SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: overZealous1's build thread
#103
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Wow, that came out awesome.. Great job A-Z on the planning and execution!
I've seen your car over at P-T.com also, I go by Whistler over there and most other forums(it was taken here) Used to work at Pr**igy (curse word these days ) and have worked on countless pro-touring 67-9s so I have a special appreciation for the skill and patience involed with your build. Best of luck with it!
I've seen your car over at P-T.com also, I go by Whistler over there and most other forums(it was taken here) Used to work at Pr**igy (curse word these days ) and have worked on countless pro-touring 67-9s so I have a special appreciation for the skill and patience involed with your build. Best of luck with it!
#104
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Nice looking engine bay)) ....... very neat .... the red color due not come through right . maybe the blitz? .... some of the close-up pic. earlier in the thread show the right red and I guess your wrapping is the same color………………
My intake tubes – both of them - have a hole in the size of a thumb underneath near the engine ..... it could be for when the motor have been "moving" when speeding up.
My intake tubes – both of them - have a hole in the size of a thumb underneath near the engine ..... it could be for when the motor have been "moving" when speeding up.
not sure why you would have such damage on your tubes. my car has over 70k miles and the tubes literally looked new. maybe check out your motor mounts while you are at it.
#105
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#106
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well finally got some dry weather driving in. all i can say is, this thing is now to the senses as being violently yet politely RAPED!! loving it! have yet to floor it because i keep running into the traction control while digging into it.
it really does bring out the weakness in not having a lsd though. was fine at stock hp, but it really is a traction and control issue at this level. looks like it will be one of the next mods.
it really does bring out the weakness in not having a lsd though. was fine at stock hp, but it really is a traction and control issue at this level. looks like it will be one of the next mods.
#107
btw- i went old school on removing the crank bolt. since i had valve covers off and spark plugs out, you can pick a piston that is on the comp stroke, bring it to bdc, then stuff a nylon rope inside. start turning crank bolt and the rope will stop piston and you can then reef on the crank bolt and remove it. no special tools to buy! simple and worked great!
old school works in time of need. When it comes to reassembly use the holding figure & use the new ARP bolt .
Attached is a ARP bolt Kit for Mercedes M-113 K engine , that attaches the H/B to the Crankshaft. Material is 4340 Steel Heat treated to AMS-H-6875 spec. Rockwell Hardness ( Rc 39-43 )
The threads a rolled on after the heat treat Process, Major improvement .
Factory bolt is a Stretch to yield and has tool cut threads. Which are rough . & can add friction to the torque value , causes loss of clamp pressure , That along with the interrupted keyway edges , doesn’t help to get true torque pressure , And is a 1 time use bolt ! that retails for $48.00
The ARP with a sliding washer & their lube packet, and High strength. We can use the normal Mercedes spec & have twice the clamping factor . and use it more than once too.!! Kit only comes with one bolt
Cheers _PTEngineering
old school works in time of need. When it comes to reassembly use the holding figure & use the new ARP bolt .
Attached is a ARP bolt Kit for Mercedes M-113 K engine , that attaches the H/B to the Crankshaft. Material is 4340 Steel Heat treated to AMS-H-6875 spec. Rockwell Hardness ( Rc 39-43 )
The threads a rolled on after the heat treat Process, Major improvement .
Factory bolt is a Stretch to yield and has tool cut threads. Which are rough . & can add friction to the torque value , causes loss of clamp pressure , That along with the interrupted keyway edges , doesn’t help to get true torque pressure , And is a 1 time use bolt ! that retails for $48.00
The ARP with a sliding washer & their lube packet, and High strength. We can use the normal Mercedes spec & have twice the clamping factor . and use it more than once too.!! Kit only comes with one bolt
Cheers _PTEngineering
I need to purchase this bolt kit. Where can I get it?
#108
Great build on yoru car and clean trunk set up!!!
We had the ARP bolts developed for our cars last spring and Paid for the minimum run fees to get these made.
We also developed a crank pulley kit that add an additional keyway and reduces the crankshaft overhang load that all our pulleys have. I have this kit on my car as well. Very easy install, all hard #39 and nitride coated. We call it a crank extension kit and it is designed to work with the ARP bolt only. Again, we had ARP make these bolts and it took about 6 months, as they had to order thread tooling for our cars but the clamping power is greatly increased now with a high quality race bolt.
We had the ARP bolts developed for our cars last spring and Paid for the minimum run fees to get these made.
We also developed a crank pulley kit that add an additional keyway and reduces the crankshaft overhang load that all our pulleys have. I have this kit on my car as well. Very easy install, all hard #39 and nitride coated. We call it a crank extension kit and it is designed to work with the ARP bolt only. Again, we had ARP make these bolts and it took about 6 months, as they had to order thread tooling for our cars but the clamping power is greatly increased now with a high quality race bolt.
I need to purchase the bolt and crank extension kit, where can I get it?
#109
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#110
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yippee!! long tubes on the way! can't wait to get the exhaust done on this thing, i am probably leaving alot on the table with my set up and stock manifolds.
#112
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they are custom made. got super lucky and kinda stole them. s.s. and already ceramic coated. they just have a 3 bolt flange now, so cutting those off and going v-band. looking at the design, it should be right there with mbh.
#113
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starting to plan the rest of the exhaust. there is a couple companies that make x-pipe resonators. dual 3" in and dual 3" out with an x pipe inside of the resonator. i have used one before on a chevy 4x4 i used to have. very deep tone, but, don't want to quite the car down too much. it kills 2 birds with one stone, resonators and x pipe.
#115
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luckily not all of oregon is required to do inspections or deq. luckily the border for no deq is only 5 miles from me. luckily, i have friends that live in that county that let me register my cars to their address. havn't deq-ed in over 15 years. lol. if not, hardly anything i have built would pass, haha.
#117
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came up with a great design. instead of 2 3" pipes running length of car, i can merge pipes at front (the front of the x-pipe is all that matters anyways) then run into a single 4.5" pipe through center (will save weight and have more volume than 2-3" pipes) and then split off again for the rear. should make install a snap at just 5 separate sections. lowers cost also. if all goes good, it would be simple to reproduce for others. could even have center section put in press and make it oval.
3" pipe volume per foot= 84.72cu inx2= 169.44cu in
4.5" volume per foot= 190.68cu in
3" pipe volume per foot= 84.72cu inx2= 169.44cu in
4.5" volume per foot= 190.68cu in
#121
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#122
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edit- if it is all titanium then it makes sense. that stuff doesn't like to bend. i will not be going titanium route. haha. i don't like the aggressive bends right before the merge though. they could have easily made it a far more gradual bend to center unless trans just won't allow that.
Last edited by overZealous1; 12-09-2012 at 09:50 PM.
#124
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i almost got dizzy looking at his headers! i really wonder if it is worth creating equal length on the primaries at the sacrifice of so many bends to create it.