.
6) Big-a$$ oil pan to catch all 9 quarts of used oil.
I drove the car around to get it up to operating temperature and then parked it on top of the Rhino ramps. I let it cool down for about 30 minutes.
I started with the oil filter first. Unscrew the oil filter cap assembly using the Type B wrench. The oil filter is pressure fitted inside the cap. Carefully remove the cap assembly from the engine. Remove the oil filter and replace with the new filter. There are hash marks on the side of the oil filter. Make sure the bottom edge of the filter cap lines up with the hash mark. Replace three O-rings on the cap assembly (these are supplied with the new oil filter). Insert cap assembly back into engine and initially hand tighten, then torque down using Type B wrench.
There are two plastic uncercarriage trays that need to be removed to access both drain plugs. The front tray is held by four 8mm bolts and the back tray is held by six 8mm bolts. There is a front cross-member that "splits" the oil pan in half. The front drain plug faces the driver's side front tire. Remove it using the 13mm socket. My guestimate is that about 4 quarts were drained from this one. Install a new copper ring on the drain plug and reinstall it to the oil pan. On the backside of the crossmember, the 2nd drain plug faces rearward towards the transmission. Remove this one using the 13mm socket and drain the rest of the oil. Install a new copper ring to this drain plug and reinstall it to the oil pan.
Fill the motor with new motor oil. I filled up eight quarts and then started the motor to check for leaks. After I confirmed that, I added the last quart and reinstalled the undercarriage trays. The rearmost tray is installed first followed by the frontmost tray.
I was tempted to take pictures but my hands were very oily but the oil change is fairly straight forward.
The Mercedes dealership told me that most of the oil could be drained from one drain plug but that was BS. They also tried to discourage me from changing the oil because it would "mess up" the engine computer and it would cost $1200 just for the computer. I checked my invoice from last year's oil change at the dealership and it showed they replaced one copper ring so they only drained about half of the oil, yet they charged me for 9 quarts. Hope this helps!
Robert
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
2004 SL55 AMG
i have vacuumed successfully _all_ oil from a 2004 cl55 car.
the only catch is to vacuum soon (10 min. or so) after a hot engine has been shut off so you can get all the sediment.. if you wait a few hours the sediment goes at the bottom of the oilpan and you might not be able to get it all out.
alex
few cars
the only catch is to vacuum soon (10 min. or so) after a hot engine has been shut off so you can get all the sediment.. if you wait a few hours the sediment goes at the bottom of the oilpan and you might not be able to get it all out.
alex
few cars
Which suction device did you use (MityVac, Griots garage, etc? and was the plastic tube long enough? Was there any oil remaining in the oil pan, since it is split with 2 drain plugs?
You can get the oil dipstick online for $32 plus shipping from this site:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...E:L:OU:US:1123
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 8,137
Likes: 26
From: Maryland
Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
Which suction device did you use (MityVac, Griots garage, etc? and was the plastic tube long enough? Was there any oil remaining in the oil pan, since it is split with 2 drain plugs?
You can get the oil dipstick online for $32 plus shipping from this site:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...E:L:OU:US:1123
You can get the oil dipstick online for $32 plus shipping from this site:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...E:L:OU:US:1123
Mityvac 7201
I've used it on my SL600, E500, C240, R500 and Range Rover S/C without problem.
I helpful tip is to drive the car for a few miles first, to heat up the oil a bit. Make sure to open the oil filter housing to allow a vent, while you're siphoning. Fill with Mobil 1 0/40 Euro Formula, using the very large void created by removing the oil filter assembly. Much faster and cleaner.
Last edited by Benz-O-Rama; Dec 1, 2011 at 01:03 PM.
