SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Marcus's SL65 Build Thread...
It is with great pleasure I'd like to welcome you to my SL65 build thread. This has been a year in the making, so please don't mind any mistakes they will be corrected eventually

Now - over the years I've seen many build threads on various forums I've been a part of, and even a few on here (kudos to Finny, Jakpro1, and AMGFan). AMG has been building a reputation with it's forced induction cars - a reputation for power and luxury, unlike any other marque. Now, with the help of MarkoCL65, DSMed, and VRP, AMGs will now be able to stake their claim at a pretty high point on the street machine food chain. This build thread will take you through the long-awaited transformation of my stock 2005 SL65 to an all out MONSTER. I want you all to know that this thread will take some time, but I think it will serve to educate as well as entertain this community.
Now my goal with this build is to end up with a truly world class GT supercar. I'm not looking for a spectacular track car, drag car, whatever. I drove my SL65 over 10k miles last summer alone, so it's STREET prowess is what is important to me (and I think that is really a defining characteristic of all things AMG). Ridiculous speed and power, good looks, top down, and still an everyday capable AMG. It is my true conviction that there are few platforms out there that can do ALL the things this V12 biturbo AMG R230 can do.
So here is how my car arrived from California, beautiful and very stock...

Almost immediately - as is typical for me - tint and euro bumper strips were added (orange/clear/painted side markers are the work of the devil himself!!!).
Then I blacked out the grill...

Wanted to get some baseline numbers... car made decent power but we saw IATs getting high, and soon after replaced the failing water pump.



First thing to address after this was the STEERING WHEEL. The damn AMGs have some of the worst factory steering wheels I've ever had to deal with. First thing I wanted was OEM paddles, second thing MORE THICKNESS, and thirdly ALCANTARA. I was able to work with a very talented local individual (PM me for his contact info) who was able to take this:

to THIS:


It came out extremely well. I am probably going to put this wheel up for sale soon, as we are going to try something else because I have ADD when it comes to modding and instead of cutting the material off the wheel we are just going to start with a new wheel. The paddles are fully functional for 2005 cars, and are totally OEM! Feel great, look great, a no brainer. PM me if you are interested in the wheel.
Next on the list - WHEELS. I opted to go with the 20" Carlsson 1/16 Ultralights. A little bling, but I wanted to go with a tuner look instead of the 3-piece look - and these wheels are relatively rare, lightweight, and I think flow well with the R230's lines. Here are some pics, without lowering...



Next up was lowering the car via SDS. Now understandably this is limited, so we went as low as we could. I'm still debating whether or not to go further with a module or not.

Next up - straight pipes, and SL63 lip spoiler, and updated ('07+) smoked 3rd brake light.
Stay tuned.
-m
Last edited by Marcus Frost; Apr 27, 2009 at 05:11 PM.

It may not be for everybody, but it is good to know what can be done...can't wait to see your pics...
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It may not be for everybody, but it is good to know what can be done...can't wait to see your pics...
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It was lowered using the STAR Diagnostic System or SDS. A competent MB Tech or independent MB shop can do this for you, cost should not exceed $500.
CA_E55:
They are Carlsson 1/16 UltraLights. 20x8.5, 20x11. Pirelli PZERO Nero, 255/35/20, 305/25/20. They are pricey, but IMO have a very nice look on the R230.
-m
How much were you able to lower it using SDS? That looks plenty low enough for me in the front. Since it was lowered using SDS, does the car know not to go too low and cause an error. I have been a lil bit leery to get links since the car lowers itself at some certain freeway speed and may cause rubbing or some sort of other issues. Currently, I don't have any aftermarket wheels but have seriously been considering some of the 3pc forged.
I hate to seem like a newb but hey, you gotta start some where.
I shudder seeing your new wheels on the shatty pavement. Hope you don't fall in one of the dips and bend a lip.
Last edited by BeltFedBob; Apr 27, 2009 at 08:45 PM. Reason: bad word
How much were you able to lower it using SDS? That looks plenty low enough for me in the front. Since it was lowered using SDS, does the car know not to go too low and cause an error. I have been a lil bit leery to get links since the car lowers itself at some certain freeway speed and may cause rubbing or some sort of other issues. Currently, I don't have any aftermarket wheels but have seriously been considering some of the 3pc forged.
I hate to seem like a newb but hey, you gotta start some where.
We were not able to go much on the 65 because it sits fairly low with the 65 ABC program. We got around an inch, possibly less. Doing it through the SDS is a great, cost effective way of lowering the car because you are programming new, acceptable values into the SDS that allows it to still properly manage the ride height at all times. I've written a lot about this so do a search with my name and STAR and you can read my take.
-m
It was lowered using the STAR Diagnostic System or SDS. A competent MB Tech or independent MB shop can do this for you, cost should not exceed $500.
Thanks Marcus for the information! I've already called my MB Service advisor and told him that I would be coming in to get my car lowered after I get it out of the shop from my body mods!
How is the ride now, lowered and with the 20s? Is there a noticeable difference to the down side?
The ride is only slightly harsher than stock. The 65 has the most aggressive ABC program of all the R230s, and amazingly the jump to 20s really doesn't impact the ride quality much. I'd say with the 20s it's still slightly more compliant than an E46 M3 with the optional 19" wheels (which I think you said you had?)
For comparison - the E55 on the other hand, when going from 18" to 20", is a nose dive off a cliff in terms of ride quality.
-m
BEFORE


AFTER





Last edited by Marcus Frost; Apr 29, 2009 at 02:14 PM.
It's the perfect balance IMO... at idle, the car is still very quiet... but once you go WOT... talk about grinning ear to ear.
For some who really want to keep that total sleeper "persona" - straight pipes aren't for you. Straight pipes on the 65 are for people who don't mind their 600hp monster actually sounding like it's packing some power.
-m
BEFORE


AFTER






It's the perfect balance IMO... at idle, the car is still very quiet... but once you go WOT... talk about grinning ear to ear.
For some who really want to keep that total sleeper "persona" - straight pipes aren't for you. Straight pipes on the 65 are for people who don't mind their 600hp monster actually sounding like it's packing some power.
-m
Sorry to say, but it's apples to oranges. I have both motors, and I would never dream of putting straight pipes on my 55. The 55 needs mufflers.
-m
Sorry to say, but it's apples to oranges. I have both motors, and I would never dream of putting straight pipes on my 55. The 55 needs mufflers.
-m
! They love my longtube headers leading into my straight pipes and gutted mufflers on my E55...The WOT sound is redonkulous!!!!






